Thanks to both of you for the feedback!This remote acts like a regular bluetooth keyboard, so it is not locked to a certain CNC Software, it can do all the inputs you can do with your regular keyboard. Therefor it also does not require a plugin. Personally I use Mach3 for controlling the CNC. I only had to create some shortcuts to adjust the jog-rate according to the selected speed mode on the remote. While this makes it more universal and easier to set up, this also means that there is no feedback from the CNC Software. For example the remote just assumes that the speed mode was adjusted, but it doesn't get the feedback from the CNC Software to verify.The reason I did not provide the gerber file etc. yet is because of the mistakes I had in the PCB design/layout. When I made this project,…
Thanks to both of you for the feedback!This remote acts like a regular bluetooth keyboard, so it is not locked to a certain CNC Software, it can do all the inputs you can do with your regular keyboard. Therefor it also does not require a plugin. Personally I use Mach3 for controlling the CNC. I only had to create some shortcuts to adjust the jog-rate according to the selected speed mode on the remote. While this makes it more universal and easier to set up, this also means that there is no feedback from the CNC Software. For example the remote just assumes that the speed mode was adjusted, but it doesn't get the feedback from the CNC Software to verify.The reason I did not provide the gerber file etc. yet is because of the mistakes I had in the PCB design/layout. When I made this project, I did not consider creating a tutorial for it, since I was just learning it myself at the time I built it. However I was recently asked by someone if I could share some info about the remote and then I thought I could also upload it here.Currently I am making some minor modifications to the PCB design to fix the major problems. For this revision I will stick with the big THT components instead of using SMD components. For a V2 I would definitely go with SMD components.
I am currently fixing some of the errors I made in the PCB design and will upload both the gerber-file and the Arduino code in the upcoming days.
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If you mount the LEDs to the bottom surface, you would need even more LED strips for an even dristribution. This would also require a lot more soldering of individual strips. Also the Panels would actually need to be even thicker, since you would need a much bigger distance to achieve a decent diffusion.
The spacers are the "Connector+Holder" parts. They move the panels 4mm away from the wall.The glow is by the LEDs shining through the frame pieces
You are right, I am missing one of the wemos housings. However, the version that is uploaded, is the thinner version for the 5mm panels :DI am going to upload the thicker version now as well.
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Thanks! And sorry for the late response, but it seems like you already found a solution :D I just found out about the WS2815 a few weeks ago, and they are definitely a good choice.The version I uploaded should already be the updated version with the wider cable canal, which is meant for a pair of 1,5mm² cables - but I am going to check it again.I did not try with a lower LED density since I wanted it to be quite bright and have the light as even as possible. If you don't care that much about the brightness, you could also try 30 LEDs/m and maybe use acrylic with a lower light transmission that is better at diffusing the light.
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You only need one WeMos D1 mini to control all the LEDs. Compared to "regular" LED strips, which have plus and one channel per color, these adressable LEDs only have plus, minus and a data connection. This allows to control all LEDs individually. I think in theory there is no limit to how many LEDs you can control. In praxis the refresh rate will go down at some point. But you should easily be able to control 1000 individual LEDs.The limiting factor might be the current draw. These LEDs run on 5V and therefor draw a higher current than regular 12V LEDs. So with a huge amount of LEDs you need a really big power supply and need to feed in the electricity in multiple areas to split the current throughout the LED strips.
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I uploaded the Step-file of the Wemos Housing to another site, so that the download area here is not so confusing and mixed with different file formats.https://www.file-upload.net/download-14274634/Wemos_Housing.STEP.html
You can also use an Arduino Mega to control addressable LEDs. If you want to do the exact same thing as shown here, you would need to make some changes to the code - I don't know how easy the code can be adapted. Also the Arduino Mega + Wifi Module is much bigger than the ESP8266. You can buy an ESP8266 for just 2$ on Aliexpress.
In my case the acrylic diffusers are just a pressure fit, so by slightly twisting the frames, the diffusers pop out. Also I never planed for changing the arrangement of the panels - I tested some designs in advance and then just stick with it. If you glue in the diffusers: Maybe you could glue in the nuts on the inside. This way you can unscrew the connector-pieces without holding the nuts from the inside. You would also need to route all the cables to the center hole and change the wiring from the back of the panels.
As ElectroFrank already mentioned, selling 3d printed parts like this is not really worth it, since the costs per part are quite high.However if you are still interested, I uploaded the files to shapeways, a service where you can get the parts printed. They are $9-12 each + shipping. This will only include the printed plastic part and not the magnet. https://www.shapeways.com/product/JDBH9B88F/flat-bit-holder?key=3328122844f21a29923ed549423f189bhttps://www.shapeways.com/product/LWMFYG6QA/mini-bit-holder?key=3674005be4789a0cdaf7b280dc94ea4e
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