moekoe

Yeah okay I will have a look and compare these fets. would be nice if it works. :)

Hey BerenV! Thanks a lot for your comment. I have tested exactly that procedure with a SIL relay instead of a mosfet. You can see how it works in this video:https://www.instagram.com/p/BlaQTKpnZpU/?utm_sourc...The mosfet idea is even better! But at every time I am searching for a mosfet I didn't find the right one whichs works for my purpose... So maybe you can tell me which mosfet you are using :)Regards!

Hey MarcoB102! Thanks for your positiv feedback! The PCB manufactory I used is a german one called Aisler, which have very decent prices which are only addicted to the size of the pcb. (...much smaller is nearly impossible :D)Regards!

Hey GeorgeInst! Thanks a lot. I've heard about the LiFePo batteries but they doesn't excist in the right dimensions for my purpose :( The board files are accessible in this Instructable or on my GitHub Page:https://github.com/makermoekoe/Smarthome-dashbutto...I am currently not selling these with presoldered components.

Hey gdriver! You're correct, but GPIO0 could be floating as well, it doesn't need to be pulled HIGH for normal mode.On version three the GPIO15 is connect with ground plane, so it's always pulled down. The ESP8285-M3 from version one and two doesn't have this GPIO15 pin, it is pulled low inside the metal housing.For EN you are right, maybe I will add a 0603 resistor. I was just to lazy because it works :D

Hey Gusgonnet! Thanks a lot :) I hope that my small english is sufficient...

Wow, thanks a lot for the warming words! Nice to hear that I could help someone with this.17amp light is very much, but there should be at least a big relay which is able to do this.Ok, when you're interested in this I could write it down by time. :)

Hey Vidmo! The batteries are nearly the same, that's right. The only difference is, that the voltage of the LIR battery is 3,6v and of the CR only 3v, which doesn't suffice for the ESP.You're absolutely correct with the protection circuit. I have to - and I will add one in the next version. Nice to hear some constructive feedback :)

Hi Christophe!So your work is ready soon :)I used white acrylic glass with a transparency of 30%. The glass reduces the amount of light more than I thought first, so I think black acrylic with 5% or even less than 5% will be too dark, even if I expect it will look pretty good! Would be nice to see your Cube in a black housing, but maybe you find some black acrylic with more than 30% of transparency.. Moritz

Thank you very much!No, I am not able to flash the ESP straight from the Teensy, but actually you just need to programm the ESP only once. Just plug it in a breadboard, connect it to an FTDI Converter and program it with the Arduino IDE.

Nothing will change, just your controller board has to fit to your microcontroller

Wow! It is very crazy to see the wood work of another Brick! Hope your work is going well and your brick is ready soon :)

Very nice and simple solution of a drum kit! :)Will definitely build one. Also voted for you in the constest!

Hi John,sorry for the late response. I have updated the instructable with the Teensy and the ESP code, hope this helps. :)It would be great if you can send me your vector designs, especially because I have just finished to build my own laser cutter. I think there will be an instructable of it in the future. :)I hope it is clear to you that I want to see some pictures of your Brick! :D

1. Only the ESP works with 3.3V. The LEDs and the Teensy works with 5V. You don't need a voltage regulator when you use a Teensy 3.2, because its regulator on board can handle the max current for the ESP.2. I have added this buzzer only to verify the wifi connection. It beeps only the first time when the brick has power and there is a command from the iPhone. Other sound effects can be played by using the Teensy audio board.3. V-Reg is the voltage regulator mentioned in the first answer. Cause the ESP can handle only 2.6-3.6V you have to regulate the power from 5V to 3.3V.4. The switch resets the wifi module (ESP). It does not turn the wifi on or off, it was just to test the wifi communication and it is not necessary.5. You can use any controller of your choice, but the Teensy uses the ...

1. Only the ESP works with 3.3V. The LEDs and the Teensy works with 5V. You don't need a voltage regulator when you use a Teensy 3.2, because its regulator on board can handle the max current for the ESP.2. I have added this buzzer only to verify the wifi connection. It beeps only the first time when the brick has power and there is a command from the iPhone. Other sound effects can be played by using the Teensy audio board.3. V-Reg is the voltage regulator mentioned in the first answer. Cause the ESP can handle only 2.6-3.6V you have to regulate the power from 5V to 3.3V.4. The switch resets the wifi module (ESP). It does not turn the wifi on or off, it was just to test the wifi communication and it is not necessary.5. You can use any controller of your choice, but the Teensy uses the same Arduino IDE as an Arduino or an ESP. You only need to update the IDE to (I think) 1.6.5 or higher. Follow these instructions to get the boards-manager in your IDE: https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino6. Of course this is possible! The Teensy audio board has direct pinout for a mic, but even if you don't use the audio board you can attach a mic to your microcontroller: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-microphone-am...

You're welcome!Feel free to ask if there are any questions. I want to see some pictures if your brick is ready! :)

That looks very nice! I love the blurred look. :) Why do you use both the white and black acrylic?And of course the question: Why do you don't write an instructable about it?

Thank you! Good luck to you.All the rows of the strips are welded together and only the first pixel of each matrix are starting with a simple 3-pin JST connector. (In the picture you can see one male connector which comes from the end of the side matrix but it is unused. Only the females are going to the controller board.) The connectors are getting into the cube by small holes in the edges.I'm getting mostly all of my parts from www.exp-tech.de, like the Teensy 3.2: http://www.exp-tech.de/teensy-3-2. But these are shops in germany. I don't know where to buy electronics in other countries. For the LEDs you can refer to AliExpress. A good reseller is Ray Wu: https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/BLACK-PCB-5m-DC5V-WS2812B-led-pixel-srip-IP68-30pcs-WS2812B-M-with-30pixels-reverse-protec...

Thank you! Good luck to you.All the rows of the strips are welded together and only the first pixel of each matrix are starting with a simple 3-pin JST connector. (In the picture you can see one male connector which comes from the end of the side matrix but it is unused. Only the females are going to the controller board.) The connectors are getting into the cube by small holes in the edges.I'm getting mostly all of my parts from www.exp-tech.de, like the Teensy 3.2: http://www.exp-tech.de/teensy-3-2. But these are shops in germany. I don't know where to buy electronics in other countries. For the LEDs you can refer to AliExpress. A good reseller is Ray Wu: https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/BLACK-PCB-5m-DC5V-WS2812B-led-pixel-srip-IP68-30pcs-WS2812B-M-with-30pixels-reverse-protection/701799_926778326.html?spm=2114.8147860.0.0.mxgmWE. Hope this will help you a bit.

Thanks!I don't want to upload my whole code yet. But I just added another step with some pixel assignments. The total cost are about 350-400 Euro, but as I told in a comment before you can save a lot of money (maybe the half) by ordering the parts at AliExpress for example.Have a look at the new 5th step. I was using the simplest solution in coding, but therefore I have to convert the snakehead to the correct position at the specified cases. The body of the snake is just following the head. Polar coordinates would be very nice but implementing them on the brick at this time is too difficult for me.No, I'm just using the jack on the bottom of the cube. The music visualizer is based on the fast fourier transform. I have not had enough time for testing the audio connection more then just w...

Thanks!I don't want to upload my whole code yet. But I just added another step with some pixel assignments. The total cost are about 350-400 Euro, but as I told in a comment before you can save a lot of money (maybe the half) by ordering the parts at AliExpress for example.Have a look at the new 5th step. I was using the simplest solution in coding, but therefore I have to convert the snakehead to the correct position at the specified cases. The body of the snake is just following the head. Polar coordinates would be very nice but implementing them on the brick at this time is too difficult for me.No, I'm just using the jack on the bottom of the cube. The music visualizer is based on the fast fourier transform. I have not had enough time for testing the audio connection more then just with this simple visualizer.I have though about this while building my 10x10 coffeetable, but for the brick it will be to expensive. The 500 sensors would break my budget for this project.

No, thank you!Just added the 5th step. Hope this helps.

Just pick up the parts and build your own! ;)Thank you!

You're dreaming exactly from the QCoo: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/788278700/qc...It's a brillant idea, but I don't now where to get that much power to drive all the leds. The only solution is to power the leds with about 20% of brightness in order to run them by battery.

Yeah, I didn't want to go into detail that much, because my english isn't that good. I will add the connections in a couple of hours!