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A creative solution to your problem! I don't aspire to be a great artist. My aim is to be a good craftsman that create something pleasing by a method that doesn't take years of skill development. I have sold some of my glass work but most is gifted. Good luck!
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Many people have pointed out wick, solder vacs, and solder suckers. They are the ideal tools when you want to avoid damaging the board. Your methods were clearly aimed at parts salvage without finesse. One more rather shady method that I use a lot is to heat up the solder joint while holding the board in my hand and then wacking it on my bench so the solder splashes out. The obvious - stay out of the line of fire. It does a good job of clearing the holes if you are going to replace the part.
Very nicely done and I like your attention to baby-safe materials. I built two rocking cradles when my kids were young. I used Watco Danish rubbing oil since it becomes safe after it is done hardening. I regretted the size of my bottom stretcher since it gets all of the lateral force (accidental pushes from the end). I would suggest making it twice as tall and really locking into place. The last thought is that one of my cradles had the pivot point where yours is and the other had an upright that raised the pivot point about 18" above the edge of the cradle. The rocking rate of the higher pivot point was much slower and I liked the motion better. Think pendulums with a longer string. Congratulations on making an heirloom that grandchildren should enjoy.
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Excellent Instructable and well photographed. Some thoughts from my stopper turning. First, only buy stainless stoppers. The chromed ones will pit, especially with red wine. Second, if you get a little crumbling on the threads in the wood, you can soak them with some thin CA to harden them. If they completely crumble, you can buy a brass threaded insert and drill it out a bit bigger and thread in the insert.
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My makerspace is in Troy, NY. It is the Tech Valley Center of Gravity. The classes I do are for the makerspace although we did do glass engraving at our booth at the NYC World Maker Faire the year before last.
It is possible but would have the following issues:1 - You need a waterproof way to get one side of the cooler exchanging heat with the water and the other side open to the air2 - Peltier coolers use a lot of power. This would need a large power source or be plugged in.3 - The amount of cool = the amount of heat generated so for the amount you cool the water, you dump that much heat out the heat sink - near you.The total amount of cooling could be increased by:1 - Maximizing the amount of water (bigger thermos, filled higher)2 - Making the water colder - Maybe add salt while in the freezer?3 - Use dry ice in the water?4 - Use a block of ice - maybe freeze it with the coil in it and then add some water prior to use so there is water to pump around?I haven't tried any of these.
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Thanks. The swishing isn't necessary but when you are trying to get an even etch over an area, it helps bring fresh etchant to the surface.
Just be very careful not to smear any of the cream on unprotected glass, even for less than a minute. I have definitely had dots, blots and drools mess up otherwise fine glasses. I'm glad you had success - thanks for sharing the image.
I suspect that would be best on deep carving of the glass. For surface engraving, I would be concerned that the lines would be harder to see. I will give it a try - always interested in expanding what I know. Thanks.
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Too Hot? Keep cool at home, car, outside with the Back Cooler!