oldmaninSC

i keep trying to update the code. in the 4 button code, you need to reset after callabration. I changed the code to do that , but for some reason the INSTRUCTABLE dosen't change. sorry I'll try some more

Yes, I tore my hair out for over a month thinking it WAS ME. I tried to get the GOOD hc12 with the larger micro marked 8s003 but the GOOD hc12 has the smaller micro. The whole reason is that I wanted to SWAP the micros from good to bad and see if that fixed the problem. And the GT-38 that looks just like the HC12 works well but NOT with the HC12

I just want the arduino code......not gps download files and other stuffCAN YOU PLEASE insert a PDF of the arduino sketches !!!!!

really want to do this but I cant see where you get download inkscape from. Also the link to gethub ...unicorn is dead. I also watched the video on moving files but with my limited internet I need printed instructions. If I watch youtube over and over my data limit is over !this is a great post. I just need some more info.

have you seen my ' time squared' by oldmaninsc ? i resin cast the clear led display but instead of polishing i made a glass square that i pour the resin into. then 36 hr later put in the freezer and the glass frame mostly comes off. this leaves a nice clear affect. but my leds on glass are the best. could give you some hints, parts, etc if you like.

could you give more detail on Open WeatherOn api. I went to their website and how do youjust select tide data and not the TONS of info they have. I am old and slow...so i needstep by step on their website and the actual line of code you put in the 'config.h' file.

YOU ARE CORRECT... I get this ....{"error": "Sorry, we couldn't find that one!"} on every post I try on any 'instructables'.If you are trying to download the PCB or the SKETCH they both work.The sketch is easy to understand but the 2 side pcb has 23, zero ohm jumpers.They go where there are 2 pads. 7 around the outside edge. 9 on the inside edge.7 connect the led grounds to the 595 pin 13. This is the top side of the pcb. there are NOjumpers on the bottom.

I use the 74HC595D smd. I get them from china at 100 lot. With other orders of pro-mini and various stuffthey are about 12 cents. I use them everywhere. As for formal training....just play and read tutorials about ARDUINO. That is all I have done and enjoyed the last 5 years. Beats the heck out of what's on tv.

the tank is a plain jane china cheep tank sold for around $20. The motors and track are worth that. The frame is too narrow and the motors don't fit side by side so the are offset, front -back. I just put a thin (1/8) plywood on the frame as wide as the tracks. Look at my previous post 'easy wireless ide' this is the same tank with better photos. The sonic sensor used in this missed a lot of side obstacles. So the weight of the sonic array is 4.5 oz. and the wight of the entire tank is 4 pounds. But as I stated I use old nicads from old drill packs. You can always harvest most of the nicads from the pack. The pack won't charge if only one cell is bad ! This robot uses 2 sets of 8 and I just switch from one to the other when one gets week. So if you use litho backs you can knock off 1.5 l…

the tank is a plain jane china cheep tank sold for around $20. The motors and track are worth that. The frame is too narrow and the motors don't fit side by side so the are offset, front -back. I just put a thin (1/8) plywood on the frame as wide as the tracks. Look at my previous post 'easy wireless ide' this is the same tank with better photos. The sonic sensor used in this missed a lot of side obstacles. So the weight of the sonic array is 4.5 oz. and the wight of the entire tank is 4 pounds. But as I stated I use old nicads from old drill packs. You can always harvest most of the nicads from the pack. The pack won't charge if only one cell is bad ! This robot uses 2 sets of 8 and I just switch from one to the other when one gets week. So if you use litho backs you can knock off 1.5 lb.

is this epoxy hard like paper weights you see in stores. I need a rock hard , scratch resistant, solid acrylic / epoxy for my 'time squared' castings.

looks like you could use any material to make the balls. I am going to make some right now !

Please list the part numbers or names of the several items in STEP5 as well as where you purchased them from.

so many MIDI libraries please post the one you used

I am flattered that anyone would like to buy something I make. It is hard to say yes and no at the same time. It takes aboutweek to make one 'time square'. So whatcould you charge for a weeks worth of work?On the other hand the display is 4 timeswhat a normal clock display has. If a typical cheep clock sells for around $22.00.Then this would sell for $88.But I am retired and have no pressure on me.Selling my hobby is like getting paid to take day-hikes into the woods. The answer is no... with regrets and thanks.But just like the 8x8x8 cubes, someone willcopy soon and sell.

no flux ...just add solder from the roll.the old solder and junk float to the top.scrape off and solder is shiny like new