rebeltaz

What engraver are you using? Those look great!

The build is impressive, but... you said that a "good 3d printer" costs over a thousand dollars. That my have been true a decade ago, but you can get really good filament printers today from anywhere between $200-500. Plus, you can now get resin (SLA/DLP) printers in the same price range. This isn't to discourage building your own toys - I'm often guilty of spending more time and money to build something than if I'd just bought the thing - just a minor correction.

I enjoyed the way you wrote the article. Like you're actually talking to the audience and with a bit of humor. I try to do the same when I write. And the end result is too cute :)

Holy.... words I can't say on TV! As a fellow rocketeer for over 40+ years, can I just say that those are absolutely bee you tea full!

Wouldn't be willing to share the preformatted stls, would you? Nice job!

Thank you so much!

You don't have a single zip archive file of all the necessary files, do you? I would love to print this - I am a collector of clocks and this one is gorgoeus! - but downloading each file one by one is going to be a pain!

Interesting. I am looking for a new vehicle now, so I may just do that on that one! Thanks for the idea :)

:) Thanks... it looks really good, though.

Umm... maybe I missed this, but I did not see anywhere in here where you mention that the equiptment should NOT be powered back up with the original capacitor missing. That capacitor is there for a reason.

Hi there. I discovered this trick a while back while trying to recreate a bracelet my late father had made for me - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3879043. I liked your write-up. Very informative and a beuatiful pattern.

Been using those same paints (now the multi-surface versions) for a while for all of my 3d model prints. One tip... if you will use filler primer that you can find in the automotive section, it will help hide the layer lines and you won't have as much sanding to do. Very nice!

Why does nearly everyone on Instrucables assume that we are all well versed in Arduino?

Why does nearly everyone on Instrucables assume that we are all well versed in Arduino?

Hey... I've had ax sheaths where the blade does cut the stitching, but do the rivets not dull the blade? I would think both ways have their drawbacks. I think between dulling the blade or cutting the stitching, I'd just as soon restitch the sheath than risk dulling the blade unnecessarily.

This is a really cool idea. When you finish the minivac, will you be sharing your model/project so that us mere mortals can recreate one as well?

I used PLA, but PETG would probably be a better choice.

Hi... I just came across your comment on this RCX post. I don't suppose you happen to have a copy of the stand-alone RoboLab that you could share, do you? All I can find now is the LabView plugin... Thanks.

When I first saw the [Change Color] option on the web page screenshot, I thought that the machine would allow you to dispense a gumball of a specific color based on the user's preference. lol... now THAT would be awesome!

A brim should only be needed for parts with very little contact to the build plate.One thing that people often over look is bed leveling (or technically tramming). You want to adjust the bed so that a sheet of paper will just slide between the nozzle and the bed (at ranodm points around the build plate) with the z-axis set to 0. If the nozzle is too far away fromm the build plate - even if it's only 0.1 or 0.2mm - then the filament will not stick well to the bed and it will lift. I've heard people having great success with PEI. Personally, I print on a sheet of glass with a thin film of a 50/50 mixture of water/Elmer's glue. Once the bed is leveled, I've never had a single issue with parts not adhering to the bed. Of course, like you suggested, if there contact surface is small (less than…

A brim should only be needed for parts with very little contact to the build plate.One thing that people often over look is bed leveling (or technically tramming). You want to adjust the bed so that a sheet of paper will just slide between the nozzle and the bed (at ranodm points around the build plate) with the z-axis set to 0. If the nozzle is too far away fromm the build plate - even if it's only 0.1 or 0.2mm - then the filament will not stick well to the bed and it will lift. I've heard people having great success with PEI. Personally, I print on a sheet of glass with a thin film of a 50/50 mixture of water/Elmer's glue. Once the bed is leveled, I've never had a single issue with parts not adhering to the bed. Of course, like you suggested, if there contact surface is small (less than 5mm or so) I will use a brim, usually only 7-12mm, but ocassionally I have gone up to 21mm for really small parts or really tall thin parts.

Why would you need the capacitor or rectifiers? The inverter is DESIGNED to run power tools off of 12v DC batteries. It you are REALLY worried about needing the cap, it should be - in the correct voltage/capacity - on the INPUT side of the inverter, not the output.

I **just** got through cutting a few bolts to length. What I do is run two nuts up the threads to where I need to make the cut. I jam the top nut down on the bottom cut to lock it in place. I tighten that - the nuts - in a vase and make my cut right up against the bottom nut on the waste side. This way, you can run the nuts back off to help rethread any threads that get damaged.

That is pretty cool. As no fan of google/farcebook/twits/youtube censorship, I'm curious... what does [flagged 'repetitive' by their system] mean?

I thought I was the only one who used wood filler on plastic :)

My girlfriend and I do the same thing - kids at heart, dontcha know :) - but we've always used "jigsaw puzzle glue" or packing tape. I never thought to use mod-podge! Thank you :)

Works great, too :) Thank you.

Thank you :) Robotics is my Achilles Heel! lol... I just got this printer, but I am having fun designing new parts to print. I hate to see perfectly good things get thrown out instead of being repaired in today's disposable "society"....

May I make a couple of suggestions? If you happen to have RTV silicone (the red or black kind), if you will smear a THIN layer of that on the mating surface instead of the oil, the imprint will transfer more easily and will have a much higher visibility. Secondly, and more importantly, when cutting the bolt holes and any other holes, it's far better to do that before cutting the perimeter of the gasket. If you cut the gasket first and then the holes, it's likely that the gasket, in it's much thinner state, will deform or tear. Also, if you happen to have access to a set of punches (relatively inexpensive), you can get a much better hole. Had to do this many times in my shop, albeit usually with gasket material available from any auto parts store.

lol... Is it art imitating life or life imitating art? I'll never tell!

Why, thank you!

| "Typically, you want to ALWAYS complete your design before buying your parts."lol... that is exactly opposite of how I usually operate. I tend to design my projects around whatever I happen to have laying around!I was just going to suggest the aluminum angle bolted across, and to, the top of the "shelf," as it were, to prevent sagging, but I just saw that you already addressed that. Great minds think alike :) I like it. I never thought about this simple method when I bought my mount. It's not quite as sturdy as I like, though, so I may redo it using your idea - sans the laser cutter, though, due to not having one. You've got my vote!

Wouldn't it have been easier, and quicker, to just trace the missing piece outline on to stiff cardboard, cut the shape out with an Xacto knife and then glue the picture to the new piece? Don't get me wrong... you did a good job and it looks great, but still....

As much as I (think) I like the original shade, your dinosaur shade is totally cool!

This looked SO good. You had me up until "vegetarian" :(

There seem to be a few details missing here. What is the "chip"? What is the circuit and where is the schematic? What exactly is the purpose of the display? What does it display? What is the purpose of the "USB charging"? Why does a "smoke absorber" need any type of controller? If a controller is needed for your design, what purpose does it serve? What happens to the smoke that this device "absorbs"?

Friendsgiving?

I built one of these several years ago and mine never did do anything. I don't know if I did something wrong or what, but I see yours seems to at least heat up. Does it do anything for heating your space?

B.e.a.u.t.i.f.u.l!

Absolutely beautiful!

I have a C.H.I.P. (a $9 "computer" board with built in wifi) laying around. It runs linux, so I should be able to use that for this. Can you tell me where in the code the GPIO pins are selected so I can use another method of selecting add or decrement? Thanks...

Every time I look at Instrucables, I see more and more reason to get a 3d printer! What do you use for the rods in the notes cylinder? Very nice model :)

I do not mean to be... negative, I guess... and I hope this doesn't come off as such.I notice in your bio that you have a B.sc in Electrical Engineering so I would assume that you already know this, but I wanted to elaborate for those who might not. A couple of times, you mentioned "building a relay." That is misleading for those with little to no basic electronic knowledge. What you are describing here is not how to build a relay but rather how to build a relay control module. To actually build a relay (which I did as a kid beck before the world of electronics became plug-and-play as opposed to truly building your own circuits) would require winding a coil on an iron core and fashioning a set of contacts with a spring return. One more small thing. In your diagram, you need to a…

I do not mean to be... negative, I guess... and I hope this doesn't come off as such.I notice in your bio that you have a B.sc in Electrical Engineering so I would assume that you already know this, but I wanted to elaborate for those who might not. A couple of times, you mentioned "building a relay." That is misleading for those with little to no basic electronic knowledge. What you are describing here is not how to build a relay but rather how to build a relay control module. To actually build a relay (which I did as a kid beck before the world of electronics became plug-and-play as opposed to truly building your own circuits) would require winding a coil on an iron core and fashioning a set of contacts with a spring return. One more small thing. In your diagram, you need to add a dot to the connection where the anode of the diode, the collector of the transistor and the coil tie together. Without that, it could mean that the diode and the transistor are connected without the coil being also tied to that same point. Finally, the transistor needs the arrow added to the emitter to show which is emitter and which is collector as well as whether the transistor is an NPN or a PNP.Like I said, I'm sure you already know all of this, but sometimes it's easy to overlook something assuming that everyone must know it. Instructable readers are not all electronics technicians/engineers so even seemingly basic information needs to be added to help aid those looking to learn the craft :)

There is also a fourth cause... a clogged or collapsed brake line. If the line partially collapses or gets partially clogged, then when you press the brake pedal, fluid will be forced into the cylinder, expanding the shoes. When you release the pedal, however, the pressure exerted in reverse by the cylinder is unable to push fluid back into the feed lines. This in essence causes the brake cylinder to remain in the activated state. Usually, I have been able to disconnect the line from both ends and blow through it with compressed air to clear the line, but on a few occasions I have had to replace the entire line instead.

lol... Thank you!

Well, thank you!

Very nice. I keep trying to find reasons to get myself a 3d printer :)I need to point out, however, that candle wax should always be melted in a double boiler - https://candletech.com/candle-making/wax-melting-... - to prevent the wax from catching fire.

So put the shellac on before the polyurethane? Hmm... that's one product I've never used before. I will give that a try on my next project! Thanks :)

I have tried soaking the brush on the thinner for several minutes first, but I don't think I have ever tried thinning the polyurethane. I'll try that next time. Thanks.

Question, if I may... do you have any trouble with small bubbles when you use polyurethane? On every single one of my projects when I have used poly, there are always tiny bubbles left that make for a slightly rough surface as opposed to a perfectly smooth surface. I have used foam brushed as well as natural and synthetic bristle brushes. I always stir gently, never shaking. I just cannot figure out what is going on. Any ideas?

:) Thank you!

Just this week I was actually looking for a simple to use inventory program for my shop! This is PERFECT! Thank you so much for publishing this! Too many exclamation points? lo :-)

There is nothing any more dangerous about this than there is in hanging a shotgun shell bandolier on your gun rack. Sure, all live ammunition is potentially dangerous in the wrong hands, but those people shouldn't have live ammunition in the first place. This thing is awesome. I would go with the spent shells myself, though. Not because of any safety concerns but because the shells would be lighter and more easily attached. On the other hand, live ammo makes this a survival kit, something every Boy Scout should be able to appreciate!

That looks really good! But... I'd be worried about burning down the stable! ;)

Crocheting is one skill I've never tried to learn, but I had to comment on this... I absolutely LOVE the Animaniacs and of the three Warners, Wakko is my guy! This is so cute. Good luck on the contest... you deserve it.

Since you asked... the better leader won.

So I am (still) building this and I have a question... I was having trouble with the LEDs, some row-column combinations were lighting multiple LEDs and a couple didn't light at all. Turns out I (somehow) missed soldering the anodes between layers for an entire column! Once I took care of that, that fixed the three LEDs lighting up at a time, but I still had a couple of other LEDs ghosting when one or the other was turned on. I found one open LED and one shorted LED - luckily on the outside column! I guess that happened when I was soldering the layers together... I swear I tested each layer as I built it. After all of that, I powered it up and the only thing that happens is that the "status" LEDs flicker back and forth. The entire cube is off. If I hit either the "deubg"…

So I am (still) building this and I have a question... I was having trouble with the LEDs, some row-column combinations were lighting multiple LEDs and a couple didn't light at all. Turns out I (somehow) missed soldering the anodes between layers for an entire column! Once I took care of that, that fixed the three LEDs lighting up at a time, but I still had a couple of other LEDs ghosting when one or the other was turned on. I found one open LED and one shorted LED - luckily on the outside column! I guess that happened when I was soldering the layers together... I swear I tested each layer as I built it. After all of that, I powered it up and the only thing that happens is that the "status" LEDs flicker back and forth. The entire cube is off. If I hit either the "deubg" switch or the "status" switch, the "status" LEDs stop flickering and only one remains lit. The cube then begins going through it's test program. The problem is that four rows-columns are constant lit and a couple of LEDs only come on during certain cycles, but not others. Since the entire cube is off before the processor beings running, that would tend to tell me that nothing is shorted. Also, when I press either the "status" or "debug" switches after the program is running, nothing happens. When I first programmed the AVR, I used avrdude running under Ubuntu Linux and an AVRasp programmer. Every time I try to program the IC, it tells me that it expects a certain signature, but that the one returned by the IC is different and that I need to check my IC since it doesn't appear (to the programmer) to be an ATmega32. The IC I am using is ATMEGA32 16PU 1403. This is the same chip shown on the photos here, with the exception of the last line, which I didn't think should matter. I am able to program the IC anyway using the -F (force program) switch in avrdude, but I am wondering if this might be my problem rather than a hardware issue. Any thoughts, ideas, or help? I've been working on this freaking thing on and off for over a year now, so I am ready to see some final results! Thanks...