robomaniac

What is your name? Trying to figure out who you are. I did some competition back in the days and some of the OG where there. One of the was Eastern Canadian games 2002. Scott Martin, Dave Hrynkiw, Grant McKee, Kyle and Dave Simmons, Mike Trzecieski, Ori Barbut, Andrew Miller, etc.I meet Ian Bernstein when he was at Sphero. I was also super fortunate to meet Mark Tilden at his place in Hong Kong back in 2010. I was doing internship at Spin Master with Grant and Andrew. That is how I got introduce. My brain exploded when I saw all his robots!!

OMG! This is back to memory lane!! Wilf Rigter, he was the guru of electronics!

wow BEAM it's been a while! 1998 for me! My robots still works from back then!miller solar engine with the 1381. Glad to see there is a replacement for the 1381. Andrew Miller is still making cool stuff. Starting his Indiegogo real soon for compact CNC.

that is sweet! did you know that my new hobby is drone racing! I started in 2015, now I am more into cinematic FPV drone. Building custom drone for specific shots. I really love!

so I got me thinking, if you use the same pins for Vcc, D-, D+, GND of the left USB A and USBA3 together, same IO, you could save some pinsusbAleft[4] = {{ 66, 0, "1 Vcc"},{ 67, 0, "2 D-"},{ 68, 0, "3 D+"},{ 69, 0, "4 GND"}then the usbA could beusbA3left[9] = {{ 66, 0,"1 USB2 Vcc"},{ 67, 0,"2 USB2 D-"},{ 68, 0,"3 USB2 D+"},{ 69, 0,"4 USB2 GND"},{ 22, 0,"5 Std ASSRX-"},{ 23, 0,"6 Std ASSRX+"},{ 24, 0,"7 GND DRAIN"},{ 25, 0,"8 Std ASSTX-"},{ 26, 0,"9 Std ASSTX+"}};same for right side with micro and mini which is more obvious since they use same 4 pins name.I am trying to figure if this would work and what are the pit fall.if the signal pas…

so I got me thinking, if you use the same pins for Vcc, D-, D+, GND of the left USB A and USBA3 together, same IO, you could save some pinsusbAleft[4] = {{ 66, 0, "1 Vcc"},{ 67, 0, "2 D-"},{ 68, 0, "3 D+"},{ 69, 0, "4 GND"}then the usbA could beusbA3left[9] = {{ 66, 0,"1 USB2 Vcc"},{ 67, 0,"2 USB2 D-"},{ 68, 0,"3 USB2 D+"},{ 69, 0,"4 USB2 GND"},{ 22, 0,"5 Std ASSRX-"},{ 23, 0,"6 Std ASSRX+"},{ 24, 0,"7 GND DRAIN"},{ 25, 0,"8 Std ASSTX-"},{ 26, 0,"9 Std ASSTX+"}};same for right side with micro and mini which is more obvious since they use same 4 pins name.I am trying to figure if this would work and what are the pit fall.if the signal pass in micro and not mini you know which connector is plug. If the wires are cut then both micro and micro won't see any signal and you will be stuck in scan waiting to plug, well same as your normal setup.

any color you want.

nice work! Great execution. I was not aware of the QX5252F chip. Can I know why you added mounting holes to the PCB but did not have them on the reflector? You use hotglue. Plus you are printing in the proper orientation to add those 2 mounting holes, looks like perfect match. I bought lots of different plastics screws off aliexpress for my 3D printing projects so I add them all the time now.

I did the same thing with google + IFTTT + particle photon. IFTTT just change their subscription model so my setup don't work anymore. really sucks. Well it's limited to only 3 command. My device is also behind the TV. I will look into iobroker. Thanks

Omg! This is awesome! I was wondering the other day if I had to redesign the beetle bot 20year later how would it look like. I have even doing 3D print for 8year now and was thinking how the beetle bot would look like and decided to search the internet. Nice work. I love it!

Thank you very much!!

no not really. You can connect the same ways as the schematic since the arduino in my project is using same pinout then the uno. The arduino in the chair is a uno. The arduino that control servo motor is a uno. Does it answer your questions?

Why on the left side of the PCB you have B+, GND, B+, GND when having B+,B+,GND, GND would provide a simpler PCB layout without isolating the GND by having a Y shape trace of B+. Same for right side.Also please turn U2 90deg so the shunt resistor signal are same length.

yes the video won't play or download. Upload it on youtube as "unlisted" and share the link here. Only the people with the link can see it.

Here is a kit that has no soldering!https://solarbotics.com/product/k_jb/You just need a screw driver (that comes with the kit)I design that kit while doing an internship at Solarbotics.

thanks for sharing!!

have you tried to understand the problem?it spin in circleis it one motor spinning forward?is it one motor spining backward?is it one motor forward and other motor in reverse?does in spin on in place or in big circle?are both motor actually working before soldering?did you press the switch to see if motor respond to switch press?post a picturegood luck!

Merci! Ça me fait plaisir. lol :)

Nice work! I was wondering the same thing. I wish my power supply of my Wanhao i3 Plus had a simple I/O to turn it off like all computer ATX power supply.

ceramic capacitorhttp://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/tdk-corporation/FK28X7R1C224K/445-2849-ND/1008875

if you follow this instructable and remove all electronics, you simply apply 5V directly to the motor and it will spin continuously.

hey!I tried your code did not work. I made an issue on github.Regarding the code not compiling (trying to call length()) is what I posted in the forum. I will keep checking github.

dude so sweet!!! I had this running within minutes!! Darn easy!Using IFTTT, I send emails, notification and send data to google spreadsheet!I am in the process to add this to machine in my workshop so I can send usage data to spreadsheet and I will do some graphs and understand when I need to do maintenance!thanks a lot!!

You could look into pushsafer.https://www.pushsafer.com/It's a service that let you customize notification, you can tell how many motor virbration you want, what sound to play, what icon, etc. It has lot of potential. It's free for a X amount of push per month.it's basically PHP request, I tried and tried to make it work for the ESP8266 but no luck. It had to do with HTTPS no possible on arduino but Kevin (the guy behind pushsafer) change his side to do both HTTP and HTTPS.my thread is herehttp://www.appzer.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2729&sid=69465c80f2d333f8882a162d7b77483cI you make it work, I will check your instructable :P

hi, you can search youtube for tips on soldering. Don't apply to much heat (or leave your soldering tip too long on component). Don't "paint" or rub solder/soldering iron on parts. You're not Picasso. (I see too many kids do that!) If you're not comfortable doing something, try it on some scrap parts laying around. Be patient and have fun! and if you don't understand something, just ask for explanation or come here to ask me :P

nice work, that thing must go super fast with those big wheels!The third connection is a point in the circuit that let the motor current go in either the left batterie or the right batterie depending of the switch status. This makes the motor spin clock wise or counter clock wise depending of the path it takes.

hey man! I am happy you got this working!thanks for the info about that robot kit.I was not aware.I got use to people using/copying my work without credit. I have seen a lot of them!take care and keep making robots!!