solara70

The pot acts as a voltage divider, driving the transistor to power the motor. Sounds like your main pot is ok. There are usually some internal offset pots which you can tweak to set min/max speeds. Give that a try, noting original position.

Glad to hear you tweaked it. Please make a donation of your choice to Wikipedia, thanks.

Yes the trimmer pots are adjusted using a fine flat jewellers screwdriver. Don't press to hard as they can buckle bend. Don't see point of changing it, just try and adjust, that's what it's there for.

As above, it's 10kohm on mine.You can remove and measure the resistance between the left and rightmost pins (assuming no cracks, just dodgy wiper). Sometimes marked on the back of the pot.I don't think it matters too much as it's just acting as a voltage divider.40a relay is fine too.

Yes whatever bricks I had spare. However, they can crack if used slot, but easily swapped out. The stronger the better.Slab was just a spare paving slab, nothing special. Just trying to recycle what I had available.

It will depend upon the size of brick you use. These differ between countries. For the length of the stove across multiply the brick length by 2. Same for slab or larger.For the stove width back, multiply by 1.5.

Of course! :-)Corrected thanks!

yes you could, but i wouldnt take it tooo high as the structure becomes less stablle.

bottom 2 layers are 4 bricks each.=8 bricks. each layer pon top is 5 bricks. you could make it higher, alll depends on how much heat you want to cook with and the wood. more layers means less direct heat.

Instructables i splaying up when i paste these lines.The first 2 lines should be:#include <Arduino.h>#include <ESP8266WiFi.h>

A few years on, and still working reliably. I had one led which needed resoldering, due to poor manufacturing.Power supply is a bit noisy on radio interference though.

I made it with a 99pence 6v solar cell. I like the idea of placing it on the hinge stand.

No support required, bricks will hold together by supporting each other Try it and you will see.

The aim of this project is not to convert a multimeter to a backlit display, but to convert either models (DT830/LN) to be USB rechargeable (which they are not, when bought of the shelf).

Thanks, added to instable

I just take the battery out until i next need to use it. Your right they do drain battery even when apparently off.

thats my green wire.

if you see a fat link wire as pictured u need do nothing. if you dont see it there, look for 2 solder pads where the link wire is supposed to run, and solder a solid core wire between the 2 pads.

On some of these panels the current sink link is missing. on mine it was missing so i soldered a thick wire across the pads. without this you will not get a current reading. if the link is already there, great!

Well done on what must be a very rewarding project. You have brought the community together and turned around a rubbish tipping site into a desirable garden plot for all to enjoy!