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  • srhnz commented on CrtSuznik's instructable Attiny Programmer (using Arduino UNO)1 year ago
    Attiny Programmer (using Arduino UNO)

    If you can, use ZIF sockets (search "universal ZIF socket"). I use them on a home baked board that stacks onto a UNO, and also have one plugged into my breadboard. Saves the pins on the chips from too much stress through pushing/pulling them out of the DIP socket. Lost a couple of chips through having the legs finally give up after several visits back and forth to the programmer. They come in various sizes, so can easily make a board that will take a range of chip sizes.On the breadboard they are great for any DIP/DIPP/DIL chip. Used them with OpAmps, shift registers, motor drivers..the works.

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  • srhnz commented on SteveRoy's instructable Building a Prusa i3 3D Printer - revisited2 years ago
    Building a Prusa i3 3D Printer - revisited

    "Don't use acrylic"(??)...I built a Mendel 90 (self sourced parts..not a kit), used 10mm acrylic for the base, 6mm everywhere else, including the gantry. Was rigid enough to stand on (when I was a tubby 95kg) and no deformation. I also flame polished the edges after cutting and it comes out looking quite tidy.Clone 1.75mm j-heads.. The only time I had issues with them was due to variations in the PLA I was putting through it. Black gave me the worst problems since most cheap black PLA is a mashup of leftover other colours with a lot of black colouring, and ended up with endless clogging.I have never used tape or any other coating on the glass. Scrape with a blade, wipe with isopropyl, print. The only thing I do is leave the heatbed on for the duration of the print..becau...

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    "Don't use acrylic"(??)...I built a Mendel 90 (self sourced parts..not a kit), used 10mm acrylic for the base, 6mm everywhere else, including the gantry. Was rigid enough to stand on (when I was a tubby 95kg) and no deformation. I also flame polished the edges after cutting and it comes out looking quite tidy.Clone 1.75mm j-heads.. The only time I had issues with them was due to variations in the PLA I was putting through it. Black gave me the worst problems since most cheap black PLA is a mashup of leftover other colours with a lot of black colouring, and ended up with endless clogging.I have never used tape or any other coating on the glass. Scrape with a blade, wipe with isopropyl, print. The only thing I do is leave the heatbed on for the duration of the print..because as soon as is cools enough, the part just pops off, most times all by itself as the glass contracts. The bonus of this is that I very rarely have to recalibrate or level the bed, and I only have to if I service the hotend. Last print I did was about 6 months after the one before. Loaded the g-code, pressed print..flawless victory!I've seen (or rather, read in the reprap forums) where quite a few fall over where the builder has used a minimum spec'd PSU, then cranked up the stepper pots to try and get the axiis moving properly. 550W are easy enough to get nowadays and will be ample to cover all the fan, heatbed (running upwards of 11A!), hotend and stepper requirements without running the risk of power sags, which will cause the RAMPS board to hit a reset condition.Absolutely agree about changing out the MOSFET for the heatbed. Mine produced a nice puff of smoke the first time..The IRLB8743PBF MOSFET is the one to go for, runs nice and cool, and cheap as chips (pardon the pun)Would highly recommend the fan for the ramps board, mainly for the steppers. Read this great discussion article on the differences in the A4988 and the DRV8825 drivers - http://reprap.org/wiki/A4988_vs_DRV8825_Chinese_St... You could then run the 2.5A Nema 17 steppers...if you wanted to (811 instead of 804 in the part number)Congrats on the build..and subsequent rebuild/upgrade. These exercises in rethinking concepts, identifying and solutioneering small issues can only serve to make the next version the best yet.Cheers

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  • srhnz commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer2 years ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    I built a Mendel90 printer (self sourced parts, not a kit) and I got 10mm for the main base plate, 6mm for the hotbed plate, gantry and back plates. It is very rigid. It is more expensive than MDF but if you find a sign maker or otherwise business that uses acrylic sheet, they will normally have offcuts that will be big enough for this.

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  • srhnz commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer2 years ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Just be wary with MDF as it is sensitive to moisture in the air and tends to shrink or grow depending on humidity levels. Highly recommend that it is painted or sealed on every face to limit the absorption...unless you enjoy re-calibrating after each run. I used acrylic sheet which is rock solid, can be drilled and tapped for screws and not overly sensitive to heat. I only ever have to recalibrate if I have to remove the hotend for maintenance...which is rare.

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  • srhnz commented on Vulcaman's instructable Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer2 years ago
    Cherry- 60€ 3D-Printer

    Endstops provide a home point. Without them, the controller doesn't know where 0,0,0 is on any of its axiis,. You can get away with no limiting end stops but the RAMPS software has to be carefully set to use a max distance from the home point as the outer limits.

    check pot settings on the stepper drivers. If set too low, they will not provide enough current to power them. Check out the reprap forums for how-to on setting up the drivers without nuking them...which is easy to do if you are not careful.

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