tdonoclift

Thanks for the comments, and the vote 😁 I've found that it's actually very easy to translate to the colour space. Once you set up the initial puzzle, any translation between numbers and colours is no longer needed and you can play purely with colours. You also get unexpected benefits when using colours, for example, I found I can relax my eyes and focus on a single colour to see all instances of that colour, highlighting any mistakes quickly.

Thanks for the comments, and the vote 😁 I've found that it's actually very easy to translate to the colour space. Once you set up the initial puzzle, any translation between numbers and colours is no longer needed and you can play purely with colours. You also get unexpected benefits when using colours, for example, I found I can relax my eyes and focus on a single colour to see all instances of that colour, highlighting any mistakes quickly.

Thanks for the comments, and the vote 😁 I've found that it's actually very easy to translate to the colour space. Once you set up the initial puzzle, any translation between numbers and colours is no longer needed and you can play purely with colours. You also get unexpected benefits when using colours, for example, I found I can relax my eyes and focus on a single colour to see all instances of that colour, highlighting any mistakes quickly.

Thanks for the comments, and the vote! I've found that it's actually very easy to translate to the colour space. Once you set up the initial puzzle, any translation between numbers and colours is no longer needed and you can play purely with colours. You also get unexpected benefits when using colours, for example, I found I can relax my eyes and focus on a single colour to see all instances of that colour, highlighting any mistakes quickly.

What a good idea, a peg board would work well too :D

I don't see why not :) I think someone here even made a comment about 3D printing a version :)

That's such a nice thing to do for your sons :) The game still works without engravings but if you wanted to put some design on it but don't have access to a laser, you could try pyrography. There are a bunch of different nibs available that would make simple designs and patterns easily and they don't cost too much either.

You spotted the postcard in the background eh :)

I can supply it if you want but it may be fairly useless to you as it's generated with the tool dimensions and type, work-piece dimensions and material, and work area restrictions specific to my machine. It would be better to generate your own CNC code (gcode) from the SVG files provided above. You can generate gcode in a number of ways but you can do it for free if you go to Makercam.com and upload the SVG file there. Once uploaded you can select the paths and choose the parameters for the cut (tool dimensions, cut depth, speeds and feeds etc), then simply export the gcode. :) I hope this helps, but if you still want the original CNC code files, just let me know.

Checking with an NTP would be similar to checking a built in RTC, only you wouldn't need the physical space inside the base to house it. Frequent time checks coupled with stepper advancements to correspond with those checks would certainly deliver the correct number of steps at the right rate. However, there is the additional problem of missed steps; if the steppers were to stall for example and only move, say 97 steps instead of the requested 112, the displayed time would slowly drift despite the continuous checking. These are not the highest quality stepper motors after all. A physical mechanism for "homing" would allow the program to make adjustments to make up the lost steps and essentially auto-correct every 12 hours. Also, to set the time, it's easier to just lift the ri...

Checking with an NTP would be similar to checking a built in RTC, only you wouldn't need the physical space inside the base to house it. Frequent time checks coupled with stepper advancements to correspond with those checks would certainly deliver the correct number of steps at the right rate. However, there is the additional problem of missed steps; if the steppers were to stall for example and only move, say 97 steps instead of the requested 112, the displayed time would slowly drift despite the continuous checking. These are not the highest quality stepper motors after all. A physical mechanism for "homing" would allow the program to make adjustments to make up the lost steps and essentially auto-correct every 12 hours. Also, to set the time, it's easier to just lift the rings off and place them at the correct time ;)

In the context of that paragraph, the term "nano micro-controller" refers to the Cylewet CH340G board; which, for the purposes of this project, functions in the same way as a genuine Arduino nano. So yes, I meant to say exactly that. :)

Thanks :) there's no need to be a skilled programmer to get this working. There's plenty of resources online to help you with getting a program running on an Arduino and the code supplied here should work fine as long as you use the same steppers as I have. With regards to the CNC files, I didn't include g-code files as these can vary depending on the endmills used, wood type, and a few other factors. CNC operators will have their own way of generating g-code from vector formats such as the SVG files provided here. I personally use makercam.com, its basic but also free and completely browser based. If you can get the files to a CNC shop, then I'd say this project is well within your league :)

Cool looking coasters! It's amazing how good the more budget materials can look when used creatively :) nice one!

Yes, the magnetic field gradient is a concern, as well as the possibility of interference with the steppers when the magnet passes by. An optical reflectance sensor could work but they work best at a distance of >5mm and <40mm. I like your idea of a thumb tack and a pair of probe wires, that concept might be a winner :D Thanks

Thanks for the comment :) I did indeed consider making it move in surges but I was working to a deadline :( I will have time again in a few weeks to pick it up and try and add a few other modes. I also originally planned to have 5 minute increments on the minutes gear but I though it looked too busy, personal preference I guess :)

What a cool idea :D Nice one!

Thanks :D much appriciated

Cool, I never even thought of an ESP8266 and the price isn't that much more than the Nano+RTC combo. I've just bought some reed switches and tiny magnets to experiment with this idea. My fear is that the reed switches could be triggered in a range of positions so I'll have to find the best TA rating to get the best spacial resolution. I'll post an update after my experiments :D and good luck with your build.

Thanks :D Just out of curiosity, how much would you be willing to pay for something like this?

Thank you :) I've had this idea in my mind for many months and I'm glad I finally got around to making it.

Yes I hope to make one soon :)

That's a great idea :) I could even use a small magnet and a reed switch as the reference point. It would have to be positioned away from the steppers but it could work and be hidden too. Thanks for the idea :)

Hi, that sounds like a nice project :)If you want to make an isosceles triangle you'll need to make the bottom angles a bit wider to allow for a tighter top angle. All the angles must add up to 180°. To work out the angles you'll need to use a bit of trigonometry, so I drew this diagram to help :)

Thanks :)

Thanks, I'm glad you feel this meets your exceptional opinion of eggs. :)

Yeah I was actually looking to have the mechanism work in this way but I couldn't think of an accurate, reproducible way to make hexagon holes. Maybe next time :)

what a great idea! You could even sub-divide the draws to store spices :)

Really nice, the stain looks awesome! What brand of stain and varnish did you use?

Many thanks, I'm hoping to build my own chest soon

Hi, The three cams rotate inside the box where they catch on a lip built into the front panel of the box. If the cam is rotated so the flat edge is parallel to the front of the box, they do not catch on this lip and the box can be opened. The combination can be changed by loosening the collar screw on the cam and changing the position of the flat edge relative to the marker on the dial. I added an extra photo of the inside of the box so you can see the lip clearly.

Thanks, I appreciate it :D

Damn man, I'm impressed! I'm happy to see that this instructable has inspired you to make all of these, keep it up:)