Introduction: Crowbar Case
After making tape and spray painting a crowbar Half Life 2 style, I decided to make a fire extinguisher style case for it. I didnt have any the right size, so I made one from scratch out of a large sheet of MDF.
It wasnt designed as an instructable when I made it, so I the pictures may not be so much help if you make one for yourself.
Step 1: Cut Outs
I basically produced 3 pairs of MDF rectangles, and cut a further rectangle in one, leaving a 4cm border
Step 2: Joining / Painting
I used nylon corner pieces to attach the 4 sides together, and drilled further holed to attach the back plate using small bolts (Approx 3-4mm diameter, and 20mm in length)
Note: I did not sand the edges down, but it will greatly improve the quality if you do.
After joining the sides (But not yet the front piece), paint everything in a thick, gloss coat of red, unless you wish to use the metallic baking in step 5, in which case you will not need to paint all of the back face, just the outer edge (1cm border). Make sure there is plenty of ventilation when painting.
Note: I did not sand the edges down, but it will greatly improve the quality if you do.
After joining the sides (But not yet the front piece), paint everything in a thick, gloss coat of red, unless you wish to use the metallic baking in step 5, in which case you will not need to paint all of the back face, just the outer edge (1cm border). Make sure there is plenty of ventilation when painting.
Step 3: Attachments
This stage involves the crowbar holding brackets, hinges, and latch.
You will have to find springy pipe brackets slightly smaller than the diameter of your crowbar (About 2cm). This ensures a tight grip, and 2 clips should be suppicient to hold a 1-2kg crowbar.
I attached the hinges to the inside of the front cover, and the outside of the top piecs. This means that it can easily open 90°-120° but is hidden from view when looked at from the front. If the front face were positioned lower down, you would be able to open it at least 180°.
The latch is an old magnetic door latch, possible used on cupboards. I bolted the bottom piece in place, and epoxied the other to the the back of the front face.
You will have to find springy pipe brackets slightly smaller than the diameter of your crowbar (About 2cm). This ensures a tight grip, and 2 clips should be suppicient to hold a 1-2kg crowbar.
I attached the hinges to the inside of the front cover, and the outside of the top piecs. This means that it can easily open 90°-120° but is hidden from view when looked at from the front. If the front face were positioned lower down, you would be able to open it at least 180°.
The latch is an old magnetic door latch, possible used on cupboards. I bolted the bottom piece in place, and epoxied the other to the the back of the front face.
Step 4: Plastic Viewing Window
I used 3mm acrylic for mine, but 0.5mm plastic sheets may work just as well (lighter too!). Depending on the window's weight, choose a suitable fixing method. I used 10 small bolts and washers, though epoxy glue may best suit lightweight plastic (I do love epoxy glue!). I cut it so that there was a 2cm overhang around the viewing window.
Make sure you clear out MDF dust if drilling straight through the MDF and plastic, or it will leave a visible gap between the layers.
Make sure you clear out MDF dust if drilling straight through the MDF and plastic, or it will leave a visible gap between the layers.
Step 5: Metallic Backing
An aesthetic addition to make the crowbar stand out more from the red background, I used metallic textured paper on the back face.
If you decide to use vinyl lettering, or just paper letters for that matter, the backing is not so necessary, as the white distracts you from the shear abundance of red paint.
This is designed to be a vightweight (So I could hang it from a shelf), low budget instructable using common household tools (Most advanced was a jigsaw for the cutting of each piece). So if you are making a higher quality case, try using wood (You can screw the back plate right on to the sides this way, with out the need for corner pieces).
Thanks for reading!
Step 6: Lettering
Finally, months after finishing the case, I have made a quick set of letters for the window panel. Basically produced by writing the text out on a 2D design program on an A3 layout, then laser cut, and stuck on with pritt stick.
A vinyl cutter would have been a better alternative, leaving less residue, quicker, and easier to position, but this was nearly as effective anyway. I think the font is Arial (All in uppercase), because this most closely resembles the text on traditional "Break Glass" signs.
A vinyl cutter would have been a better alternative, leaving less residue, quicker, and easier to position, but this was nearly as effective anyway. I think the font is Arial (All in uppercase), because this most closely resembles the text on traditional "Break Glass" signs.
