I decided to have some gay helix fun: this is an intermediate level knitting pattern (if you can manage a basic pair of socks you should be fine), with the rainbow and black yarns spiraling around each other throughout. I've included the exact instructions for how I knitted the socks, but there are a few options sprinkled throughout for if you'd like to customise further. The fabric of the sock warps from side to side on the foot, and then spirals up the leg for drunken gay goodness.

Abbreviations used:

k = knit
p = purl
m1r = make 1 right
m1l = make 1 left
cdd = central double decrease (I used slip 2 together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over)
kyok = knit 1, yarnover, knit 1 (all in same stitch)
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip slip knit

Supplies

5x 2.25mm double pointed needles (circulars are not recommended for helix knitting, although you can make it work if you really want to), or the size of needle you need to get a gauge that fits your foot!
2x colours of 4-ply sock yarn. I went for one black, one self striping. For a subtle choice, pick two tonal yarns. For ultimate chaos, pick two clashing variegated or self striping yarns. Your socks will look like a broken CRT TV, and you'll horrify people wherever you go. Recommended!! You'll need around 50g of each colour
Small amount of contrast colour scrap yarn
scissors
darning needle
sock blockers (optional)

Drunken gay spiral socks charts.pdf
Download

Step 1: Toe

Cast on 24 stitches in black across 2 needles using Judy's Magic cast on, Figure of 8, or Turkish cast on. I used Judy's Magic cast on here. You should have 12 stitches on each needle.

Divide across 4 needles: you should now have 6 stitches on each needle.

This is where the helix begins: if you find it too fiddly for the toe, you can always do the heel and toe in plain black rather than spiralling.

Knit across the first 3 needles in black. Turn back to the beginning of the round, and begin knitting in rainbow. All rainbow rounds are increase rounds on the toe, so at the beginning of needle 1, k1, m1r, k to end. On needle 2, k to last st, m1l, k1. Drop rainbow yarn. Turn back to where you left the black yarn (at the end of needle 3), and knit plain across 2 needles. Drop black, turn back to rainbow, and knit 2 increase needles in the same way.

Continue in this way, always knitting across 2 needles in plain black, and then 2 in rainbow increases, until all 4 needles have 16 stitches, making 64 stitches total. You have now completed the toe (64 stitches).

This sock has a decent amount of stretch and should fit many feet, but to make it larger or smaller you can either adjust needle size, or add or remove 1 knit stitch from each part of the pattern repeat (56 or 72 stitches total) across the whole circumference. Compare Charts A and C to see how I increased the stitch count between the foot and leg.

Step 2: Start Foot Pattern

Continuing in helix stripes (always chasing each colour with the other, so you should always knit across 2 needles in a colour, switch, and do the same again), work the first half of Chart A (delineated in red) for sock 1, or Chart B for sock 2 across the top two needles. I swapped between the left and right leaning parts (top and bottom red areas) of the chart after every half block of colour (approximately 12 rounds), but feel free to change as often and irregularly as you like. I would recommend changing directions a few times on the foot though, otherwise the fabric will skew too much to one side and be imbalanced. The sole needles are worked in plain stockingette.

Continue working in pattern until you are approximately 7cm from the end of your heel. Always stop sooner than you'd think!

Step 3: Insert Heel Placement

On the two sole needles, knit across both needles using the contrasting colour scrap yarn (pictured in yellow). Then go back to the start of the first sole needle, and continue knitting in your regular helix colours. Continue working as before (the top two needles in pattern, the two sole needles in plain stockingette) for around 2cm.

Step 4: Leg

Switch to Chart C or D (you will be changing directions in your fabric skewing one more time, use whichever chart pairs with your last foot direction) and work the pattern all the way round the sock now. In the first rainbow round you will be increasing by 1 stitch in each repeat, or 8 total (72 stitches).

Continue spiralling happily up the leg, until you feel like you've got enough sock. I did 10cm, or 52 rounds.

Step 5: Cuff

Continue working the same pattern as chart C or D, but change all black rounds to purl throughout. Work cuff for approximately 2cm.

To bind off, pick something stretchy. I used Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy bind off, purlwise in black.

Step 6: Afterthought Heel

On either side of your scrap yarn, pick up 32 stitches then pick or snip the scrap yarn out (64 stitches total). I also like to pick up 2 stitches at each end of the heel, cross them, and immediately decrease them to close up the gap. Begin knitting heel in helix style, worked in stockingette. Each rainbow round is a decrease round: at the start of needles 1 and 3 you should 1k, ssk, k to end, and on needles 2 and 4, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. All black rounds are worked plain. Continue working to 24 stitches, 6 on each needle, finishing entirely in rainbow. Graft together in black.