Introduction: Exclusive Concrete Lamp

About: DIY, 3Dprinting,Concrete, Electronics, Maker

This is a tutorial on how to make a real concretelamp, i have spent 100´s of hours to make this perfect, so please enjoy it and check out my youtubechannel and subscribe :)
I like quality and details so im going to show you how to make the realdeal.

Diamond polishpads i have one of each grit (from 60 to 3000) -
3D-printer -
Solder iron -
Gluegun -
Trowel -
Cutting Plier -

Bill of material:
Lampsocket E27 -
E27 bulb Edison -
Textile cord -
Cable gland -
Lampswitch -
Shrinkingtube -
Wallplug retro UK -
Sealer for concrete -
Concrete Pigment Black -

Wallplug 220V EU -

Regular concrete, portland cement

Video instructions:

Step 1: 3D-print

3D-print the molds from here or thingiverse:

For the outer molds 20% infill is good.

IMPORTANT: For the inner molds "E27 Mold" and "buttonmold" make sure that you DONT print them with more than 5% infill, and DONT use more than one perimeter as in the picture above. The reason is that it should be easy to break the inner mold after the concrete has cured.

Step 2: Assamble and Greasing

Grease your molds with vaselin or use release agent so it will be easy to disassambley the mold later on.
Assamble the mold with m3 screws and nuts.

Step 3: Mix Concrete

Use a trowel to mix the concrete, do not use to much water! it should be a pretty solid mixture, if you´re uncertain read the instuctions on the bag,mix for 4-5 minutes by hand.

Step 4: Pour and Cover

Put the concrete in the mold, vibrate it with the trowel so there is no airpockets in the mold! and make sure to cover it with plastic! Leave it for curing for at least 1 week, but if possible 2 weeks or more. The longer you wait for the curing before polishing, the shinier the concrete will get when you polish it with the diamondpads.

Step 5: Disassambley the Mold, CAREFULLY AND IN THE RIGHT ORDER!

Untight the cablegland, and drill out the innermold called "Plug 1" and also remove "Plug 2"

Step 6: Disassambley

Remove the "E27 mold", use tools such as knife, plier and screwdriver, dont be violent! ;)

Step 7: Disassambley

Untight the screws and remove the "bottompart" of the lamp.

Step 8: Disassambley

Carefully drill out the first layer of "buttonmold" from the top of the lamp, then use plier and knife from the buttom to get all "leftovers" out

Step 9: Disassambley

"spread" each part of the mold when you disassamble the sides, and go slowly so you dont break any edges.

Step 10: It´s Time to Start Polishing Your Concrete.

As you see you will need a variety of diffrent diamondpads, i have grits from 30 to 3000 grit. The links for where to buy them is at the start. Start with a 60 or 120 grit to remove the sharp edges before you break them.

Step 11: Polish

Use a bucket full of water and put all of your diamondpads in there and dip them in water before start "grinding" after they get full off concrete between the "grinders pads" wash them and the lamp, and continue. Start with a 30 grit and work step-by-step until a 800 grit. Grind with a circular motion. Wash with clean water and let it dry for 20 minutes.

Step 12: Make Slurry to Get Rid of the Concrete Pores.

Unless you don´t want a rough surface you should make some concrete slurry. Before I start mix the slurry i moister or wet my concretelamp with a little, little water to make it adhesive even better. I also use concrete bonding adhesive that i mix 50/50 with water, and then i use a strainer to stir/get rid of the big aggregat from the concrete, i just want the cement. If you wish you can add some iron oxid pigment powder if you want some patina. I went for the black pigment, i used a latex glove to "massage" it in to the concrete pores. Let it dry for 5 minutes and use your latexglove remove the excessive slurry by "grinding" your glove againts the surface.

Step 13: Polish It Again

Now you can proberly start with a 200 grit and go step-by-step up to 3000 or higher if you got. After you are done, wash off your lamp with clean water and let dry before sealing.

Step 14: Sealing

For the sealing i use something called "betonglack in swedish" (concrete sealer) im not sure if you can buy it worldwide, but i will put a link for cheng countertop sealing that is supposed to be great from what i have heard.
I use a cloth to apply the sealer, and let it dry for 20-50 minutes, then i rub it with the nylon, and apply more sealer, repeat 4-5 times.

Step 15: Assambley of Electrical Components

First make sure the swith and E27 socket fits, then insert the maincable trough the cablerestrainer (cable gland) cut two 10-15 cm long wires and install to the switch on each side connect one of the sides to the socket, and the other one should be soldered to the "main cable" that goes trough the cable-restrainer.

Step 16: Tight the Electrical Parts, Glue, Wallplug

Tight your cable restrainer, e27 socket-nut and switch-nut.Glue all the cables in place. Also connect your wallplug.

Step 17: Finished!

Insert bulb and glue your logotype, you are done!

Please support me and my work by like and subscribing to my youtube-channel.

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