Introduction: K'nex Semi-Auto Revolver

About: I'm in my final year of Product Design at uni so I don't have as much time for tinkering as I'd like. When I'm free I enjoy making props,mechanical models and an ever-growing 1/72 model of wartime Stalingrad -…
The first K'nex double action revolver, it's only been...oooh... at least 3 years too long since I first made it but over that time I have fiddled and tweaked it to what it is today. So it's finally here YAAAAAAYY!

It can shoot oodammo, blue, green or white rods (I find that I get the most range from the white rods). 
When shot horizontally the range with one band is about 25 feet.

Unlike other K'nex guns with cylinders this one has an auto-revolver mechanism that rotates the cylinder whenever the trigger is pulled, so you never have to rewind it, EVER!

Step 1: Frame

Okay, soooo...

1. Fabricate 1 like so. Merci beaucoup.
2. And a further 1 alikea thiis!
3. Attach these yellow rods and make sure they are in the same places. 

Now set these aside.

4. Make 3 of such a thing.
5. Fix the layers with rods.

Step 2: Trigger, Pawl and the Hammer

'Probably the heaviest trigger pull in the world'  
That is probably true for this gun if you exclude the lovely Nagant 1895 Gas Seal Revolver.
So you have been warned, THIS GUN IS NOT FOR WUSSES it is painful to shoot. But don't fret friends, we shall stay calm, think of home and pull through as we pull back.

Firstly I would like to thank Mepain for inspiring me with his semi-auto pistol-thing (lovin' the Barry White-style voice!).
You should also check out oodalumps' work with semi-automatics (first semi auto-going out on a limb ), semi-auto rifle!
(We'll settle up later for the advertising fee yeah ooda :P)
Also Kinetic's semi-auto rifle looks really cool, I can't wait for that. It even has a horizontal (P90 style) magazine on it.

All, like my revolver, are powered by the energy used in pulling the trigger being rapidly transferred to the projectile (unlike those that use pre-cocked mechanisms ) which reminds me I have an even lower powered (yes that is astonishingly physically possible) full auto pistol I must post instructions for.

Oh yes, we are supposed to be building, anyhoo.

1. Trigger.  Make Odeen  (that is one in Russian. See if there is a gun learning is always more fun!)
The placement is correct in the photo and no, this cannot be replaced by red connectors, the rod pops out from the bending moment.
 Now make the trigger so it can be depressed without pliers, this is how I like it, you can tinker around to see what you prefer, but this is the strongest method I have found.

2. Like on most (nearly all modern) revolvers (excluding the Webley-Fosbery self-cocking revolver ) the pawl is what rotates the cylinder to the correct position so as to line up the hammer with a fresh round.
So, just make one of these, simple as.

3. Hammer. As the name suggests this is what will smash into the back of the rod in an attempt to propel it.
So take 3 white connectors bash in a white rod to hold it together.
4. Make this.
5-8. Attach it all together.

Step 3: Cylinder

1&2. Make 8 of these chambers (6 Lt grey connectors on a blue rod) - note the placement of the 2 attached at a different angle, we shall call these 'Pedro'.
3. Make 2 if you will.
4. Now pop all of your 8 little lovelies on to the 2 discs as shown.

Oooh remember that the inner side of the cylinder is the one with the Pedro 1 connector in.

5. Now that the base is made put a white rod in all 8 tubes (I know they aren't all white but then variety is the spice of life)

6. Tada!

Step 4: Indexer

You know when you hear the rattle as the gunslinger spins the cylinder on his Peacemaker .45? Well, that is the sound of the pawl and the little indexer that ensures proper hammer-cylinder-barrel alignment.

1&2. Construct the indexer. (Make sure the tan clips are pointing the same way as the Lt Grey Connector)

3.. Make 4.
4. Make Odeen (1). We're learning!!
5. And odeen again.

6. Now stick 'em all on here won't you good ol' chap!  Would you be so kind as to clip them all to a yellow rod as well.

Step 5: Assembly!!!

Now we've got all these bits we can stick 'em all together.

1. Push a grey spacer (or 3 blue spacers) on this rod)
2. Put the hammer on too and add another grey spacer.

3. Push a grey spacer (or 3 blue spacers) on this rod) - this seems familiar *shifty eyes*
4. Slide on the trigger.
5. Now put another grey spacer on the rod.

6. Add the thickness of 6 connectors in spacers (12 blues, 4 silvers) onto the yellow rod by the hammer.
7. Put the pieces on the yellow rod above the trigger like so, this time the order is important. The space to the left of the photos is also necessary.

9. Slip the pawl on to the trigger.

Before the pawl falls off attach the other frame panel.

Step 6: Assembly, Part 2 - Electric Boogaloo

1. Grab your frame bit from way back in step one and attach it to the red connectors in the precise position shown. I WILL NOT ACCEPT DEVIATION!!! 

2. Get out a yellow rod and slide it through the cylinder, then put on another white connector and a blue spacer.
3. Spin that baby round and push on 2 grey spacers (6 blues), you may be able to see that I have wrapped an elastic band around the rod as a shock absorber.

4. Attach this to the middle connector.
5. ...and to the green connector here.

The Return of the Indexer

6. Clip on these grey connectors.
7. Put the indexer on like so.
8. then seal with a red connector.

Step 7: Band Placement.

..and that's the way you do it.