Introduction: Loki's Scepter
For the spear head, I used craft foam, Worbla, scissors, hot glue, heat gun, and spray paints.
For the mind stone, I used air dry clay, paint, and a silver coil ribbon.
The handle is a long dowel from Home Depot.
Step 1: Create Mock Pieces
What I mean by this is to break down each piece you think you need/want for the head of the scepter, sketch them out, estimate then measure dimensions, and cut out “mock,” life size pieces.
When I sketch my blueprint, I Identify what parts make up the scepter and pull them apart in a rough sketch. Here is where you should also eyeball the measurements of each piece in reference to how they will fit onto the dowel.
Step 2: Trace and Cut Mock Pieces
Use the blueprint to help you keep track and trace and cut all the intended parts. I just used scratch paper for everything except the blade because it was a larger piece. I used a legal-size manila folder that allowed me to sketch and cut the whole piece without breaking it into two parts.
My rough measurements are:
Gold Base Pieces (pictures 1 and 2): Length from 1-4 follows: 9 in, 8 in, 7 in, 4.5 in. Width from furthest points 1-4 follows: 6 in, 6.5 in, 5.5 in, 4 in.
Blade Piece (picture 3): The total length is 14.5 in. In three sections A’s length x width is 7.5 in x 3 in. B’s is curved into 4.5 in x 1.5 in. C’s will wrap around the dowel and go under the base pieces, at 2.5 in x 2 in.
Hook Piece (picture 4): The length is 3.5 in. The top width is 3 in. The bottommost width is 2 in.
Metal End (picture 5 and 6): The top piece from highest point to bottom is 5 in x ~0.8 in. The bottom piece should be measured at an angle since it will be a slanted piece. Lengthwise, it is 6.5 in; the longest width is 3.5 in; the shortest width (down the slant) is 2 in.
Step 3: Assemble Mock Pieces
I used small pieces of tape to put the base pieces onto the dowel, then put the head together before slipping it under the base pieces. After seeing how it connected, I made adjustments accordingly, such as cutting off some edges or adding new measurements.
Once it fits as you want, make sure to trace where the base piece covers the metal blade parts so you know more accurately where you will be gluing.
Step 4: Create Actual Pieces
Now that we know how we want our pieces to be, I used a thick Sharpie to trace each one onto craft foam and cut them apart (remember that the hook requires two copies). For the pieces that will be Worbla’ed, I placed the mock piece underneath so the slight size difference is visible- the craft foam piece should be smaller since the Worbla needs all edges to adhere to each other and this will add on to the size around the entire piece.
Step 5: Attachment Part 1
These are the pieces that need to be put together on their own before they can start to be attached as a whole.
Gold Base Piece 1*- Needs Worbla “sandwiching” since this is the first base piece and it will also be further securing the blade to the dowel. Once you have it Worbla-ed, this piece also needs to be shaped. Do this by gently warming it up (after it’s set) and slowly rounding it like a taco shell. Fit to dowel to check.
Blade Piece*- Needs Worbla “sandwiching.”
Hook Piece- The middle section of the two pieces need to be glued together, but the two small extensions cannot be glued because they will go around the mind stone. I like to use Gorilla Wood Glue for both gluing and priming, BUT I tried it and I just redid it with hot glue.
Metal End Top Piece- This is where I made a little revision. Instead of just using the craft foam, which was too flimsy, I used Worbla. I folded two pieces together, traced and cut out the top piece. This way, it is thin but still sturdy.
(Not pictured) Metal End Bottom Piece*- Needs Worbla “sandwiching” since this is another connecting point between the blade and dowel.
*To “sandwich” with Worbla.
With my heat gun, I heated one sheet of Worbla first, then placed the craft foam piece onto the sheet, making sure it adhered. Then I heated the second sheet and covered the entire thing with the second sheet, followed by an overall heat and press with my hands and the edge of a scissor’s handle to make sure the edges of the wrapped foam were well adhered and as close to the Worbla’s edges as possible (see first picture).
While it was still slightly warm, I cut each piece out with the scissors. If it becomes difficult to cut, simply heat it up a little again. Make sure to heat and close any gaps that may open up after you cut.
Step 6: Prime
However you do it, make sure to prime all the craft foam. I did heat the foam, so I only used 1 coat of Gorilla Wood Glue. It’s easier if you add some water to a foam sponge brush before dipping in glue. Make sure you get the glue into any crevices.
Step 7: Attachment Part 2
Now that the smaller, individual pieces are put together, we can attach them to each other and form fuller pieces.
Blade Piece (2) + Hook Piece (3)- Heat the thinner neck of the blade and fit the hook piece into the space. Be careful when you heat that you don’t let the blade droop or change shape. Let it cool completely. Metal End (4)’s
Top and Bottom Pieces- Cut a small fingertip-like piece of Worbla to adhere on the other side of the Top Piece for uniformity. Place the pieces together while holding the dowel to eyeball where you want the pieces. Use a Sharpie to trace where each section will connect, then heat and adhere. Smooth out the connection lines with heat as necessary.
Step 8: Wrap Dowel
Usually I like to wrap wooden dowels with craft foam to give it a cushion and make it look bigger, but I am not planning to create an intricate handle, so I just wrapped the entire dowel with painter’s tape, as many layers as necessary to cover the wood and keep edges smooth and flat.
Step 9: Spray Paint
This is going to be a step that takes a few repetitions. I use the Rustoleum 2X Aluminum Spray Paint and Krylon ColorMaster spray paints, but I prefer Rustoleum. It is both stronger in color and easier to use. Spray paint 1-2 layers (or more, if needed) and give it time to dry in between coats. Don’t rush the process or else you can ruin your coats.
Gold- the dowel and individual bases
Silver- the two blade pieces
At this point, I’m fed up. I’m done. I don’t wanna do any more additional details. You may if you want. If you do, do it at this point before the pieces get put together.
Step 10: Attachment Final- Silver Blade Piece
Everything was seamless in theory when I created my plans, but now that I am actually here, it is a little frustrating. This final step for the scepter piece is the most amateur-ish part, I believe.
Silver Blade Piece- To attach this onto the dowel, my original plan was to have the Worbla base wrap completely around and adhere both ends to each other.
-Problem: In my measurements, I didn’t account for the wraparound width, so I ran out of Worbla to wrap around. I also realized that the Worbla wasn’t really sticking to the wooden dowel.
-Solution: You need to do this part in one setting, but it won’t take long and will need quick, heat-resistant hands (if possible).
First, heat the middle line of the base piece of the Worbla blade and add a line of hot glue as well. Immediately secure the dowel end on top of the Worbla and hold firmly for a few seconds before letting it sit at an even line to completely cool off so the piece doesn’t bend.
Next, heat the small piece of Worbla, add hot glue onto the open, opposite end of the dowel and place the heated Worbla piece on top.
Last, add hot glue and heat Worbla section by section until it completely wraps around the dowel.
Step 11: Attachment Final- Silver Attachment Piece
I forgot to take a picture of this, but the first thing you want is to add another wraparound of Worbla. Heat the wraparound on the dowel and heat the straight edge of the metal piece and push them together to adhere.
Step 12: Attachment Final- Gold Base Pieces
For the biggest and first base piece, use the heat gun to heat it into the appropriate shape around the dowel and close it shut as closely as possible. After it cools off and hardens completely, use hot glue to add each of the pieces, one by one.
Step 13: Details
I chose to add a few details because the final product disappointed me in how plain it looked.
Around the Edges- I used tissue to paint on black paint around certain edges where metal met metal, then used a clean tissue to wipe most of it off. This adds some depth and shadows (I hope) and spritzed a single light coat of silver spray paint. I also painted the outer edges of the blade black.
Norse Words- I took a few of Tom Hiddlestone’s quotes from the movies and translated it to Norse on a website and wrote them on the top layers of each gold piece.
Step 14: Mind Stone- Mold
I took a long time with this because I was unsure of what to use to create the mind stone. I vacillated from using light bulbs, joysticks, Easter eggs, Worbla, cellophane, etc. before finally getting back into the groove and discovering crystal clear putty- which I did not use because putty cracks when hardened, although the crystal putty was an exciting prospect. I mention this because if you considered these options, it’s okay, and if you’re already a pro, go ahead and have a laugh at me. What I ended up using is Air Dry Clay. The price for a 1.75-2.5 oz container is around $6 from Amazon, Target, and Joann’s, so I chose the ACTIVA Hearty Clay from Amazon for Prime shipping and cash back.
So to mold, I rolled a small ball of clay and held it up several times against the scepter to measure its fit within the metal and into the base. It looks like a small baseball bat!
Step 15: Mind Stone- Paint and Coil
After the clay fully dried, I painted it a deep blue and speckled white on it to mimic the shine/glow of the stone. After the paint fully dried, I sprayed a coat of clear glossy finish.
After the finish is fully dried, I have a silver stretch metallic coil that I slowly wrapped around the white base of the stone, securing part by part with the smallest amount of hot glue.
Attach it by glue gunning the base down, then wrapping the small silver pieces onto the stone.
Step 16: Final Pictures
Participated in the