Introduction: Pass Through Clamp From Clothes Pegs
More by the author:
About: hgv driver but only because it pays more than I can make otherwise
I came across an instructable for weaving a wire bracelets that required a clamp the finished weave could be passed through. I thought smoothing out the jaws of a clothes peg would probably do and whilst looking for some scrap wood to do this I came across a short length of spruce strip that suggested a version that would cope with a wider weave so I made both. regrettably most of my construction pictures were lost when my last phone died dramatically
Step 1: Materials
Three clothes pegs, a short length of 1/8" x 3/8" (3x10mm)spruce, and a lolly stick.
I actually use more than 3 pegs due to poor selection, and any strip wood would do I just happened to have a bit of spruce laying around
I actually use more than 3 pegs due to poor selection, and any strip wood would do I just happened to have a bit of spruce laying around
Step 2: Single Peg Version
separate the peg.
sand the lolly stick a)to improve glue adhesion b) if it is a salvaged one it removes the last residue of the lolly.
cut the stick to length in this case due to the shape of the stick this was decided by the point at which its width and that of the peg were equal. This gave me 2 pieces that were about 1"1/4 (30mm) long. [here after referred to as the jaw insert(s)]
A dry assembly at this point revealed I was going to need to cut away part of the jaws of the peg to get a good fit.
Images of this procedure are not available for the single peg version they are similar to the 2 peg version.
Place half the peg jaw side down on a flat surface place a jaw insert hard against it and mark the thickness, do this on both sides and with both halves of the peg. I decided just because it looked right that level with the spring securing slots would be far enough back to smooth the jaws out. I used a hard backed razor saw with a small miter box( this came with a hack saw frame from a diy store and cost about £5) to cut down to the thickens I required then cut away the surplus wood with a chisel the same result could be achieved with care and a small craft knife
sand the lolly stick a)to improve glue adhesion b) if it is a salvaged one it removes the last residue of the lolly.
cut the stick to length in this case due to the shape of the stick this was decided by the point at which its width and that of the peg were equal. This gave me 2 pieces that were about 1"1/4 (30mm) long. [here after referred to as the jaw insert(s)]
A dry assembly at this point revealed I was going to need to cut away part of the jaws of the peg to get a good fit.
Images of this procedure are not available for the single peg version they are similar to the 2 peg version.
Place half the peg jaw side down on a flat surface place a jaw insert hard against it and mark the thickness, do this on both sides and with both halves of the peg. I decided just because it looked right that level with the spring securing slots would be far enough back to smooth the jaws out. I used a hard backed razor saw with a small miter box( this came with a hack saw frame from a diy store and cost about £5) to cut down to the thickens I required then cut away the surplus wood with a chisel the same result could be achieved with care and a small craft knife
Step 3: Assembly
put the halves of peg back together with their spring. Find a section of plastic bag that is longer and wider than your jaw inserts this will go between them whilst the glue dries to stop the jaws sticking together.
Apply glue to the cut away areas of the jaws, fit the inserts, place the plastic in the jaws as deep as it will go and let the peg clamp shut adjust the positioning of the inserts if required and leave to dry (if you have done a neat job white pva wood glue will do, I used 2 pack quick set epoxy as I was using it on the 2 peg version and this one only needs a little dab)
Apply glue to the cut away areas of the jaws, fit the inserts, place the plastic in the jaws as deep as it will go and let the peg clamp shut adjust the positioning of the inserts if required and leave to dry (if you have done a neat job white pva wood glue will do, I used 2 pack quick set epoxy as I was using it on the 2 peg version and this one only needs a little dab)
Step 4: Wide Jaw 2 Peg Version
I cut 4 lengths of 3x10mm 45mm long, two of these form the jaws two the load spreaders to make both pegs work at the same time.
Using one of these sections I marked the areas of the jaws of the pegs that need cutting away and removed this with a chisel. Then cleaned up the area with a craft knife and sandpaper.
I then reassemble the pegs, applied a layer of epoxy glue to the cutaway sections and fitted the jaw bars with a plastic card between them to prevent the jaws sticking together.
I applied a small amount of glue in a thin layer to the outer ends of the pegs and put the spreader bars in place. As all the surfaces are smooth and flat the bars were pressed firmly into position and left to cure without clamping.
Using one of these sections I marked the areas of the jaws of the pegs that need cutting away and removed this with a chisel. Then cleaned up the area with a craft knife and sandpaper.
I then reassemble the pegs, applied a layer of epoxy glue to the cutaway sections and fitted the jaw bars with a plastic card between them to prevent the jaws sticking together.
I applied a small amount of glue in a thin layer to the outer ends of the pegs and put the spreader bars in place. As all the surfaces are smooth and flat the bars were pressed firmly into position and left to cure without clamping.
