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Hi Adam,Yup, I fear all 5.1 boards I have come across are also considerably bigger. I guess 2.1 is a good place to start and leaves room for upgrading in the future.Cheers,h.
Hi Adam,Thx, interesting idea. I haven't tried, but basically the concept is definitely not limited to 2.1, so I guess the answer is yes. On a quick scan I did not come up with any boards that go beyond 5.1 (which doesn't mean there are none). I guess you could connect 2 speakers to each of the 5 channels (caveat impedance!). It will definitely keep your printer busy for some time... ;-)Cheers,h.
Hi lawrence,This should not be a problem. The round rim should exactly fit the cutout in the main body. However, remember, you have to mount the driver from the inside (I changed this in the 4" design since it is just easier to mount the driver from the outside).Hope this helps,h.
Hi sven,Sound quality will largely depend on the driver. Hard to say but in your case "midrange" could imply it is not intended as a full range driver. Also, remember, it's still just a 3" driver.Cheers, h.
Glad you like it!
Thanks transport,Yes, I know, he asked for permission, so it's OK.
Thx and glad you like it!
Thx Cedric! Always nice to see people out there enjoying what you design.
Hi totalyserious,totally seriously this is actually Blender ;-)Cheers, h.
Thx Greg,In spite of the unconventional design it ultimately performs like an ordinary 6L (although it is physically only 3L) closed system, so pretty much any woofers that can live with this volume should work.Hope this helps, h.
Thx Jonathan,Looking forward to seeing your make!
Thx! I use silk filaments a lot, but also like the matte soft touch of carbon fiber.
2.1 Bluetooth Sound System - Fully PrintableView Instructable »
Hi KPL99,Actually no, I use a largely unmodified Ender 3 V1.0 (with Bowden extruder) and TPU works just fine (retraction is not perfect, so I do get a little stringing with TPU but that's something I can live with). Hope it helps, h.
Yes, you could definitely try. However, running a TPA3116 on 5V is a somewhat theoretical option. Output power is closely related to the voltage you use to run the amp. This means that you only get 2x50W out of the amp at 24V/4A (2A for mono). Even at 12V you are probably closer to 2x20W and 5V will give you something considerably below 10W (I think TI has a chart on its website with voltage vs output). Then again 5V is definitely worth a try. Worst thing that can happen is that you decide that you want more after all.Hope it helps, h.
Hi zanegordon,Where did you find this info? From all I know (and according to the seller's website) the BT module is rated 3.7-5V. Only the TPA3116 amp is rated 4.5-27V.Thanks, h.
Hi lesteves,Think of it sitting just to the right of the power adapter in the diagram (before it branches off to the step down converter). In other words lead the cable coming from the power adapter to the switch first and from there to the amp and buck converter.Hope this helps, h.
Hi gwbaker,Actually you don't really need a separate switch (but it's nice to have). In fact if you are using the the same amp I use, it has a switch built into the volume control (which, however, does not actually cut the power to the amp). The switch I use is a small 15x10 mm rocker switch:http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/K9L1vzn6Hope this helps, h.
Not too much difference, so depends on your design preference. I would go for V2.0 (or its 4" variety https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4750820 ). However, printed designs really work best in a 2.1 setup. Currently working on a (fully printed) subwoofer. Will post on Thingiverse Fri next week.
Hi irwincua,No, in this case just connect both to your 12 V power supply.Cheers, h.
Yes, I know. Very happy with this little driver but unfortunately that's a hard one to find outside of Europe. However, basically any 3.3" (8 cm - diameters are 76 mm for the speaker and 84 mm for the mounting holes, so this is closer to 3") full range driver should work.
Hi, Josep. Great. User timogiles has made some measurements on a minor remix (Thingiverse thing no 4673046) but this may not apply to an 8" hardwood design. Either way, very much looking forward to seeing your speakers!
I found www.quarter-wave.com to be a good reference for this kind of design plus there are even a few online calculators (just search back loaded horn calculator or design in Google). Problem is, whatever you end up calculating will inevitably fill your living room (maybe not if you live in hangar, then again...). However, I found these really helpful making me understand what a change in the size of the chamber, throat, tube, horn... would likely give me, scaled everything down, tried to squeeze this into a printable enclosure, changed 100 times, printed it, and (with lots of luck!) it turned out really nice for a speaker this size and budget.
No experience whatsoever with casting in aluminium but definitely a very interesting idea...
Thanks Peter, I fully agree. But remember, at around $20 this is definitely intended to be a budget desktop speaker (and in fact this amp board is not entirely noise-free even without being connected - then again, not bad considering the $3.5 price tag...) and not intended to replace your ... (fill in your favorite speaker - in my case my pair of old JVC Zero 6). In fact the final product (fortunately) turned out surprisingly noise-free, and the sound is really good for its size/budget.
I fear not on a standard (budget) 3D printer. Currently working on a 4" version, which is kind of borderline already.
Sí, creo que esto sería posible. El tamaño debe encajar y puede instalarlo directamente en la placa posterior.Espero que esto ayude.
Hi uboehm, The easiest way is to connect the first speaker through BT and the second speaker to the first / amplifier by wire (i.e. you connect R & L line out from the BT board to the amplifier and both drivers to the output, so you have stereo output instead of mono as shown in the wiring diagram). Definitely works but you will end up with a cable between the speakers. Advantage, you only need a single BT board, amp, and power supply.Option 2 would be to connect 2 independent BT speakers. I haven't tried, but from what I understand Dr. Google says it is feasible (e.g. with Samsung phones, iPhones, or some android apps) - the challenge here is not so much the BT board/speaker but rather your phone / BT source - Dr. Google should be able to help.
Plywood DML Speakers