Franks Instructables

In the past, many people who built kits didn't know the difference between rosin core solder for electronics and plumbing solder. They were both lead/tin. Radio/TV solder was usually 60/40 ratio and plumbing solder was 50/50. Both would work at the beginning, but over time the acid flux used in the plumbing trade would start to oxidize the joint causing a poor electrical connection. This might be your problem. You will know if the old flux used is acid based if it makes a "frying sound" when you heat it up with a soldering iron. This being the case, every solder joint will need to be re-soldered and as much of the old solder will need to be removed with a solder sucker. You then can re-solder every joint with modern rosin core solder. Even rosin core solder joints can b...

In the past, many people who built kits didn't know the difference between rosin core solder for electronics and plumbing solder. They were both lead/tin. Radio/TV solder was usually 60/40 ratio and plumbing solder was 50/50. Both would work at the beginning, but over time the acid flux used in the plumbing trade would start to oxidize the joint causing a poor electrical connection. This might be your problem. You will know if the old flux used is acid based if it makes a "frying sound" when you heat it up with a soldering iron. This being the case, every solder joint will need to be re-soldered and as much of the old solder will need to be removed with a solder sucker. You then can re-solder every joint with modern rosin core solder. Even rosin core solder joints can become "cold" solder joints over time, these can simply be heated up again and a little new solder added, making a nice new connection. When I did the meter, I just re-soldered all the joints as a matter of practice. I didn't have the plumbing solder problem with the meter I restored but I have seen it in various antique radios that I have restored. One additional tip I would suggest. Make sure the battery connections are nice and clean when you put in a new cell or you won't get full deflection in the ohmmeter. You mentioned that the tubes are strong and all the resistors are OK, one additional thing I would do is take a pencil eraser and rub the tube prongs a few times to remove the oxidation from them. Then take the tubes and insert it a few times in and out of the sockets. The tube pins and sockets were coated with metals that didn't corrode easily but a gentle cleaning with a soft eraser is always good practice as you never know where the meter has been stored and over the years deposits could've built up even on the inside of the meter. I would also get hold of some good quality electronics contact cleaner. Radio Shack had TV tuner cleaner which was an excellent product but probably don't have it anymore. There are other products out there on the market which are perfect for cleaning switch contacts. I hope that some of these tips helps.

Perhaps you could put in a little explanation as to what a Pyranometer is and the difference between it and a Pyrometer. I'm sure that I wasn't the only person that looked at the Instructable and thought Pyrometer or remote temperature sensing detector.

You mentioned that some tubing cutters have a de burring tool on them. Perhaps you could add another step showing what that attachment looks like and how to use it.

I bought a couple of these off the internet recently and it's an extremely useful piece of equipment for sorting and testing components.

I don't have the original unit I took pictures of handy, but looking at the picture of the circuit board on the first page of the Instructable, I believe the component at the bottom of the switch is the crystal. It kind of looks like a ceramic capacitor, usually designated with an "X" or "Cr" If you don't have access to a scope or spectrum analyzer you can make a simple RF probe for your meter so you can see if you have an output signal. Here are some good examples: http://n5ese.com/rfprobe1.htm

everything's digital now so how about an analog contest.

When speaking about Teflon tape it's always good to know that the yellow tape is for gas and white is for water. The yellow can be used for water but never use white Teflon tape for gas.

Stinky Hockey equipment, a particularly Canadian dilemma! Lol