Happy_Mad_Scientist

@KyleD122 Not with my moms nose 😂How else can you tell though?

Yeah I'll put a disclaimer. I would think though that this filter isn't obsolete as it still removes the VOC's. I thought this thing had the UFP's covered but I guess not. Prob just add a "HEPA" filter and be good to go? Thanks btw. Wouldn't want anybody (myself included) to think they're ok and not be. I appreciate it!

My good advice: change them every ~20hrs like the manufacturer saysMy bad advice: I think I can make em last 200+hrs. So far I've printed about ~80hrs and it's hard to tell but I think it's prob at 90-95% yet. I still can't smell any "fumes" at all in the room I have it in. As soon as I smell the stuff though it's gettin changed. If you had a sealed enclosure you could prob just turn it on a minute or two before you open it and make it last really long.

@KyleD122 Not with my moms nose 😂How else can you tell though? It seems to me smell would be a decent indicator of when it's getting to levels that are unhealthy.

In general yes you are correct. However this camera is designed to work in low light so it needs every kind of ambient light it can get including ir light and thus has now ir filter. Normally in these FPV cameras the IR filter is in the lens anyway.

This is not dangerous in the least. The batteries are wired in parallel not in series. series: connecting + to - to + to - to + to - which gives you combined voltage of each single cell. This method would defiantly require a balance charger to prevent a catastrophic failure after many charges. Reason being some cells get higher voltage than others ie one battery is 50% charged and the other is 150% charged and very dangerous.parallel: the + are all connected together and the - are all connected together which gives the pack 3.7v (nominal voltage). The batteries are now seen as a single cell. They will self balance each other cause the electricity can flow between them (higher energy flows to battery with lower energy until they are equal)It can be very confusing. It took me days of rese...

This is not dangerous in the least. The batteries are wired in parallel not in series. series: connecting + to - to + to - to + to - which gives you combined voltage of each single cell. This method would defiantly require a balance charger to prevent a catastrophic failure after many charges. Reason being some cells get higher voltage than others ie one battery is 50% charged and the other is 150% charged and very dangerous.parallel: the + are all connected together and the - are all connected together which gives the pack 3.7v (nominal voltage). The batteries are now seen as a single cell. They will self balance each other cause the electricity can flow between them (higher energy flows to battery with lower energy until they are equal)It can be very confusing. It took me days of research to figure it out. It's like algebra though imo. once you figure it out it's easy. The reason i did this in the first place is cause three batteries creates a cell that is thick but not very wide. a single battery with the same mah would be pretty wide and long. thanks anyway for the concern!

I've thought about doing something like that in my next version. Could be pretty cool to have some depth perception I think. Thanks for the idea!

I've torn apart 3 camcorders from ebay (all sony). They all had a working view finder. I couldn't get any of them to work once they were taken out of the camcorder though. People are successful switching them and if you are experienced enough you could do it. The digital one I used is pretty good and higher resolution anyway imo.

I'd be happy to print one for you!Please email me at: jd3dprinting@gmail.com

Have you gotten it to work?

These FPV cameras actually have extremely low latency. It's pretty hard to fly a quad with any noticeable latency so it is kept as low as possible. Hope this answered your question!

Hmmm... you say it still isn't working? Do you have a multimeter? If so, turn it to the continuity and check between you solder connections. If it beeps, say, between + and - or two side by side solder connections, than your soldering job is your problem. Here is a little screenshot with some writing on it. If you have everything wired correctly and no accidental connection between solder joints, it should work. Don worry bout it 😁 Everybody has to start somewhere!

Hmmm... you say it still isn't working? Do you have a multimeter? If so, turn it to the continuity and check between you solder connections. If it beeps, say, between + and - or two side by side solder connections, than your soldering job is your problem. Here is a little screenshot with some writing on it. If you have everything wired correctly and no accidental connection between solder joints, it should work. Don worry bout it 😁 Everybody has to start somewhere!

Hmmm... you say it still isn't working? Do you have a multimeter? If so, turn it to the continuity and check between you solder connections. If it beeps, say, between + and - or two side by side solder connections, than your soldering job is your problem. Here is a little screenshot with some writing on it. If you have everything wired correctly and no connection between solder joints, it should work. Don worry bout it 😁 Everybody has to start somewhere!

Hmmm... you say it still isn't working? Do you have a multimeter? If so, turn it to the continuity and check between you solder connections. If it beeps, say, between + and - or two side by side solder connections, than your soldering job is your problem. Here is a little screenshot with some writing on it. If you have everything wired correctly and no accidental connection between solder joints, it should work. Don worry bout it 😁 Everybody has to start somewhere!

Ok so it looks like your switch is wired to the ext switch terminal. The switch should be wired enable pin and the ground -. I made this very same mistake but I didn't have my board go up in smoke. So next step is you could switch the switch (again, the the switch should have one wire going to the "en" pin and one going to the black ground) and then take a closeup of the wiring connecting the camera and display. Hope this helps!

Hmmm.... Here is a list of things you could check: (you prob will need the new board) - Make sure that the wires to the camera and display are not switched. - make sure there are no shorts in the places you soldered- try powering off USB (with and without the battery) and see if that makes a differenceIf you have any more questions I'm happy to answer them! Also lots of pictures is helpful

Hmmmm... looks like you soldered the battery to "ext sw" (exterior switch). It should have been soldered to the + and - terminals. I would think it's only the charging circuit which died. The display and the camera are prob fine. Let me know if this helps!

Response to Vitalij X tip. Can't stand that you cant respond to tips..."Another cool thing will be to modify on-eye display into near eye display, smth like this one: https://hackaday.io/project/12211-arduino-glasses-a-hmd-for-multimeter." It is a near-eye display. They are very rare and generally really expensive. The one used here has great resolution and isn't so bright that it hurts your eyes.

The camera runs off 5v. There is a voltage converter that converts it down to 5v so having more voltage is less efficient. hope this helps

I've been asked several times "why no spikes?" The answer is that it is supposed to be inconspicuous. I love to see peoples faces when I toss it at 'em.

I've been asked several times "why no spikes?" The answer is that it is supposed to be inconspicuous. I love to see peoples faces when I toss it at 'em 🤣🤣🤣

Cool! Have you tested the battery life yet? In my last NV camera, I used a 2,500mah 18650 and it has a 10-12 hr battery life.Make sure you test the DVR and are sure you are happy with its performance before you go and design a spot in the case for it... I want to helmet mount mine too (when I get time to do it).

Thanks! It's actually a stool. I did not make it but my Dad did. He owns Keystone Vintage Lumber and made it with recycled 100+ year-old wood. You'd think it would be uncomfortable but it is actually more comfortable than a hard flat surface.

Thanks! I hope everything goes well! I actually use hot glue because it can be removed but still is great at sticking.

Ok, so you are actually going to need to cut the cable on the near-eye display at about 2 inches long (short enough so it can lay strait inside the camera). Then strip off the outside insulation to reveal 4 small wires consisting of ground, 5v, video ground, and video in. Here is a diagram of what it might look like and I think I did match the colors of the wires to the actual thing.

Thanks. Yep, the video should be coming very soon. Haven't edited any of the footage yet cause I've been so freakin' busy but I think it should be out in 4-9 days. There are some cheap NV options out there like this one https://amzn.to/2KRlo7t which cost $95.00. I have never owned one of these and from the research I've done, it seems that the ES1 will have a higher resolution, better low-light detection, a rechargeable battery, able to be mounted on a helmet or as a scope, customizable lenses, and the option to record the video. I would think this could match almost any other digital NV out there (less than $600). If you put the right lens on it, you should be able to mount it behind a scope or red dot as well. Of course, your friends will probably think you are an absolute genius fo...

Thanks. Yep, the video should be coming very soon. Haven't edited any of the footage yet cause I've been so freakin' busy but I think it should be out in 4-9 days. There are some cheap NV options out there like this one https://amzn.to/2KRlo7t which cost $95.00. I have never owned one of these and from the research I've done, it seems that the ES1 will have a higher resolution, better low-light detection, a rechargeable battery, able to be mounted on a helmet or as a scope, customizable lenses, and the option to record the video. I would think this could match almost any other digital NV out there (less than $600). If you put the right lens on it, you should be able to mount it behind a scope or red dot as well. Of course, your friends will probably think you are an absolute genius for having the ability to build such a device and it is a really fun and useful thing to build. Anyway, I hope the video will be of help to you! (when I finally get it out) If you have any more questions don't heasitate to ask.

So as for seeing in the dark (without an IR light), it all depends on the lighting conditions. Some nights have lighting conditions that the camera is far superior to my own eyes and other nights it is only a very slight improvement compared to my own eyes (given that your eyes have adjusted to the dark for ~10 min). It especially excels when you have a lot of light pollution such as in a city or development.But that is without passive infrared light (invisible to the eye). Having an IR flashlight will let you see very clearly in any lighting conditions. You will be able to see as far as the flashlight can project the light. In fact, I ALWAYS use an infrared flashlight cause it makes the image easily readable in all lighting conditions.The pictures appear "grainy" but that is ...

So as for seeing in the dark (without an IR light), it all depends on the lighting conditions. Some nights have lighting conditions that the camera is far superior to my own eyes and other nights it is only a very slight improvement compared to my own eyes (given that your eyes have adjusted to the dark for ~10 min). It especially excels when you have a lot of light pollution such as in a city or development.But that is without passive infrared light (invisible to the eye). Having an IR flashlight will let you see very clearly in any lighting conditions. You will be able to see as far as the flashlight can project the light. In fact, I ALWAYS use an infrared flashlight cause it makes the image easily readable in all lighting conditions.The pictures appear "grainy" but that is cause it is a single frame taken from a video. It is a much higher resolution in reality.

There aren't too many features on the OSD... pretty much just exposure stuff, shutter stuff, battery voltage overlay, etc.

Not quite. That one will not be able to see as well in the dark. It could be used as a cheaper alternative though.

HonzaD1 Yes, good thinking. The FPV camera I used did not have an IR filter but if you choose to get different lenses, you might have to remove the IR filter from them.

spystealth1 Thanks! I would estimate the battery life is about 3 or so hours. Adding a Micro DVR to record the footage will drain the battery a lot faster but since its external, it doesn't have to be connected to the camera's battery.

sobenson Thanks! I painted it cause I wanted it to be smooth, matt-black and professional looking. Also, the paint makes it stronger. If I were to build this again I would acetone smooth it and then scuff the glossy surface. Finishing the surface isn't necessary of course it's just my preference.

Hmmm... I'm hesitant to sell a complete camera 'cause if a component breaks or burns out, I will be the only one that possesses the knowledge to fix it. Plus it is a good learning experience and most of your friends/family will think you are a genius if you build such a device. Maybe a kit would be a good solution?Nonetheless, I can offer a fully complete scope for $275.00 US plus shipping. Adding a Micro DVR to record footage will cost $285.00 US. I very much recommend getting an Infrared flashlight (you'll be disappointed if you don't) cause it makes the image clearer and lets you see on cloudy nights and in pitch black. One can be had for as little as $10 (the one I recommend is linked in the parts list).If you are still interested you can contact me at this email: jd3dprinting@gmail...

Hmmm... I'm hesitant to sell a complete camera 'cause if a component breaks or burns out, I will be the only one that possesses the knowledge to fix it. Plus it is a good learning experience and most of your friends/family will think you are a genius if you build such a device. Maybe a kit would be a good solution?Nonetheless, I can offer a fully complete scope for $275.00 US plus shipping. Adding a Micro DVR to record footage will cost $285.00 US. I very much recommend getting an Infrared flashlight (you'll be disappointed if you don't) cause it makes the image clearer and lets you see on cloudy nights and in pitch black. One can be had for as little as $10 (the one I recommend is linked in the parts list).If you are still interested you can contact me at this email: jd3dprinting@gmail.com

Thanks!

Selling just the 3d printed case or the whole thing put together and finished? I have a bit of experience printing and shipping (I ran a successful 5 star 3D Hub until they decided to ditch the little guys) and I would be open to selling these. The question is which platform to sell on. I think Etsy could work... let me know if you (or anybody else) are interested and I'll set up some sort of way to buy the printed case. Probably would price it at about $20 including shipping.

Thanks! I've already tried it (twice) and I've failed to get one to display video, unfortunately. After hours of research, I finally found a "near eye" display for about $80. Takes composite video and is 5V.

I got a Runcam NIGHT Eagle. Looks like the cameras in the video are just the standard Eagles. But anyway, I chose pro cause it has a sound output and I was planning to record a lot with it.So as for seeing in the dark, it all depends on the lighting conditions. Some nights have lighting conditions that the camera is far superior to my own eyes and other nights it is only a very slight improvement compared to my own eyes (given that your eyes have adjusted to the dark for ~10 min). It especially excels when you have a lot of light pollution such as in a city or development. I would definitely recommend an infrared light (completely invisible to the human eye except for a faint red glow on the "light bulb" itself). Even though it isn't completely necessary all the time it helps ...

I got a Runcam NIGHT Eagle. Looks like the cameras in the video are just the standard Eagles. But anyway, I chose pro cause it has a sound output and I was planning to record a lot with it.So as for seeing in the dark, it all depends on the lighting conditions. Some nights have lighting conditions that the camera is far superior to my own eyes and other nights it is only a very slight improvement compared to my own eyes (given that your eyes have adjusted to the dark for ~10 min). It especially excels when you have a lot of light pollution such as in a city or development. I would definitely recommend an infrared light (completely invisible to the human eye except for a faint red glow on the "light bulb" itself). Even though it isn't completely necessary all the time it helps provide a MUCH better picture. It will come in very handy believe me. Especially indoors.The pictures appear "grainy" but that is cause it is a single frame taken from a video. It is much higher resolution in reality.

Thank you for your service! I have never looked through a first gen but I've seen video footage of one and I'd say the image quality is about the same with easier interpretation as you said. When a bright light is pointed directly at it, the camera will adjust its exposure to match the bright light (effectively "flaring you out") as it would a normal camera when a bright light is pointed at it. As soon as the light is not pointing at the camera, it will almost instantly revert back to normal. There is no damage that occurs to the camera from being exposed to a bright light source. Hope that helped!

Using an actual IR flashlight helps a lot. I use this one all the time. https://amzn.to/2vWfjTRIt's adjustable which is nice. If you are indoors and wish to hide the red glow, you can point it at the ceiling and the light will reflect onto what you are trying to see making you untracable.

You can use an actual IR flashlight. I use this one all the time. https://amzn.to/2vWfjTRIt will also help in CQB with it being adjustable (I play a lot of long range stuff not too much CQB). Hope this helps!

Yes, I built this camera and my own version using the RunCam Night Eagle 2 Pro. https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Pocket-sized... It is better at seeing in the dark. You almost don't need any IR light if it's a clear night with a moon.

About $200 US with for everything you need to get it running. I have found that some of the more expensive parts go on sale from time to time. I actually built mine for around $140. The Infrared flashlight will cost about $50 with a battery and charger and the micro DVR cost $12. Not much considering the thousands of dollars you could spend on a new NV optic.

I'm happy to answer any questions!!! FIRE AWAY!!!

Your kinda right. PLA is generally considered safe and you can buy specialized PLA that is food grade. But PLA will dissolve over a long period of time which is a disadvantage (obviously). PET and PETG I'm pretty sure are food safe. ABS is for sure not food safe and the chemicals can be absorbed into your food and mouth.

yrralguthrie Did the rock contain any gold? It might have been gold just extremely impure. What is your point you are trying to make? Are you saying that a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen is not allowed to be referred to as oxy-hydrogen or HHO(which makes sense) or hydroxy gas and should only be referred to as "H2 + O2" or "oxygen gas hydrogen gas mix"?

I call it oxy-hydrogen. Just like a mixture of acetylene and oxygen is generally referred to as oxy-acetylene. It doesn't have to be a defined mixture to exist.

Yeah, a trigger mech would be nice. My air compressor is one of those big upright industrial ones. I think it is about 180-200 in the tank but its regulated down to 120. I do have a bike pump as shown in the video that makes it up there to 160ish but its held together with JB weld because some of the plastic parts broke from that pressure. Would like to get one of those PCP pumps but to much pressure will fold the seal of the dart, making it less powerful. Something I found out trying to shoot these with a homemade oxy-hydrogen gun.

Checked out your video and it looks pretty good! I actually have oiled the ball valve and "broke it in" so there no resistance. Furthermore, I have placed the ball valve in a spot so it is pulled easily with one finger allowing you to keep both hands steadying the airgun. Still, it does take some practice to pull the valve fast enough and it might be handy to put some trigger system like yours on it. Oh and the black iron pipe is rated for 750 psi. Yep. And that is seamed black iron pipe. Seamless black iron pipe can withstand pressure well past 2,000 psi. Although I'd probably have to change out the Shrader valve and the ball valve before putting any more the 300 psi in it.