How Do You - DIY

That's a really cool tip that I haven't thought of. It's easy for a bolts threads to get damaged, and your tip is a great way to help with that. Thanks for sharing the tip!

I really like the idea of making use of what you have available. Thanks for sharing your version! I haven't though about trying to do it like that. It makes a lot of sense.

Thanks! This trick can come in handy in a pinch.

I used to think the same thing... until I saw a self tapping bolt that doesn't drill the hole. What you're describing is a self drilling bolt. They drill and tap the hole at the same time. Tapping a hole is adding threads to a hole.

😂 I forgot to add a disclaimer that this isn't the proper way to connect PVC pipe. But yeah, this has come in handy for me a few times when a watertight connection isn't necessary. (or a temporary connection is preferred)

Sounds like "fun times"! It can be handy to be able to quickly modify what you have to get what you need.

1. When you're using a 2-sided perfboard, you can put a wire through one of the holes and solder it on both sides. It's also easy to use jumper wires to go from point to point.2. If I understand what you're describing, it sounds like you're essentially making a ground bus as you're soldering the ends together.I'm not very experienced with circuit design, so I hope these answers are helpful! Maybe other readers can expand on these.

I used to wonder why they would make solder boards with the same layout as breadboards, but your explanation is perfect. It just makes sense. Thanks for sharing!

Nice! Thanks for sharing!

That's a question. I think the main purpose for this specific circuit is educational. It's a good way to teach about and demonstrate inductors. It's also a good circuit for people to expand on as their education/experience grows. It's a basic DC voltage booster, so it can be used where a DC voltage needs to be boosted. But there are more complicated circuits that are usually better for that.So I guess you could say this is more of a "build for fun/practice" type of circuit.

Thanks! I figured out this trick for a different project, decided to use it here too.

Thanks! It's a good circuit for learning that.

I haven't, but that's a really good idea! It should be easy to do. Thanks for sharing your idea!

I think joule thief is kind of like a slang name for it.

Not yet, but that would look cool! I have a smaller cube build that I did, and the Instructable I made for it has some pictures before I added the borders (LEDs were not on though) https://www.instructables.com/Make-an-Infinity-Mirror-Cube/

Yes there is, I'm glad you asked! There are 2 Instructables/videos actually.One for the cube: https://www.instructables.com/Make-an-Infinity-Mir...and one for the stand: https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-Stand-for-My-...Step 16 for the stand has an important modification for the cube, so make note of that step when working on the cube. I accidentally shorted out an Arduino before I fixed it with that step.I would love to see how yours turns out!

Yes, I used an LED controller. It comes with the programming for the lights pre-programmed into it. In the parts/supplies section at the beginning, I have links to a couple that I bought on Amazon.

Thanks for sharing this info! When I was playing around with the design, I noticed this same thing. The jig I used while soldering puts the strips into a 45 degree angle from the corners, but I forgot to mention this info. Your comment is a great explanation of this, so thanks again for sharing!

Thanks, I'm glad you like it!

I have my GitHub page updated with the extra files for internet time. It's the same link as before: https://github.com/HowDoYouDIY/LED_Clock

Thanks for asking, I forgot to update this Instructable! I do have a working version of the code with internet time. I'll reply to this comment again within the next few days when I get a chance to add that to my GitHub page.

Sorry about the delayed response. Sometimes it could be because the score line is too deep (from more than one pass with the scoring tool) or not deep enough (not enough pressure when scoring.) Sometimes bottles are difficult to start just because they are thick. Also, for some reason it seems like color glass is more difficult to start than clear glass, but should still be possible. If you haven't tried this already, you could try holding the iron in one spot for more time to see if that helps. Sometimes for me when it's particularly difficult, I'll hold the neck of the iron on the bottle rather than the tip. Sometimes this helps, sometimes it doesn't make a difference. Sometimes it forces a random crack.When a crack stops moving, sometimes the bottle needs to rest and cool down. I'll go…

Sorry about the delayed response. Sometimes it could be because the score line is too deep (from more than one pass with the scoring tool) or not deep enough (not enough pressure when scoring.) Sometimes bottles are difficult to start just because they are thick. Also, for some reason it seems like color glass is more difficult to start than clear glass, but should still be possible. If you haven't tried this already, you could try holding the iron in one spot for more time to see if that helps. Sometimes for me when it's particularly difficult, I'll hold the neck of the iron on the bottle rather than the tip. Sometimes this helps, sometimes it doesn't make a difference. Sometimes it forces a random crack.When a crack stops moving, sometimes the bottle needs to rest and cool down. I'll go to the other end of the crack and work from there for a while, or just set the bottle down for a bit and come back to it later. Also, I've noticed that it will always stop moving when it gets back near the start. When it does this, try to gently pull it apart. If it doesn't separate easily, heat it some more then try again. After a few tries like this it will pop apart easily.I hope this is helpful!

That's really good info to add, and also important. When I was planning this Instructable I was trying to think of a good way to explain this, but forgot to include it in. Your description/explanation is much better than what I could come up with. If it's ok with you, I would like to add your wording to this Instructable (giving credit to you, of course.) Thanks for sharing!

Thanks, I'm glad you like it!

It will probably take a while before I get to that, but that is a great idea to include with this Instructables series! I've been having some trouble getting good close-up shots with the detail I want to show for some of my attempts. The images either ends up dark or there are too many reflections in the solder joints to show what I want to show. It's been working out good for what I've done so far, but the metal is so reflective that it's been hard to see the fine details of the actual solder joints.But yeah, this is a great idea! I'll continue working on getting good examples to show. Thanks for sharing your idea!

That's interesting, I didn't know that! If you have any pictures of the lamp I would love to see it.

Thanks! I feel that it helps to show that everything doesn't always go as planned, but that shouldn't necessarily mean that you should stop trying.

You're welcome! I would recommend trying this technique out on some practice bottles. It's easy, but takes a little bit to get a feel for it. I would love to hear back on how it works out for you!

That's a good idea!

😳 now you have me feeling that too

That's a really good question. It took me a while to figure out why they wouldn't release. I tried heating the whole bottle, freezing it, none of that helped. Even though the cracks go all of the way through the glass, they aren't perfectly straight through the glass. The wavy cracks interlock the pieces together, kind of like the teeth of a gear. I hope I explained that well.

I'm glad it was helpful! Jewelry made from sea glass you be awesome!

Thanks!

That looks awesome! It kind of looks like the shape of Superman's emblem. Thanks for sharing the picture!

I added about 22.5 cubic feet (about 0.83 cubic yards) of dirt into it.

It wasn't cheap. The materials that I used for this added up to a bit over $300. I think that a cool, cheap DIY version could be made with scrapped pallets. I don't know how well that type of wood would hold up over time as a garden bed, but it could be interesting.

Thanks! I would love to see how yours turns out!

That's awesome! It would be cool to see how it looks!

You're right, "drilling a pilot hole" is a better description. I've updated my Instructable. Thanks for the feedback! And I'm glad you like the garden bed!

That's a great idea! I've been thinking that same thing. I still need to research home composting methods, but I'll definitely make an Instructable about it. Thanks for sharing your idea!

That's an awesome tip! I didn't think about putting anything on the grass before adding the dirt, but I like the advice. And I'm glad you mentioned about the tape. That's something I can see being easy to overlook.

Thanks! I'm glad you like it!

Thanks! I would love to see how yours turn out if you decide to build some!

I apologize for any confusion that my links have caused, I had a hard time finding the exact screws on Amazon that I actually used. The ones I used are designed for exterior use (decks, fences, etc.) and are ceramic coated. I do appreciate your input on screw types though.

It's a bit overdue, but I just added the code I have to the end of this instructable. It still needs a bit of work, but it should be a good starting point.

I just added the code I have to the end of this instructable. It still needs a bit of work, but it should be a good starting point.

You bet! I'm glad you like it. By the way, the code I posted keeps changing on the page. I think I have it good now, but just to be safe I also have a link to the code on GitHub.

For the whole project I used a few blades, I don't remember how many. I know some boards are tougher than the one I used so that could be. If a utility knife isn't working out well, I would recommend trying a coping saw or a dovetail saw. Something like this should work: https://amzn.to/2PHBXGS

That's a great idea! Using copper tape would open up a lot of options.

I was having the same issue. It would be awesome to be able to just place it in any position, but I ended up making it only work in one specific position. I put marks on the necessary corners to help me place it correctly. All of the other corners just match for appearances. But I do like the idea you have with using the rings like that in each of the corners.I wonder what would work for making the rings?