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Killawhat

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Ex electronics tech, now sales rep living in the snowy region. Always tinkering fixing or building something in the workshop. I play guitar, I fix guitars, I build guitars. Any project that has wood, electronics or music - that's what I'm into.

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    No worries, it's pretty easy to make. Basically just a rack and a slide for the saw which is probably the most time consuming

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    2.54mm=1 inch, 300mm=1 foot. But the measurements I used aren't important. You can make it any size you like. It's the concept of what was done.A rebate I think the US guys call a rabit or lap joint. Have a look at the pictures.

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    I haven't tried it with lacquer's but previous experience says it may make the letters run because of the solvents - That's mainly why I suggested clear film as a protector. Plus it's easy to remove if you change your mind down the track. But try it and see how you go. There is a function in the software to reverse the image. I would suggest if you are going to iron on the image that you print on the used portion of a labels sheet (smooth side), the toner will come off easier when you heat it. My experience when doing circuit boards this way is not all the toner transfers and can leave the image sketchy and jagged. Plus, not everyone has a laser printer, but it's a good suggestion. Using electro chemical etching is way beyond what I'd intended this instructable to be. I think if you were …

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    I haven't tried it with lacquer's but previous experience says it may make the letters run because of the solvents - That's mainly why I suggested clear film as a protector. Plus it's easy to remove if you change your mind down the track. But try it and see how you go. There is a function in the software to reverse the image. I would suggest if you are going to iron on the image that you print on the used portion of a labels sheet (smooth side), the toner will come off easier when you heat it. My experience when doing circuit boards this way is not all the toner transfers and can leave the image sketchy and jagged. Plus, not everyone has a laser printer, but it's a good suggestion. Using electro chemical etching is way beyond what I'd intended this instructable to be. I think if you were going to go through that effort, you might as well contact the makers of the software and have the panel professionally made by them. Even though the software's free and is great as a DIY tool, that's what the software was designed for after all.

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    Thanks, hope you get some use out of it.I'm actually thinking of doing a little update to this as I find better ways of utilising FPD

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    • Cheap Dual 30V/2A Project Power Supply
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  • Very Cheap $30 Miter Saw Stand

    Pretty good idea. For those that don't have a welder, you can get plastic joiners and build a similar frame (they have T's, joiners and corners), it just clips together. And just use countersunk screws to attach the drawer rails. Definitely not as sturdy as welding, but good if you don't own a welder. Maybe a set of wheels on the bottom? It would make it a lot easier to move around the shop. Cheers for sharing.

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  • Cheap Tool Box Organization

    I've been looking for a way to organize metal sliding drawers and nothing really hits the spot. Store bought stuff while it might be easy, costs a tonne and generally doesn't fit the draws so you're left with unused space. Using a piece of MDF and dowels is so cheap and easy and very customizable. In the smaller drawers I'd probably use 3mm (to cut down on in height) but there's some great ideas here. Thanks for sharing!

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    • Build This 5Hz to 400KHz LED Sweep Signal Generator From Kits
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  • Build This 5Hz to 400KHz LED Sweep Signal Generator From Kits

    Thanks for the suggestion audreyobscura. Never even occurred to me to enter it into that particular category! Cheers

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    • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project
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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    Thanks Mate. Try it with the gloss paper. I think you'll have even better results.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I had a bit of a look and there's some V/A meters with a current sensing ring. I think that's the easiest for this sort of application (where you have split rails). I don't think there's an easy way around it other than sensing rings.As for the input voltages before a regulator, they only need to be to 1.5V above the output in most cases. The rest just turns to heat (which is what you get when you go from 19V to a 5V output) ;)But thanks for the heads up on the meters problem. I'll put out a MK2 at some stage!

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    The whole point of using the SMPS from old laptops was to keep the cost down (and to sort of use off "the shelf" parts and modules - so you didn't have to stuff around too much). A 12-0-12V @2A transformer over here runs you about $30 and not much cheaper (with shipping) off ebay. The SMPS were only about $6-7ea at the time, so two came in at half the price of an AC trannie. But the original schematic for the regular board (which is what I posted) suggests using an AC trannie. And yes, in the project I ripped out the rectification off the regulator board and jumped them over (as in the photos). The output caps should provide a small load anyway to stop oscillations. The LM317/337 are pretty good from that standpoint. And yes, you're right - The SMPS do have some higher frequency…

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    The whole point of using the SMPS from old laptops was to keep the cost down (and to sort of use off "the shelf" parts and modules - so you didn't have to stuff around too much). A 12-0-12V @2A transformer over here runs you about $30 and not much cheaper (with shipping) off ebay. The SMPS were only about $6-7ea at the time, so two came in at half the price of an AC trannie. But the original schematic for the regular board (which is what I posted) suggests using an AC trannie. And yes, in the project I ripped out the rectification off the regulator board and jumped them over (as in the photos). The output caps should provide a small load anyway to stop oscillations. The LM317/337 are pretty good from that standpoint. And yes, you're right - The SMPS do have some higher frequency noise, but that's cleaned up pretty well with the linear LM317's (infact a lot of the regular modules clean up noise pretty well if you have a slightly noisy input PS).As for your schematic - it will work and infact this is exactly what I do when I've made other dual supplies with positive only regulator boards. However, I'm not too sure whether you could easily modify the current board to do this (without cutting tracks and making a mess of it).When I get time, I might have another look at the project and see if I can't make it a bit more reliable with the ammeters. I didn't really need current sensing (as it was suppose to be a standalone PS for testing preamps with split supplies). But there wasn't much price difference between just a volt meter and a volt/amp combo at the time. The output switch is in the wrong position too and should be between the volt meter and output (which it isn't and I noted it at the end of the project).

    Yeah that would probably work if you were using two separate regulators (and not the dual PS in this project).I think you're right though. I just had a bit of look at mine, and low and behold mine's doing something similar (if you put a dual load between +/0V/- only one of the ammeters will work at a time. Looking back at the schematic I can see why (it's where the ammeters placed on the 0V). The problem is you can't have the pos ammeter on the positive line or it senses both the pos & neg current (which is what I had problems with when I first constructed it).I'm not too sure whether you could use diodes - I don't think so. Unless you treat the pos and neg sides as two separate PS and put a diode off the pos return to 0V and a separate terminal straight off the 0V for the negative si…

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    Yeah that would probably work if you were using two separate regulators (and not the dual PS in this project).I think you're right though. I just had a bit of look at mine, and low and behold mine's doing something similar (if you put a dual load between +/0V/- only one of the ammeters will work at a time. Looking back at the schematic I can see why (it's where the ammeters placed on the 0V). The problem is you can't have the pos ammeter on the positive line or it senses both the pos & neg current (which is what I had problems with when I first constructed it).I'm not too sure whether you could use diodes - I don't think so. Unless you treat the pos and neg sides as two separate PS and put a diode off the pos return to 0V and a separate terminal straight off the 0V for the negative side.The only way I can see it may work, is to put the ammeters before the actual regulators (and you'll sense some of the quiescent current also).I suppose the simplest solution is not to use ammeters!Thanks for the fault detection.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I thought you said you were running the power for the meters off separate power supplies anyway? That was one of the issues I had in that each meters negative's are connected together and you can't separate them (the negative current sense and negative meter power). That's why the power for each meter needs to be a separate power source so they don't interfere with each other. It's not an issue if you only have one PS, but an issue when you put two together and make a +/- dual supply. It might be possible to do it with diodes, but the small 240AC to 12VDC modules are only about $1.50ea so we're not breaking the bank for two of them.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section 3 again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck m…

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    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section 3 again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck module as they're negatives aren't isolated (which is the whole point of using the AC to DC PS). Let me know how you go.

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck mod…

    see more »

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck module as they're negatives aren't isolated (which is the whole point of using the AC to DC PS). Let me know how you go.

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  • Homemade Bullerjan Stove

    Cheer Mate.I suppose you if you were concerned with weight, you can always remove the bricks before you move it? Seems like having a trolley saved you a lot of hassle moving it around. Now I'm wondering whether it would be possible to make it modular by using some threaded rod to keep all the panels together and a seal in-between the panels? Hmmm.

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  • Homemade Bullerjan Stove

    There's an easy way to clean fire place glass easily and you use what it produces! Grab some of the ash from the fire place, a little vinegar and water and rub it on the glass. The soot comes right off!

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  • Killawhat commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Thanks, that makes sense. I'd planned to do something similar on a guitar if I can get enough depth to it.

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  • Killawhat commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Great looking project. Must have taken a while to piece together! Do you have a photo of the gate tapes attaching to the pots? You said you used plastic tube, but how did you couple them together?

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  • Etch a Circuit Board With Kitchen Supplies

    I've used transfer paper to make boards myself for years when I need them (although I still use ferric chloride to etch). A couple of things to make the process better: - Before transferring the image onto the board give it a clean with steel wool and an abrasive cleaner (like ajax) to shine it up. Dry it and then use a non stick cleaner (like your acetone, mentholated spirits or grease and wax remover)- Put the iron on the board for a few seconds to preheat it, then lay the transfer on the board with the iron on top to heat the whole thing. The transfer will stick better- Once the board is etched and clean, spray a coat of lacquer over to protect the tracks from corroding (you can generally buy a can of it at the local electronics store) and will last you for years.

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    No sorry. I never got around to it. If you have any questions about it I'm happy to answer.

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  • Killawhat commented on steparak's instructable CC/CV Power Supply

    Yeah it all depends on the project. If I'm making something larger, I generally try and include the transformer inside. But a lot of the little projects that require less power (or if I run out of 240V sockets), I generally use wall worts where I can. They're pretty cheap these days too and just makes the build a little quicker and safer.Although I do tend to buy a lot of 240vac/12vdc modules (they're only about $1.50ea). I use them all the time where I need some low 12Vdc power or need to isolate power supplies (like powering meters).

    I'm amazed you fit all that in the tiny box - well done! Laptop supplies are cheap and a great way to power these types of module boards. It might have been better to save a bit of space and just have a DC input from the laptop supply to the box and save wiring up 230V inside. I just got a couple of the LCD buck/boost modules as they were dirt cheap and wanted to see how they'd go (not that I need any more power supplies)!

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  • I liked the Family Guy version - The Six Dollar Man. We have the technology (clunking with used parts), we have the money...but we just don't want to spend it.Nice project BTW

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  • Looks like a pretty easy build. I haven't really got the space at the moment for something like this. Have you got any plans for utilising the space under the benches?

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  • Yeah, initially they generally do still well. But after a few weeks, sometimes they come loose. Not sure why. Sometimes when I'm using them (even on painted surfaces), every 12" or so I'll put a but of electrical tape over it and a staple to hold it in place permanently. Just have to be careful not to press too hard and put the staple through the track.For the power supplies, if you look on ebay for something like "ac dc switch 12v module" you can get a 240V ac to 12v dc board. They're generally only a few bucks each. The only thing is your have to wire them to 240V. 12V laptop power supplies are also pretty cheap as you're probably only looking for something about 1-2 amps. Essentially, the modules are the guts of laptop tranies anyway that they sell off cheap due to crack…

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    Yeah, initially they generally do still well. But after a few weeks, sometimes they come loose. Not sure why. Sometimes when I'm using them (even on painted surfaces), every 12" or so I'll put a but of electrical tape over it and a staple to hold it in place permanently. Just have to be careful not to press too hard and put the staple through the track.For the power supplies, if you look on ebay for something like "ac dc switch 12v module" you can get a 240V ac to 12v dc board. They're generally only a few bucks each. The only thing is your have to wire them to 240V. 12V laptop power supplies are also pretty cheap as you're probably only looking for something about 1-2 amps. Essentially, the modules are the guts of laptop tranies anyway that they sell off cheap due to cracked cases or broken leads, but the guts still work.Yes you can buy one big one, but generally the price goes way up the bigger they get. That's why I find buying a few smaller ones (1-2A) will work out around the same price and you can plug them into a standard socket and move them around as needed. I forgot the amount of times I've reconfigured the workshop and the last time I rewired all the fluoro lights to 240V plugs and wired up the switches with 240V plug sockets strategically placed.Happy hunting.

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  • Great idea. I probably would have given route a coat of clear to help the LED strip stick better. The adhesive they use seems to come unstuck after a while. Personally, I would have routed out the back of the timber an used a cheap laptop power supply or AC/DC switch mode module per light and run an AC lead off it. Then you can plug it in anywhere. I thought the sanded plexi glass was a great cheap idea for frosted covers!

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  • I've got something similar in my shop, except I put a thin back on it to stop stuff falling out behind. I've got them mounted high so I can put my power tool cases above and out of the way.

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  • After 25 odd years of being at it, I don't think anyone will be 100% organized. I think the best anyone can hope for is that everything you have has a spot to call home, try and group like tools together, keep things off the floor and cord out of the way. New things come into the shop at various points whether it be via way of a new tool purchase, new home made jig or tool. Having a somewhat flexible storage system always helps.There's so many different ways to tool and workshop storage, one system doesn't works all the time and multiple systems are generally the key to good storage. Whatever works for you is the right system. Thanks for sharing.

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  • Cool project, I like the spirit of the build but I was cringing at certain parts! The thing is, you can make it a perfectly playable guitar if you changed a couple of things:- You need to have a radius over the whole of the fretboard - 8-12" radius, not just taper it at the sides. Cut your fingerboard slots before you taper and glue it to the neck. Or, just make a cross cut jig if it's already tapered.- And do a bit more shaping of the back of that neck.- Laminating the direction you did and the way the plywood is laminated itself, I think it would stop it twisting but I'm sure there's going to be a significant forward bow once it's strung up. So installing the truss rod is a necessity. There's some easy to install two way truss rods these days (about $10) that you just route a chann…

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    Cool project, I like the spirit of the build but I was cringing at certain parts! The thing is, you can make it a perfectly playable guitar if you changed a couple of things:- You need to have a radius over the whole of the fretboard - 8-12" radius, not just taper it at the sides. Cut your fingerboard slots before you taper and glue it to the neck. Or, just make a cross cut jig if it's already tapered.- And do a bit more shaping of the back of that neck.- Laminating the direction you did and the way the plywood is laminated itself, I think it would stop it twisting but I'm sure there's going to be a significant forward bow once it's strung up. So installing the truss rod is a necessity. There's some easy to install two way truss rods these days (about $10) that you just route a channel and install. If you want to keep it recycled then thread a 1/4 steel rod. But then you'll have to make a jig that curves for your router to do the channel.- The wire looks way too thick for a pickup wind. It works, but generally 42-44 gauge wire is used. I'd also suggest to put something like thin plastic around the screws before winding. Or you could make a bobbin out of laminating a plastic chopping board or similar. At the end, just spray it with some shellac or lacquer instead of the hot glue gun.- Lastly, the intonation is way out on that guitar. I reckon you'd be better attaching some steel tube, notching it for the bridge. Also, angle it back a bit on the bass side which should help with intonationThe pickguard on the table saw was cool looking, but I would have routed the control channels from the top and used the left over vinyl with the label as the pickguard.Keep it up!

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  • Very nice. I've been wanting to build something like this for a while - just a longer version. Last time I took some acrylic up to plastics supplier to have it bent, cost me $20 per bend!

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  • Killawhat commented on thenetdog's instructable Parts Workbench

    Pretty good idea. I don't think it works so well for the way I work as I generally like tools close by working with timber than parts. But I can see this working well with electronics enthusiasts. If you use aluminium angle instead of timber between those tackle boxes, you'd probably get one of two more in there as well. It will add to the cost, but you gain extra storage. Nice project - thanks for sharing.

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    • DVD/CD Cabinet Mod to Maximise Storage
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    • Cheap DIY DDS Function/Signal Generator
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  • Actually, it never came in a case (unless you wanted to buy it in a small box at an inflated price), but yes basically chucking it in a bench case as I explained. A lot quicker buying the module than spending even more to designing it yourself.

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    Ok here you go, this was the LCD one. As I said, still haven't finished the other guy.https://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-DIY-DDS-Fun...

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  • Cool project! Could I suggest, it's probably not a great idea to split the ply with a chisel. You have a crude bandsaw/jigsaw setup so why not make a fence and rip the ply in half using that? Save yourself a lot of headache if you crack it with a chisel and you'd get a better finished piece with less effort.Not sure why you ripped the battery pack apart. If it was still working you could have attached it directly. If the batteries were stuffed, it would have been less hassle to just get a replacement pack. Of course if you already had the Li ion batteries around then making a new pack makes sense. Personally, I've tried to import Li ion batteries into Australia off ebay and I'm sure they get caught at customs and never delivered. Hence why I said it's probably a better idea to just buy a …

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    Cool project! Could I suggest, it's probably not a great idea to split the ply with a chisel. You have a crude bandsaw/jigsaw setup so why not make a fence and rip the ply in half using that? Save yourself a lot of headache if you crack it with a chisel and you'd get a better finished piece with less effort.Not sure why you ripped the battery pack apart. If it was still working you could have attached it directly. If the batteries were stuffed, it would have been less hassle to just get a replacement pack. Of course if you already had the Li ion batteries around then making a new pack makes sense. Personally, I've tried to import Li ion batteries into Australia off ebay and I'm sure they get caught at customs and never delivered. Hence why I said it's probably a better idea to just buy a battery pack instead of individual batteries.As you said, the aluminium foil you're using needs to be grounded. So unless it's in one piece you're going to have to attach them together somehow. You can get copper tape that you can actually solder (in lots of different sizes) and doesn't really cost much more (if any) than the aluminium foil tape. But if that's what you got laying around, it does the job. Just make sure they conduct between the laters.But the finished result looks great!

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    I suppose I could. The DDS gen I made works a treat (and pretty accurate too). I'm still in the process of building the other one. Trying to find time while the grand kiddies are over and stopping them from buggering off with components or not to touch the soldering iron is a chore unto itself!

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    I tried a few different count meter kits. The one you listed I tried as well and had issues - cheap trimmer cap for adjustment and wasn't real stable. There's a lot of other modules on ebay as well that aren't really suited (fine for MHz counting). The one I ended up with was a kit off ebay that had a detachable LED screen and worked first go, no issues (has EZM electronics studio on th eboard). Also paired that with a sig gen kit off ebay and just replaced the onboard pots with a board of pots for the front panel. Changed the onboard switching to rotary switches for the front panels. Was cheap too - about $5-6.Of course for about $20-30 you can get a full DDS module with LCD screen and push button settings. These kits are great too.

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  • I've been toying with an idea like this myself for an electronics toolbox and a toolbox for guitar stuff. Tackle boxes just don't do it for me (as they're not wide enough) and drawer system's just take up too much room when all you're basically storing is screwdrivers and files. Thanks for the idea and sharing.

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  • Great idea to use leftover ply wood for the frame and ingenious use of weed matting for the back. Not too sure whether the foam matress would have too much effect as it's quite dense. You wants something with air pockets in it (like rockwool or similar). Also, sit them off the walls a little bit more.

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  • Killawhat commented on dankly1's instructable Cheap DIY Front Panels

    Wouldn't it have been easier just to copy the design to clear laser or inkjet paper? I thought you were going to use the toner. I used to use old label backings and print toner on them for circuit boards by printing out a reverse image of the design onto the smooth backing, heat up the circuit board with an iron, then place the circuit design facedown and iron it on. I'd imagine you could do the same thing here and just put either a sheet of clear over it or spray it with some clear varnish.

    You can buy adhesive backed A4 clear printer paper, either for laser or inkjet (get the right one for your printer). Avery do some and come in a pack of 25 I believe. And if you're going to put a clear film over the top anyway it shouldn't make much difference if you use inkjet paper as the ink dries pretty quick onto the printer paper and doesn't smudge.The trick with transferring toner is to get the surface hot, then put the transfer on and heat that for a 30 sec or so to melt the toner. It also helps if what you initially transfer it onto has a slippery surface (like the backing to adhesive labels)

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  • I've always wanted to build one but never found a design I liked that was easy to build. I'd always imagined using some sort of angled steel as it's quite strong. I like this one, but I'm not too sure about the angled clamp on top. Because of the rounded edges of the angled steel, I think it should be sharper so the metal has a cleaner edge when bending. But I do like the idea of the springs under it! It might be a better idea for the line up adjustment to have slots for the bolts through the 2x4 and adjust them that way instead of on the angled clamp. Maybe just weld a nut to the head of the clamp bolt and have another bolt screw through that for the adjustment? But nice instrucable - given me some great ideas.

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  • It will be something that happens over time and usage. See how you go. What I probably would have done was just put a copper strip on top for the positive and ground all of the negative side to the back chassis.

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  • Nice instructable! Just a couple of things I noticed. Although having the ends exposed for cooling, it will probably draw in dust as well making the plexi dirty (which scratches easy if you try and clean it). Maybe using a small panel of glass might be a better option? Then again, I suppose you could just replace the plexi, it's fairly cheap. With the bus wires you use, again with the heat it may shrink the insulation and cause a short on the back chassis. Maybe a better option would be to use copper tape over some left over plastic edging and solder to that. Or you could use some small strips of PCB board, silicon it to the back chassis and solder to that. All up, cool project

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    • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50
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  • Nice project. To fix your template you stuffed - you can use some wood filling bog which you can get from auto or hardware stores (I think you call it bondo in the states). Just mix it up with the hardener, mold and let it set. Then using a file.chisel to shape - good as new. If you ever decide to make another, you can get fluorescent epoxy that you could fill the gaps on the top and looks cool in itself when you level it off.

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  • I think that might be a question for the instructables team. When I'm downloading PDF's from this site, I just click the "Download" button at the top of the page (with the download PDF symbol). I'm using firefox as a browser and just tried it with my instructable and it came up no worries with a PDF extension to download.

    > something i had in mind of making (one day)Well, this one doesn't take long at all to knock up - maybe a saturday afternoon with a few tinnies!> I had some difficulty in fully understanding the operational aspects so would be very good to see a video demonstrating a vertical and horizontal cuts in both directions.I'll do a video, but it will take me a little while to getting around to it. But basically you just take the saw and slide out and rotate them saw 90 deg and then run the caddy along the top edge of the sheet to do horizonal cuts. Yes you'll eventually end up with a heap of sideward blade cuts through the caddy. I did notice that afterwards. What I'd suggest when making this is to offset the saw on the base and do a box cut around the caddy to cut the centre out of it. I …

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    > something i had in mind of making (one day)Well, this one doesn't take long at all to knock up - maybe a saturday afternoon with a few tinnies!> I had some difficulty in fully understanding the operational aspects so would be very good to see a video demonstrating a vertical and horizontal cuts in both directions.I'll do a video, but it will take me a little while to getting around to it. But basically you just take the saw and slide out and rotate them saw 90 deg and then run the caddy along the top edge of the sheet to do horizonal cuts. Yes you'll eventually end up with a heap of sideward blade cuts through the caddy. I did notice that afterwards. What I'd suggest when making this is to offset the saw on the base and do a box cut around the caddy to cut the centre out of it. I basically centered the saw blade in mine. If you do cut the centre out, you might have to make the caddy a bit wider for extra side support to help the caddy stay in shape.No, I left the manual switch alone for now so I could operate it once I have the saw is in place. However I did have plans to put an on/off switch box with a quick stop button and power point on the unit somewhere so I could plug the saw in and fix the manual button on. When that's done, I'll probably add a handle to the base as well to make it easier and also connect it up to a shop vac as well at some point.And of course you could rotate the saw and run it upwards (much like doing conventional cuts) - just requires a lot more effort on my behalf! I chose to do it top to bottom because the weight of the saw will help while doing the cuts (similarly the way it's done on commercial units). The down side is the handles reversed. But because the saw base is square, you can run the saw anyway you like, up/down, left/right (if you're left handed). I don't find it too difficult with the saw at the top - I just use my pinky for the power button. And remember, a 1200mm sheet is only about 300mm off the floor so the blade will start at about 1500mm off the floor - may be high for vertically challenged people, but I'm 1.8m.

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  • Your right, I could have sworn it had a title when I put it up there. I've fixed it and done a quick edit. Hope you enjoyed the instructable and got some ideas

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  • Sorry, not too sure. I think that's more to do with the instructable site. I just write the content, upload pictures. It's all created online - Instructables do the rest. I'll look into it with them. Glad you found it useful.

    Glad you found it useful. I don't have a lot of room, so any tools I can get out of the way is great. It's super quick and easy to build as well.

    Just to confirm, you'd like to see some cuts of the machine being used? Or you'd like to see me cutting the materials up for construction of the machine? If it's the first, as I said at the end, I'll probably do a small video using it when I get chance. Let me know

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  • Yeah, the actual frame is only 1200mm wide if you take the supports off (which extend it to 2400mm). Just flips down from the ceiling. But you could mount it to the wall as well. Currently, I don't have any wall space in my shed, so it had to flip down from the ceiling. You might notice from the cover photo that it flips down in front of one of my benches and then out of the way when I don't need it.

    I'll see what I can do

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    • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon
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  • Unfortunately I wouldn't follow your advice as it is quite dangerous what you're suggesting. The reason being is that there is no protection from your mat to ground (it's a dead short). So if something goes wrong working on mains voltage gear - poof - you're dead. Yes I know you said don't work on live equipment - sometimes it's unavoidable. The fact remains - it's dangerous what you propose.What you should do is connect your mat to ground via a 1M resistor. The wrist strap should also be connected to this ground point. Then go from that ground point to your mains earth. Much safer and the correct way of eliminating static discharge.Here's a link - have a read on how to do it correctly (sorry won't let me put direct links in) Search esdjournal for grounds/fsg.htm

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  • Killawhat commented on notsosharp's instructable A Portable Panel Saw

    Thanks for the ideas. Like most T-track and the like, hard to locate in Australia. That's OK, the actual design has given me an idea of doing it another way before I build my panel saw. A much easier design than some I've seen with rollers on round tube (more traditional panel saw designs). I like the idea of it being portable (I was going to have mine swing down from the ceiling in the shed and store it between the rafters). I might look at another way of doing those side supports so they're even more portable and fold up together. I'm a bit over struggling to cut 8x4' sheets on the table saw! (even though I have a little extra room in the shed now.One improvement I can see is adding an adjustment for the alignment of the saw blade. I can't imagine that anyone would get the saw blade 100…

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    Thanks for the ideas. Like most T-track and the like, hard to locate in Australia. That's OK, the actual design has given me an idea of doing it another way before I build my panel saw. A much easier design than some I've seen with rollers on round tube (more traditional panel saw designs). I like the idea of it being portable (I was going to have mine swing down from the ceiling in the shed and store it between the rafters). I might look at another way of doing those side supports so they're even more portable and fold up together. I'm a bit over struggling to cut 8x4' sheets on the table saw! (even though I have a little extra room in the shed now.One improvement I can see is adding an adjustment for the alignment of the saw blade. I can't imagine that anyone would get the saw blade 100% square with the frame. Otherwise you'll be tearing out the edge of panels (be a problem with Malemine). You could just have a pivot on one edge and an adjustment on the opposite edge.As David R asked if you could rotate the saw base. I've seen a few designs where the base is clamped in and you just pull it out, rotate it and clamp it back in. I've also seen one using a large Lazy Susan bearing with the saw blade cutting in between the inner ring of the bearing. Although to cut sheets horizontally I reckon you'd need some rollers on the base supports. You could make them easy with some dowel and plastic plumbing pipe over them for the rollers. Can easily replace them if they wear.+1 for the power cord to go over the top.

    Thanks for the info. The local aluminium suppliers around Canberra are a bit scarce with these sorts of profiles and Carbitec pulled up stumps a couple of years ago here (even when they were here, you had to wait as they didn't carry a lot other than router bits and a few tools). And these companies only seem to do 1220mm length (maybe they do longer if requested). But, always handy to order online if I get stuck. I night use it to replace what I have on the table saw currently.

    The track systems a good, sturdy and light weight way to go. Unfortunately, pretty expensive here in Oz. I reckon I could get hold of some steel C channel and it could work similarly and probably wouldn't increase the weight too much - and depending on price. That's where the T track profile works well, keeping it's rigidity over long lengths and not flexing too much.As for folding, I'm sure you could get those top supports to fold up and tuck away inside the unit. Might have to make them a little less wide and maybe make the main unit a little wider to accommodate. I think if they were only 1200mm long, it wouldn't make much difference as you really only need the support more-so where you're cutting. I'm sure a 2.4m span would be enough for even 3.6m sheets. But hey, you build the unit f…

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    The track systems a good, sturdy and light weight way to go. Unfortunately, pretty expensive here in Oz. I reckon I could get hold of some steel C channel and it could work similarly and probably wouldn't increase the weight too much - and depending on price. That's where the T track profile works well, keeping it's rigidity over long lengths and not flexing too much.As for folding, I'm sure you could get those top supports to fold up and tuck away inside the unit. Might have to make them a little less wide and maybe make the main unit a little wider to accommodate. I think if they were only 1200mm long, it wouldn't make much difference as you really only need the support more-so where you're cutting. I'm sure a 2.4m span would be enough for even 3.6m sheets. But hey, you build the unit for your purpose and it fits your purpose. Which is what it's all about!I did have a question though. It wasn't really clear how you did your counter weight system. Any chance of a picture with that system disassembled (or maybe a sketch)? Couldn't quite picture how you did it. I seen the counter weight slides in the support post, there's a wire attached to the saw over a pulley to the weight. How does that second pulley work?

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  • Cool idea. I've been using some 100x50 box aluminum with the top cut off and some 50x100x5mm wood ends for stomp boxes. Depending on what you're putting in the wood box, RF signals could be a problem. If that's the case there's some conductive metal paint you can buy to paint on the inside as a shielding (you can get it from most guitar supply places - it's what they use to shield guitar cavities with). Definitely a quick and cheap way of getting a project up and going.

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  • Exactly. I'm currently moving the workshop around and I'll be adding another similar one to under the bench for the power tools.

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  • Hope you found it useful - Cheers

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