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Killawhat

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Ex electronics tech, now sales rep living in the snowy region. Always tinkering fixing or building something in the workshop. I play guitar, I fix guitars, I build guitars. Any project that has wood, electronics or music - that's what I'm into.

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  • Folding Extension Cord Organizer!

    I built something like this myself a few years back. Again, with a bit of inspiration from Pinterest! I ended up just using 12mm ply scraps. The main thing with these is that wall mounting bracket - it has to be strong, very strong to hold the weight when upright and loading the extension leads. I like the inclusion of the swivel hooks which was something I never thought of. I ended up hard mounting mine in reverse and they stay put no worries.

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  • Homemade Bandsaw by DIY Enthusiast

    I seen your comment and realised you may have misinterpreted my comment and I might have come off sounding like an arsehole, which wasn't my intention. The comment of cutting into beer drinking time was more of a joking comment. Time is precious and I try and use it wisely vs cost. I suppose the older you get the more you seem to value your time and what you put it towards.

    You can see a bit of my workshop here when I was building this https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Shop-Built-Flip-...Most of the larger cuts had to be done outside before I built this.

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  • Homemade Bandsaw by DIY Enthusiast

    I like to build tools as well. While I can applaud the build, I don't know if personally I'd go to that much trouble for a small bandsaw when you can pick up a new one that size for about $150. That time would cut into drinking time. You should have made a bigger one - Those buggers go for thousands! But a great build non the less, well done. I'll have to check out some of your other builds.

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    Great to hear. Yeah I think if you use a smooth premium paper to print on, it comes out better than using standard paper - which seems to be a little bumpy when you put sticky film over the top.

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  • Killawhat followed Home Theater, BBQ & Grilling, Backyard, Cleaning and 20 others channel
  • Shop Organization Tips and Practices

    I've thought of doing something like this on a smaller scale for things I use all the time. The only thing that puts me off is the dust collected on the tools. Generally I've got a few different types of tools and they get placed in different area's whether it be toolboxes, drawers or racking. Car tools in one shed along with mowers, chainsaws, fuels, fencing gear etc, wood working tools in another shed with a quick access tool box for anything I need mobile (a few handtools, measuring devices, small box screws & nails, ratchet drivers & drills), then all the electronics stuff inside. There's also a toolbox for guitar setup tools and parts. Some of the tools are double ups and over lap, but it's worth it for the convenience instead of going out into one shed to get something for a…

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    I've thought of doing something like this on a smaller scale for things I use all the time. The only thing that puts me off is the dust collected on the tools. Generally I've got a few different types of tools and they get placed in different area's whether it be toolboxes, drawers or racking. Car tools in one shed along with mowers, chainsaws, fuels, fencing gear etc, wood working tools in another shed with a quick access tool box for anything I need mobile (a few handtools, measuring devices, small box screws & nails, ratchet drivers & drills), then all the electronics stuff inside. There's also a toolbox for guitar setup tools and parts. Some of the tools are double ups and over lap, but it's worth it for the convenience instead of going out into one shed to get something for another.But I like the idea of mobile storage. If you have a drill press, put all your drill and driver bits there, router table - put all your router bits there. Makes sense if you have the room.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I couldn't find any spec's from the module sellers. However if you look up the datasheet for the regulators (LM317 or LM337) at max, the typical load regulation is 0.5% of output voltage with a 10uF output cap. Obviously, the higher the output voltage the more noise is introduced. But regulators are are generally pretty quiet.

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    No worries, it's pretty easy to make. Basically just a rack and a slide for the saw which is probably the most time consuming

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    2.54mm=1 inch, 300mm=1 foot. But the measurements I used aren't important. You can make it any size you like. It's the concept of what was done.A rebate I think the US guys call a rabit or lap joint. Have a look at the pictures.

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    I haven't tried it with lacquer's but previous experience says it may make the letters run because of the solvents - That's mainly why I suggested clear film as a protector. Plus it's easy to remove if you change your mind down the track. But try it and see how you go. There is a function in the software to reverse the image. I would suggest if you are going to iron on the image that you print on the used portion of a labels sheet (smooth side), the toner will come off easier when you heat it. My experience when doing circuit boards this way is not all the toner transfers and can leave the image sketchy and jagged. Plus, not everyone has a laser printer, but it's a good suggestion. Using electro chemical etching is way beyond what I'd intended this instructable to be. I think if you were …

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    I haven't tried it with lacquer's but previous experience says it may make the letters run because of the solvents - That's mainly why I suggested clear film as a protector. Plus it's easy to remove if you change your mind down the track. But try it and see how you go. There is a function in the software to reverse the image. I would suggest if you are going to iron on the image that you print on the used portion of a labels sheet (smooth side), the toner will come off easier when you heat it. My experience when doing circuit boards this way is not all the toner transfers and can leave the image sketchy and jagged. Plus, not everyone has a laser printer, but it's a good suggestion. Using electro chemical etching is way beyond what I'd intended this instructable to be. I think if you were going to go through that effort, you might as well contact the makers of the software and have the panel professionally made by them. Even though the software's free and is great as a DIY tool, that's what the software was designed for after all.

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    Thanks, hope you get some use out of it.I'm actually thinking of doing a little update to this as I find better ways of utilising FPD

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    • Cheap Dual 30V/2A Project Power Supply
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  • Very Cheap $30 Miter Saw Stand

    Pretty good idea. For those that don't have a welder, you can get plastic joiners and build a similar frame (they have T's, joiners and corners), it just clips together. And just use countersunk screws to attach the drawer rails. Definitely not as sturdy as welding, but good if you don't own a welder. Maybe a set of wheels on the bottom? It would make it a lot easier to move around the shop. Cheers for sharing.

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  • Cheap Tool Box Organization

    I've been looking for a way to organize metal sliding drawers and nothing really hits the spot. Store bought stuff while it might be easy, costs a tonne and generally doesn't fit the draws so you're left with unused space. Using a piece of MDF and dowels is so cheap and easy and very customizable. In the smaller drawers I'd probably use 3mm (to cut down on in height) but there's some great ideas here. Thanks for sharing!

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    • Build This 5Hz to 400KHz LED Sweep Signal Generator From Kits
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  • Build This 5Hz to 400KHz LED Sweep Signal Generator From Kits

    Thanks for the suggestion audreyobscura. Never even occurred to me to enter it into that particular category! Cheers

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    • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project
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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    Thanks Mate. Try it with the gloss paper. I think you'll have even better results.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I had a bit of a look and there's some V/A meters with a current sensing ring. I think that's the easiest for this sort of application (where you have split rails). I don't think there's an easy way around it other than sensing rings.As for the input voltages before a regulator, they only need to be to 1.5V above the output in most cases. The rest just turns to heat (which is what you get when you go from 19V to a 5V output) ;)But thanks for the heads up on the meters problem. I'll put out a MK2 at some stage!

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    The whole point of using the SMPS from old laptops was to keep the cost down (and to sort of use off "the shelf" parts and modules - so you didn't have to stuff around too much). A 12-0-12V @2A transformer over here runs you about $30 and not much cheaper (with shipping) off ebay. The SMPS were only about $6-7ea at the time, so two came in at half the price of an AC trannie. But the original schematic for the regular board (which is what I posted) suggests using an AC trannie. And yes, in the project I ripped out the rectification off the regulator board and jumped them over (as in the photos). The output caps should provide a small load anyway to stop oscillations. The LM317/337 are pretty good from that standpoint. And yes, you're right - The SMPS do have some higher frequency…

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    The whole point of using the SMPS from old laptops was to keep the cost down (and to sort of use off "the shelf" parts and modules - so you didn't have to stuff around too much). A 12-0-12V @2A transformer over here runs you about $30 and not much cheaper (with shipping) off ebay. The SMPS were only about $6-7ea at the time, so two came in at half the price of an AC trannie. But the original schematic for the regular board (which is what I posted) suggests using an AC trannie. And yes, in the project I ripped out the rectification off the regulator board and jumped them over (as in the photos). The output caps should provide a small load anyway to stop oscillations. The LM317/337 are pretty good from that standpoint. And yes, you're right - The SMPS do have some higher frequency noise, but that's cleaned up pretty well with the linear LM317's (infact a lot of the regular modules clean up noise pretty well if you have a slightly noisy input PS).As for your schematic - it will work and infact this is exactly what I do when I've made other dual supplies with positive only regulator boards. However, I'm not too sure whether you could easily modify the current board to do this (without cutting tracks and making a mess of it).When I get time, I might have another look at the project and see if I can't make it a bit more reliable with the ammeters. I didn't really need current sensing (as it was suppose to be a standalone PS for testing preamps with split supplies). But there wasn't much price difference between just a volt meter and a volt/amp combo at the time. The output switch is in the wrong position too and should be between the volt meter and output (which it isn't and I noted it at the end of the project).

    Yeah that would probably work if you were using two separate regulators (and not the dual PS in this project).I think you're right though. I just had a bit of look at mine, and low and behold mine's doing something similar (if you put a dual load between +/0V/- only one of the ammeters will work at a time. Looking back at the schematic I can see why (it's where the ammeters placed on the 0V). The problem is you can't have the pos ammeter on the positive line or it senses both the pos & neg current (which is what I had problems with when I first constructed it).I'm not too sure whether you could use diodes - I don't think so. Unless you treat the pos and neg sides as two separate PS and put a diode off the pos return to 0V and a separate terminal straight off the 0V for the negative si…

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    Yeah that would probably work if you were using two separate regulators (and not the dual PS in this project).I think you're right though. I just had a bit of look at mine, and low and behold mine's doing something similar (if you put a dual load between +/0V/- only one of the ammeters will work at a time. Looking back at the schematic I can see why (it's where the ammeters placed on the 0V). The problem is you can't have the pos ammeter on the positive line or it senses both the pos & neg current (which is what I had problems with when I first constructed it).I'm not too sure whether you could use diodes - I don't think so. Unless you treat the pos and neg sides as two separate PS and put a diode off the pos return to 0V and a separate terminal straight off the 0V for the negative side.The only way I can see it may work, is to put the ammeters before the actual regulators (and you'll sense some of the quiescent current also).I suppose the simplest solution is not to use ammeters!Thanks for the fault detection.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I thought you said you were running the power for the meters off separate power supplies anyway? That was one of the issues I had in that each meters negative's are connected together and you can't separate them (the negative current sense and negative meter power). That's why the power for each meter needs to be a separate power source so they don't interfere with each other. It's not an issue if you only have one PS, but an issue when you put two together and make a +/- dual supply. It might be possible to do it with diodes, but the small 240AC to 12VDC modules are only about $1.50ea so we're not breaking the bank for two of them.

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  • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section 3 again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck m…

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    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section 3 again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck module as they're negatives aren't isolated (which is the whole point of using the AC to DC PS). Let me know how you go.

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck mod…

    see more »

    I'd be betting you've connected the meters up wrong. Have a look at the wiring diagram in section again. Notice where the volts/amps meters are connected on the 0V line. I'm sure I had the same issue when I first connected the meters up (although it's been a few years since I built this). Draw out your wiring and think of it as two separate power supplies when connecting the meters (i.e +15V/0V, 0V/-15V). So the volt meters go in parallel, and the ammeters in series (+ to -, even on the negative side of the PS). Also, forget about the output switch for the moment too until you figure out the meter wires. It's most likely the negative side meter that's the problem. And you used separate PS for each meter (240VAC to 12VDC or similar)?? It won't work if you just use something like a buck module as they're negatives aren't isolated (which is the whole point of using the AC to DC PS). Let me know how you go.

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  • Homemade Bullerjan Stove

    Cheer Mate.I suppose you if you were concerned with weight, you can always remove the bricks before you move it? Seems like having a trolley saved you a lot of hassle moving it around. Now I'm wondering whether it would be possible to make it modular by using some threaded rod to keep all the panels together and a seal in-between the panels? Hmmm.

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  • Homemade Bullerjan Stove

    There's an easy way to clean fire place glass easily and you use what it produces! Grab some of the ash from the fire place, a little vinegar and water and rub it on the glass. The soot comes right off!

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  • Killawhat commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Thanks, that makes sense. I'd planned to do something similar on a guitar if I can get enough depth to it.

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  • Killawhat commented on ChristineNZ's instructable SteamPunk Radio
    SteamPunk Radio

    Great looking project. Must have taken a while to piece together! Do you have a photo of the gate tapes attaching to the pots? You said you used plastic tube, but how did you couple them together?

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  • Etch a Circuit Board With Kitchen Supplies

    I've used transfer paper to make boards myself for years when I need them (although I still use ferric chloride to etch). A couple of things to make the process better: - Before transferring the image onto the board give it a clean with steel wool and an abrasive cleaner (like ajax) to shine it up. Dry it and then use a non stick cleaner (like your acetone, mentholated spirits or grease and wax remover)- Put the iron on the board for a few seconds to preheat it, then lay the transfer on the board with the iron on top to heat the whole thing. The transfer will stick better- Once the board is etched and clean, spray a coat of lacquer over to protect the tracks from corroding (you can generally buy a can of it at the local electronics store) and will last you for years.

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  • DIY Shop Built Flip Down Panel Saw for Under $50 in an Afternoon

    No sorry. I never got around to it. If you have any questions about it I'm happy to answer.

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  • Killawhat commented on steparak's instructable CC/CV Power Supply

    I'm amazed you fit all that in the tiny box - well done! Laptop supplies are cheap and a great way to power these types of module boards. It might have been better to save a bit of space and just have a DC input from the laptop supply to the box and save wiring up 230V inside. I just got a couple of the LCD buck/boost modules as they were dirt cheap and wanted to see how they'd go (not that I need any more power supplies)!

    Yeah it all depends on the project. If I'm making something larger, I generally try and include the transformer inside. But a lot of the little projects that require less power (or if I run out of 240V sockets), I generally use wall worts where I can. They're pretty cheap these days too and just makes the build a little quicker and safer.Although I do tend to buy a lot of 240vac/12vdc modules (they're only about $1.50ea). I use them all the time where I need some low 12Vdc power or need to isolate power supplies (like powering meters).

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  • I liked the Family Guy version - The Six Dollar Man. We have the technology (clunking with used parts), we have the money...but we just don't want to spend it.Nice project BTW

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  • Looks like a pretty easy build. I haven't really got the space at the moment for something like this. Have you got any plans for utilising the space under the benches?

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  • Yeah, initially they generally do still well. But after a few weeks, sometimes they come loose. Not sure why. Sometimes when I'm using them (even on painted surfaces), every 12" or so I'll put a but of electrical tape over it and a staple to hold it in place permanently. Just have to be careful not to press too hard and put the staple through the track.For the power supplies, if you look on ebay for something like "ac dc switch 12v module" you can get a 240V ac to 12v dc board. They're generally only a few bucks each. The only thing is your have to wire them to 240V. 12V laptop power supplies are also pretty cheap as you're probably only looking for something about 1-2 amps. Essentially, the modules are the guts of laptop tranies anyway that they sell off cheap due to crack…

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    Yeah, initially they generally do still well. But after a few weeks, sometimes they come loose. Not sure why. Sometimes when I'm using them (even on painted surfaces), every 12" or so I'll put a but of electrical tape over it and a staple to hold it in place permanently. Just have to be careful not to press too hard and put the staple through the track.For the power supplies, if you look on ebay for something like "ac dc switch 12v module" you can get a 240V ac to 12v dc board. They're generally only a few bucks each. The only thing is your have to wire them to 240V. 12V laptop power supplies are also pretty cheap as you're probably only looking for something about 1-2 amps. Essentially, the modules are the guts of laptop tranies anyway that they sell off cheap due to cracked cases or broken leads, but the guts still work.Yes you can buy one big one, but generally the price goes way up the bigger they get. That's why I find buying a few smaller ones (1-2A) will work out around the same price and you can plug them into a standard socket and move them around as needed. I forgot the amount of times I've reconfigured the workshop and the last time I rewired all the fluoro lights to 240V plugs and wired up the switches with 240V plug sockets strategically placed.Happy hunting.

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  • Great idea. I probably would have given route a coat of clear to help the LED strip stick better. The adhesive they use seems to come unstuck after a while. Personally, I would have routed out the back of the timber an used a cheap laptop power supply or AC/DC switch mode module per light and run an AC lead off it. Then you can plug it in anywhere. I thought the sanded plexi glass was a great cheap idea for frosted covers!

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  • I've got something similar in my shop, except I put a thin back on it to stop stuff falling out behind. I've got them mounted high so I can put my power tool cases above and out of the way.

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  • After 25 odd years of being at it, I don't think anyone will be 100% organized. I think the best anyone can hope for is that everything you have has a spot to call home, try and group like tools together, keep things off the floor and cord out of the way. New things come into the shop at various points whether it be via way of a new tool purchase, new home made jig or tool. Having a somewhat flexible storage system always helps.There's so many different ways to tool and workshop storage, one system doesn't works all the time and multiple systems are generally the key to good storage. Whatever works for you is the right system. Thanks for sharing.

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  • Cool project, I like the spirit of the build but I was cringing at certain parts! The thing is, you can make it a perfectly playable guitar if you changed a couple of things:- You need to have a radius over the whole of the fretboard - 8-12" radius, not just taper it at the sides. Cut your fingerboard slots before you taper and glue it to the neck. Or, just make a cross cut jig if it's already tapered.- And do a bit more shaping of the back of that neck.- Laminating the direction you did and the way the plywood is laminated itself, I think it would stop it twisting but I'm sure there's going to be a significant forward bow once it's strung up. So installing the truss rod is a necessity. There's some easy to install two way truss rods these days (about $10) that you just route a chann…

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    Cool project, I like the spirit of the build but I was cringing at certain parts! The thing is, you can make it a perfectly playable guitar if you changed a couple of things:- You need to have a radius over the whole of the fretboard - 8-12" radius, not just taper it at the sides. Cut your fingerboard slots before you taper and glue it to the neck. Or, just make a cross cut jig if it's already tapered.- And do a bit more shaping of the back of that neck.- Laminating the direction you did and the way the plywood is laminated itself, I think it would stop it twisting but I'm sure there's going to be a significant forward bow once it's strung up. So installing the truss rod is a necessity. There's some easy to install two way truss rods these days (about $10) that you just route a channel and install. If you want to keep it recycled then thread a 1/4 steel rod. But then you'll have to make a jig that curves for your router to do the channel.- The wire looks way too thick for a pickup wind. It works, but generally 42-44 gauge wire is used. I'd also suggest to put something like thin plastic around the screws before winding. Or you could make a bobbin out of laminating a plastic chopping board or similar. At the end, just spray it with some shellac or lacquer instead of the hot glue gun.- Lastly, the intonation is way out on that guitar. I reckon you'd be better attaching some steel tube, notching it for the bridge. Also, angle it back a bit on the bass side which should help with intonationThe pickguard on the table saw was cool looking, but I would have routed the control channels from the top and used the left over vinyl with the label as the pickguard.Keep it up!

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  • Very nice. I've been wanting to build something like this for a while - just a longer version. Last time I took some acrylic up to plastics supplier to have it bent, cost me $20 per bend!

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  • Killawhat commented on thenetdog's instructable Parts Workbench

    Pretty good idea. I don't think it works so well for the way I work as I generally like tools close by working with timber than parts. But I can see this working well with electronics enthusiasts. If you use aluminium angle instead of timber between those tackle boxes, you'd probably get one of two more in there as well. It will add to the cost, but you gain extra storage. Nice project - thanks for sharing.

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    • DVD/CD Cabinet Mod to Maximise Storage
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    • Cheap DIY DDS Function/Signal Generator
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  • Actually, it never came in a case (unless you wanted to buy it in a small box at an inflated price), but yes basically chucking it in a bench case as I explained. A lot quicker buying the module than spending even more to designing it yourself.

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    Ok here you go, this was the LCD one. As I said, still haven't finished the other guy.https://www.instructables.com/Cheap-DIY-DDS-Fun...

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  • Cool project! Could I suggest, it's probably not a great idea to split the ply with a chisel. You have a crude bandsaw/jigsaw setup so why not make a fence and rip the ply in half using that? Save yourself a lot of headache if you crack it with a chisel and you'd get a better finished piece with less effort.Not sure why you ripped the battery pack apart. If it was still working you could have attached it directly. If the batteries were stuffed, it would have been less hassle to just get a replacement pack. Of course if you already had the Li ion batteries around then making a new pack makes sense. Personally, I've tried to import Li ion batteries into Australia off ebay and I'm sure they get caught at customs and never delivered. Hence why I said it's probably a better idea to just buy a …

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    Cool project! Could I suggest, it's probably not a great idea to split the ply with a chisel. You have a crude bandsaw/jigsaw setup so why not make a fence and rip the ply in half using that? Save yourself a lot of headache if you crack it with a chisel and you'd get a better finished piece with less effort.Not sure why you ripped the battery pack apart. If it was still working you could have attached it directly. If the batteries were stuffed, it would have been less hassle to just get a replacement pack. Of course if you already had the Li ion batteries around then making a new pack makes sense. Personally, I've tried to import Li ion batteries into Australia off ebay and I'm sure they get caught at customs and never delivered. Hence why I said it's probably a better idea to just buy a battery pack instead of individual batteries.As you said, the aluminium foil you're using needs to be grounded. So unless it's in one piece you're going to have to attach them together somehow. You can get copper tape that you can actually solder (in lots of different sizes) and doesn't really cost much more (if any) than the aluminium foil tape. But if that's what you got laying around, it does the job. Just make sure they conduct between the laters.But the finished result looks great!

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    I suppose I could. The DDS gen I made works a treat (and pretty accurate too). I'm still in the process of building the other one. Trying to find time while the grand kiddies are over and stopping them from buggering off with components or not to touch the soldering iron is a chore unto itself!

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  • Killawhat commented on Milen's instructable RF Signal Generator

    I tried a few different count meter kits. The one you listed I tried as well and had issues - cheap trimmer cap for adjustment and wasn't real stable. There's a lot of other modules on ebay as well that aren't really suited (fine for MHz counting). The one I ended up with was a kit off ebay that had a detachable LED screen and worked first go, no issues (has EZM electronics studio on th eboard). Also paired that with a sig gen kit off ebay and just replaced the onboard pots with a board of pots for the front panel. Changed the onboard switching to rotary switches for the front panels. Was cheap too - about $5-6.Of course for about $20-30 you can get a full DDS module with LCD screen and push button settings. These kits are great too.

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  • I've been toying with an idea like this myself for an electronics toolbox and a toolbox for guitar stuff. Tackle boxes just don't do it for me (as they're not wide enough) and drawer system's just take up too much room when all you're basically storing is screwdrivers and files. Thanks for the idea and sharing.

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  • Great idea to use leftover ply wood for the frame and ingenious use of weed matting for the back. Not too sure whether the foam matress would have too much effect as it's quite dense. You wants something with air pockets in it (like rockwool or similar). Also, sit them off the walls a little bit more.

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  • Killawhat commented on dankly1's instructable Cheap DIY Front Panels

    You can buy adhesive backed A4 clear printer paper, either for laser or inkjet (get the right one for your printer). Avery do some and come in a pack of 25 I believe. And if you're going to put a clear film over the top anyway it shouldn't make much difference if you use inkjet paper as the ink dries pretty quick onto the printer paper and doesn't smudge.The trick with transferring toner is to get the surface hot, then put the transfer on and heat that for a 30 sec or so to melt the toner. It also helps if what you initially transfer it onto has a slippery surface (like the backing to adhesive labels)

    Wouldn't it have been easier just to copy the design to clear laser or inkjet paper? I thought you were going to use the toner. I used to use old label backings and print toner on them for circuit boards by printing out a reverse image of the design onto the smooth backing, heat up the circuit board with an iron, then place the circuit design facedown and iron it on. I'd imagine you could do the same thing here and just put either a sheet of clear over it or spray it with some clear varnish.

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  • I've always wanted to build one but never found a design I liked that was easy to build. I'd always imagined using some sort of angled steel as it's quite strong. I like this one, but I'm not too sure about the angled clamp on top. Because of the rounded edges of the angled steel, I think it should be sharper so the metal has a cleaner edge when bending. But I do like the idea of the springs under it! It might be a better idea for the line up adjustment to have slots for the bolts through the 2x4 and adjust them that way instead of on the angled clamp. Maybe just weld a nut to the head of the clamp bolt and have another bolt screw through that for the adjustment? But nice instrucable - given me some great ideas.

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  • It will be something that happens over time and usage. See how you go. What I probably would have done was just put a copper strip on top for the positive and ground all of the negative side to the back chassis.

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  • Nice instructable! Just a couple of things I noticed. Although having the ends exposed for cooling, it will probably draw in dust as well making the plexi dirty (which scratches easy if you try and clean it). Maybe using a small panel of glass might be a better option? Then again, I suppose you could just replace the plexi, it's fairly cheap. With the bus wires you use, again with the heat it may shrink the insulation and cause a short on the back chassis. Maybe a better option would be to use copper tape over some left over plastic edging and solder to that. Or you could use some small strips of PCB board, silicon it to the back chassis and solder to that. All up, cool project

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    • Build a Dual 15V Power Supply Using Off the Shelf Modules for Under $50
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