MakersBox

KiCad is a circuit layout program that does 3D rendering. Best I can figure out is an STL of the board: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/projects/MOSFET_jr/design_files/MOSFET_jr.stl

Air soft and Rival will need two sets of IR emitters and detectors spaced a couple of inches apart since the projectiles are round. I'll add a step and the required code.

Looks like a nice implentation of two IR gate chronograph. Google translates:Here is an old and quite reliable scheme of a similar device. Http://http: //chronolite2.narod.ru/chronolite.html I collected it and even used it for several years. Sometimes it shows more precisely factory ones. On the site there is a very detailed description of circuit design, algorithm of operation, design and methods of manufacturing all the nodes. There are also ready firmware for repeating the device. Everything is free.

I added a video!

Are you wanting an STL of just the board? I put something at: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/projects/MOSFET_jr/design_files/MOSFET_jr.stl

The hybrid steppers are far more accurate (and expensive). They are also way over powered (and heavy) for what I'm doing. I'm still looking for something better.I love the sound your's make when running. I can't tell how you are doing the pen actuation, but it looks way more compact than mine.

I'm assuming you have downloaded the "TIRL_Arduino_Test.ino" file from Step 2 and installed it.The turtle commands like forward() and right() go in the loop() section of the file, starting on line 49. Step 10 of the Instructable show the different commands.My Instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/ gives more information about learning how to make the turtle draw things.Let me know your further questions.

What is the result of a single "forward(100)" command?

That is curious. I wonder if you have motors with different gearing on each side. There is a 64x version and a 16x version. Try and spin them by hand and see if they are different (the 64x version is much harder to spin). Also, modify your sketch to just do a forward(100) and see if it curves.

That sounds like one of the wheel steppers is not working. If that was the case, it would pivot on the non-turning wheel, creating a small circle maybe 30mm in diameter. If that is the case, double-check the wiring for that stepper.

Nice work. Fuel Injectors = brilliant. Love the resourcefulness.

Your questions are good. That is how we learn.The stepper and servo are running directly off the batteries with 5 cells means 7.5V. The steppers are rated for 5V, but can be run higher. I haven't had any issues with heating. The PWM method of driving steppers means short pulses and not continuous current like normal DC motors.

Did a little testing, and with continuous running at 7.5V both motors are pulling at total of 0.9A and they get pretty hot after about 4 minutes. If you need to do long runs, switch your 3 battery holder to 2 for 4 cells total (6V) which pull 0.7A and are only warm at 4 minutes. At the rated 5V, they only pull 0.55A. I've learned something!

Since the motors are in opposite orientation on the chassis, they must rotate in different directions to move the chassis strait. Does that make sense? They are polar opposites.

Two geared stepper motors are used to drive the wheels. A geared servo motor is used to raise and lower the pen.

Take a look at the attached example. There are also links where you can try your code online.

Yes, the other boards will work as long as you have the connections in the same order. Let me know how it goes!

Not sure.

Very nice! The use of block programming will make it more acessabile to beginners. I love the changes like use of the driver boards and lower profile servo bracket!

My current robot version is at https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR/. I even have a primitive vector font figured out. Feel free to modify and improve and let me know how it goes or if you need more specific help.

Take a look at the second page of this handout to see how I did it: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1nEVHLS0tUu...It also has some links where you can test your code online. I'm showing it using Python, but the commands for Turtle are very generic. Let me know how it goes.

Sounds like the magnetic sensor is not getting a signal, so it goes into sleep mode. Verify that you have the cap with magnet on the same side as the hall effect sensor, that the sensor is facing the magnet, and that they are closely aligned. You can also test the sensor by removing the cap with the magnet and waving in front of the sensor and you should get the lights for several seconds. If that doesn't work, try holding it to the back of the sensor (it is sensitive to the pole, so the magnet may be in backwards). Let me know what you find.

I worked a little with Ardublocks several years ago, but not with the robot. I think it would be really useful for younger kids. I think we would just need to create the blocks for the Turtle moves, which doesn't seem impossible: http://download.makeblock.com/mblock/mblock_extension_guide.pdf

I have not tried a 9V battery, but feel it is probably not able to supply the necessary current to operate the steppers. If the wheels are vibrating, or acting like they are trying to turn, that would be an indication. You can also measure the voltage on the supply side. If it drops below 5V while the wheels are trying to turn, that would also be an indication of insufficient current. If the wheels are not moving at all, I would check that the ULN2803 is wired correctly.

The file used to print it is attached to Step 1.If you don't have access to a 3D printer, or a friend who has one, check for a local maker space or at you library.If all that fails, contact me and I'll hook you up for the price of postage.

Take a look at Step 6 of JColvin91's Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-a-Stepper-Motor/

Can't seem to get the "Add Images" button to work, but here is what I made based on your instructable: https://twitter.com/TheMakersBox/status/1047238122130485248 I sourced everything but the transformer from Banggood and added a dedicated meter for the 5V..

Love the debounce explanation and simulator. Why RGB (are they controlled by the game or keystrokes or just for fun)?

Nice work! I've got an easy kit for anyone wanting to try your techniques out (ignore how poor my SMD soldering is in the pictures, I'm getting better): https://www.tindie.com/products/MakersBox/i-can-surface-mount-solder/

I think they changed their vendor. They seem to have better tolerances, but they are greased pretty heavily. I've been using hot water, goo gone, and a hot brush to remove the grease. Let me know if you come up with something better!

Ouch. That was a mistake. Thanks for catching and reporting it and sorry for the extra effort it caused!I've updated the step.

Perhaps you'd find what you need over at Hack-a-day. I found it pretty well done and glad it got featured.

Good catch. I find the licensing very confusing, especially since it involves hardware, software, and written instructions. I think the OSHWA mainly looks at the Github material (https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR) which is all CC BY-SA, including the wheel which is my design done in FreeCad. I think the Instructable defaulted to NC licence I'll change it to CC BY-SA to make everything match up.

Super cute. Love your style. If ever want to add some LEDs to something like this, I've got an Instructables for you check out: https://www.instructables.com/id/SnapNsew-An-Educational-Soft-Circuit-Platform/

A video is worth a million words . . .https://youtu.be/ExhSeAjVGYc

Super! Let us know what you make with it!

How long was the video clip? Are you able to save and view images?I put the schematic here: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/proj...The design files are there as well, and the project is Creative Commons, so feel free to modify it to your will.

Nice! Add a video if you get a chance.

The pen hack is genius!

Great closeup photos and beautiful joints! I have a simple beginners kit for anyone wanting to try these techniques at https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder/

What is the exact error? It is possible your anti-virus could be blocking "zip" files.

Take a look at https://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-Robot-Plotter/ which does what I think you are wanting. They use bluetooth to issue the commands from a PC, so the robot wouldn't need storage.

Nice instructable! Featured on your first time out. I can't believe I've never hear of this tool! I would add a brief description of what the tool is used for. I was curious enough to track down a video: https://youtu.be/cBhkp-DZMrE

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DSWxTWEVwAEZG7q.jpg:large

I've updated the board so the current kits have a good fit.

Good catch. Updated. Thanks!

Hobby 3D printing is usually PLA or ABS plastic filament. Try https://www.3dhubs.com/ or check with your local maker space.

Nice work. Have you looked at https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/ ?

Tindie hasn't approved the listing yet. It should be shortly.

The python in is the macropy.zip file on Step 17.The only photos I have right now are in the Introduction Step, but I'm planning on doing a video of it in action soon.

I designed the case last, and those those components will interfere with the top. I already had a batch of boards made, so that is just a work around. If you order the board from OSH Park (Rev 0.3), the silk screen is correct.

That is why I publish Instructables. The questions that get asked help me understand how to write better instructions.

Here is another source for the adapter board: https://solarbotics.com/product/31040/