MakersBox

It has been such a long time since I messed with this, and I'm afraid I can't be much help. The one thing you might try is a stronger pull-up, something in the 1K ohm range.

That is a completely different project from what I did. Take a look at this one.

104 x 60 mm

Shoot. I think that is on me. I just built one here and the transistor is bad. What is your order number and I'll send replacement kits!

Nice! That instructable is over 10 years old, so it is good to see a new version. I was always suprised that more people were not using Arduino with model trains.

This code should work on the 32U4 ItsyBitsy, but not the M0 or M4 ItsyBitsy.

The ISR functions are pretty specific to Atmega328. I would start by putting the detector on an analog pin and outputting AnalogRead() on the serial port. (Sounds like maybe you already did this). Once you are sure you have a good emitter/detector setup, you can start working on measuring duration and such. You don't need to use interrupts, but it helps with such quick events.

Hey, I think you might be alright. I don't have one here to test, but I believe that was the startup pattern, and then it is waiting for the signal from the hall-effect sensor to know it is spinning.Seems like the led should advance each time the button is pushed to show what pattern it is on. Is that not happening?If you don't have the hall-effect sensor, it should be possible to tweak the firmware so it still displays patterns. You will not be able to do letters or numbers because you will have no reference where you are at in the rotation, but you can still make some pretty cool POV displays.

Yup, I'm having trouble keeping everything current. Thanks for calling it out because it helps me do just that!I the link should be:https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR/tree/master/V2/me...Let me know how it goes!

Nice! Thanks for posting a build.

Thanks for posting the picture! I love seeing the results of all that work paying off!

Work of art. I would use picture 3 or 5 from the last step as your main photo. Gorgeous.

Are you using my Instructable from https://www.instructables.com/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/?Can you post your full code?

Wow. Just wow. Can't wait to see a video of it in action. Anyone interested in seeing the TVC prototype can see it here: https://youtu.be/kJL42Zab_Vw?t=97

Unfortunately no. Any pressure on the pen causes the wheels to slip or the stepper to stall. I tried doing chalk with the heavier, more powerful turtle in https://www.instructables.com/DFRobot-Turtle-Robot/ with limited success. The one trick I learned was to sharpen the chalk, but it wouldn't last long.

I'm not a big fan of perf boards, but you should be able to get something to work. I think your best bet is to use the schematic to do the point-to-point wiring. I'm willing to send you a PCB if you'll cover shipping.

El programa de prueba está en el Paso 2.

I credit my love of science to a great high school physics teacher who did a ton of crazy and engaging experiements like this. Keep up the good work!

Nice detective work. I'll tried and get everything updated so I don't confuse more people!

Check Ewimmers note about the correct values for R48 & R49:R48=10KR49=2M

That is strange behavior indeed. The easiest thing to do would be to open turtle.py and change the names of the functions. On the penup() issue, remove the servo from the mounting and see if it moves correctly. You may be hitting the motor housing and need to remove and adjust the servo arm.

Sorry for the confusion. If the back of your blue PCB says "Version 0.5" then it goes with the ItsyBitsy, and the pins should line up. The Instructable needs to be updated. Hopefully the attached image will help.

My memories of this project have faded significantly. If your multi-meter has a diode mode, check to see if you can light up the D1 LED, and that it is in the correct orientation.

Sounds epic.

Looks like you are the first to make it that far to find the error. Wish I could give you a prize! I've uploaded it to Step 27. Let me know how it goes and be sure to hit the "I Made It" button above and post a picture.

Take a look at this Instructable: It should help: https://www.instructables.com/28BYJ-48-Stepper-Motor-Arduino-L293D-Motor-Shield-/

Can you post a link to the shield you are using?

Seems to be triggering the interrupt but not getting the right timing signal. Are you using an Arduino Uno or a different board?Go back to Step 7 and upload the "AnalogReadSerial.ino" sketch. What are the readings with and without a dart in between the sensor.

KiCad is a circuit layout program that does 3D rendering. Best I can figure out is an STL of the board: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/projects/MOSFET_jr/design_files/MOSFET_jr.stl

Air soft and Rival will need two sets of IR emitters and detectors spaced a couple of inches apart since the projectiles are round. I'll add a step and the required code.

Looks like a nice implentation of two IR gate chronograph. Google translates:Here is an old and quite reliable scheme of a similar device. Http://http: //chronolite2.narod.ru/chronolite.html I collected it and even used it for several years. Sometimes it shows more precisely factory ones. On the site there is a very detailed description of circuit design, algorithm of operation, design and methods of manufacturing all the nodes. There are also ready firmware for repeating the device. Everything is free.

I added a video!

Are you wanting an STL of just the board? I put something at: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/projects/MOSFET_jr/design_files/MOSFET_jr.stl

The hybrid steppers are far more accurate (and expensive). They are also way over powered (and heavy) for what I'm doing. I'm still looking for something better.I love the sound your's make when running. I can't tell how you are doing the pen actuation, but it looks way more compact than mine.

I'm assuming you have downloaded the "TIRL_Arduino_Test.ino" file from Step 2 and installed it.The turtle commands like forward() and right() go in the loop() section of the file, starting on line 49. Step 10 of the Instructable show the different commands.My Instructable https://www.instructables.com/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/ gives more information about learning how to make the turtle draw things.Let me know your further questions.

What is the result of a single "forward(100)" command?

That is curious. I wonder if you have motors with different gearing on each side. There is a 64x version and a 16x version. Try and spin them by hand and see if they are different (the 64x version is much harder to spin). Also, modify your sketch to just do a forward(100) and see if it curves.

That sounds like one of the wheel steppers is not working. If that was the case, it would pivot on the non-turning wheel, creating a small circle maybe 30mm in diameter. If that is the case, double-check the wiring for that stepper.

Nice work. Fuel Injectors = brilliant. Love the resourcefulness.

Your questions are good. That is how we learn.The stepper and servo are running directly off the batteries with 5 cells means 7.5V. The steppers are rated for 5V, but can be run higher. I haven't had any issues with heating. The PWM method of driving steppers means short pulses and not continuous current like normal DC motors.

Did a little testing, and with continuous running at 7.5V both motors are pulling at total of 0.9A and they get pretty hot after about 4 minutes. If you need to do long runs, switch your 3 battery holder to 2 for 4 cells total (6V) which pull 0.7A and are only warm at 4 minutes. At the rated 5V, they only pull 0.55A. I've learned something!

Since the motors are in opposite orientation on the chassis, they must rotate in different directions to move the chassis strait. Does that make sense? They are polar opposites.

Two geared stepper motors are used to drive the wheels. A geared servo motor is used to raise and lower the pen.

Take a look at the attached example. There are also links where you can try your code online.

Yes, the other boards will work as long as you have the connections in the same order. Let me know how it goes!

Not sure.

Very nice! The use of block programming will make it more acessabile to beginners. I love the changes like use of the driver boards and lower profile servo bracket!

My current robot version is at https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR/. I even have a primitive vector font figured out. Feel free to modify and improve and let me know how it goes or if you need more specific help.

Take a look at the second page of this handout to see how I did it: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1nEVHLS0tUu...It also has some links where you can test your code online. I'm showing it using Python, but the commands for Turtle are very generic. Let me know how it goes.

Sounds like the magnetic sensor is not getting a signal, so it goes into sleep mode. Verify that you have the cap with magnet on the same side as the hall effect sensor, that the sensor is facing the magnet, and that they are closely aligned. You can also test the sensor by removing the cap with the magnet and waving in front of the sensor and you should get the lights for several seconds. If that doesn't work, try holding it to the back of the sensor (it is sensitive to the pole, so the magnet may be in backwards). Let me know what you find.

I worked a little with Ardublocks several years ago, but not with the robot. I think it would be really useful for younger kids. I think we would just need to create the blocks for the Turtle moves, which doesn't seem impossible: http://download.makeblock.com/mblock/mblock_extension_guide.pdf

I have not tried a 9V battery, but feel it is probably not able to supply the necessary current to operate the steppers. If the wheels are vibrating, or acting like they are trying to turn, that would be an indication. You can also measure the voltage on the supply side. If it drops below 5V while the wheels are trying to turn, that would also be an indication of insufficient current. If the wheels are not moving at all, I would check that the ULN2803 is wired correctly.

The file used to print it is attached to Step 1.If you don't have access to a 3D printer, or a friend who has one, check for a local maker space or at you library.If all that fails, contact me and I'll hook you up for the price of postage.

Take a look at Step 6 of JColvin91's Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-use-a-Stepper-Motor/

Can't seem to get the "Add Images" button to work, but here is what I made based on your instructable: https://twitter.com/TheMakersBox/status/1047238122130485248 I sourced everything but the transformer from Banggood and added a dedicated meter for the 5V..

Love the debounce explanation and simulator. Why RGB (are they controlled by the game or keystrokes or just for fun)?

Nice work! I've got an easy kit for anyone wanting to try your techniques out (ignore how poor my SMD soldering is in the pictures, I'm getting better): https://www.tindie.com/products/MakersBox/i-can-surface-mount-solder/

I think they changed their vendor. They seem to have better tolerances, but they are greased pretty heavily. I've been using hot water, goo gone, and a hot brush to remove the grease. Let me know if you come up with something better!

Ouch. That was a mistake. Thanks for catching and reporting it and sorry for the extra effort it caused!I've updated the step.

Perhaps you'd find what you need over at Hack-a-day. I found it pretty well done and glad it got featured.