MakersBox

Perhaps you'd find what you need over at Hack-a-day. I found it pretty well done and glad it got featured.

Good catch. I find the licensing very confusing, especially since it involves hardware, software, and written instructions. I think the OSHWA mainly looks at the Github material (https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR) which is all CC BY-SA, including the wheel which is my design done in FreeCad. I think the Instructable defaulted to NC licence I'll change it to CC BY-SA to make everything match up.

Super cute. Love your style. If ever want to add some LEDs to something like this, I've got an Instructables for you check out: https://www.instructables.com/id/SnapNsew-An-Educational-Soft-Circuit-Platform/

A video is worth a million words . . .https://youtu.be/ExhSeAjVGYc

Super! Let us know what you make with it!

How long was the video clip? Are you able to save and view images?I put the schematic here: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/proj...The design files are there as well, and the project is Creative Commons, so feel free to modify it to your will.

Nice! Add a video if you get a chance.

The pen hack is genius!

Great closeup photos and beautiful joints! I have a simple beginners kit for anyone wanting to try these techniques at https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder/

What is the exact error? It is possible your anti-virus could be blocking "zip" files.

Take a look at https://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-Robot-Plotter/ which does what I think you are wanting. They use bluetooth to issue the commands from a PC, so the robot wouldn't need storage.

Nice instructable! Featured on your first time out. I can't believe I've never hear of this tool! I would add a brief description of what the tool is used for. I was curious enough to track down a video: https://youtu.be/cBhkp-DZMrE

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DSWxTWEVwAEZG7q.jpg:large

I've updated the board so the current kits have a good fit.

Good catch. Updated. Thanks!

Hobby 3D printing is usually PLA or ABS plastic filament. Try https://www.3dhubs.com/ or check with your local maker space.

Nice work. Have you looked at https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/ ?

Tindie hasn't approved the listing yet. It should be shortly.

The python in is the macropy.zip file on Step 17.The only photos I have right now are in the Introduction Step, but I'm planning on doing a video of it in action soon.

I designed the case last, and those those components will interfere with the top. I already had a batch of boards made, so that is just a work around. If you order the board from OSH Park (Rev 0.3), the silk screen is correct.

That is why I publish Instructables. The questions that get asked help me understand how to write better instructions.

Here is another source for the adapter board: https://solarbotics.com/product/31040/

Cool!

Awesome! Now what are you going to build with it?

That would be amazing! It would need an RTC to keep time accurately, but it certainly could be done!

Oh, no. That is an old version. Use this one:https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/TTJS9HDEI'll get the Instructable updated. I should have more kits in stock at Tindie in a week or so.

Brilliant. A little compressed air and you have a squirel cannon.

Excellent idea as I'm always getting too much solder and making bridges everywhere. If readers are looking for a project to try this technique out on, I've got one at www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder

Excellent idea as I'm always getting too much solder and making bridges everywhere. If readers are looking for a project to try this technique out on, I've got one at https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder

Sorry about the confusion. The different pin mappings for the different cores are tripping everyone up, including me.I'm assuming you are using the Attiny core from https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCoreWhen you select [Tools] -> [Board] -> [Attiny24/44/84], do you then get an option for "Pinmapping"? If so, select "Counter Clockwise". Please let me know if that works.

Good catch! Thanks.

Crazy comment thread. Where do I put in a request for an "Soldering to IPC Standards" Instructable?

Love the pattern the light throws on the ceiling!

Can you try the original code with "counter-clockwise" pin mapping and let me know if that works?

Nice! Thanks for posting a picture.

Yup. Rev 1.0 boards should be int LEDS[] = {10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3}; // Port AMy bad.Not sure about the other error. What version of Arduino IDE are you using?

Good work. Bonus points for being persistent!

That looks like a timing issue. Did you use the [Tools] -> [Burn Bootloader] with it set to 8 Mhz?

Cool!Something is going on. Is the text readable? Might have some LED order mixup.The Arduino digitalWrite() is actually pretty time consuming (52 instructions or some such). Turning LEDs on directly using the PORT command will significantly speed things up: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/PortManipulation

Depending on your version of the IDE, you may be able to use:"EEprom.h" instead. If not, download and install EEpromex.h from the instructions at https://github.com/thijse/Arduino-EEPROMEx.

Sorry this is causing confusion. I hope you can help me figure it out.What pin works for the button?Does your IDE have a option for pin mapping when you go [Tools] -> [Board] -> [AttinyCore] -> [Attiny 24/44/84] ?

Oops. I was supposed to finish Step 12. I have, and have upload the script "readGraph.py"Let me know if it makes sense and you are able to follow it.

The short answer is that I was using an older “tiny” CORE which had different numbering for digital and analog, and thus I had to indicate both.  This is the "counter-clockwise" pin mapping. If you dig into the code, you see it is a mute point because I do digitalRead() on the button instead of analogRead(). I'm going to rewrite the sketch to use the newer "clockwise" pin mapping which should clear up that problem. And yes, I'll switch to using the INPUT_PULLUP declaration because it makes it clear what you are doing.  I need to get in the habit of that.

The "byte" is the datatype of the variable:https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/ByteI use "byte" instead of "int" because it saves memory (one byte instead of two).So the LEDs work. Does the button advance the modes? Be sure the Hall sensor is facing the correct way and that the magnet is oriented correctly. Both those have got me more than once.I'll work on a couple of trouble-shooting programs to load that may help figure out what it going on.

Another user reported the following changes work. Please try them and let me know:nt LEDS[] = {10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 3, 4};byte ledPin = 0; byte magPin = 0; // Hall effect sensor, byte magPullUp = 0; // Pin A0 / D0byte touchPin = 1; // Push button A1 / D1byte touchPullUp = 1;

I was a bit intimidated by doing SMD at as well at first. I've got an Instructable project if you want to try just the very basics: https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder/

Wow. Video is helpful.I see the chip is in the right orientation. I see the board is in right and the ribbon cable is right. I've actually never tried this on a Mac, but it shouldn't matter, right?The "burn bootloader" only sets some fuses, so is very quick. On my system, the red LED flashes, but does not remain on. If you don't have an error message, and it says "Done Burning Bootloader" in the blue area, you should be ready to upload the sketch, but then again, the green LED should keep blinking.Can you try [File]->[Preferences] and check the "Verbose Output during Upload". That should give us some more information. Let me know what it says.For a basic sketch to upload, open [File]->[Examples]->.[Blink] and change the LED pin to 3. That s...

Wow. Video is helpful.I see the chip is in the right orientation. I see the board is in right and the ribbon cable is right. I've actually never tried this on a Mac, but it shouldn't matter, right?The "burn bootloader" only sets some fuses, so is very quick. On my system, the red LED flashes, but does not remain on. If you don't have an error message, and it says "Done Burning Bootloader" in the blue area, you should be ready to upload the sketch, but then again, the green LED should keep blinking.Can you try [File]->[Preferences] and check the "Verbose Output during Upload". That should give us some more information. Let me know what it says.For a basic sketch to upload, open [File]->[Examples]->.[Blink] and change the LED pin to 3. That should blink the yellow LED once a second if successful.Let me know how it goes. "Patience, Persistance, and a Positive Attitude".

The error indicates a failure to communicate with the Arduino. A couple of things to check:- With the Arduino disconnected, check what com ports are listed ([Tools]->[Port]).- Plug the Arduino in, wait a few seconds, and set the port to the new com port.- Ensure the green heartbeat LED is blinking. If not, reset the Arduino.Let me know how it goes.

Thanks for posting a photo!

I'm going to document a build of the 1.0 version soon, so make sure you order that board and parts. It will use the larger CR2032 battery and I'm going to try a omi-polarity hall sensor so you don't have to worry about magnet orientation.

I don't think the programmer is an issue. In the video in Step 9 (https://www.instructables.com/id/Programmable-POV-Fidget-Spinner/#step9) it shows how to get to the flower pattern mode. Does your button advance the modes, and when you get to that mode do you see a flower (but with LEDs 0 & 1 dim)?

Oops. Just re-read that the push button does nothing. I think we might have some scrambled pin assignments (different attiny cores have different ones for the Attiny84 in some cases). Pull up the basic blink.ino sketch and upload it with led = 0 and see if D0 blinks. Rinse and repeat.Let me know how that goes. I'll try and dig into the alternate pin assignments.

Good work! Sounds like you are fully functional now?Looking at the following shows the "alternative pinout" which actually makes more sense since the analog and digital numbers match up: https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore/blob/mas...I think I must have the other Attiny core installed on my system. Man, they make this stuff hard.

Waiting on PCBs to come in. About a week.

I think LED 6 & 7 are still switched in 0.1. Also, it looks like I managed to get the ISP header flipped to the correct orientation, but the pads are covered by solder mask on the bottom (SORRY!). You should be able to scrap the mask off to get to the gold.

Just working on Revision 1.0 this weekend. PCB: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/SYeU4rzyDPST slide switch C&K JS202011AQN, https://www.digikey.com/short/317mh1CR2032 Battery holder: Linx BAT-HLD-001-THM, https://www.digikey.com/short/317mbt

I've uploaded a schematic to Step 1.

I couldn't get the link to work, but I assume you are talking about something like this, which would work (but I'm not sure how it would affect the balance):CONN IC DIP SOCKET 14POS TIN, 3M 4814-3004-CP, https://www.digikey.com/short/31cmn3 (or equivalent).The Attiny can be programmed in place using the ISP header.

I've only used the default thickness (1 oz), but thicker version might have a better spinning feel. Give it a try and let us know!

Very nice. You should be able to adapt my code (at least the flower pattern) to work on yours. Just change the number of LEDs to 5. You could also look at having OSH Park do some PCBs for you. At that size, it would be really inexpensive.

Take a look at https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/tree/master/projects/Attiny/Attiny84SpinnerTHD.I'm not sure how portable these files are.

This looks like a perfect use-case for my Arduino Mosfet Shield: https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-and-Using-a-MOSFET-Arduino-Shield/

It would lock you in to using a full Uno, which is probably overkill. I've done a MOSFET shield for Raspberry Pi, but it only has one channel. If you had three MOSFET channels on the Pi, you could cut the Arduino out of the picture.