MakersBox

Not sure.

Very nice! The use of block programming will make it more acessabile to beginners. I love the changes like use of the driver boards and lower profile servo bracket!

My current robot version is at https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR/. I even have a primitive vector font figured out. Feel free to modify and improve and let me know how it goes or if you need more specific help.

Take a look at the second page of this handout to see how I did it: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1nEVHLS0tUu...It also has some links where you can test your code online. I'm showing it using Python, but the commands for Turtle are very generic. Let me know how it goes.

Sounds like the magnetic sensor is not getting a signal, so it goes into sleep mode. Verify that you have the cap with magnet on the same side as the hall effect sensor, that the sensor is facing the magnet, and that they are closely aligned. You can also test the sensor by removing the cap with the magnet and waving in front of the sensor and you should get the lights for several seconds. If that doesn't work, try holding it to the back of the sensor (it is sensitive to the pole, so the magnet may be in backwards). Let me know what you find.

I worked a little with Ardublocks several years ago, but not with the robot. I think it would be really useful for younger kids. I think we would just need to create the blocks for the Turtle moves, which doesn't seem impossible: http://download.makeblock.com/mblock/mblock_extension_guide.pdf

I have not tried a 9V battery, but feel it is probably not able to supply the necessary current to operate the steppers. If the wheels are vibrating, or acting like they are trying to turn, that would be an indication. You can also measure the voltage on the supply side. If it drops below 5V while the wheels are trying to turn, that would also be an indication of insufficient current. If the wheels are not moving at all, I would check that the ULN2803 is wired correctly.

The file used to print it is attached to Step 1.If you don't have access to a 3D printer, or a friend who has one, check for a local maker space or at you library.If all that fails, contact me and I'll hook you up for the price of postage.

Take a look at Step 6 of JColvin91's Instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-use-a-Stepper-Motor/

Can't seem to get the "Add Images" button to work, but here is what I made based on your instructable: https://twitter.com/TheMakersBox/status/1047238122130485248 I sourced everything but the transformer from Banggood and added a dedicated meter for the 5V..

Love the debounce explanation and simulator. Why RGB (are they controlled by the game or keystrokes or just for fun)?

Nice work! I've got an easy kit for anyone wanting to try your techniques out (ignore how poor my SMD soldering is in the pictures, I'm getting better): https://www.tindie.com/products/MakersBox/i-can-surface-mount-solder/

I think they changed their vendor. They seem to have better tolerances, but they are greased pretty heavily. I've been using hot water, goo gone, and a hot brush to remove the grease. Let me know if you come up with something better!

Ouch. That was a mistake. Thanks for catching and reporting it and sorry for the extra effort it caused!I've updated the step.

Perhaps you'd find what you need over at Hack-a-day. I found it pretty well done and glad it got featured.

Good catch. I find the licensing very confusing, especially since it involves hardware, software, and written instructions. I think the OSHWA mainly looks at the Github material (https://github.com/aspro648/OSTR) which is all CC BY-SA, including the wheel which is my design done in FreeCad. I think the Instructable defaulted to NC licence I'll change it to CC BY-SA to make everything match up.

Super cute. Love your style. If ever want to add some LEDs to something like this, I've got an Instructables for you check out: https://www.instructables.com/id/SnapNsew-An-Educational-Soft-Circuit-Platform/

A video is worth a million words . . .https://youtu.be/ExhSeAjVGYc

Super! Let us know what you make with it!

How long was the video clip? Are you able to save and view images?I put the schematic here: https://github.com/aspro648/KiCad/blob/master/proj...The design files are there as well, and the project is Creative Commons, so feel free to modify it to your will.

Nice! Add a video if you get a chance.

The pen hack is genius!

Great closeup photos and beautiful joints! I have a simple beginners kit for anyone wanting to try these techniques at https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder/

What is the exact error? It is possible your anti-virus could be blocking "zip" files.

Take a look at https://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-Robot-Plotter/ which does what I think you are wanting. They use bluetooth to issue the commands from a PC, so the robot wouldn't need storage.

Nice instructable! Featured on your first time out. I can't believe I've never hear of this tool! I would add a brief description of what the tool is used for. I was curious enough to track down a video: https://youtu.be/cBhkp-DZMrE

https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DSWxTWEVwAEZG7q.jpg:large

I've updated the board so the current kits have a good fit.

Good catch. Updated. Thanks!

Hobby 3D printing is usually PLA or ABS plastic filament. Try https://www.3dhubs.com/ or check with your local maker space.

Nice work. Have you looked at https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-an-Arduino-Drawing-Robot-with-Hour-of-Code-T/ ?

Tindie hasn't approved the listing yet. It should be shortly.

The python in is the macropy.zip file on Step 17.The only photos I have right now are in the Introduction Step, but I'm planning on doing a video of it in action soon.

I designed the case last, and those those components will interfere with the top. I already had a batch of boards made, so that is just a work around. If you order the board from OSH Park (Rev 0.3), the silk screen is correct.

That is why I publish Instructables. The questions that get asked help me understand how to write better instructions.

Here is another source for the adapter board: https://solarbotics.com/product/31040/

Cool!

Awesome! Now what are you going to build with it?

That would be amazing! It would need an RTC to keep time accurately, but it certainly could be done!

Oh, no. That is an old version. Use this one:https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/TTJS9HDEI'll get the Instructable updated. I should have more kits in stock at Tindie in a week or so.

Brilliant. A little compressed air and you have a squirel cannon.

Excellent idea as I'm always getting too much solder and making bridges everywhere. If readers are looking for a project to try this technique out on, I've got one at www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder

Excellent idea as I'm always getting too much solder and making bridges everywhere. If readers are looking for a project to try this technique out on, I've got one at https://www.instructables.com/id/I-Can-Surface-Mount-Solder

Sorry about the confusion. The different pin mappings for the different cores are tripping everyone up, including me.I'm assuming you are using the Attiny core from https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCoreWhen you select [Tools] -> [Board] -> [Attiny24/44/84], do you then get an option for "Pinmapping"? If so, select "Counter Clockwise". Please let me know if that works.

Good catch! Thanks.

Crazy comment thread. Where do I put in a request for an "Soldering to IPC Standards" Instructable?

Love the pattern the light throws on the ceiling!

Can you try the original code with "counter-clockwise" pin mapping and let me know if that works?

Nice! Thanks for posting a picture.

Yup. Rev 1.0 boards should be int LEDS[] = {10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3}; // Port AMy bad.Not sure about the other error. What version of Arduino IDE are you using?

Good work. Bonus points for being persistent!

That looks like a timing issue. Did you use the [Tools] -> [Burn Bootloader] with it set to 8 Mhz?

Cool!Something is going on. Is the text readable? Might have some LED order mixup.The Arduino digitalWrite() is actually pretty time consuming (52 instructions or some such). Turning LEDs on directly using the PORT command will significantly speed things up: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/PortManipulation

Depending on your version of the IDE, you may be able to use:"EEprom.h" instead. If not, download and install EEpromex.h from the instructions at https://github.com/thijse/Arduino-EEPROMEx.

Sorry this is causing confusion. I hope you can help me figure it out.What pin works for the button?Does your IDE have a option for pin mapping when you go [Tools] -> [Board] -> [AttinyCore] -> [Attiny 24/44/84] ?

Oops. I was supposed to finish Step 12. I have, and have upload the script "readGraph.py"Let me know if it makes sense and you are able to follow it.

The short answer is that I was using an older “tiny” CORE which had different numbering for digital and analog, and thus I had to indicate both.  This is the "counter-clockwise" pin mapping. If you dig into the code, you see it is a mute point because I do digitalRead() on the button instead of analogRead(). I'm going to rewrite the sketch to use the newer "clockwise" pin mapping which should clear up that problem. And yes, I'll switch to using the INPUT_PULLUP declaration because it makes it clear what you are doing.  I need to get in the habit of that.

The "byte" is the datatype of the variable:https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/ByteI use "byte" instead of "int" because it saves memory (one byte instead of two).So the LEDs work. Does the button advance the modes? Be sure the Hall sensor is facing the correct way and that the magnet is oriented correctly. Both those have got me more than once.I'll work on a couple of trouble-shooting programs to load that may help figure out what it going on.