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22Instructables1,622,145Views134CommentsThe Netherlands
Engineer from the Netherlands. Projects in 3D printing, electronics, prop making, sewing and whatever interests me. (If you have a pressing question go to my site and ask it there. I am way more likely to answer it there.)

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  • A Fully 3D Printable GlaDOS Robotic Ceiling Arm Lamp

    Removed because I left thingiversehttp://ytec3d.com/glados-lamp/

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    All gear stages should be roughly the same size, so 2 more. Looking at the model suggests around 38-40mm

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    https://ytec3d.com/downloads/Step files are here

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  • Heat Exchangers and 3D Printing

    The program is available on the site in the link

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  • Heat Exchangers and 3D Printing

    I am still running the investigation on copper vs. aluminium vs. plastic. Copper will probably have a higher thermal transfer, but for now I am still unsure if it is more efficient. The thermal transfer from air to material and back is way lower than the transfer through the material, and if it conducts too well, it might actually travel up or down the exchanger to somewhere where it is not supposed to be. I did run an initial test where the three materials showed little difference, but I need better tools to verify.

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    You should not really change the gear ratio, and if you do, only multiply with whole numbers (x2, x3 etc.) The beauty of gears is that you can increase the module to get bigger gears, or double or triple the number of teeth. As for scaling the other parts, you are a bit on your own. The design is made to be 3D printed, so if you want to manufacture it differently, you will need to alter the design yourself to match those techniques.

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  • A Fully 3D Printable GlaDOS Robotic Ceiling Arm Lamp

    They are not on thingiverse anymore. In step 3 I already give a new link, but there are some old references that still mention thingiverse:http://ytec3d.com/glados-lamp/

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    Neptune and Uranus is are already designed. However, this made the design unwieldy, and both planets hardly move. Pluto would move even less.The sheet is already included in step 1.

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  • Plan B, an Open Source 3DP (powder and Inkjet) 3D Printer

    I do not understand that question. Can you elaborate?

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  • Plan B, an Open Source 3DP (powder and Inkjet) 3D Printer

    1. What specifically is it you want to add and why?2. Plan B is already ancient and replaced with newer, better hardware called Oasis (https://hackaday.io/project/86954-oasis-3dp). Still build at your own risk, but it is more capable.

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    The 8mm shaft needs to be longer, the parts for neptune and uranus need to be printed as well, and assembled the same way as all other planets. The tube guide for these planets will not fit standard A4 paper and could not be made from 300mm brass tube, and they already do not really move at all. I myself left them out. You will have to eyeball the other planets arms. Other than more parts and some longer / extra brass tubes, everything printed is completely the same. Even the saturn gear already has the teeth for the next planet.

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    The local model train shop. Sadly, I have no internet sources for this one.

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  • Heat Exchangers and 3D Printing

    Lets assume that your outside air is 30 degrees with 80% humidity, and the inside air is 20 degrees at 40% humidity. At 30 degrees air holds at most 30.4 grams of water per m2, at 20 degrees air can only hold 17.3 grams per m2 at most. your outside air is 30 degrees at 80%, so there is 24.3 grams per m2. This is 21.1 gram per kilo of air. Your inside air of 20 degrees now passes through the heat exchanger, and the outside 30 degrees air as well. The outside air tries to cool to 20 degrees. However, at 20 degrees, the maximum amount of water allowed to be in the air is 14.5 grams, so 6.6 grams of water will condense. Water releases 2250(ish) joules of energy for every gram that is condensed. This means 14.85kJ is released for every kg of air passing through the heat exchanger, if it was go…

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    Lets assume that your outside air is 30 degrees with 80% humidity, and the inside air is 20 degrees at 40% humidity. At 30 degrees air holds at most 30.4 grams of water per m2, at 20 degrees air can only hold 17.3 grams per m2 at most. your outside air is 30 degrees at 80%, so there is 24.3 grams per m2. This is 21.1 gram per kilo of air. Your inside air of 20 degrees now passes through the heat exchanger, and the outside 30 degrees air as well. The outside air tries to cool to 20 degrees. However, at 20 degrees, the maximum amount of water allowed to be in the air is 14.5 grams, so 6.6 grams of water will condense. Water releases 2250(ish) joules of energy for every gram that is condensed. This means 14.85kJ is released for every kg of air passing through the heat exchanger, if it was going to condense every bit of the excess water. Air itself takes only 1000(ish) joules to heat 1kg by 1 degree, so the amount of energy released is enough to to heat the air by 14.85 degrees Celsius.Your cool, dry inside air has much less energy in it than the humid outside air. Water takes an absolutely enormous amount of energy to vaporize, and releases an equal amount of energy when it condenses. This means that you can cool down the air until the humidity is 100% (around 28.5 degrees Celsius) and then spend the rest of your cool air condensing water from the outside air, giving you a max of 0.5 or so degrees extra. I am afraid that if I did the math right, that a heat exchanger should not help for hot, humid air on the outside and cool dry air on the inside. (As a side fact, The other way around, with warmer more humid air inside and cooler, dryer air on the outside, the humidity will actually help you get even more heat back from the inside air, since some water condenses and releases heat.)sources:https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/maximum-moistur...https://www.rotronic.com/en/humidity_measurement-f...https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/specific-heat-c...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enthalpy_of_vaporiza...

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  • Heat Exchangers and 3D Printing

    If the inside air is already cold and you exchange it with hotter humid outside air, there is a chance some of the water will indeed condense. I suspect however that this will not be a massive amount of water, since condensing water releases a huge amount of energy. I could run the numbers if you are curious.

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  • Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    It will leave the sun not spinning, but I agree with you that this is a great addition to keep the parts simple. I like it.

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  • The file was not really designed to be an easy to use spreadsheet. It was only there to do the math once during the design. It is a bit of a challenge to explain, but here goes:The first sheet is there to calculate the orbital periods of each planets. At the very top are the orbital periods of the planets as they are. I fill in the gears I want to use, and it calculates the speed that comes out of that. Here, z1 and z2 are the numbers that are modified. It gives the total gear ration from the sun (stacked) and the offset compared to what is desired (which is at the top). Green is the one I used.The second sheet is the gear finder. The only 2 values you should modify is A2 and A3. A2 is the desired gear ratio for a double pair of gears. The second number is the offset percentage. The sheet…

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    The file was not really designed to be an easy to use spreadsheet. It was only there to do the math once during the design. It is a bit of a challenge to explain, but here goes:The first sheet is there to calculate the orbital periods of each planets. At the very top are the orbital periods of the planets as they are. I fill in the gears I want to use, and it calculates the speed that comes out of that. Here, z1 and z2 are the numbers that are modified. It gives the total gear ration from the sun (stacked) and the offset compared to what is desired (which is at the top). Green is the one I used.The second sheet is the gear finder. The only 2 values you should modify is A2 and A3. A2 is the desired gear ratio for a double pair of gears. The second number is the offset percentage. The sheet will highlight any combination of 2 gear sets that fits the requirement. This was used to find the combination of gears between each planet. Due to how gears work, each planet needs 2 pairs of gears that have the same sum of teeth. The second sheet only has 3 numbers of teeth, the 4th is calculated from the other numbers. (1+2)-3=4

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    • Pressure Sensitive Floor Mat Sensor
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  • In this type of sensor the fluid is not allowed to touch any conductor. The conductors should be pretty close together, but it is not the goal to have as little fluid as possible in there. It is allowed to have a gap of a centimeter or over. Temperature should influence the reading a lot and needs to be compensated, but I have not used the sensor much since the project I was going to use this one ended up not happening.

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  • Sadly, I do not. Selling 3D prints takes a lot of time I would rather spend on other things.

    Uniform scaling. The arms sometimes need a bit more length to allow the gears to run smoothly.

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  • Lightly sanding the rods is easiest. Or get different rods. Bearings are 4mm, exactly (withing 0.01mm) and cannot really be sanded.

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  • If you want something that keeps time over a longer time you would need something like a stepper motor anyway. If you take a stepper and maybe add some extra gears you'd have the clock you wanted. If you are already making a clock you could also take the hour gear and use it as an input for the orrery (with the right gearing to make the orrery move to the hours).I do like the idea of a combined orrery and clock. I might try that one if I have more time.

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  • Not monitored often, but monitored.5V/2A is USB power supply. That will not be enough for this. There is a beefy 5V power supply in there to make the servo's run. How much current I do not know anymore.

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  • Bearings should be within a few thousands of a millimeter accurate. The problem is most likely in the shafts. Depending on the type and brand, they might nog be 8mm at most, but just roughly 8mm. If your shafts are 8.05mm, you already will not be able to move the bearings on the shaft. I got accurate brass tubing for mine, and I have never had this problem, but it is possible.One way you could try to fix it is use sandpaper on the shaft to get a few hundreds of a millimeter of the tube. You you have calipers you can see how much the tubes are out of dimension.

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  • I had the idea to make one, but I think it will be a while before I start that project.

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  • dragonator's entry Tank Slippers is a winner in the Lazy Life Challenge contest
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  • dragonator's entry Tank Slippers is a finalist in the Sew Cool Contest contest
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    • Tank Slippers
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  • I seem to remember that freezing temperatures are dangerous in a heat exchanger. It does indeed clog up with ice if you have it. From what I have heard in the case of frost is that people put big underground channels to preheat the air to just above freezing. Filtering is always a good idea on both sides. You'd be surprised how much dust is in the air for an exchanger to accumulate.

    Hello Vlad,I have seen your progress, even though I have not really found much time to answer.Your tests looks amazing. I had hoped to test myself last winter but I sadly did not have the time. I wanted to make a proper massflow meter so I can do true efficiency testing. Your results seem almost too good to be true. I can understand that you are skeptical. The basic design does have a lot of surface area, so it is not out of the question. One important thing to look at is not just the temperature in, but also the humidity. If you want to make sure the numbers make sense, get all 4 temperatures and humidifies, 2 at each end. From these values you (or I) can derive the efficiency and unbalance of the exchanger.Good luck. I can't wait to see more.

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  • The distance between the outer and the inner tube is what matters. This needs to be as thin as possible. The relative diameters do not matter.

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  • 90mm is the outside diameter. 89mm should fit.

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  • The moon ring is one of the more fragile parts but I have not ever felt like it would break. The main argument would be that it is a really complicated part to install.In principle the orrery should also work upside down but at this point I do not know if all axes will remain in place with the orrery upside down, but they can be secured in place.It would be an amazing lamp. Bear in mind that the feet will need to be glued in place or replaced is mounted upside down.

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  • Not exactly lying around, but I do have them yes. The module on most of the gears is 1. The big ring and the tiny gear on the moon have a module of 1.25 to make the scale work out. If you need anything more let me know.

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  • Relocated to Ytec3d.com. They are still available for download.

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  • I do not really understand the question. The way I built my tube can be scaled indefinitely.

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  • Congratulations on winning first prize. I think it is well deserved

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  • Thanks, good luck in the wizarding contest.

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  • The Uno has several pins that match with the schematic in step 10. These are the pins that you can connect to the Uno. These pins are A5, A4, D7 and D8. Also you will need to connect the 5V and the ground. The crystal and programming header are on a normal uno, so you won't need to add those.

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  • When I saw the first pictures, I did not imagine this thing to be made of paper. It looks like it is made from something more like wood. I never thought of this way to make stuff by hand. It may take time, but the end result is amazing and can be made by without any special tools. There is a 3D printing technique like it called LOM, if you are ever interested to see.If you are worried at it's strength, there might be something you could try especially with paper. You could try and impregnate the paper with a watery super glue (CA). I used it myself to impregnate gypsum parts to make them stronger. The super glue should soak into any paper part and set within an hour. After that, the part should be an order of magnitude stronger. In the Netherlands there is "Bison seconde lijm" w…

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    When I saw the first pictures, I did not imagine this thing to be made of paper. It looks like it is made from something more like wood. I never thought of this way to make stuff by hand. It may take time, but the end result is amazing and can be made by without any special tools. There is a 3D printing technique like it called LOM, if you are ever interested to see.If you are worried at it's strength, there might be something you could try especially with paper. You could try and impregnate the paper with a watery super glue (CA). I used it myself to impregnate gypsum parts to make them stronger. The super glue should soak into any paper part and set within an hour. After that, the part should be an order of magnitude stronger. In the Netherlands there is "Bison seconde lijm" which is really strong and works well for gypsum. You can get it in any home improvement store there. But beware to do it in a ventilated area without breathing the fumes. CA fumes are quite nasty. I know this from experience.

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  • I have had little problem with this size tubing, but I will remember that when it is more critical or when I need to bend bigger tubes. Thanks.

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  • Well it is mostly 2 normal sized servo's and 2 micro sized servo's, a few led's and a laser diode. I also used a joystick module. All of those don't have to be expensive. You can get decent servo's for 5 euros each. All other parts mentioned are under 1-2 euros.

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  • I don't know how much use it will be, it is quite chaotic, but I added it as an attachment to Step 1.

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  • That is a problem I did not solve. The 'easiest' way of doing it would be assembling the planets as it is right now, but sadly you cannot slide the planets in their current position.

    I would like to have made it with the right scale and distance planets, but I am afraid that both my 3D printer AND my house are not big enough for that. Even with the examples I have seen I myself have a hard time grasping just what the scale really is.

    I don't do thingiverse anymore. Short version is that I lost all of my goodwill toward Stratasys and Makerbot, and stopped using it.

    I don't think I myself could make this a kit for an interesting price. I charge somewhere between 5 and 10 euros per hour for 3D printing, and printing takes at least 10 hours. Other materials come to roughly 20-30 euros. Think around 100 euros, but that is from the top of my head.Classroom might be a bit challenging, but die-hard hobbyist should be fine.

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  • You can upscale any model before slicing, but there are bearing holes and shaft bores that need to be more or less what they are now. If you want to scale it up much (think more than 5%) you will need to modify the parts so that they themselves are bigger but the bores and bearing holes aren't.I still have the source files available and can share them if you have solidworks. I can share Step files if you have a program that can handle them. If you don't have this software and still need it up-scaled, I might be able to do it, but it might take a while.

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  • Making one out of legos is way more complicated than 3D printing one. Lego gives less options for the used gears. You have my respect. I too did the gears by hand first, but that took forever and at some point I was completely done with it. The excel sheet is not perfect but it only took me an hour, so it was totally worth it.

    I made the paper template. It provides more accuracy than the orrery requires. I tried making a pipe bender but after I discovered 3mm pipe can still be bent by hand without collapsing I ditched the idea.

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  • I did consider painting the planets but getting them to look good would have been difficult with my tools. Instead I printed the planets in Bronzefill and polished them. This gives a different look, one that I am quite pleased with.I am curious to see what you will come up with. If you need any more information you can always ask.

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  • I did. It is the easiest way to get bronzefill to shine so I designed and made a small motorized glass jar with screws. It is not the fastest but it does work.

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  • dragonator commented on dragonator's instructable Hand in hand clock

    The cap goes from 5V to ground and cancels the noise of the stepper motor. Closer to the stepper motor driver is better.

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  • Hardware wise not much. Both are powder and inkjet printers, both use the HP C6602A and both are decent, but more there to prove a point an be useful as a stepping stone. Both are at this point no longer supported.If you want to start a 3D thing as a hobby, I advice against powder. It is difficult, messy and has very limited uses. Start with FDM or DLP.

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