gwfong

OH MAN! This is AMAZING! You did an awesome job. The craft work is very good. I love it. If you have video or a write up or something, I would love to see it. If you wrote up an Instructable, send me a link. I'll definitely vote for it. Great job.

Oh please, let me know how your build goes. I love it when folks make kinetic Halloween props. As for the trimpot values it has been a long time and I had to re-review the code. It looks like the flap open duration is anywhere between 300ms to 1300ms. And the belt run duration is between 7000ms and 13000ms. Those values would likely need to change for your build.Good luck, and please, if you can, share photos/videos.

Thanks. I had a blast making it.

Thanks

Thanks. I'm trying to think of something for next year.

Thanks. I had fun .making it.

Yep. Hot glue. I don't remember if I put the glue in the tube first or if I put it on the bolt first. I would guess it goes in the tube first and then jam the tube over the bolt.If there's a mistake with hot glue, rubbing alcohol will break the adhesion.

Cool site. The inside dimension of the brass tube fits over the outside dimension of the u-joint. It was perfectly snug. The u-joint connector size is standard. The brass tube is that common brass stuff that all Ace Hardware seems to have. I think it is from K&S Metal or something. So, that tube should be pretty standard. I was at the hardware store literally trying to connect various rods with the u-joint. Brass, aluminum, or steel. It doesn't really matter as long as it snug and cheap. I've also seen these particular rods at hobby shops.

Awesome. Please let me know the link to your project once it is ready to share. That's cool, too, about the rpi and webcam. I'm currently building something w/ it right now. Really fun and powerful.

Thanks. I definitely recommend taking classes. A co-worker suggested a community college for welding. After trying to get in an overfilled after work time slot for 3 semesters, I finally got in. The background of the students ran the gamut from those seeking certification and vocation to artists and hobbyists to the retired, kids right out of high school, and both men and women. The best thing about a community college is that for very little money, relatively, one learns to weld on someone else's equipment and tools and consumes their materials. I learned oxy-fuel, mig, tig, stick, soldering, brazing, and plasma cutting and safety. I also took a metal fab class from the same instructor which brought in metal forming and shaping. In both classes he allowed us to bring in projects to work …

Thanks. I definitely recommend taking classes. A co-worker suggested a community college for welding. After trying to get in an overfilled after work time slot for 3 semesters, I finally got in. The background of the students ran the gamut from those seeking certification and vocation to artists and hobbyists to the retired, kids right out of high school, and both men and women. The best thing about a community college is that for very little money, relatively, one learns to weld on someone else's equipment and tools and consumes their materials. I learned oxy-fuel, mig, tig, stick, soldering, brazing, and plasma cutting and safety. I also took a metal fab class from the same instructor which brought in metal forming and shaping. In both classes he allowed us to bring in projects to work on. That was awesome because he taught the rest of the class how to handle the various nuances each project had. As for the fused glass classes, the instructor was just as awesome. She owns the studio, does commission work, and teaches kids to retirees. We learned various cuts, various glass types and how they mix or don't mix, how to add metals, how to create stringers and beads, how to create forms and do slumping, how some of the science works, and more. Since it's a private business, it is a bit more expensive with respect to the class time. After taking a few classes and deciding to do more complicated glass projects, I invested in some of the basic tools so I can do a good amount of work at home and then be ready to basically just grind and fire in class.

Thanks. I definitely learned a lot.

very cool

very cool and creative

Please let me know your instructable once it has been built. I want to see pics!

Yeah, alignment is key. Please post a pic when you got it all setup! Good luck.

Very nice. Tons of useful information.

I don't have my stuff with me. I can tell you, though, that the rotary encoder I used is one that has a switch. That is, the encoder has 3 pins for measuring the left and right turning of the shaft and 2 pins for detecting when the shaft is pressed down (like a button or a momentary switch). When the shaft is pressed down a circuit is closed. And because it is a momentary switch, to prevent false signals, the circuit has been setup with a pull-down resistor. You can find more info on this at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ButtonAs for using pin 6 vs pin 7 for the encoder, the encoder library from pjrc (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_Encoder.html) mentions that it can adapt to types of pins if the pins have some capabilities, specifically interrupts. My nano was a knock off. Mayb…

I don't have my stuff with me. I can tell you, though, that the rotary encoder I used is one that has a switch. That is, the encoder has 3 pins for measuring the left and right turning of the shaft and 2 pins for detecting when the shaft is pressed down (like a button or a momentary switch). When the shaft is pressed down a circuit is closed. And because it is a momentary switch, to prevent false signals, the circuit has been setup with a pull-down resistor. You can find more info on this at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ButtonAs for using pin 6 vs pin 7 for the encoder, the encoder library from pjrc (https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_libs_Encoder.html) mentions that it can adapt to types of pins if the pins have some capabilities, specifically interrupts. My nano was a knock off. Maybe it's not to spec. Maybe the encoder library does or does not do with my nano different from yours.If it was me, I'd build a circuit just to read the encoder signals (rotary and switch) and that's it. Find the pins that work and modify the code to use those pins.

I'm not entirely sure but I think that 5v in the spec diagram is really just suggesting that's source power. EncA and EncB will get that from the Arduino pins. A cleaner example of the setup is here http://www.multiwingspan.co.uk/arduino.php?page=ro.... There is no additional power. I do notice that the spec suggests using 10K ohm resistors. I did not do that. But maybe using them provides a cleaner signal.As for Pin 9, that's the signal wire for the passive infrared sensor. In the center fritzing diagram above, it is the leftmost top yellow wire in the breadboard that goes to the center pin of the PIR. You should see that in the code as well. PirSleepDetection uses PIN_PIR which is defined as 9.

You are right. I put up a new image.Pin 6 was and still is correct.Pin 3 was and still is correct.Pin 2 wasn't specified. Now it is correct.Pin 8 wasn't specified. Now it is correct.Pin 9 was and still is correct.

I've been thinking about ways to build the lamp without a 3D printer, but I have not started. However, it'll probably involve welding since I'm taking a welding class. But I think I may find a way to use brazing instead, which just uses a torch. I just need to find the time.

Sorry. Been busy. Extension sounds like a cool idea. Ultimately, though, I personally didn't want anything hanging out the back once the algorithm has been established.

thanks