jmengel

The wood enclosure does soak up spills and splatter, so gets more worn with use but otherwise has been fine. Keep it clear of the messy processes and you should be ok, it certainly isn't water tight. In terms of safety, definitely a good GFI breaker is needed with proper grounding where applicable. Never had a problem myself. Also, the heatsinks for the SSRs are outside the wood case and never get very hot in my experience. The failure mode we've had is with the PID controllers. All the original units have failed and we are now using a better quality unit only on the HLT with a simple PWM controller on the boil. Good luck!

Awesome!

My opinion is that you don't need to control the mash pump. You want as much recirc as you can get through the mash, and as you correctly state the mash will not exceed the HLT temp. I just leave the mash pump on and meter it down with a valve to prevent pulling too hard on the filter bed. The temp of the mash is shown to inform you when the mash has reached the temp desired as the settling time is much longer than that of the HLT. Meaning that if the HLT has just reached 77C the mash may take an additional 20-30 minutes to stabilize depending on the mash volume and pump flow rate. In practice, my HLT PID failed recently and I swapped in the mash PID rather than buy another so I only have display of the HLT temperature. I just give a cushion to all brew times to allow the mash to reach ...

My opinion is that you don't need to control the mash pump. You want as much recirc as you can get through the mash, and as you correctly state the mash will not exceed the HLT temp. I just leave the mash pump on and meter it down with a valve to prevent pulling too hard on the filter bed. The temp of the mash is shown to inform you when the mash has reached the temp desired as the settling time is much longer than that of the HLT. Meaning that if the HLT has just reached 77C the mash may take an additional 20-30 minutes to stabilize depending on the mash volume and pump flow rate. In practice, my HLT PID failed recently and I swapped in the mash PID rather than buy another so I only have display of the HLT temperature. I just give a cushion to all brew times to allow the mash to reach temperature after the HLT has.Good luck!

Theoretically an energy monitor similar to this could be implemented on 3 phase although the timing of measurement and computing phase becomes more critical. It may require a more powerful processor and better sampling code. Not sure. Making a one-off 3-phase energy monitor is not extremely interesting to me. The cost would be prohibitive for you. Good luck!

You can't get GFCI protection with 3-wire. You need a separate ground and neutral. So the risk is death. I did build a PWM circuit with a potentiometer to dial in the power to the boil kettle in a manual fashion, I still use the PID controller to automate the temperature control on the HLT. It is easier to use a proportional control SSR for the boil rather than build your own PWM. Here is an example:http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=353

I used 60A SSR's because that is what I had on hand. You are correct that 40A ones would work fine.

Either would work as long as they are rated for the current demand.

250mm tall x 300mm wide x 150mm deep

You would just wire the SSR output to energize the hot leg of 120VAC pump outlet instead of the black leg of the 240VAC for the heater element. For the relay, you'd wire the black and white wires from the pump outlet to the relay instead of the black and red. You would have to tune the PID but should be able to use any one suitable for the project to drive the pump instead of the heater. I think.

Great to hear. Good luck with everything. Our garage is still going strong, even supporting a 12 panel solar array.

Fuses are a good idea, but my build was focused on low cost, which means low part count. Feel free to include a fuse.

You missed something. 220V is created by the two "hot" 110V lines (red and black) 180 degrees out of phase to each other. So by taking one of the "hot" 110V lines relative to neutral (white), you get 110V. No transformer needed.

The concrete takes a few days to do and then you need to let it cure a bit. Talk to the contractor on that, my guess is a week. For us in MN, the best time to build is in September since it is still warm, one of the driest months, and less bugs. If you have a slab with block and bolts for your sill plates, all the materials on-hand, a good set of plans, and a capable crew of 4-5 you could get the walls up, sheathed, windows in and the roof trussed and shingled in a weekend. After that, a day for electrical, a day for doors, and a day or two for siding. You could have a basic garage like mine done in a week. You only really need a crew for the walls and roof, I did the rest on my own on weekends and it took like 4 weekends or about 8-10 days of hard work.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacyYes, you are wrong. Thermodynamics is a cruel mistress.

Have you seen it? Because I have, and no resistor divider is needed. I suggest you read the datasheet:http://www.ti.com.cn/cn/lit/ds/symlink/lm2575-n.pdf

Fire, good! Have you done any testing on your heat sink performance installed in the maglite? How about luminous output over time (single cycle and multi-cycle)? With your stated 80 watts, and assuming that your drop in housing moves heat out of the LED's at 1 degrees C/W added to the LED die junction to solder pad resistance of 1.2 degrees C/W you are talking a 176C rise in die temperature within the engine before any heat transfer to the maglite housing. Since the maximum recommended junction temperature for these LEDs is 150C, and your instructable does not appear to suggest the application of a thermal compound to the engine drop in prior to installation into the maglite housing my guess is the luminous lifetime of such a light engine is limited. What can you tell us?

You are going to have to read the Instructable. Hint, it is in "Step 3 Code".

All of these variables serve to get from the measured values to a somewhat accurate calculated current, power, voltage value. The calibration code is essentially Trystan Lea's, and he has some explanation on his website: https://openenergymonitor.org/emon/buildingblocks/...https://openenergymonitor.org/emon/buildingblocks/...For calibration, I used a large resistive load of known magnitude, a 1500W electric space heater, to load the system and then tweaked the calibration values until the CTs and code reported good voltage, current, power and power factor for the load. Good luck!

If you'd like to hire me to write the code for you at USD$150 per hour, then send me a private message. Otherwise you are going to have to DIY, it will do you good.

LM7805 has the same 1A rating as the LM2575 and should work fine so go for it. Might need a TO-220 heatsink on the LM7805 but those are easy to get.