johanmoberg

Nice and useful thing! Nice work with the inputs and lcd, fast and clear to set up! Add the option to strip the ends and I'd buy it! :)

Probably your motor inducing back-EMF and the display module/Arduino is shorted and resets.Whenever something resets its usually a bad sign :)Try adding a diode in parallel with the motor and the problem should be solved.

Beutiful!

Very nice workmanship and tasteful design! Would buy any day!

This is great project! Nice PCB and the complete robot looks great! How are the results, I can imagine the hardest part will be to distinguish weed? Perhaps you will need some machine learning and a couple of hundreds of weeds for practice? Voted for you, hopefully some of the more intricate projects of this site should get more recognition in the future.

Hej Sorry för sent svar! Ja ibland kör jag dem på full speed, kör dom på samma strömkälla som ledsen som jag pwm dimmar. Men vad konstigt att de låter så mkt, det gör inte mina. Eller ibland när någon fläkt kommer i "otakt" kan den börja låta rejält. Låter alla lika mycket? Har du testat någon annan strömkälla? Ibland kan det ju bli nån transient vid uppstarten som gör att den kommer i "otakt".

En klutt kylpasta och tryckte dit den ordentligt, därefter en droppe klister i varje hörn så den satt fast.

I don't understand how you can control on/off of the driver with that connection? The driver would always be ON regardless of what you set pin 16 to(?) but if set to LOW, it would short circuit,set off the internal fuse of the uC and both bt transceiver and step motor driver would experience a fast voltage drop and reset. If I were you I would start without using pin 16, and later if everything works, connect pin 16 to the sleep pin instead. But if I understand you correctly; everything works if you only change the software? If that is the case I would try; 1) Remove pin 16 connection. 2) Change the delay between the motor steps in the code – Try increasing the time by 100-500%. If it works you should get slow speed. Then reduce this timing to optimize motor.3) Add some decouplin...

I don't understand how you can control on/off of the driver with that connection? The driver would always be ON regardless of what you set pin 16 to(?) but if set to LOW, it would short circuit,set off the internal fuse of the uC and both bt transceiver and step motor driver would experience a fast voltage drop and reset. If I were you I would start without using pin 16, and later if everything works, connect pin 16 to the sleep pin instead. But if I understand you correctly; everything works if you only change the software? If that is the case I would try; 1) Remove pin 16 connection. 2) Change the delay between the motor steps in the code – Try increasing the time by 100-500%. If it works you should get slow speed. Then reduce this timing to optimize motor.3) Add some decoupling capacitors to this circuit to avoid any wired transient behaviors, especially if you are using a high impedance power source. Let me know how it goes! Best of luck!

Of course! Best of luck!

Tack! :)

Thanks! Hehe ok! :D

Yepp! Anything particular you want to know beside this tutorial? I think the best and easiest way is to buy the IKEA fitting (http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/90319065/) and just put your own grow LEDS inside it. I will probably upgrade my grow with automatic EC and PH reading during the winter so check back in some time!

Tackar :D

Hmm no in Sweden. That's too bad, I assumed all their products were global. Perhaps it's coming!

Hehe I've started ordering online from them to avoid buying to much :DThanks and good luck if you build it later!

Ok great! Thank you!

Thank you! Aha the interrupt is just "left overs" i think. The receiver never sleep so it doesn't need the interrupt. At first I was doing one code for both devices, but it got so long i decided to split it up. The push button is not used, it's only the capacitance button which uses pin 2 and 1. Initially it was supposed to be a push button which later on were swapped to the cap. button. Sorry for any confusion. Good luck!

Or you could just buy something like this http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/275168/Brass-Steel-Worm-gear-set-Reely-Module-Type-075-No-of-teeth-60

Thank you! If you want it to stop before being completely rolled down, I would suggest using a worm gear. They are self locking and would hold the load when the motor is powered down. You could grab and modify something like this for your purpose (not my design) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28126Good luck!

Hi, sorry for the late response, missed your comment! Yeah Vcc and Vdd are the same, its just the A4988 sheet that decided to call it Vdd.

Aha no transistor is used for the receiver, its only to save battery for the sender. The HC-12 ground is just connected to ground on the reciever.

Perhaps Jody thought the pads were 220v? Thats what's nearly gave me an heart attack while browsing :D But perhaps attach the hv cable firmly to the board so it can take some force without being pulled out. Also maybe put the HV board in a splash proof/grounded box within the box.

Hi! I use the labels instead of "wire"( I think it gets less messy). Just add wire between the connections with the same name and you should be good to go!

Yes, you can find the stl files under step 7! I can share the PCBs but i would'nt recomend using them for this project. I made these boards to use in 2-3 different projects so some "special" (read not good) solutions are required to get them to work with this specific one. The other project required 6 boards so i made them to suit that project. Since this project only requires 2 boards i think it will be faster for you just using protoboards. Good luck!

If you add a small directional antenna, point it out toward the street and try to bounce the signal off nearby buildings up to your window it might work. I would suggest just purchasing two HC-12 and test with them first before buying anything else. The parts are easy to find, for HC-12 i recommend 5 pack on; http://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-HC-12-433-SI4463-Wireless-Serial-Module-Remote-1000M-With-Antenna-p-980288.html

No not really, except from testing the transmitters at the mailbox to make sure it worked before getting into the details. Can't really say if it´ll work for you as obstacles will reduce the range dramatically. What I can say though is the placement of the antennas makes a big difference, in a well insulated house and behind several thick walls is not a good idea. I haven't noticed any differences during different types of weather but that may very well affect the range.

Thank you for sharing, I love solutions that aren't more complicated than they need to be! I made this to my parents and their mailbox isn't visible until you're standing next to it (hedges and turns).

Good project! Impressive work from 14 y/o, keep it up! Btw if you use the analog pins and analog write you can change the speed of the motor as well!

Thank you!

Aha see step 5, the magnet is attached to the mailbox "door" so when it´s opened it passes the reed switch.

Thank you! Nope, it's just the signal to the motor(created by the step driver) and any type of cable would work. The motor has two electromagnets inside so it needs 4 cables.

Well the 200 mA is for constant draw and very little airflow (only 1.4 W heat). I guess it's a matter of taste how you solve it, I'd say the best solution is to just read the sensor in 30 min intervals (+ life span of sensor). Then you´re about 60-100 mA average current plus it´s located next to the 120 mm fans.

Great design and well laid out instructable. Suggestions for improvement; 1. Remove both relays and use a single transistor with pwm from the arduino to change speed seamless. 2. Remove the vregs, you can input 12 v to the nano and use it´s own vreg to output 5 v. This should reduce the size of the board a lot + cheaper. Good job!