kayakdiver

I have since removed the shop ladder and added a permanent wood ladder on the back. I bifolds up against the back of the trailer and extends about 20 inches above the deck to make it very easy to climb up and down.

I have replaced the 1750 lb. Harbor Freight axle and springs with a 5000 lb. set. This also widened the stance about 6 inches. I towed the original setup many places and even off-road without a problem, but now I have triple confidence in the rig. I also added more reinforcement to the tongue, making it twice as strong as original.

I have since added a a permanent ladder and upgraded the axle and springs to 5000 lb. After many great and cozy trips I am ready to sell this one and upgrade to a fully self-contained RV with interior shower, toilet, fridge, AC, etc. I'll be adding a sunroof to whatever I end up with!

"up against the WIRE" - very clever, just like your Instructable!I should have mentioned how clear and informative I found your Instructable to be as well. Great job!

I LIKE IT!I might consider making the support wires less visible by using a heavy clear monofilament, or more visible by using pull chain, and embedding the terminals into a counterbore in the prints.

Impressive work!

I was a LOT more concerned about inquisitive or accidentally placed fingers... Looks like you did a great job of protecting from that!

Nice job... I voted!So glad you put that chain guard on... I was scared for your kids at first!

Posts like these are why I love Instructables! Great job - I voted!

Awesome work ALL around! Congratulations!!!You would/will be a very successful Aerospace Engineer!

Gonna' do it!Just what I needed to cover some perpetual cracks in my walls.Thanks and best wishes for a healthy, happy baby! signed, Grandpa (X3) Mark.

Thanks! I have received correspondence indicating it is being reproduced and used successfully all around the world. Check out my Powered Sip&Puff design for an idea on adding the pontoons, and note that my pontoons are about 3X bulkier than they actually need to be. http://www.DisabledAdventurers.com/PoweredKayak.html

My published design is custom suited to the Ocean Kayak Malibu Two, making important use of the rear scupper holes as well as factory installed eyelets perfectly placed for this design. Any other kayak would likely necessitate alterations to the design and possibly to the kayak itself, such as adding eyelets, either way requiring access to the particular model.Two main considerations achieved with my design are 1: keeping the paddler's bottom from slipping forward and the paddler sitting mostly upright, accomplished by the padded bar in front of the seat pocket, and 2: keeping the paddler centered in the kayak so they don't lean so far as to capsize, accomplished by the side supports which A: should allow just enough room for the PFD, and B: should not interfere with the paddling efforts,…

My published design is custom suited to the Ocean Kayak Malibu Two, making important use of the rear scupper holes as well as factory installed eyelets perfectly placed for this design. Any other kayak would likely necessitate alterations to the design and possibly to the kayak itself, such as adding eyelets, either way requiring access to the particular model.Two main considerations achieved with my design are 1: keeping the paddler's bottom from slipping forward and the paddler sitting mostly upright, accomplished by the padded bar in front of the seat pocket, and 2: keeping the paddler centered in the kayak so they don't lean so far as to capsize, accomplished by the side supports which A: should allow just enough room for the PFD, and B: should not interfere with the paddling efforts, in other words, snug and just high enough. The seat should not trap the paddler in case they do find a way to capsize.I have not endeavored to commercialize any of my designs or to make them to sell. I make the designs freely available to the public to use as they wish. I don't even care if someone else makes them and sells them; it would just mean more of them out there helping those who need them most. With that said, if it is possible for me to conceive a workable design for your particular kayak I would be happy to help however I can.I'd be happy to consult with you further on this. You can contact me through my website: DisabledAdventurers.com.

Really awesome! I like it best without the protective box and wondering if it might just be strapped (kind of suspended) into a vertical frame instead to maintain the complete openness. You definitely got my vote!

Here is an inexpensive switch from Lowes:https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-Black-Silver-Toggle-Light-Switch/3379562?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-pla-_--_-wallplates-_-3379562-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyp--3JnA6QIVYB6tBh20LwvREAQYASABEgJz3PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here are the Flicker Flame bulbs presented:https://www.ebay.com/i/254513451784?chn=psJust need to find a great bulb for the Fixture now!

I found these Light Sockets on E-Bay:https://www.ebay.com/i/263710837899?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=263710837899&targetid=884558935888&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9030974&poi=&campaignid=9250231366&mkgroupid=92155014165&rlsatarget=pla-884558935888&abcId=1145977&merchantid=108352757&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_6LBg5bA6QIVMB-tBh2oNAq4EAQYBiABEgKoYfD_BwE

I found this in Home Depot:https://www.google.com/search?q=industrial++outdoor+ceiling+light&rlz=1C1GCEU_enUS861US862&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiK4vStmMDpAhWLJDQIHYQqD6kQ1TV6BQgNEMwC&biw=1231&bih=576#spd=16640792150501504729

GREAT JOB! You could have left out the "First Language" disclaimer!

Pressure and vacuum can be generated (and released) at widely varying rates and highly dependent on tube lengths and flexibility in addition to valve switching and their ability to apply appropriate volumes of air. That said, with short and rigid plumbing, and the ability to generate a rapidly changing pressure or vacuum, I'd see no reason why an even shorter response time could not be achieved.In addition to external plumbing and P/V generation abilities, I think one would need to examine a few factors of the P/V switch itself, including: travel distance of the contacts, and volume of air above or below the diaphragm to get the best idea of possible response times. Also consider pressure or vacuum release ports on the opposite side of the diaphragm that "lack of" would oppose c…

Pressure and vacuum can be generated (and released) at widely varying rates and highly dependent on tube lengths and flexibility in addition to valve switching and their ability to apply appropriate volumes of air. That said, with short and rigid plumbing, and the ability to generate a rapidly changing pressure or vacuum, I'd see no reason why an even shorter response time could not be achieved.In addition to external plumbing and P/V generation abilities, I think one would need to examine a few factors of the P/V switch itself, including: travel distance of the contacts, and volume of air above or below the diaphragm to get the best idea of possible response times. Also consider pressure or vacuum release ports on the opposite side of the diaphragm that "lack of" would oppose closing of the contacts.

Thanks Wise... for prompting me to correct this!I did end up using the PSF102 Series 7882-700 as it has the most sensitive activation points at .001 to .004 PSI.The 710 part will work OK but will require slightly stronger Sips and Puffs.

Brussel sprouts ARE the best... And your recipe covers just about everything to make them perfect! The only thing I usually add is something to make them a tad sweeter, even than with the Balsamic vinegar. Slivers of dates are my first choice. Slivers of dried apricots and other fruits can also be used. Without solid fruits, I drizzle a little preheated orange marmalade, apricot jam, or similar, lightly over them.Also, my preference is to precook the bacon a bit and discard most of the bacon grease (entirely for health reasons), but I know I am losing some of the bacon flavor in that process. Thanks for posting this!

Modern TV Remotes transmit a Serial Bit Stream that encodes the various commands much like a Serial Communications data stream, with repeating "packets" of Start Bits, Toggle Bits, and Data Bits, so long as a button is held. The signal is NOT a constant PWM Duty Cycle such as is the case with an RC transmitter set to a specific setting of thrust/deflection/rotation, etc. So, the answer to your question is "no".

It looks like the motor mount plates are high enough that they would have limited the lean/turn ability of the board if they has been positioned forward and somewhat under the wider part of the board.

Great pics and nice write up - thanks!Looks like what is supposed to be your Controller Link is the same as your "Paris truck motor mounts" Link, parts which, BTW, are currently unavailable...- General electric skateboard controllerhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FD1K9Z1/ref=p...

I am currently investigating a redesign of the Motor Controller using a Cytron Technologies (Cytron.com) SmartDriveDuo-30 Dual-30-Amp (Continuous, 80A peak) Motor Driver. This board is under $70 and looks like it has all the features I would need to match the functionality of the RD-160.

WELL DONE! And love the humor too! I VOTED right away!

Thanks for that! I am a few years away from retirement and I have given just that some thought for a little extra income. I think if I started on three at a time I could not only greatly improve and simplify my design but make them in an average of a little over a month each in spare time. My build cost me about $1800, not including the trailer. A new build would be about $2200 and weigh well under 2000 lbs. making if attractive to owners of smaller tow vehicles. I'd probably have to sell them for a little over $3000 to make it worth my retirement time (but not at my current salary).There are a couple thoughts for anyone else considering this build.1. The Harbor Freight trailer is a little on the narrow side. Consider widening the axle and adding a leaf to each side for more stability. Al…

Thanks for that! I am a few years away from retirement and I have given just that some thought for a little extra income. I think if I started on three at a time I could not only greatly improve and simplify my design but make them in an average of a little over a month each in spare time. My build cost me about $1800, not including the trailer. A new build would be about $2200 and weigh well under 2000 lbs. making if attractive to owners of smaller tow vehicles. I'd probably have to sell them for a little over $3000 to make it worth my retirement time (but not at my current salary).There are a couple thoughts for anyone else considering this build.1. The Harbor Freight trailer is a little on the narrow side. Consider widening the axle and adding a leaf to each side for more stability. Also consider adding a stiffener beam from the tongue straight back to the second cross-support of the trailer frame.2. In California, if you keep the total length under 16 feet (like my design), you will be eligible for a Permanent Trailer Tag. Registration and license fees are one and done. You could have fold out sections if you need more space.3. My favorite feature is the fully walkable roof deck, Make sure it is structurally sound and water-tight, and has a guard rail!4. Don't skimp on the insulation. I used aluminized (on one side) Styrofoam panels in every wall and ceiling cavity with the aluminum facing outward as I am more concerned with heat than cold inside. With the sun making darker painted exterior areas almost too hot to touch, I can barely feel any heat at all on the inside.5. The outside Porta-Potty room is a great convenience, especially for the ladies on a cold night. If I did more cold weather camping, I might find a way to pass a little warm air from the main cabin into that room.6. I might add a better, and more convenient shower area, especially if I start doing more cold-weather camping. At the very least, I'd be able to stretch the privacy screen taught all the way around at the top AND bottom. A heated water source with 12V pump would also be a great addition, as would be a way to warm up the shower area a bit. None of this is needed in warm weather, where I just heat several galloons of water per shower needed on the hood of my car.

Looks like you may be reading an Analog pin.The following code displays either: CURRETNLY: 0 - when Pin 13 is shorted to GND, or CURRENTLY: 1 - when Pin 13 is left unconnected to GND.If you don't have the LCD module you can omit all the associated statements.//----------------------------------------------------------------#include <LiquidCrystal.h>#define REVDATE "190125" //YYMMDD#define REVLETTER "-A"//----------------------------------------------------------------int InputPin = 13; //This is a Digital Pinint PreviousInput;//Setup 2X16 LCD - 4 Bit InterfaceLiquidCrystal LCD( 8, 9, 4, 5, 6, 7 ); //LCD PINS: ( RS, Enable, D4, D5, D6, D7 )//----------------------------------------------------------------void setup() {char String[30];…

Looks like you may be reading an Analog pin.The following code displays either: CURRETNLY: 0 - when Pin 13 is shorted to GND, or CURRENTLY: 1 - when Pin 13 is left unconnected to GND.If you don't have the LCD module you can omit all the associated statements.//----------------------------------------------------------------#include <LiquidCrystal.h>#define REVDATE "190125" //YYMMDD#define REVLETTER "-A"//----------------------------------------------------------------int InputPin = 13; //This is a Digital Pinint PreviousInput;//Setup 2X16 LCD - 4 Bit InterfaceLiquidCrystal LCD( 8, 9, 4, 5, 6, 7 ); //LCD PINS: ( RS, Enable, D4, D5, D6, D7 )//----------------------------------------------------------------void setup() {char String[30];pinMode( InputPin, INPUT ); //Turn on 20k pullup resistorsdigitalWrite( InputPin, HIGH ); //to simplify switch inputSerial.begin( 57600 ); //Match this in HyperTerminal!LCD.begin( 16, 2 ); //Start LCD: 16 Chars X 2 LinesLCD.setCursor( 0, 0 ); //Col: 1, Row: 1LCD.print( "INPUT TEST" );LCD.setCursor( 0, 1 ); //Col: 1, Row: 2LCD.print( "PRGM V." );LCD.print( REVDATE );LCD.print( REVLETTER );sprintf( String, "\n\rVERSION: %s%s", REVDATE, REVLETTER );Serial.print( String );delay( 2000 ); }//----------------------------------------------------------------void loop() {int TempInput;char String[10];if ( ( TempInput = digitalRead( InputPin ) ) != PreviousInput ) { LCD.clear(); LCD.setCursor( 0, 0 ); LCD.print( "CURRENTLY: " ); LCD.print( PreviousInput = TempInput ); sprintf( String, "\n\rCURRENTLY: %d", PreviousInput ); Serial.print( String ); } } //----------------------------------------------------------------// END OF CODE SEGMENT//----------------------------------------------------------------

The variable GotCmd could have been named GotVeryLongSipOrPuff. It only gets set above zero when a VERY LONG Sip or Puff is detected. Otherwise, the Counter is checked to see if a (medium) Long or Short command (Sip or Puff) was detected.

Absolutely amazing what incredible talent can do with a little foam and cardboard!!!

Nice job! My daughters taught me a slightly different version of the game and called it Mancala. The rule (they taught) that differs from yours is that when your last bead in a turn ends up in Any Occupied Ambon (but not Home), you pick up all the beads and continue dropping one-at-a-time into successive Ambon pockets including Your Home pocket. Your turn ends when your last bead goes into an Empty Ambon or Your Home pocket. I also think I remember that the opponent didn't get to move their stones into Their Home pocket when one side Ambons were empty, ending the game.I have Not researched to see if this is the most popular rule, but it works, and adds speed, strategy, and fun to the game.

I would suspect that you work just about anywhere outside of North America, the UK, or possibly Japan. I think it is generally agreed that a purely decimal based measurement system ultimately makes more sense and is (or would be) easier to work with than the seemingly arbitrary inches, feet, miles, etc. (as well as ounces & pounds Vs. grams) we use and are way more accustomed to. With that said, neither is more precise; just add a couple of decimal places to get to the precision you desire. Woodworkers alone, however, might argue this doesn't apply when working in 64ths, 32nds, 16ths, 8ths, etc. of an inch.

Half right, in a way... Newton is keeping it down, and Bernoulli is lifting it up. Those two have been at odds (mostly) since the days of Icarus! Cool little trick toy!

In SolidWorks, and probably most other CAD SW, I would OFFSET the cut line a couple thou, close the ends and cut it through to avoid the "collision fit". Other than that, it's a pretty cool little toy!

Beautiful piece of work and absolutely awesome Instructable! Got my vote!

What a nice Instructable... a great reminder how easy it is to let someone you know you are thinking of them! Texting can be fun too, if you don't over-use it...Why am I commenting now...?Imagine one of my favorite photos of my GF, a beautiful Persian gal with hair that often sticks out like she just stuck her finger in a light-socket... A few hours after I got to work this morning, I texted her along with that photo the following: "Remind me again why I love you so much... Oh, never mind... I see it now! My WC!!! (heart emoji)".Referring to her hair, always colorful & fun, and often mismatched (on purpose) outfits, she knows "WC" is short for "Wild Child".

Unless, of course, you have a CAD model of a full-size, working Porsche Carrera!

According to your text... Mission accomplished!On a more serious note... I have MUCH to learn as a writer and I was thrilled to see your Instructable with some great guidelines and ideas. While I am currently (slowly) working on a semi-fictional dramatic action novel, my previous experience is mostly in writing technical documents (mostly in aerospace engineering disciplines) and "how-to" manuscripts (in the pages of KayakDiving and DisabledAdventurers .coms).Thanks again!!!

Yes, little miss ElkeMa, horribly good! And now..., I shall haunt you in my dreams for the rest of my miserable life, and then beyond that for eternity. But oh, will I really be sleeping? Or will it be the heavy doses of Ambien taking control of my inner consciousness, driving me out into the darkness of night to do the things I would never do in my waking hours? We shall see... We SHALL see! ;-} Happy Halloween!

NICE! Great idea for all the unused PVC I have in my stock! I am thinking about how this could be configured and decorated to look like a threatened tarantula: painted black and brown, faux fur added t legs and covering over abdomen, raised head, reaching fore-arms, etc. Also... perhaps replacing the L's with V's and adding an additional leg segment might be a nice (and more realistic) effect.

Cool, fun project - you put a lot of GREAT work into this!I agree with the added motion... It appears the heart may be made of a flexible enough material that (perhaps) an embedded servo or an off-center motorized wheel could cause beating motion. Other than that... One could dissect old printers and get lots of gears out of them for this project.

Yes, that could be a possibility, and if added inboard towards the axle, ground clearance would not be affected so much. With that said, this plan has more than enough storage for my needs. Not shown (due to time for the contest) is a 16 inch wide (sort of) counter top that runs from the forward bed (at top-of-mattress height) to the back interior wall. There is an equally large 9 inch deep drawer hung underneath it. And, I am considering adding another shelf above the starboard window, just because that inside storage space is so handy for books, extra candles, extra clothes, etc...

I am considering adding a permanently affixed ladder that tips out at the bottom during use. The angle makes it MUCH easier to use, especially when carrying things (water for shower, lounge chairs, etc.) to the sun-deck.

Yes, the shelf above the bed does have a 2X2 edge to retain stored items(could have been 1X2). I appreciate your other comments as well.I have used my camper many times now and find I have more than sufficient and secure storage for everything I need for several days out.The easy to access outside storage areas are lockable and are used almost entirely for things I will be using outside: jacks and wheel-chocks, spare tire, battery, BBQ and stove, extra propane, poles for the tarps, tarps, umbrellas, extra water, solar panel, shower floor, etc..In the design, as it is, a triangular storage on the trailer tongue would block the front outside storage as well as interfere with the affixed jack.When I get a chance to detail out the rest of the build I think you will see that I have addressed …

Yes, the shelf above the bed does have a 2X2 edge to retain stored items(could have been 1X2). I appreciate your other comments as well.I have used my camper many times now and find I have more than sufficient and secure storage for everything I need for several days out.The easy to access outside storage areas are lockable and are used almost entirely for things I will be using outside: jacks and wheel-chocks, spare tire, battery, BBQ and stove, extra propane, poles for the tarps, tarps, umbrellas, extra water, solar panel, shower floor, etc..In the design, as it is, a triangular storage on the trailer tongue would block the front outside storage as well as interfere with the affixed jack.When I get a chance to detail out the rest of the build I think you will see that I have addressed a lot of your concerns, and literally ALL of mine.

Thanks KJ! The dark blue matched my original tow vehicle, a 2WD 6-cyl GMC Safari van. I minimized that darker color as it gets very hot when being hit directly by the sun, although the heat didn't pass (much) thru the insulated walls.My new tow vehicle is a graphite colored 4WD 4-cyl turbo-diesel Chevy Colorado truck. The graphite color is pretty dark and has a hint of green in it. Don't know if I'll try painting to match that.I think the white stripe in the channel between the two blue colors was key to a "sharp" look. I also added a few tablespoons of blue to the gallon of grey paint I used on the upper half.I used a slightly lighter grey color on the roof deck because white, although cooler, was way too bright on the eyes.

Thanks JessyRF - flattered, coming from such an accomplished Instructabler (sp?) as you!A few of the photos depict the camper alongside PCH (Pacific Coast Highway) near Mugu Rock in Ventura County, CA, which many will recognize from car commercials.

VERY impressive write-up! I love the "flexibility" allowed by your realistic approach to weight loss. Makes it doable by anyone!

I think if he had (perhaps pinned and then) only clamped the pieces together for the carving and sanding process, he could have taken it back apart for the burning process, keeping in mind that he might have still ended up with some slightly uneven edges after putting it back together due to material loss or shrinkage in burning.Perhaps a better idea is to use a darker, and even reddish, wood for the red stripes and skip the burning altogether, although I think the burned wood looks very "cool".

Yes, it was specifically designed for people with paraplegia or other challenges that limit use of one or both hands.You can find detailed information on my website, which is strictly non-commercial: DisabledAdventurers dot com.

Amazing work! And that's from an engineer that works for AeroVironment, Inc., developer of the first highly maneuverable, sustained flight, winged aircraft - a hummingbird! Take a look at avinc.com and here: http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/video/birds-eye-view-129...Also featured on a cover of Time Magazine.

Not to minimize your awesome project and one of the most impressively written Instructables I have ever seen, but there is likely very little to be patented here, with the existing H/W already providing the technology that leads directly to devices like this. I am not a lawyer, so please investigate this further yourself if you are so inclined! If you ARE so inclined, you must now consider doing so within a year of putting it in the "public domain".With that said... Putting your design in the "public domain" so others can reproduce it, even if they were to sell it, is the most noble of efforts and you will get great satisfaction when others report building your design and helping others with it.I say this with my own experience in designing and documenting assistive de…

Not to minimize your awesome project and one of the most impressively written Instructables I have ever seen, but there is likely very little to be patented here, with the existing H/W already providing the technology that leads directly to devices like this. I am not a lawyer, so please investigate this further yourself if you are so inclined! If you ARE so inclined, you must now consider doing so within a year of putting it in the "public domain".With that said... Putting your design in the "public domain" so others can reproduce it, even if they were to sell it, is the most noble of efforts and you will get great satisfaction when others report building your design and helping others with it.I say this with my own experience in designing and documenting assistive devices that people have suggested I patent. Alas, I am neither salesman or marketeer, so documenting for the enablement of other builders was by far the best choice for me, and hearing of others' success stories have made it all more than worthwhile.

I just want to echo the remark of Ralism51. Well written, by a person of ANY age! And such a worthwhile and selfless application of your talent as well!

Awesome and unique project! While cheaper pencils make this part of the design fairly affordable, I wonder if a little more thought in measuring and shaping the inner wood core could reduce the pencil count by 50+ percent.

Still awesome, unique, and VERY creative! Thanks!!!

My "not so secret" recipe has always been to glaze the inner side with orange marmalade, sprinkle with real bacon bits, and broil them in the oven. This looks REALLY good too and I might even try combining your recipe as a pre-prep to mine. Thanks!

I love the concept of this game, and you made a nice tutorial on its construction!I think it might be cool to have a bottom to the carrying box that slid out leaving the pins to drop to the ground in place for the first setup - just 'cause you can. ;~}

Nice job! Make sure your code doesn't start overwriting previous images in the case of a restart! Too many ways to do that easily, so I'll leave the solution up to you.

You wrote: "I don't know if polarity actually matters here..."It does. LEDs are, after all, Diodes. Hooking them up to 4.5V backwards (for a while) probably won't hurt them, but they won't light up.I'm not surprised these cheap lights, of which I have many and love, don't have modulator circuits to make them more efficient and brighter without affecting life. Perhaps an idea for another mod! ;~}

This is a great project to share with your kids!When I first saw your design, I imagined Cam plates that would be keyed to the Knobs with a Pentagon or Hex pattern so each Cam could simply be repositioned to one of 5 or 6 well defined positions and secured back to the Knob with a pan-head wood screw and washer.

Instructables should have a "LIKE" button! I totally got your "water" joke!