schaude

I really like this idea! To get it watertight I would give the linseed oil method, well known from staining wood, a try! Best would work Boiled Linseed Oil to stain the papercrete. For outdoor / indoor used wood I use rags to apply the oil. I then wait from one hour to two days, depending on material and intended use of it, and place it in a well-ventilated place and, if possible, under sunlight. It helps the linseed oil to harden like a resin. Wood becomes waterproof and more UV-resistant. I suspect that the cement and paper parts (containing wood fibres) will soak a little oil and keep it in the outer "skin" fighting water but keeping the papercrete breathable.

Instead of using any kind of chemical substances in my drinking water as we did in the past with chlorine tablets (and sodium thiosulfate (known from developing fotos in the past) afterwards to make it smell less) I prefer using my small hiking filter that weighs 500 grams and keeps in its ceramic filter floating particles such as bacteria up from 2 microns. For filtering several chemical substances such as smelling stuff in the water I'ld recommend you using a filter that combines charcoal and ceramics. These filters are available in many sizes and prizes.

To power this tool we use a common monitor power supply and 0.3 mm Constantan wire. Works great!I had to learn that the spring I had within the circuit had the biggest resistance, it started glowing and lost its spring power. Better keep it off the tension leading section...

Thank you all for these good advices!In Germany we have five different chainsaw file diameters from 3.2 to 5.5 mm and I got tought how important it is using exactly the right one. Otherways your chain would get even duller. Also the chain file has a file tooth formation that's different from a regular shop file.A way to calculate the right file for your chain and also some helping tools are described in the link here..google may help you translating it and this may help you. Cheers!https://www.stihl.de/saegeketten-schaerfen.aspx#

As a linux user (Ubuntu / Linux Mint 17) I had difficulties with the cheap Nano with the CH340G chip getting it to work properly - the upload of any code didn't work at all. Of course I had installed the Arduino IDE (apt-get install arduino) but was not able to program the Arduino nano. Then I found in a german web article that from time to time you have to reinstall the IDE after a system update of the kernel, so that the serial USB interface works again. I didn't do it but my Nano started to blink when connected to the USB port so I thought it couldn't be out of order and should work anyhow. After connecting it to USB in the /dev folder you should find a file called ttyUSB0 or ttyUSB1 or so. In my /dev folder I had found it. So I started again, setting the Arduino IDE platform tool me...

As a linux user (Ubuntu / Linux Mint 17) I had difficulties with the cheap Nano with the CH340G chip getting it to work properly - the upload of any code didn't work at all. Of course I had installed the Arduino IDE (apt-get install arduino) but was not able to program the Arduino nano. Then I found in a german web article that from time to time you have to reinstall the IDE after a system update of the kernel, so that the serial USB interface works again. I didn't do it but my Nano started to blink when connected to the USB port so I thought it couldn't be out of order and should work anyhow. After connecting it to USB in the /dev folder you should find a file called ttyUSB0 or ttyUSB1 or so. In my /dev folder I had found it. So I started again, setting the Arduino IDE platform tool menu "Tools" and "Board" to "Arduino Nano w/ATmega328" (in my case) and "Tools" "Serial port" to "/dev/ttyUSB1" (in my case). Now, the code from the "Blink" example in the IDE could be uploaded to the Nano board as it should be and the LED started to blink... it's magic!

Well done, man! I'm gonna try that soon! Good for me to understand what you are writing here. If I was a winner of your gift I would prefer number 1, 5 or 6 but they all look nice. I think the girls that I would build this tiny, nice and easy to play instrument with will mostly like these combinations of wood colours. Thanks for sharing this with the rest of the world. I'll vote for it in the contest!

Good idea, I like it! Just take care of not leaving your USB stick or SD card with data on it close to the magnet in your bag. It could get damaged by the strong magnetic field. The same happened to me two times, now I'm careful with those (useful) tiny magnets...

This looks good! But... why not making a big fire under the whole thing and closing the main opening with a door? In this way, your oven concept would work like an oven by not burning your pizza!

Well done, I love your simple and good solution. People being scared of scraping the car with the magnets can put them into a small piece of shrinking tube and heat it up for shrinking. Then the magnets are perfectly covered for this use, you can separate them more easy for using and they won't destroy each other when clicking together. For sure this will work best with rare earth magnets because the old "fridge magnet" style ferrite magnets maybe aren't strong enough to hold both the screen and tubing between car and magnet. Thanks and good luck!

Well, I'm doing my best... thanks!

Thank you! :-)

I get things tidy when repairing bikes with "wet baby towel" or, for chains even better, the oily alternative product from the local drug store or pharmacy.