Introduction: Dog House (cottage Style)

About: I'm a passionate maker and video creator on YouTube!

I made this beautiful dog house from White Cedar and Guanacaste trim.
Here is a video link in case it doesn't work the embedded one:
Dog House Video

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Thank you!

Let me show you how I made this dog house!

Step 1: Measures and Building the Walls

Dog house measures are: Width: 22.5'' - Depth: 25'' - Tall: 34'' - Weight: 55 lbs (25 kg)

This dog house is made for small to medium size dog, modify the sizes for bigger dogs.

All the boards are 3/4'' thick Cedar for the construction, the sub-roof and trim are 3/8'' thick Guanacaste wood.
Only the roof filler was 1'' square cedar (you can always glue up boards to achieve thickness)

You can build this dog house using any materials, I recommend rot resistant woods.

Cut the following in 3/4'' thickness material:
24” x 2 1/4” Cedar (14 pieces for siding boards)

21'' x 2 1/4” Cedar (9 pieces for front and back boards)

5” x 2 1/4” Cedar (10 pieces for short parts forming the door hole)

Step 2: Making the Gable and the Roof

Cut on the table saw:
28” x 4 1/4” Cedar (10 pieces for the roof ''shingles'')
22 1/2" x 2 1/4'' Cedar (2 pieces bottom gable trim at 45 degree angle, see the pic)

I gave you the base piece of the gable, because I was using plans for this house but they were wrong so I made a mistake - find it in the video :)
So, cut on site using the measures from the existing bottom gable board.
There are total of 10 gable boards (5 front, 5 back).
When all the gable pieces are cut, round off the edges with the hand plane/router and glue them together using clamps (see next steps on how I did the walls)

For the roof shingles first cut the groove at the bottom (see pics, groove measures 1'' by 5/8'')
Leave two shingle boards without grooves, those will be the bottom of the roof.

Then cut the 5 degree angle for the roof slope (make sure you have the groove oriented as in the pic).

Step 3: Detailing the Roof Shingles

Shingle boards have groves every 7'' and 3 1/2'' so the grooves overlap (shingle roof style).

You can make as many grooves as you want as long as you follow that pattern (see last pic).

If you don't have a router with ''V'' grove bit prepare yourself for some serious handwork (like i did).

Sharpen your chisels and start cutting those grooves.

Use the cutter to continue grooves on the side and a bit under the shingle (creating full illusion).
Then use medium file to shape the grooves (triangle one would work great).
Finally sand the grooves with 120 followed by 220 grit sandpaper.

Step 4: Sub-Roof

Sub-roof consists of two sheets 28'' by 16'' (one sheet per roof side)
I used guanacaste wood for it, but it would be easier to make them out of 1/2'' thick waterproof plywood.

Join your pieces using your favorite method to achieve the measure for the sub floor.
I used pocket-hole method, screws and glue.

Step 5: Gluing the Pieces for the Walls

Glue the siding pieces to form the walls of the house.
Use as many clamps as you can/have.
Put some packing tape or wax paper the under piece you're gluing to prevent it from sticking (permanently) onto the table.

Step 6: Assemble the Walls

I used pocket-hole to connect sidings but you can screw the sides from the outside (in that case use some dowels to plug the holes so the screw isn't visible).

Step 7: Adding Some Trim

Add some trim on doors using 3/8'' thick material.
Trim should be thick as the door material (in this case 3/4'').
Cut the trim to length on site.

Glue and nail trim in place.

For the gable use 1 1/2'' wide trim.
Cut those angles at 45 where the two roof sides meet and 22,5 degrees where the roof meets with sides.
Take length measures on site.
Attach gable trim with glue and screws from the inside.

Pre-drill all of the holes before screwing (up) so the wood doesn't split.

Step 8: Assembling Roof and the Floor

Cut the boards and glue them to form the floor.
Add the floor to the base and offset it from the bottom until is flush with the entrance hole.

Join the sub-roof to the gable with screws and glue.
Then glue and screw shingles in place (make sure your grooves overlap).

Note: You can see I clamped gable piece to the wall (at the door). It is not glued or attached.
You want the roof to be removable (for easy clean-up and maintenance)

Step 9: Adding the Feet and Side Trim

4 pieces 1 1/2'' x 3'' (3/4'' thick) for legs.
4 pieces of side trim 1 1/2'' wide and check for length on site.
One angle of side trim has to be 22.5 degree to complement gable trim (at 22.5) making this union at 45 degree.

Glue and nail trim into place.
Wipe off the excess glue immediately with a wet clean rag.

Step 10: Finishing the Roof

Add wood filler piece where the roof sides meet (it should be 1''square, again check on site)

I glued and counter-screw mine so I could plane it flush with the shingles.
(make sure screws are countersunk so the plane blade doesn't hit them)

Cut the roof trim for the top.

2'' x 28'' and 2 3/8'' x 28''

One side is 2'' wide and the other one is wider by the thickness of the material (see pic no.4).

In this case the trim is 3/8'' thick so the second trim will be 2 3/8'' wide.

Cut the roof trim for the sides
One side has 45 degree angle and other 22.5.

Glue and nail all the roof trim into place.

Step 11: Adding the Door Arch Trim

Cut the bottom part of the door trim 2 1/4'' wide. The length measure is taken between the two side trims on site.

The door sides trims are 1'' wide (I made them too wide)

Make the arch by clamping bendable piece of wood over the trim.
When satisfied scribe the arch line with pencil and cut with jigsaw.
For the upper part of arch use compass and open it to 1'' then follow the contour from the bottom.
Finish with the jigsaw.

Before gluing the door trim sand everything.

Step 12: Sand Everything!

Sanding time!

Sand all the pieces and parts with 120 grit followed by 220 grit sandpaper.

Then glue and nail already sanded door trim.

Almost there...

Step 13: Signing, Oiling, Sealing....Finishing!

I sign my work with ink transfer onto wood.
I use laser printed mirror image of my design and pass it with thinner onto the wood (it is very easy but takes a bit of practice). Try it with something you have laser printed on a normal paper (gloss and ink-jet print won't work)
Protect signature with one coat of spray lacquer.

Clean any dust from wood.

Use mineral oil to penetrate the wood (optional).

Seal the wood with the sealer, when dry sand lightly with 320 grit.
Then apply 2 coats of transparent finish (poly, lacquer) with sanding between the coats.
Finally I added my own beeswax-oil (1 to 4 ratio) finish to bring natural grain of the wood and give it some natural beautiful shine.

If you apply wax, leave it on the hot sun for at least 30 minutes and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth.

Step 14: Insulation Testing!

I left the doghouse in the hot sun for 4 hours to check insulating properties.
Always use shady place to put your dog-house in, you don't want a sauna party for your dog!

After 4 hours in the blazing heat (it's Mexico) I measured 131 F (55 C) on the roof surface and 70 F (21 C) inside the house making a great insulated house.

You can see how you can take off the roof and easily clean and maintain the interior of the house.

Step 15: Beautiful Home for Your Dog!

After so much work you put into it you will be a proud owner of a great quality and beautiful home for your dog!
And it will last you many years with minimum maintenance!

But wait, that is not all!
You can make one to sell or give as a gift to the luckiest dog in the world!

If you like my dog house project don't forget to comment and vote :)


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