Introduction: Goosebumps Witch
Ever since I saw the witches in the Goosebumps 2 Movie, I wanted to make one for my Halloween yard display. Here is the result.
3D printer or printing service
3D Pen for details
Green String lights
Step 1: 3D Files
I searched some of the free 3D file sites for files I would need for the project. I would open them in Meshmixer to adapted them for my use and easy printing. Some were cut into multiple pieces to reduce the amount of support needed while printing and to make it easier to assemble. I designed the cone and cone tab to fit the shape of the costume hat. The hand for holding the broom was adjusted and separated from the thumb and a peg was added so I could fit it around the shaft. Both hands had a 33.75mm slot added into the arm to accept the PVC pipe used for the frame. I found two different joints to print. A ball joint for the shoulder and simple locking joint for the elbow.
Step 2: Printing the Pieces and Adding Detail
I am lucky enough to have my own 3D printer. These range from a few hundred to thousands of dollars. Everything I printed can be done on an inexpensive printer. They really come in handy for making anything. I used a PETG filament for all of the witch parts. It has a higher temperature melting point so it does very well outdoors in the Florida sun. The hands were printed in black and the pumpkin head was made in translucent with a gyroid infill. Gyroid pattern gives it an organic look for the light to shine through. The black pattern on the outside of the pumpkin was added by hand using a 3D pen. These are very cheap and come in handy for detail work and glueing parts together using the same filament. After the head parts were glued together, the top and neck were painted black. The cone for the hat was printed in vase mode and secured to the top using tabs I printed and screws.
Step 3: Making the Body
The body is the easiest thing to make. A few years ago I purchased mannequin forms to use as molds for making the bodies of my Zombie props. The frame is glued together using PVC glue and the 3D parts are glued with Gorilla Glue and secured with screws for added strength. The inside is wiped down with furniture wax as a release agent and spray foam is applied around a PVC frame. I use old styrofoam to reduce the amount of spray foam needed. Once the front it cured I pile up more spray foam to add the back of the body. I don't have a mold for this so I shave off any extra foam with a long blade utility knife. Notice the center PVC pipe extends from top to bottom. This gives me a channel for the electrical cord to pass through. Make sure to clamp the frame to the front of the form while the foam expands to hold it into position.
Step 4: Final Assembly
When all the foam is dry and cured I add the PVC arms and elbow joints. These are cut to length using the costume as a reference. The arms are not glued together. I use screws so I can position them the way I want and I can take them apart for storage. I cut some pool noodles and tape them around the pipe using electrical tape. This gives the arms more weight to fill out the sleeves. The head is filled with twinkle lights around an old plastic skull and the top with cone is secured. Final thing is to measure the length of pipe needed for the legs so the dress just touches the ground.
Step 5: She Needs a Broom
I save branches from the trees I trim during hurricane season. These come in handy. I used an old branch from a avocado tree for the broom handle and various small branches for the bottom. These are wrapped with electrical tape and covered with twine for a rustic look. This is were the separate thumb helps to fit the branch into the hand. I drive pipes into the ground and slide the PVC legs over them. DONE!
I hope you enjoy the post and that it inspires you to make your own.
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