Hello Instructables community!

Behold my latest project: the KLS V.2, or the Kinetic Last Stand V.2. The KLS V.2 is a semi automatic Knex gun that has a flat range of about 40+ ft and features 6 shot removable horizontal magazines with internal pushers. For those of you unfamiliar to Knex guns, semi automatic guns are a big deal because with Knex weaponry, every ounce of energy that fires the bullet comes from you. Even in traditional Knex repeaters it is you that pulls back the ramrod, all the rubber bands do is store that energy until it is ready to be utilized. However pulling back a ramrod and pulling back a trigger are two very different things, as much more energy can be stored in a pullback length of 8 inches as opposed to a pullback length of one inch. That is why the key factor of any semi-automatic gun is efficiency. When all you have to work with are your fingers and an inch of pullback, you are not going to want any of that energy to go to waste.

This design, based off Louis XIV's "Speed Loader", utilizes the mechanism that he stumbled upon, with just a few improvements. This mechanism works by kind of squeezing the shot out of the gun, which happens to be one of the most efficient ways to utilize the energy of your finger.

With the squeeze of the trigger, you can launch a gray connector 40+ feet, depending on how strong you are, and with this gun's semi automatic capability, it does so at an amazing rate. This is definitely the best weapon I have built thus far, as it is reliable, powerful, innovative, and just plain cool. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Building Warnings:
-This gun requires 1 mandatory broken part, and a couple more for perfect performance. The optional ones will be identified throughout the Instructable.
-THIS GUN EATS UP RUBBER BANDS! Make sure you have plenty of spares (I have about 3000 rubber bands :P)
-*This is a complex build, Follow the directions exactly. Everything is the way it is for a reason.*

Here are some videos so you know exactly what you are building:

Preview Video:

Step 1: The Handle and Lift

Each number corresponds to each image respectively:

1. The handle and lift of the gun. The handle is quite sturdy and comfortable, as there are no rods sticking out. Also contains the lift that will move the round upwards into the firing mechanism.
2. Make two of these, one with the blue rod and one without the blue rod.
3. Make these. Notice that the middle one has a broken orange connector. This does not have to be broken, but it may interfere with trigger pull.
4. Attach to handle plate like so.
5. Connect the muddle layer to the white rod.
6. Attach the final piece you made in step 3. Notice the green rod going through the green connector.
7. Attach the second outer plate you made in step 2.
8. Get these three pieces. The broken piece is the stub of a white rod. You will use the stubless white rod and both stubs so save them.
9. Put the blue rod through the red connectors, and rest the pusher on the orange connector, connecting the pusher to a protruding black rod on the bottom of the handle with a rubber band. (I had a second view but it wouldn't load I'll try again later)

You are done with the handle!

Step 2: The Receiver and Trigger

Each number explains each image respectively:

1. The receiver: this is the most complex part of the gun and includes the firing mechanism, the trigger, the band guides, and the firing bands. We will add the rubber bands in this step because they are very difficult to attach once the gun is built.
2. Make two of the outer plates, one with the blue rods and one without them. *Do not break the Y-connectors. They are not necessary. Pretend they aren't there!*
3. This is the firing mechanism. You are going to make this in steps 4-9.
4. The broken white rode mentioned in step 1. Keep all three pieces.
5. Make these. Notice where the broken pieces are.
6. Connect the pieces as shown. The part indicated will rest where it is unrestrained until later. Just try to keep it in place until then.
7. Obtain the amount of rubber bands you plan to use. I find that 2 #64's and 1 #32 grant the most power with the while maintaining a comfortable trigger pull. Use more or less depending on your grip strength.
8. Place the rubber bands around the black rod as shown.
9. Attach the outer plate of the firing mechanism.
10. Make these parts.
11. Obtain these as well.
12. Attach your first layer of parts to the outer plate where shown.
13. Temporarily remove this part from the firing mechanism.
14. Attach the firing mechanism where shown.
15. Obtain these pieces.
16. Place them where shown.
17. Reattach the part that you broke off in step 13.
18. This is what it should look like so far.
19. Attach your second layer of parts from step 10.
20. Attach the final layer of parts from step 10 and the piece from step 11.
21. The trigger.
22. Obtain these pieces. The electrical tape helps provide comfort and strengthens the trigger. The broken piece is not necessary but is recommended.
23. Put them together like this.
24. Another view.
25. And another.
26. Place the trigger on the blue rod as shown.
27. Attach outer plate.
28. Obtain these pieces for the band guide. Yes, the face was intentional :=I
29. Attach them like so. These will allow the bands to stretch smoothly as well as keep them from interfering with the bullet.
30. Obtain two black/green rods.
31. Place them as shown so that they go through the gray connectors. Do this on both sides.

Step 3: The Stock

Each number explains each image respectively:

1. The stock. A rather simple part, this contains the mag release and can be made longer to accommodate larger magazines.
2. Make two of the outer plates, one with the blue rods and one...I thing you've got the hang of it by now.
3. This is the first layer of pieces, make these.
4. Attach the first layer to the outer plate as shown.
5. The second layer of pieces. Make these and don't forget the black/green rod where indicated.
6. Attach the second as shown.
7. The third layer of pieces, make these.
8. Attach them to the stock as shown.
9. Attach the outer layer of the stock.
10. Make this piece. I used a #16 rubber band but a #32 would work as well.
11. Attach it here.
12. Connect the rubber band to the back of the stock.
13. This is what the finished stock should look like.

Step 4: Put It Together

Each number explains each image respectively:

1. Obtain the Handle from step 1 and the receiver from step 2.
2. Connect them at the connection points indicated.
3. Make sure the lift finds its way between the blue clips.
4. Obtain the stock and the receiver with handle.
5. Connect the stock as shown.
6. Top view, connect the gray connector to the half moon.

Congrats! You have completed the gun!

Step 5: Magazine Assembly

Each number explains each image respectively:

1. The magazine. This is a unique horizontal internal pusher removable magazine that I developed. It is because of the horizontal feeding that this gun can function. This magazine does use a lot of pieces, but can also be made using white connectors and still function perfectly. This just looks better.
2. The outer plate. Make two of these, one with blue rods and one without.
3. Obtain these pieces. They will make up the first layer of the magazine.
4. Attach the first layer to the outer plate as shown.
5. These will make up the middle layer of the magazine.
6. Attach them as shown.
7. The final layer of the magazine. Obtain these.
8. Attach them as shown.
9. Attach the final layer of the magazine.
10. Make these pieces. They will make up the pusher and ammo guides for the magazine. The broken gray connector should be a ball socket. I just didn't have any.
11. Put them together to form the ammo pusher and guides.
12. Break the magazine where shown.
13. Insert pusher under broken part as shown.
14. Reconnect the broken part of the magazine.
15. Obtain a blue rod and a doubled up #16 rubber band.
16. Attach the rubber band to the blue rod as shown.
17. Connect the blue rod with the rubber band to the magazine where shown.
18. Attach a red connector to the magazine where shown.
19. Connect the rubber band to the mag pusher as shown.

You are done with the magazine! Make as many as you want!

Step 6: Loading, Firing, Etc...

Each number explains each image respectively:

1. Extend the firing bands over the band guides.
2. Bring them down and attach them to the blue rods on each side.
3. Pull back the magazine pusher until it clicks. This means that it is locked in place.
4. Insert gray connectors as shown. For some reason, the round will fire upward when loaded in this orientation if there are not enough rubber bands on the firing mechanism. It shoots straight with the rubber bands shown in the Instructable, but if you are using less you may want to flip them and load them opposite the orientation that I am in the picture.
5. Load the magazine beneath the stock.
6. Unlock the pusher by pushing it forward a bit.
7. Aim and pull the trigger.
8. After firing your six shots, pull back the pusher.
9. Press the release to eject the magazine, and repeat steps 3-7!

Congratz on building the KLS V.2 I really hope you enjoy it as much as do!

-Kinetic

Step 7: Looking Ahead...

This picture is of two new ideas of mine.

First person who can tell me what either of them are supposed to do will get a patch!

I am going to tell everyone what they are on Aug 1st so put those minds to work and let me know what you think!

*The bottom left is a magazine and the rest is the components of a gun. THEY ARE COMPLETELY UNRELATED.*

EDIT: Bwbt1 was able to figure out the magazine!

The easy to use shotgun mag:
Based off an airsoft magazine, this top loading, easy-to-use shotgun magazine contains nearly all internal elements, aside from the ratchet you have to wind. It may be a little large considering the kind of ammo it is using, but will be a very fun and effective magazine to use.

EDIT: Crazykiddo figured out the gun!

The RAID:
These are my plans for the Revolving Automatic Insect Destroyer (think about it...). This fully automatic turret rifle will act much like a real gun in the way that it uses cartridges with pre-contained energy to fire off each shot. However unlike a real gun, each cartridge only contains the loaded firing ram, while the cylinder contains the shots. When the trigger is pulled, the white piece will come down on the block trigger of the cartridge and release the ram, in turn striking the cylinder and firing the projectile. Because the ram is no longer where it was (the ram was blocking the cartridge from moving upward), the cartridge will move upward a slight bit, and the rotation of the cylinder will cause the gears directly above the cartridge to rotate, thus ejecting the cartridge, because the cartridge is directly between two of the gear teeth. When the next cartridge takes its place, its block trigger will be moved and the process will repeat.