This is an introduction to a few methods of dyeing yarn with Kool Aid. The great thing about using Kool Aid to dye yarn is that it's non-toxic. This means that a) even very young kids can get involved and b) you can use your regular pots and pans without fear of contamination.

Note on age grading and materials used: this project can be adapted for almost any age of child. If they're old enough to finger paint, then you can pre-knit or crochet a project, and add a thickening agent to the dye liquid (Kool Aid + water + citric acid), like guar gum or other food-safe ingredients. The child can then finger paint, potato print, or whatever they like onto the fabric, and the item can then be steamed as per the usual instructions.

When using the dyes as a liquid - methods b) and c) - the water you add needs to be hot enough to dissolve the Kool Aid, but you can then leave it to cool before entrusting it to kids! All methods require steaming on the hob to set the dye, but all the other stages can be adapted for children.

Supplies

Unsweetened Kool Aid in three primary colours (I used Strawberry, Lemonade and Mixed Berry)
Animal fibre yarn (I used 4-ply sock yarn, which is merino/nylon. Nylon will dye with Kool Aid, but other synthetics won't. Superwash yarn will take more rough treatment without felting)
Citric acid (this is widely available for homebrewing, but you can substitute in vinegar if you prefer. You need one of these two to make the dye stick, or else it will just rinse out)
Mugs, jugs, or heat-resistant glasses x3
Forks or whisks
Syringes or pipettes
Plastic sheeting, aprons, and anything you want to protect surfaces and clothing
Steamer (I used the kind you fit over a saucepan)

Step 1: General Dye Safety (do Not Skip!!)

In this Instructable I've used only food-grade dye materials. This means that if you drink any of the dye (which will taste nasty!) nothing bad will happen to you. It also means that you can use your regular kitchen equipment. ***All*** types of yarn dyeing except for Kool Aid (or preferred brand) or food colouring dyeing require equipment you'll never use for food again. This absolutely includes natural dyeing. Dyeing with onion skins is great fun, and onions are a foodstuff, but the mordant ('fixer') you use to set the dye is almost certainly ***not*** food-safe. Never use commercial dyes, mordants etc. with your regular kitchenware. If you can't use separate equipment, then stick to Kool Aid or food colouring.

Step 2: Prepare and Soak Yarn

For most yarn dyeing, your yarn needs to be in a skein. You can buy yarn in this form ready for dyeing, or you can prepare it yourself from a ball. If winding your own skein, take a large hardback book, and wrap the yarn around it in a continuous loop. Once it's all looped, tie the two ends together, and then tie at least three extra yarn ties threaded through in figure of eights (see picture). Make sure your ties are nice and loose.

My skeins came with two ties in place, so I added a third. This makes it much less prone to tangling.

To soak your yarn, first dissolve 1 tbs citric acid in hot or boiling water. Then add enough tap water to submerse the skeins in. Put your skeins in the water, push them under the surface a few times, and leave for an hour or overnight.

Step 3: Method A): Sprinkling

First, make sure you've got some plastic sheeting or cling film/saran wrap laid out to place the yarn on once it's dyed.

Then take your three colours of Kool Aid, and empty them into three dry cups. Then take a skein of soaked yarn, and spread it out so that lots of the strands are exposed.

Start sprinkling on the Kool Aid, using your fingers or a teaspoon. I like to start with yellow, then add partially overlapping red and blue. This method will give you speckles of colour, plus intense patches of colour where you've used a lot of the dye.

Place the yarn onto your prepared plastic wrap, and make it into a parcel (making especially sure the yellow isn't touching the other colours), then set aside for steaming (Step 6).

Step 4: Method B): Dunking

This method is especially nice for showing how overlapping the three primary colours gives you new colours.

Then, add a teaspoon of citric acid to each dye cup, and dissolve in hot water (you can also dissolve the citric acid separately in hotter water, then let it cool and add it to the dye liquid before using). Use a fork or whisk to make sure everything's dissolved nicely. You need enough water so you can give the yarn a proper dunking.

Pick up your skein, squeeze any excess water out, and dunk half of it into the yellow. Let it drip a bit back into the cup, then rotate it a little, and dunk half again (overlapping with the yellow) into the blue. Repeat with the red. You should have the whole skein covered in overlapping dye colours. Make into another parcel, and set aside for steaming (Step 6).

Step 5: Method C): Syringes

This method is fun and chaotic - it's also good for using up the last of all your dye liquids.

Randomly squeeze colour onto the yarn using pipettes or syringes, starting with the three primary colours. You can then start mixing new colours in your dye cups, using a little or a lot of the primary colours. In case you need reminding, all three together will make brown!

Wrap your yarn in a parcel same as in Step 4, and put aside for steaming (Step 6).

Step 6: Steaming

Steam your yarn parcels for at least 20 minutes (I generally go 45 just to be safe). I used a stovetop steamer on top of a pan of boiling water.

After the time's up, turn off the heat and leave the yarn to cool.

Step 7: Rinsing and Drying

Rinse the yarn first in warm water, then soak it for twenty minutes in more warm water + washing up liquid/dish soap. Rinse for a final time in cold water.

Then squeeze the water out (try wrapping the yarn in a tea towel, then squeezing it over the sink), and hang/drape it somewhere warm to dry.