There once was a website called K’nex Innovation. Aaaaand then there was not. Luckily some was archived. So I present to you the NAR instructable! The pics are mine but the idea is not. I successfully integrated the barrel of the NAR into the body of the TR8-2020 which is basically a TR8-2018 with a few extra pieces added. It works very well with that trigger. Credits to Oodalumps for the original NAR and credits to KILLERK/K’nex Lego Maniac/Kyle_M for the TR8. Here’s the link to the TR8-2018, I used the stock (modded slightly) and trigger from this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Toy-Knex-Gun-TR8-2018/

The NAR, also know as the Not a Rectangle, and the Untangle is a K’nex gun which uses a transfer piece in the front to increase the amount of bands than can be used significantly. Range varies. It can shoot around 100 to 200 feet. I prefer a TR8 due to the range being the same or better and the fact that it's a repeater.

Step 1: Barrel

Make the barrel. You will need pliers or a flathead screwdriver to save your fingers! Black rods work better than the other kinds for this but, they are a bit harder to snap in. If you only have a small amount of black rods like I do, save the others for the stock.

Picture 3 shows you a couple different options for the transfer piece. You could also use half an orange connector or a single slot connector with part of the top cut off. All work about the same. The grey LEGO thing is a 1x2 plate with a flat 1x2 plate on top. The next 3 pictures show how to fit your chosen transfer piece in.

Step 2: Handle and Stock

The handle and stock are slightly modified from the Kyle_M’s TR8-2018. The cut rods aren’t needed. I didn’t use tires on the handle because I don’t have any in the right size.

Step 3: Firing Pin

Snap the ball socket onto the black rod. Then wrap the connection about 3 times tightly with electrical tape. Make sure to tape just below the line on the ball socket. Then push up the tape towards the ball socket so it isn’t a slope. Wrap an old (or new, but that’s kinda a waste) #64 around as shown. Then tightly wrap the end and the band (don’t get any tape below the band) with 3-4 layers of electrical tape. Optionally, slide an o-ring on the pin right in front of the ball socket section. Lastly, slide a 1 slot connector onto the firing pin. If this is unclear, just tell me and I’ll make a video.

Step 4: Final Assembly

You’re almost finished! The pin guide would ideally be a black rod. The rods in the stock should also be black, most importantly the top ones. The tape reinforcing the connection between the micro black rod and the micro to standard connector could be replaced with hot glue. In fact, it would be stronger. Ideally you would use that orange part that look similar but I didn’t have any when I made this instructable so I just did it like this.

Step 5: Banding and Loading

Add two #32’s on the yellow connector with the tubing attachment point as shown. Then add a light grey connector on the front white connector. Add up to 10 #64’s one by one to prevent tangles as shown while avoiding the bands on the yellow connector. Disconnect the top two grey rods temporarily from the trigger area. Separate one side of the slide and add it and the other side onto the grey rods you disconnected earlier. Then reconnect the grey rods. Connect the slide to the grey connector on the pin as shown and then reconnect the left side of the slide. Hook the two #32’s onto the slide.

To load it, pull back the slide until the trigger blocks the firing pin and let it fully return to the front of the gun. If the slide won’t go all the way forward, remove the #32’s from the front and hook them over the light grey connector to increase tension. Next, put a rod or a piece of finammo in the front and push it in as far is it will go. When you want to shoot, simply pull the trigger. Never fire unless the slide is forward! Also, don’t ever dry fire!