Introduction: Narrow Overlap Headwrap for Twi'lek Lekku

About: I like to sew and make things. Hopefully what I share can be helpful to others.

The main purpose of headwraps is to help secure the lekku onto your head, and also, cover the seam between the base of your head and the bottom of the lekku scalp.

My first headwrap pattern left the lekku seam behind the neck exposed, because the closure was a simple tie.
My second headwrap pattern was very tall, thus requiring more fabric to make.

This third pattern is more narrow while also covering the back of the head.

Step 1: Download the Narrow Overlap Template


  • There are no seam allowances on this template. You will need to add seam allowances depending on what finishing methods you use. (After you add seam allowances, it then becomes a pattern piece)
  • I prefer my ear buds to sit at almost eye level.

Step 2: Print Out the Template

  • The template is two pages, and is going to be "cut on the fold" because it's a symmetrical shape from right vs left sides.
  • When printing the template, make sure the box "Fit to page" is not checked.
  • The hole for the earbud should measure 1.5" wide
  • These two sheets must attach together to assemble 1 template.

Step 3: Assemble the Template

  • Hold the pieces against a window to help you align the pages into one.
  • Tape both sides of the pages together.
  • Then staple through both pages for more stability.

Step 4: Cut Out Your Template

  • Cut out your template.
  • Now you have a base for modifying your template!
    (This is usually called a sloper or block, because it is the basic version of an item from which different versions of that item can be made. It has no seam allowances. Ex: from a bodice sloper/block you can make a sewing pattern for a button up blouse, strapless bustier, and so on.)
  • As mentioned before, there are no seam allowances added to this pattern piece.

I omit seam allowances because that changes depending on what kind of headwrap you make.

  • If you are using leather or super thick vinyl, it might not be necessary to finish the raw edge
  • I prefer to use extra wide double fold bias tape to finish the raw edge of my headwraps.
  • Or, you can add a seam allowance to fold the edge over, and top stitch.

Step 5: Check Your Template

  1. Retrace the template twice into new paper, to make a left side and right side of the template.
  2. Tape these two pieces together into one whole template.
  3. Mark the center front of the headwrap to help you align it correctly on your head.
  4. The center back should overlap like the above photo***.
  5. Put your lekku on per your usual routine: this could mean pinning up your hair, putting on a wig cap, etc, before putting your lekku on.
  6. Put the template on, seeing how you like it. Mark any needed changes with a pencil

***The exact amount of overlap on the back will depend on many things:

  • how long your hair is
  • how you wear your lekku
  • the thickness of your finished headwrap

Step 6: (Optional) Modify Your Pattern Piece

Any changes to your headwrap prototype should be made here, when you've got a paper mock up.

It's a lot cheaper and easier to make mistakes on a newspaper mock up.

  • Put your lekku on per your usual routine: this could mean pinning up your hair, putting on a wig cap, etc, before putting your lekku on.
  • Then put the mockup on, securing the center back with tape.
  • While wearing the mockup, draw changes you like on one side.
  • Take off the mockup, make the changes, and put the mockup back on.

This photo is an example of different changes you can make (shown on the right side):

  • lowering the earbud hole
  • flattening the face outline
  • rounding out the chin flap

Once you're satisfied, retrace this new shape to a new sheet of paper.

You've made Version 2.0 of your headwrap!

Step 7: Add Seam Allowances

Now that you've got your final pattern piece, add your seam allowances, if any.

I use a clear ruler and mechanical pencil to accurately mark my seam allowances.

  • no seam allowance is needed if you're finishing the edge with extra wide double fold bias tape
  • if your fabric won't fray and doesn't need reinforcement (ex: leather, heavy vinyl), you don't need a finished hem
  • seam allowances are important if you're going to fold the raw edge underneath and top stitch the hem

Step 8: Sew Your Headwrap

Here is one I made.

It shows more of the lekku scalp, and is more contoured to the head, than my previous overlap headwrap.


  • Don't sew the velcro onto the overlap area until you're done making the headwrap, trying it on periodically to check the fit.
  • I also add elastic at the side flaps of the headwrap. This helps keep the headwrap from pulling away from the face.

Questions? Find me on Instagram or Facebook

Check out my other headwraps:

Step 9: Note About Velcro Placement

Here is rear view of an overlap headwrap.
Notice how the velcro is placed:

  • the "hooks" side of the velcro is sewn on the inside of the headwrap on the right side
  • the "loops" side of the velcro is sewn on the outside of the headwrap on the left side

Velcro must be placed wherever the layers of material overlap. On my headwrap, the overlapped area is about three inches wide. If your headwrap overlaps less or more, remember to note that when placing your velcro. You don't want too much (it will extend past the overlap and be seen), and you don't want not enough (weak closure strength).

Happy crafting!