JGJMatt

Hi RabindraI agree with you 100% on the efficiency of cc drivers and switch contact degradation that's why I use cc drivers (but I do hate the PWM strobing) on my 10w CREE flashlight builds but that's a whole other beast. At only 300ma these 1w led's draw less than the original incandescent bulbs and the Maglite switches have pretty heavy duty contacts plus for this small 1w project I can't seem to justify the extra $10 for the cc driver (I tried to keep the cost down as much as possible for this project).For high power builds I would definitely recommend people taking your advice and using a cc driver.The zip tie is only used on the battery housing to have a loop for your finger to pull the housing out of the flashlight, it's just a lil quick'n dirty solution...heheI'd love if you share…

Hi RabindraI agree with you 100% on the efficiency of cc drivers and switch contact degradation that's why I use cc drivers (but I do hate the PWM strobing) on my 10w CREE flashlight builds but that's a whole other beast. At only 300ma these 1w led's draw less than the original incandescent bulbs and the Maglite switches have pretty heavy duty contacts plus for this small 1w project I can't seem to justify the extra $10 for the cc driver (I tried to keep the cost down as much as possible for this project).For high power builds I would definitely recommend people taking your advice and using a cc driver.The zip tie is only used on the battery housing to have a loop for your finger to pull the housing out of the flashlight, it's just a lil quick'n dirty solution...heheI'd love if you share some of your designs on Instructables as I'm looking at building a laser powered flashlight that I will need a custom cc driver for.

Hi!Thank you, I've used constant current drivers in the past but now mostly use resistors in my flashlights as I never like to discharge my Li-ion batteries below 50% and if I do go below 50% I prefer just losing a bit of brightness with the resistor compared to the flashlight completely dying with CC modules.

Thank you, I have about 3 Maglites with these bulbs and they've been running flawlessly for many, many hours. I also made a few different bulbs to switch between IR led, red, UV etc.

I'm from South Africa and unfortunately shipping from here is ridiculously expensive otherwise that would be an excellent idea.

Thank you, probably true but I thought there's probably a lot of people out there that also has some old Maglites laying around......and I'm always looking for things to tinker with...hehehe

Thank you! :D

I'm currently experimenting with making my own auto transformer which should be easy to replicate. I will update as soon as I get it working.

You could also try using the foil from an old capacitor. Capacitor foil has a harder temper and are very similar to commercially available ribbons.

Hello, have you tried adjusting the tension on the foil ribbon? I found that it takes a lot of trial and error to get it just perfect otherwise you get a lot of resonance.

They are 15mm apart.

Thank you, I struggle a lot with my hands as I work with chemicals and this does wonders!

Hello, what are you driving it with?

Thank you!

Hi, did you design your own main body?The first thing I would do is to make the foil ribbon a little narrower and to put the magnets on the inside so that they are closer to each other and the foil. All of the distortion I had came from the foil ribbon not being tensioned correctly, I would reccomend you pull the foil a little tighter and see if it improves or gets worse.

Thank you!... Personally I think the wood would look very good and might even change the sound slightly.As for the embossing of the foil, it's definitely going to need a lot of experimenting. I think making the folds too deep might make the ribbon "sloppy"? Whereas a fold along the length of the ribbon might tighten up the upper frequencies, sacrificing some bass.Luckily it is easy to swap out the foil for a different design.

Thank you!

Thank you for your insight, it helps moving forward. I also had an idea that i'd like to test instead of the foil... if you take kapton tape and then form a "coil" on it (like maggies) then cover the coil with another piece of kapton tape, basically a long planar driver.

Thank you.

Hi, The adhesive side of the copper tape is not conductive that's why I first wrapped the piece of copper tape around the main body so that the conductive copper side makes contact to the underside of the foil ribbon. As for the blu tack: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu_Tack hope that helps.

Thank you so much Maria!

Thank you, there's definitely still a lot of experimenting to go. Next I want to move to bar magnets.

Thank you so much. It didn't even cross my mind to include a printed gear, it's a brilliant idea and I will definitely update it with a printed embossing tool. As for the transformer... I'm still looking for a suitable one as here in South Africa we have very limited stock to choose from but I will update with a link to a suitable one from a US site.

Thank you so much!

Can I just say WOW!...that's one awesome setup.I've heard some amazing reviews on the Newforms. I wonder if those ribbons on the Newforms are driven by a transformer or does their sheer length make up for the impedance.I always wanted to get some ribbon tweeters to pair with my speaker builds but they are just so fragile (my main listening rig is in my workspace).

Thank you, I used a 5 ohm 40W resistor. With the resistor the volume is a little louder than standard over ear headphones.

I'm very glad to hear that and I'd love to see some pictures of your build! As for the transformer I'm still looking for a link to a suitable transformer but I'll let you know as soon as I find something.

Thank you very much!

Thank you so much!

Hello, All grounds are tied together and connected to GND - , Output from your touch switch goes to PWM, positive from battery goes to + and LOAD goes to the voltage input of the amplifier.

Thank you, you definately should!

Thank you very much.

Thank you, yes my thoughts behind the cutout was to increase the flexibility above the joint. I think a screw would work with some thread lock added as these panels vibrate quite aggressively. Another option is to use some double sided tape, it's easier to remove and still allows movement.

Thank you.

Touché...I should have been more clear, rather who thought craft store ply or cardboard could sound so good.

I definitely want to try shellac, unfortunately I'm struggling to find any locally. Also if you are able to find some tone woods give that a try too.

Thank you very much and you absolutely have to, they are so addictive!

Thank you so much :)

Thank you very much! :) The prize goes straight to building a better workshop.

The mid woofer fires upwards, the tweeter enclosure has a reflector cone on the bottom that directs the woofers sound to the sides. The passive radiators are situated in the opening between the electronic enclosure (base) and the main woofer enclosure.

I've been looking at an alternative, something like a raspberry pi that connects directly to Spotify and can stream to multiple speakers would be nice.

That's a brilliant idea!

This Instructable looks promising: https://www.instructables.com/Raspberry-Pi-Multi-Room-Audio-MobileTabletPC-Contr/ The design can easily be modified to fit the extra electronics.

Thank you for the feedback, Instructable updated.

Thank you very much, yes I'm planning to update the Instructable on Monday with some more pictures and more in depth instructions I just wanted to get it published in time for the contest.

Hi, you can get it at a hardware store as they are used for brazing.