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7Instructables3,969Views245CommentsFINLANDJoined January 28th, 2016
Gee.. Me 65+ years. My first contact with them logic's was about in them mid-70's. There was allso something called 'DTL-logic', and ewen RTL-logic's, can you imagine that?. My first contact with a 'microcontroller' was a 1-bit data, 16-bit adress, (yes You read it right, one bit & 16 bit), and concidered as 'wery' powerful as a microcontroller, because it had 'built-in' them all functions, I/O, RAM, EPROM (but not with EEPROM or FLASH, they were not invented, yet).

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  • Listrick L585 AC DC Portable Power Supply / 158,000mAh Power Bank / 585Wh Solar Generator

    NONE of Your cables or connectors could hande 158,0000mAh.!! That is 158,000mAh = 158Ah. Will Your connections/cables withstand 158Amps?Then You say ”The Listrick L585 has built-in 585Wh (26,364mAh 22.2V, tested) lithium battery”There’s a huge difference in 26,364mAh 22.2V, and 158Ah. (mA is a thousand of a Amp).A kind of a 150Ah battery is usually used in heavy duty mashcinery like trucks, ships..etc.Gee….. P=U*I, ( Power equals to Volt multiplied with Current). Howe hard can that be to understand?Fair enough, put that equation to Your solution …. And what comes out?

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  • How to Desolder Electronic Components From Circuit Boards - 7 Tips & Tricks | Free Parts for Projects!

    This Instr. was so "full" of sponsored ads. with them links to buy this and that and + and+++++ so I skipped to read it at all

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine3 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    Actually You could adjust a servo with this circuit. Just make the frequence to be between 1ms to 2ms, (1000-2000us =microseconds) 1ms for the home position 0 deg, 1,5ms for the 90deg and 2ms for the end position 180deg.

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  • KISELIN commented on Bean_MD's instructable The Back Pocket Soldering Kit3 months ago
    The Back Pocket Soldering Kit

    I've had a propane gas soldering/hot air/flame through unit for som 20 years now and used it out there somewere dozens of times. Works perfect.Sure, Your Instr. shows a "cheap" solution, however, if You need to use such a thing as in Your instr. go instead and buy a proper reliable butane solder/hot air gun.

    You are on right track mr Bean, (combined with Mc Gyver, You know the guy from TV), go on, don't care of criticism

    Douglas. Please don't try to build this. You propably burn your fingers and more, coarsing the medical care consireable costs to the comminity

    Be careful by what You are about to delivere!! Liabelity?

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  • KISELIN commented on HOBBY TO MAKE's instructable How to Make a 36,000 Mah Powerbank ?4 months ago
    How to Make a 36,000 Mah Powerbank ?

    Hi! No affence here, but just kind of notice’s  to clearify some details in Your Instr.1.The base unit for current in the SI-system is a capital “A” (Amperes), and it’s declared as capital “I” in electrical systems e.g. P= U*I, P=power; U=Volt; I=Current.So, the main unit is written in capitals and the fractions/multiplications of it are written with the lower case letters. Them capacity of batterys are often given in “milliAmps/h”. Them larger batterys, like Your car battey, gives You them Amps. Don’t get diffused, because 36,000mAh equals to 36A, and that’s NOT the case with them Li-Ion batteys from a laptop, 3,6A would seem more correct.2. First You call them LI Ion batterys, then You call them LI Po batterys, there’s...

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    Hi! No affence here, but just kind of notice’s  to clearify some details in Your Instr.1.The base unit for current in the SI-system is a capital “A” (Amperes), and it’s declared as capital “I” in electrical systems e.g. P= U*I, P=power; U=Volt; I=Current.So, the main unit is written in capitals and the fractions/multiplications of it are written with the lower case letters. Them capacity of batterys are often given in “milliAmps/h”. Them larger batterys, like Your car battey, gives You them Amps. Don’t get diffused, because 36,000mAh equals to 36A, and that’s NOT the case with them Li-Ion batteys from a laptop, 3,6A would seem more correct.2. First You call them LI Ion batterys, then You call them LI Po batterys, there’s a huge difference between Li-Ion and Li-polymere batterys. I dont know of them using Li-Po batterys in laptops, correct me if I’m wrong? 3. You ”ABSOLUTELY” need to have a charger to monitor ”EWERY” cell individually

    Hi! No affence here, but just kind of notice’s  to clearify some details in Your Instr.1.The base unit for current in the SI-system is a capital “A” (Amperes), and it’s declared as capital “I” in electrical systems e.g. P= U*I, P=power; U=Volt; I=Current.So, the main unit is written in capitals and the fractions/multiplications of it are written with the lower case letters. Them capacity of batterys are often given in “milliAmps/h”. Them larger batterys, like Your car battey, gives You them Amps. Don’t get diffused, because 36,000mAh equals to 36A, and that’s NOT the case with them Li-Ion batteys from a laptop, 3,6A would seem more correct.2. First You call them LI Ion batterys, then You call them LI Po batterys, there’s...

    see more »

    Hi! No affence here, but just kind of notice’s  to clearify some details in Your Instr.1.The base unit for current in the SI-system is a capital “A” (Amperes), and it’s declared as capital “I” in electrical systems e.g. P= U*I, P=power; U=Volt; I=Current.So, the main unit is written in capitals and the fractions/multiplications of it are written with the lower case letters. Them capacity of batterys are often given in “milliAmps/h”. Them larger batterys, like Your car battey, gives You them Amps. Don’t get diffused, because 36,000mAh equals to 36A, and that’s NOT the case with them Li-Ion batteys from a laptop, 3,6A would seem more correct.2. First You call them LI Ion batterys, then You call them LI Po batterys, there’s a huge difference between Li-Ion and Li-polymere batterys. I dont know of them using Li-Po batterys in laptops, correct me if I’m wrong? 3. You ”ABSOLUTELY” need to have a charger to monitor ”EWERY” cell individually

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  • KISELIN followed Electronics, Audio, Kits, Sensors and 3 others channel 7 months ago
  • KISELIN commented on FarsinHamza's instructable LED CHASER With IC555 and IC40177 months ago
    LED CHASER With IC555 and IC4017

    Hi. Your on "right" track with your ible. Howewer, take a TV-reciver: it displays , (in Finland), 2x25 frames, (overlapping each other), ower your screen, thus giving you a illusion of a movement. Same thing at Movie theatre, with 25 frames/second. So if you speed up yuor LED-display with 8 leds to a speed of ~50fr./sec./8 LEDS to lit in a sequence/second, with only 1 lit at a time. The speed for ewery individual LED would be 1sec./50/8 = ~10msec./LED. That would be a speed of 100Hrz. And that would make it to seem if they "ALL" were lit at the same time. Make that freq. to be in 10's of KHz ~ up to MHz and you could lit up thousends of LED-s in a seq. and still it looks like to be lit all at the same time. So, the speed is not a issue here

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  • KISELIN commented on FarsinHamza's instructable LED CHASER With IC555 and IC40177 months ago
    LED CHASER With IC555 and IC4017

    Oh Boy! Take a look at the tech. spec. of a 4017, and You will find out that it’s capable of MHz with its output, (that's in a class of ”million’s”/second). BUT ”STILL” with ”ONLY 1” output active at a time, so that said.

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  • KISELIN commented on FarsinHamza's instructable LED CHASER With IC555 and IC40177 months ago
    LED CHASER With IC555 and IC4017

    Actually: 1.) The frequency of the shift can go up to MHz, (MegaHerzts = millions of changes/second), still, "JUST ONE" bit active at a time, so that.2.) The human "brain" can't make a difference in of an eye seen thing with an alternating speed of more than 25 "frames"/second, (e.g. "The movies" play appr. 25-50 "still-pictures"/second). That's why there "seems" to be more than one LED's lit at the same time. Take a look at the tech. spec. of 4017

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  • KISELIN commented on FarsinHamza's instructable LED CHASER With IC555 and IC40177 months ago
    LED CHASER With IC555 and IC4017

    I just "LOVE" the 555. I've done dozens of app's with it since early '80,s, (Yes, allmost 40 years ago). Your ible is wery nice for a beginner, it gives a "hum" of the functionality of the 555 and the digital side of functions with the 4017. However, because only one output of the 4017 is active at a time (HIGH), wouldn't it be smarter to have only 1 resistor common to all, (the cathode side)?

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  • Ink Removal From Soda Cans

    Buahahhaa.... You gave me a good laugh :)) But couldn't You "reprint" the "bar-code" oooh..my bad.. e.g. my printer want print on round surface neither will it stick on aluminium :)) joke, joke, but true

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  • KISELIN commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use9 months ago
    10 Woodworking Tricks the Pros Use

    Wow..I have some Instr,'s in them "electronic's", but I enjoy to follow them all cathegorious Your hints here are "SUPERB". (how many times have I sawed to a wrong measurement? guess 378 times). Don't never ewer give me a tool in my hand: Saw, Hammer, Drill et.c... but only them elctronics tool for me.BOY... I lowed to read Your Instr. here .

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  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine9 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    Ooh... the picture of me is when I was 15years old in 1966. My 1'st native language is Finish, (reads Suomi), my 2'nd native language is Swedish, (reads Svenska), I can helpfully understand Norveigian, Danish. I guess I can read and write, speak, and understand the heard spoken English good enough to get by. Let's have a smile here okay?

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  • KISELIN's instructable My "Owerkill" of POWER Supply's weekly stats: 9 months ago
    • My "Owerkill" of POWER Supply
      756 views
      15 favorites
      0 comments
  • KISELIN's instructable ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer's weekly stats: 9 months ago
    • ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer
      659 views
      17 favorites
      2 comments
  • KISELIN commented on Nikus's instructable 555 Useless Machine9 months ago
    555 Useless Machine

    OK. I'll take a course in English, if You promise me to take a course in Finnish or Swedish, and then we can conyinue this discussion

    Gee.. My B,, BRB.. LOL.. to ? ENG.. UK.. or US? again LOL.. them f***. dont? If You don't understand them ible's here wroten, (they come from Global Wide, surprice.. surprice there's a WORLD beoynd the USA), maybe this Instutructable site should be forbidden for NOT US people?

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  • KISELIN commented on KISELIN's instructable ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer9 months ago
    ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer

    OK.As You can see in Step 2, (the picture), I’m using a ”ribbon cable” with IDC-conectors, 6-poles, head to head: UNO ICSP <--> Programmer J1. The problem for me was, as I discribe in Step 1, the ”reset” on UNO ICSP pin 6.This is the ”HARD” reset on UNO. There’s a way to go around that but I’m not doing it. That’s why I rather connect the ”reset” to pin 10 (SS) on UNO.Doing this I got another problem: To separate the ”reset/ SS” lead from the ribbon cable.Well, I did it this way: 1. Measure the ribbon cable to a length reaching from Prog. <- > to UNO pin 10.2. Separate the ”reset” lead from the cable3. Cut them rest 5 leads to reach to the ICSP4. Attach the IDC-housing to the cabl...

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    OK.As You can see in Step 2, (the picture), I’m using a ”ribbon cable” with IDC-conectors, 6-poles, head to head: UNO ICSP <--> Programmer J1. The problem for me was, as I discribe in Step 1, the ”reset” on UNO ICSP pin 6.This is the ”HARD” reset on UNO. There’s a way to go around that but I’m not doing it. That’s why I rather connect the ”reset” to pin 10 (SS) on UNO.Doing this I got another problem: To separate the ”reset/ SS” lead from the ribbon cable.Well, I did it this way: 1. Measure the ribbon cable to a length reaching from Prog. <- > to UNO pin 10.2. Separate the ”reset” lead from the cable3. Cut them rest 5 leads to reach to the ICSP4. Attach the IDC-housing to the cable, thus using a ”DUMMY lead” to replace the ”reset” lead5. You need to use this ”DUMMY lead” because it’s nearby impossible to get them leads to line up in the housing without it.6. Them indicators on Prog. J2 are connected to UNO pins 7,8,9 (see the schema in Step 3)I hope this give You the info You asked for?

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  • How to Make a 3S 18650 Battery Pack

    Hi. Isn't the charger U'r using here a balanced charger for "2" batterys only? You have 3 batterys here. As I understand the 3'rd battey wan't be charged? Hmm.. maybe I'm wrong

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  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit1 year ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    You are so right. How "stupid of me"? I kind'a missed that with a booster. It's absolutely correct as You discribe it. 1 question: what kind of UV-led you used? UVA or UVB or could there be some pros. by using a "mix" of both. Gonna absolutely build one and "add" a timer there. For now I have a "555"/relay based timer for my 300W "Solar UVA" lamp, (yes, you read it right, three hundred Watt), :)

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  • KISELIN completed the lesson Stomp Rockets in the class Rockets Class1 year ago
  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit1 year ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    You'r right, howewer I made my comment because them most people don't have a 36V PS. Allmost ewerbody got some sort of a 12~24V power supply, that's why another kind of grouping.

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  • KISELIN commented on wduraes's instructable Toastmasters Timer1 year ago
    Toastmasters Timer

    Hi. Good enough for the purpose. I would add a function here: Use a "fade in the next lifght to be and fade out the actual light, in a way that they "owerlap" each other. This results in a "graceful" reminder to the speaker, instead of "Oooh... it's Yellow allready... How much time do I have left? "

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  • KISELIN commented on DIY Circuits's instructable Modular UV LED Exposure Unit1 year ago
    Modular UV LED Exposure Unit

    Nice job. I’ve been making of these photores. PCB’s for decades (~ 30+ years), both single- & double sided. Yet, thanks to You, I’ll got some good hint’s here. I’ve be’n allways using a ”solarium UV-light” but that’s NOT practical thus be’ing a 300W one. Gonna build a LED-frame like Your’s.Some hint’s from my behalf: 1. After developing, rince the PCB under such hot water You ewer can, thus making the PCB-copper to be warm. This decreases the etch time. 2. I use to clean the PCB from the resist ”before” drilling, and I’ll do that with ”technical pure aceton”, because the nail-polish-remover has oil in it, and that’s not so good.3. If You use ”acid” etching, put the...

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    Nice job. I’ve been making of these photores. PCB’s for decades (~ 30+ years), both single- & double sided. Yet, thanks to You, I’ll got some good hint’s here. I’ve be’n allways using a ”solarium UV-light” but that’s NOT practical thus be’ing a 300W one. Gonna build a LED-frame like Your’s.Some hint’s from my behalf: 1. After developing, rince the PCB under such hot water You ewer can, thus making the PCB-copper to be warm. This decreases the etch time. 2. I use to clean the PCB from the resist ”before” drilling, and I’ll do that with ”technical pure aceton”, because the nail-polish-remover has oil in it, and that’s not so good.3. If You use ”acid” etching, put the PCB facing down in the bath, reason: in the reaction it creates gas-bubbles & lift’s up the board so the etch-side isn’t in the etchant. This method allso results in pro: them bubbles tend to move around the board a bit, thus giving ewently contact with the etchant.4. Making double sided ones. The main problem is to get them both sides aligned? Well, in Your layout-design make some guide-holes of a size ~ 0,8mm in the corners. On them ”both” film’s, punch holes in them guide markers with a needle, (of course You can use some of them component-holes if You don’t have guide-holes).Tape the first layout on the board, (say the solder side), drill them holes for them guide-holes , (use a small hole e.g. 0,8mm.) . Put drill bit’s in them holes, place the top layer film in place by using them drill bits to go through them punched needle-holes, and tape it in place, (remember to remove them bits before continuing  ).5. Now it comes to ”saw” the PCB to it’s actual size. I used to saw them PCB’s with a hacksaw with a ”pain…. pain…pain” never getting quite good reults, (allways had to file them to acchive good result). Until I read a instr. : ”Use a box-cutter knife & a metallic ruler, then make several cut’s on both sides along the same line, (if there’s copper where You’r cutting, make sure to cut at least through the copper), then just bend the PCB against ex. Your table edge, and ”crack”, (the noice, not the stuff)”, and voilá You got a nice cut-out .6. I’ve even made double sided PCB’s with another methode, with succes. I bought of them resistive board’s with a thicknes of 0,8mm. Made them separately as one sider’s. Keep in mind with this methode; the TOP-layer has to be ”mirrored”. My ”pcb-design” program allows this to be done. Then I drilled them both, (separately). Then ”sandwitched” them, no glue no nothing needed, just put some components in place and solder them. NOTE a con. here: this isn’t plated through, so, some component’s ”cower” them pad’s so You can’t solder them from the component side pad, thus not create connection with both sides. Allso remember Your ”via’s”.Your instr. Was GREAT 

    Hi. Niiiice job. Just some propose’s: I would rather make them pattern’s, (column’s), with 5 in each, thus gaining to use ½ of the Voltage e.g. instead of ~38V you need only 18V or use pattern’s of 3 = 3,3V*3= 9,9V and use a 12V power. Of course the layout would be a bit more complicated but not much, (just a couple more resistors and wiring). This allso gives you the benefit of need to drop the voltage just 12V - 9,9 = 2,1V with the resistors, and this way you get the poss. to use higher mA with less power loss.

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  • KISELIN commented on gabevt1's instructable Cable Repair1 year ago
    Cable Repair

    Hi. I forget 3 times of 10 to put the "owerlapping" shrink at first on the cable :) :) as You did forget it here :). rafununu says absolutely Right: " Shift cutting and stripping from one to the next wire ,doing like this will drastically reduce the diameter of the repaired cable" that allso reduces the risk of "short" if the "shrink isolation" brakes.

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  • KISELIN commented on SpectreTECH's instructable Multiple LEDs on a Single Resistor1 year ago
    Multiple LEDs on a Single Resistor

    Hi. Actually I use use in my apps. them LED's to be limited to 10~15mA thus NOT giving the full brightnes, bu to raise from 15 => to 20mA wan't make the brightnes to increase noticebly. The wattage of the resistor is of a less matter, e.g. if needed voltage drop from the source to LED's (RED=2,0V), then with 9V: 9-2=7V ; 7V*0,02A = 0,35W thus a 1/2 Watt resistor will do the job.

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  • KISELIN commented on bekathwia's instructable WiFi Weather Display with ESP82661 year ago
    WiFi Weather Display with ESP8266

    Oh.. it was just a joke with the comment of just looking out. Your 'Ible is Fantastic in it's both design & function

    Hi. I usually look out the window to check out the weather (   ), JOKE.. but true.Your Weather-forecaster is in both design and simplycity the most style’ish.Don’t change anything in it, it’s “just” as stream-lined and functional as it can be.Nice job

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  • KISELIN commented on jwbrooks0's instructable Wire up a fused AC Male Power Socket1 year ago
    Wire up a fused AC Male Power Socket

    The protecting earth

    Good enough from You. Just the but.... as a thumb rule, make the protecting earth, (the green one with yellow stripes), to be 5~10mm longer than them other strands, because: it would be the last one to brake when broken. This "green one", ( AKA protecting earth), is actually connected to the "neutral", (AKA neutral), in your junction central. DONT NEVER EWER misunderstand them AC-powerline for the one end to be "neutral" IT ISN'T, it just divertes the current to go to "mother earth". It's wery essential with this phenonem in them "marinas for boat's" you having a landline to a power outlet. If your boat or your neighbourgh isn't proparly isolated from mains protecting earth, You'll got a problem..... Your battery's,( or your neigh..), wi...

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    Good enough from You. Just the but.... as a thumb rule, make the protecting earth, (the green one with yellow stripes), to be 5~10mm longer than them other strands, because: it would be the last one to brake when broken. This "green one", ( AKA protecting earth), is actually connected to the "neutral", (AKA neutral), in your junction central. DONT NEVER EWER misunderstand them AC-powerline for the one end to be "neutral" IT ISN'T, it just divertes the current to go to "mother earth". It's wery essential with this phenonem in them "marinas for boat's" you having a landline to a power outlet. If your boat or your neighbourgh isn't proparly isolated from mains protecting earth, You'll got a problem..... Your battery's,( or your neigh..), will be drained, strange but true. Because you have the 12V system grounded as well as the mains "neutral" is. So, allways use a "separator" transformer 1:1. Thereby you are separated from the "earth", that is: neither the HOT or NEUTRAL will give you the kiss of death, (unless You touch them both at the same time)

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  • KISELIN commented on Raffy611's instructable ATtiny Dev Board / Tinyduino1 year ago
    ATtiny Dev Board / Tinyduino

    I suggest, take a leap forward: Make a PCB, (Printed Circuit Board), of Your design, and become a member of us "professional" maker's "Welcome". (Me 65+ years to age but still going strong with them innovations, no Alzheimer, ......yet, I think?).

    Nice job

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  • KISELIN commented on JackANDJude's instructable Resistor Color Wheel Tool1 year ago
    Resistor Color Wheel Tool

    Just them colours

    Gee nice job You've done. Anyway, I try to help You with thi dilemma of them colour-codes. I sort them by a system developed by/for me only. The first 3' rings, (there are resistors with 4 ring's + the tolerance ring = 5 rings), on a resistor tell you; ( don't mind the 4' th ring, which is allways marked "wider" as to be the tolarance of the resistor, 1 to 20% ), Try this, (with 3 rings ending with a colour of):Black will be in a class of just ohm'sBrown will be in a class of 100's ohmsRed in a class of kiloohm'sOrange in a class of 10's of kiloohmsEtc... mega... giga.. tera.. atto..

    Actually You should start with black.... = 0 . Black isn't actually a colour at all.... black is black.. as they sing in them 60's, but there's a dilemma, Don't use the third ring as a multiplier, (black is zero multiplied with.... gives you zero), the third ring ONLY says how many zeros you put there.... after them 2 ring's, e.g. brown, brown, brown will make: 2, 2, +1 = 220 Note! It mearly is a symbolic , (not a mathematical ), way to show it's value

    Colour codes

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  • How To Make a 3S 18650 Battery Pack

    Don't bilieve this explained above

    INPUT/OUTPUT?Where is the input = recharge? Where is the output = charge? You got me lost there?

    A Li-Ion battery like a 18650 has a "nominal" voltage of 3.7Volts, (and ewen then there are 2 cell's connected in serious, thus ewery individual cell producing a voltage over a potentional of appr. 1.85Volt/cell). Still, to "recharge" a battery, it requires a higher potential of voltage to be done, You can't just "take" some You allso need to "give" someYour picture shows with the multimeter some 12.4Volt. Right? You'we just recharged them batterys.... but just wait for an 2 minutes and do the measurement again.... TaDaa,,,, it want read ower 12V again... Hmmmmmmm..

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  • KISELIN commented on randofo's instructable Intro to Soldering1 year ago
    Intro to Soldering

    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly he...

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    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly heat up the leg#3 The soldering lead-core has ”built-in” core of ”flush” resin, that’s got much lower melting point that the lead has, why lower? Because the main idea is that when you apply soldering lead to a joint the resin does the ”clean-up” job for you before the lead comes there.#4 Newer, Ewer use the use the tactic’s of to apply lead directly to the tip of the soldering iron, (with one exception: when re-cleaning the tip, then it’s HIGHLY recommended, because then the resin does ”just” that it’s meant for), because if you do the only thing you acchive is to bourn out the resin that was meant to clean up the target area#5 For me it’s kind of a reflex, (like breathing), to clean the tip of my soldering iron ewerytime I release it, (put it away between ewery solder), (me made about 1,000,000+ solderings), thus having them SAME soldering tips and the wery same soldering station, ”Weller” not an ad. here but anyway. Get quality, it pays off.Repetition: ”Allways Heat up the subject and the surface to be attached to”, if that want work firmly, then you have a ”dirty” surface or a ”dirty” component leg, (have had this dirty component leg 100’s of times).

    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly he...

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    Hi. Nice Instr. Some notes, (not critic’s), me 65+ to years, had to go through the ”real” soldering school. That is, to be employed at ”LM Ericson” (the telephone company), you had to take a class for two weeks (14days/ 8 hour), in soldering techniques, and after that to pass a test of making 1.000 soldering joint’s and with only 2, (read: two = 2/1000), ”bad” ones accepted, I passed. So I guess I know something about soldering? #1 Cut the legs of the component to be in a lenght of to be as desired BEFORE soldering, reason? when heating up the leg to be soldered the ”heat climbe’s up” the leg rather than to the surface it’s meant to be in.#2 Allways heat up the area where the component is to be and simultionasly heat up the leg#3 The soldering lead-core has ”built-in” core of ”flush” resin, that’s got much lower melting point that the lead has, why lower? Because the main idea is that when you apply soldering lead to a joint the resin does the ”clean-up” job for you before the lead comes there.#4 Newer, Ewer use the use the tactic’s of to apply lead directly to the tip of the soldering iron, (with one exception: when re-cleaning the tip, then it’s HIGHLY recommended, because then the resin does ”just” that it’s meant for), because if you do the only thing you acchive is to bourn out the resin that was meant to clean up the target area#5 For me it’s kind of a reflex, (like breathing), to clean the tip of my soldering iron ewerytime I release it, (put it away between ewery solder), (me made about 1,000,000+ solderings), thus having them SAME soldering tips and the wery same soldering station, ”Weller” not an ad. here but anyway. Get quality, it pays off.Repetition: ”Allways Heat up the subject and the surface to be attached to”, if that want work firmly, then you have a ”dirty” surface or a ”dirty” component leg, (have had this dirty component leg 100’s of times).

    So right You are. Actually it’s an alloy of Sn/Pb, usually in propotion of 60/40.The leadless solder requires a higher melting temperature point to fullfill the task requiered. Thus making us to ”re-establish” them ”standard’s” of them ”acceptably requirement’s of a good soldering”. Untill these days you could decide wheter the solder is ”good” or not, just by looking at it, ”shining”, (Jack Nicholson), or not? If not, then questionable, may or may not to be good?

    Some "grammatical" errors here, like "bourn" should be = "burned" ? Me a FIN, so be nice with my "gramma"

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  • KISELIN commented on bekathwia's instructable Getting Started With Arduino1 year ago
    Getting Started With Arduino

    Hi So wery right You are. But shouldn’t we be aware of them details allso? Thus using a 1Kohm, (1 Kilo-ohm?) as a current limitor fot the LED? Would work fine let’s say 220R 330RThe Voltage on a awerigy LED, (depends on the LED…. ), is in propotion to the effect it can produce usually about 15 to 20mA. So, the limiting resistor has to be  The LED actually isn’t Amperage-limetid, but Voltage-limited.

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  • KISELIN made the instructable Getting Started With Arduino1 year ago
    Getting Started With Arduino

    Hi. My name is Kimmo and I’m having a addiction to Instructable’s, (my doctor say’s that it’s curable, but he doesnt’t say how). The ”debounce effect” is really a night-mare. But it’s luckely cured by me. I have one solution that’s compleatly solved by TTL-logics, I attach a pic here, (hope it comes trough), and another solution with a software that I published here, (if you can’t find it contact me: kimmo.selin@pp.inet.fi )

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  • KISELIN commented on andrewwilson's instructable Emergency Stop Button 1 year ago
    Emergency Stop Button

    You absolutely did the right thing by "NOT" brake the, (actually it is allso called here in Europa for "Protecting earth"), earth. Here in Finland after a installation of electrical wirings in a house, they especially "check" for the grounding, (the protective earth), NOT to be broken enyware, "hazardious", "leathal", "suicidel"

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