MechEngineerMike

Wow I am impressed, this was a great tutorial for showing the power of processing. And I had no idea you could use it to create windows applications! I see that this is a couple years old, anything good on the workbench lately?

Looks good! Throw it in a case with a battery and wear that thing to a dimly lit party. I recently went to a meetup and the folks with LED toys had a nice ice breaker and attracted everyone to them like moths lol

Great information here thanks for sharing! I think anyone else who found this interesting mght also like this article about interesting things to know about fasteners: https://engineerdog.com/2015/01/11/10-tricks-engineers-need-to-know-about-fasteners/

I cant figure out how to favorite with the new site interface so leaving a comment to remember it. Great work making this easy to follow!

Calculating ultimate torque for a gear is tricky, a 3d printed one all the more. I agree with your assumptions so far. Though you also get the benefit of multiple teeth sharing load simultaneously (contact ratio is usually between 1 & 3.) If it helps, I would run the calcs approximating a tooth as a cantilevered beam using my simple excel based strength of materials calculator that includes an estimate of PLA's physical properties including shear. https://engineerdog.com/resources/ "Strength of Materials Calculator (EXCEL)"

Its adorable :). Got my votes great work!

Hi Zetsway in what way does it not fit? You have this arduino: http://amzn.to/2uL8v8Q and this expansion board: http://amzn.to/2uLbmhQ from this list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bX2QondWwHjtI4xUboqK-Fa24JDN4zF1kn-ApaplT-I/edit#gid=0 correct? Sometimes the presoldered headers on the nano can be splayed out a bit and need to be squeezed in to fit into the board but other than that, that board is only made for that arduino.

This is excellent very technical work. Even though its all written out right in front of me how you built it I'm still not sure I could copy it ;). Great job!

Thanks Igor, I'm glad you enjoyed!

I love the project and your documentation! Under appreciated I think, but keep up the good work. Out of curiosity do you work for Autodesk?

Nice job! I've found oogoo (diy sugru) works really well, and also silicone molding putty for casting is a great out of the box solution. My robots use 3d printed tires which is great for automated making but not as good as the above options for traction.

Great work thanks for sharing!

Great looking robot!

Still looks quite difficult but very very cool project none the less! I've found mini-sumo to be the happy medium of small but manageable.

Yes, you could and I see the temptation as cantilever loadcells are usually cheaper. Just beware that they also have a high enough internal deflection that you'd want to account for it if precision displacement was a concern. Also, it will be more difficult to keep everything centered what with the offset mounting points of a cantilever cell.

Its this motor, http://amzn.to/2nGGqOdNEMA 23 Stepper Motor - 125 oz.in (200 steps/rev)Step Angle (degrees) : 1.8Rated Voltage: 3VRated Current: 2A/PhaseHolding Torque: 90N.cm

Hey cool instructable! I don't mean to undermine it in any way by sharing this but there is a website out there that adds Voronoi holes to stl files automatically. Check it out: http://www.voronator.com/

Looks good so far! Any connectors that are pre-installed on the thermocouples are acceptable. The reason I said something is because you have to use special connectors if you use any, if the connector material is dissimilar to the probe material then you will affect the reading. The thing I never updated in the EE diagram is that I had later discovered that this model of controller uses pins 3 & 4 for a ~5VDC output intended to go directly to the input side of your external SSR. The way I originally wired it would work for a while but then fail

Nice!! Thanks for sharing your experience!

HI Dan, glad you like it! At the end of step 3 there is an XL document called 'Electric Motorcycle Calculations.xls' Its a big document but inside on the tab called 'real budget' there is a link to where i purchased everything. Also there is a tab called websites that lists some other potential good sources. Good luck!

Thanks so much, glad you like it!

Couldn't understand a word but the pictures look great! ;)

Mine came from mcmaster carr here in the US. I used a "finished-Bore Sprocket with Hardened Teeth for #50 Chain, 5/8" Pitch, 15 Teeth, 1" Bore". You can use my Excel calculator in this instructable to help optimize the tooth count for your specific setup. My driven sprocket had 50 teeth.

The wheel rims are special parts designed for solar car racing. We reused ours from the old solar car because we could not find new ones. We did get new tires from Dunlop though.

Absolutely you could.

It makes sence to do this in retrospect. This project is a rebuild, a version 2 that followed a version 1 where I threw out that fan and forgot about it!

I think I like the looks of this one more than mine. Mine has electronics right underneath the acetone container, so if the seal is bad then acetone drips onto the board. On this new one if you were to cut the metal right down the middle you could put the electronics farther away and still use the 4 hole pattern to press against the vibrator seal

I guess I was high from all the fumes. I might have had intentions of re-adding in the float switch at some point because running dry on acetone has the potential to hurt the machine (by shaking without a load and also by overheating).

Woah thanks for posting this, would you mind sharing a picture of the internals too?

The sticking I've seen is superficial, you can always get the part out with a little knock. easier than popping a printed part off a build plate.