Introduction: The Pucker Pouch From Waste Clothe of Torn Bed Sheet.

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About: hello people, i am hobbiest as well as architecture and designing student. i love to explore different materials. i work with wood, concrete, leather, paper, clay. i love painting and sculpture making.

Hello everyone,

I am here with new instructable!. which is a pucker pouch with torn bed sheet.Don’t let the pleats scare you (or the length of the tutorial—I just included a LOT of pictures to explain things clearly). The cutting takes more time than the actual sewing does, in most cases! It is used as pencil pouch or as purse in which you can out your cards, cash and other small things.Let’s get started!

Step 1: FIRSTLY WE WILL LEARN HOW TO PIPING IN FEBRIC.

  • Take your bias tape out of the packaging and iron it flat.
  • Then, fold your strip of fabric in half, sandwiching the cording right down the middle, then pin it in place. (I always keep a bit of cording poking out the end, just so that it doesn’t slip inside.)

  • Now, using your zipper foot and changing your needle all the way to the left side (or if you’re sewing on the other side, all the way to the right)……sew the fabric closed, keeping the needle right next to the cording. Placing your finger nail right next to the cording before it goes under the needle will help you keep things flat and lined up.

  • Sew all the way to the end, making sure to backstitch at both ends. And there you have your long piece of cording.

  • Don’t worry if your edges are uneven. Mine aren’t either. And it won’t matter because those edges will never be seen.

  • Now, if you can’t find the right colour of bias tape, cut your own strip of fabric instead of using bias tap. But your strip of fabric NEEDS to be cut on the bias. This will help the piping curve better around corners and slight curves.

Step 2: CUTTING OUT THE PATTERN

  • First, print and cut out these four patterns.
  • Round off the corners if you desire with the circle on the pattern. I did on my pouch, but you can leave it so it has sharper corners if you’d like.
  • The pattern for the pocket is small—you might want to make it bigger. I think I will next time. As it is, it fits a standard size credit card, but two pockets side by side might be nice.

Step 3: WHAT YOU WILL NEED.

  • fabric for outer
  • fabric for lining and band
  • 20” piping, cut into two 10” pieces
  • 9” zipperinterfacing
  • (all seams are 1/4”)
  • Cut out your fabric and interfacing according to the pattern pieces you printed off.

Step 4: PIPING IN FABRIC

  • Take one of your band pieces and line up the raw edge of the piping.
  • You’ll want to stitch just to the left of the stitching already on the piping.

  • Next line up the band with the 10” edge of one of the outer pieces of fabric.

  • Pin, and stitch even further to the left of what you stitched above on the band and piping part alone.

  • Press the seam down towards the body of the purse.

  • You can topstitch at this point. I think I actually prefer it not topstitched (which is why I left the opposite side without it).

  • Repeat previous steps with the other band and piping.

  • Pin and sew the band onto the other outer piece.

  • On the pattern piece with the pleats, instead of marking the pleat placement, I just cut tiny slits where the lines were for the pleats.

  • Now take the fabric to be pleated, and mark a line 1” from the side, as follows.

  • So when you sew your pleats, since the bag has an angular edge, try and keep the fabric even when folding down.

  • You can see that since it is angled, the pleats don’t match up on the ends. That is ok! Just backstitch at the beginning and end of each pleat—ending the pleat at the 1” line you marked.

  • After sewing the three pleats on one side, press down and stitch along the edge to hold them in place. Repeat for the pleats on the other side of the fabric.

  • Iron on your interfacing pieces. The pocket interfacing just goes on half the pocket piece.

  • To make the optional pocket, fold it in half, right sides together. Leave a 2-3” opening to turn. Clip corners and turn.

  • Topstitch one of the edges for the top of the pocket, then pin it onto the right side of the lining and topstitch around all but the top.

  • Almost done! Time for the zipper. Lay one of the lining pieces, right side up. Then the zipper, right side up. Lay one of the outer pieces, right side down over that. Pin, and using a zipper foot, sew the 3 layers together.

  • Now flip over the outer piece, then flip the lining under the outer piece. Topstitch close to the zipper teeth.

  • Now repeat those steps with the remaining lining and outer pieces. Don’t forget to topstitch as you did above once the outer and lining are sewed to the zipper.

  • Now take the two outer pieces of fabric, right sides together. Flip them to the side and place the lining pieces right sides together.

  • Sew lining pieces together, leaving a 4” gap at the bottom for turning. Make sure not to catch the zipper when sewing the lining pieces. Just sew to the zipper, otherwise the corners of the bag look wrong when finished.

  • Before sewing the outer pieces together, unzip the zipper a bit.

  • Sew the outer pieces right sides together, like you did with the lining.

  • Pull the purse through the lining, then sew the gap in the lining closed.

  • Tuck in the lining, iron the pleats down, and you are finished!

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