An alternative to expensive grinding stones

For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

I need to know how to make a dc male jack with battery clip

I have a dc male jack and a battery clip.separately.i need to know how to connect .this is from a project i saw in instructables.please help.

Topic by ABhiramS5   |  last reply

Why don't old /community/* urls redirect to new /topics/* urls????

All of the older links to a topics on Instructables link to urls, but a while ago (I'm not sure exactly when) all the /community/* pages were moved to /topics/*. Clicking the old /community links returns a 404 error, which is annoying because then I have to manually replace the "community" with "topics" in the url. So my question is, why can't all the /community/*/ pages redirect to their respective /topics/*/ pages?

Topic by scitronboy 

Electric knife sharpeners.....

Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....

Topic by Downunder35m 

From Anime to Reality

Someone was such a fan of Akira that they recreated Kaneda's bike from the manga and the movie. The bike is actually street legal and I'm looking forward to reports of it tearing it up in Neo Tokyo in vicious street gang battles. Extra bonus points if it manages to create light trails. Link

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply

(EMP generator)How can i make a long range EMP generator?

I have watched many video in youtube about, how to make EMP generator. But those EMP's range are really small, I want to make a EMP that can disable any electric device around me like, Disabling all the device in my room. So can Anyone help me with this??

Topic by harryt47   |  last reply

YouTubers who also post on Instructables

Who are your favorite YouTubers who post their project tutorials here on Instructables? For me the list isn't that long, looking to make it longer...Darbin OrvarEvan & KatelynPaul JackmanBrian LoughGlen (DIY Creators)Jen FoxbotJohnny Brooke (Crafted Workshop)Barb Makes Things

Topic by bekathwia   |  last reply

Microwave stopped heating and I fixed it.

Our microwave is about two years old and it stopped heating. The fan ran and the carousel went around, but food did not warm. I took it out of the upper cabinet mount and opened the case. I know about the big capacitor and discharged it with a screwdriver after disconnecting the power. For extra safety I clipped a jumper wire on both terminals. I watched numerous videos at YouTube on troubleshooting a microwave and on testing the various major components at home, but no component showed any signs of failure. Then it began to work again as suddenly as it had stopped working. About ten days later, it stopped heating again. After more testing, still no components showed signs of failure. But, I did squeeze the female spade crimp connectors a little with a pair of pliers before connecting them again so they fit more tightly when reconnected. The microwave has continued to work as it should. My wife remembers a time a few months ago when she ran it and ran it to get something to cook as she wanted it and the microwave stopped because it was overheated. I suspect a connection was weak and heated the metal in the connector enough that it became weak. Later it failed intermittently. We could have called warranty service, but we did not want to wait. Knowing what I know now, I doubt a serviceman would have patiently checked for weak connections, but would probably have simply replaced some parts. When those did not really solve the problem, the microwave would have been condemned and replaced. A replacement oven may not have matched our other appliances as well as our present microwave does. Test procedures for components in a microwave are different than they are for similar components used in (for example) a sound amplifier. This applies especially to the high voltsge diode. Do not connect a voltmeter to the high voltage side of the transformer. When running the microwave, be certain to have a dummy load in the cavity, like a cup of water. A very useful test that checks for power to the transormer primary is to disconnect the primary side transformer connectors and attach aligator clips from a voltmeter to the transformer leads. Then run the microwave for a few seconds and check for a full line voltage reading each time. A clamping ammeter to measure line current helps because the sound with the magnetron working is not too much differnt from the fan and carousel running without the magnetron working, but, it is easy to see the extra needle deflection when the magnetron is also drawing current.What seemed to be an expensive problem had an easy inexpensive solution.

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply

An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 

Removing adhesive from vinyl tiles

I am having solid hardwood flooring installed in my first floor of my home. The existing flooring is currently 12x12" vinyl tiles. I am in the process of removing the tiles (using an iron). How do I remove the old adhesive that was used to put the tiles down? Is it necessary to remove even though felt underlayment will be placed under the hardwood? Thanks in advance.

Topic by meemee_0822   |  last reply

Halloween Making: Why do we do this to ourselves!? ; )

Closing in on midnight on October 30th, and I found myself in a familiar situation . . .Making last-minute Halloween costumes and props for my kids!Here's a photo of my late-night kitchen table, where I was working on a homemade hover board prop from the "Back to the Future" movies. I paused for a moment to survey the scene and snap a photo, and couldn't help taking note of the silliness of the whole thing. It's midnight. I'm tired. My kids are asleep. And I'm up making this thing. WHY?Why do we do this to ourselves?! - - - - - -I know why I do it, but tell me why you do!Were you up late making stuff for yourself or for your kids? Share your reasoning and thoughts on being a creative Halloweener in the comments below. Be sure to include a photo or two of what you were making!

Topic by seamster   |  last reply

3d delta printer issues

Hi everyone. I need some help regarding the homing of a 3d delta printer, and it's my first attempt to create a 3d printer by scrap. My problem is regarding the homing, when I do the homing 2 out of 3 endstop work properly but 1(always one) doesn't work properly(see video). While the support is hitting the endstop, it moves a little back like the others, but then move up again and doesn't stop 'til I do it manually. there is someone that have some idea to solve the issue? Hope everything is clear enough, otherwise ask me :) Thank you in advance.

Topic by SebastianS217 

Knex Mp7 PDW

This is my new H&K; MP7 PDW. It features a removable magazine, a foldable front foregrip, iron sights, and it is very sturdy. Hope you liked it and see you next time with another knex gun!

Topic by TheKnexPro   |  last reply

Magnets in the Microwave, can you do it?

So does anyone know if you can put a magnet in the microwave? Will it cause some nuclear explosion, or rocket me back into time? Or will it just stay on my mug and witness the warming of my beverage?

Topic by Punkergal   |  last reply

Any idea on how to bypass Iboss Webfilter on Mac OS? Challenge!

My computer teacher gave us a challenge: our school used to have filters on most of it's computers, but they were taken down and replaced with something else. As a challenge, our computer teacher re-installed it on some computers and told us to try to get through it. I have had little success, my most promising moment being with a glitch in Firefox, that soon fixed itself and ruined my only gateway. To win the challenge, You have to get onto Facebook, myspace, and twitter, all of which are on the blacklist. Once there, you must post into a specific profile. You must do this three separate times, to illustrate that it can be done more than once. I know it is possible, because two other kids in the class have managed it, but I simply have no idea. The program is Iboss Webfilter by Phantom Technologies, and all of our computers are pretty new Macs. We have access on our computers to Firefox, Safari, Seamonkey, Camino, and Omniweb browsers. All proxy websites are blocked by the webfilter program. All firefox abilities are enabled though. Any and all suggestions or help is appreciated, If we pass the challenge, we get an automatic 100% in the class, because we have probably the coolest computer teacher ever. If anyone can give me a good solution that works, they get a patch!

Topic by ilpug   |  last reply

Knex HK 417

This is my Knex HK 417. It is very nice looking with its flashy side rails and stock. It was a very large gun that held a lot of ammo and shot very well. It was able to shoot passed the length of my house. It also had a removable magazine. I liked building it because it was different than your normal M4 styles.

Topic by Blue Mullet   |  last reply

How does one sort questions by date of submission?

Hi all,It's been a while since I've been to instructables. I see that Questions are back, but they seem to be listed randomly. one will be "posted 9 years ago", followed immediately by one the was "posted 6 days ago" followed by one that was "posted 3 years ago" etc.I don't see any ability to sort by date, although I suspect I'm simply unfamiliar with the new layout.Any help would be appreciated.PS> If some iblesfolk sees this post, I'd like to thank you for implementing post editing. It was always an aggravation to me that I'd have to delete a post in order to correct a misspelled word or otherwise fix some grammatical or cognitive error. Thanks also for implementing the menu bar above posts. (B/I/U etc)dropping this into "websites<

Topic by seandogue   |  last reply

What is this tool

Does anyone know what this tool is?

Topic by weflyfish2   |  last reply

Stepper motor working with nrf51dk (problem with timer i think)

Hello everyone, I am trying to make a program that makes work a stepper motor 28BYJ-48, my stepper motor is well connected to the ULN2003 and the ULN2003 is well connected to my nrf51dk, here is a picture of my setup : foloowed this tutorial and it worked with my Arduino, so I guess the problem is not coming from there.I am now making a program using the nrf51dk, I am using nrf51_sdk_10.0.0 and the ble_app_uart as an example, my project is to control the motor via Bluetooth.But for the moment I just would like to make the motor I follow the same principe of code as in the tutorial for making it work.I need a timer, so I also followed the "Application timer tutorial" from nordic is my code that I Added to the ble_app_uart project ://At the top I define the differents gpios that I will have to use//and step_number that is a variable use to navigate threw the differents steps for the motor to work int step_number = 0; #define motorPin1 1 #define motorPin2 2 #define motorPin3 3 #define motorPin4 4 #define APP_TIMER_PRESCALER 15 /**< Value of the RTC1 PRESCALER register. */ #define APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE 5 /**< Size of timer operation queues. */ //I add 4 different timers, one for each pin APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step1); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step2); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step3); APP_TIMER_DEF(timer_step4); . . . //the code already defined in the existing project//Timeout handler for the repeated timer //I need 4 timeout handler, one foreach motorPin static void timer_a_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin1); } static void timer_b_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin2); } static void timer_c_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin3); } static void timer_d_handler(void * p_context) { nrf_drv_gpiote_out_toggle(motorPin4); } //Then I create the timers // Create timers static void create_timers() { uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; // Create timers err_code1 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step1, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_a_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step2, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_b_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step3, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_create(&timer;_step4, APP_TIMER_MODE_REPEATED, timer_c_handler); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); } //And here is my main //with the loop to make work the motor the same way I did with the arduino, but adapting the code int main(void) { uint32_t err_code; uint32_t err_code1; uint32_t err_code2; uint32_t err_code3; uint32_t err_code4; bool erase_bonds; uint8_t start_string[] = START_STRING; // Initialize. APP_TIMER_INIT(APP_TIMER_PRESCALER, APP_TIMER_OP_QUEUE_SIZE, false); uart_init(); buttons_leds_init(&erase;_bonds); ble_stack_init(); gap_params_init(); services_init(); advertising_init(); conn_params_init(); printf("%s",start_string); err_code = ble_advertising_start(BLE_ADV_MODE_FAST); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code); create_timers(); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin1, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin2, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin3, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); nrf_gpio_pin_dir_set(motorPin4, NRF_GPIO_PIN_DIR_OUTPUT); // Enter main loop. for (;;) { uint8_t str1[1] = "1"; uint8_t str2[1] = "2"; uint8_t str3[1] = "3"; uint8_t str4[1] = "4"; switch(step_number){ case 0: err_code1 = app_timer_start(timer_step1, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str1, strlen((char*)str1)); break; case 1: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_start(timer_step2, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str2, strlen((char*)str2)); break; case 2: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_start(timer_step3, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_stop(timer_step4); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str3, strlen((char*)str3)); break; case 3: err_code1 = app_timer_stop(timer_step1); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code1); err_code2 = app_timer_stop(timer_step2); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code2); err_code3 = app_timer_stop(timer_step3); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code3); err_code4 = app_timer_start(timer_step4, APP_TIMER_TICKS(200, APP_TIMER_PRESCALER), NULL); APP_ERROR_CHECK(err_code4); ble_nus_string_send(&m;_nus, str4, strlen((char*)str4)); break; } step_number++; if(step_number > 3){ step_number = 0; } power_manage(); } }Probably I am doing Something wrong with the timer, because when I modify it and decide to use it with a led for testing like in the tutorial, the motor makes noise but doesn't move and the led works. If someone can help, it's been hours I am on this problem and I can't find my mistakes.

Topic by BenjaminP106 

Maker/fab lab/AI special call for papers invitation

Hi !My name is Andre Peres and I'm a professor and fab lab manager at Brazil.Me and Fabiana Lorenzi are chairing a special track at flairs (The FLORIDA ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE RESEARCH SOCIETY) about fab labs, makers and AI. about the track: flairs: We are inviting interesting projects to submit to this track. When we made this special track we wanted to give fab labs and makers the opportunity to get together in this academic environment to talk, exchange experiences and also to get this opportunity to link academic research, the maker movment and personal digital fabrication.We hope you consider submiting your project to this special track, and also to see you at FLAIRS. best regards;André.

Topic by decoP   |  last reply

Ideas and Methods for DIY Truck Topper

So in 5 months starting February I'll be getting my first vehicle. If I do get a truck, I'll be making my own topper out of wood. Now I have a reference picture but I want it out of wood just because it's more secure and looks pretty. Also because I will be making a door on the back that stands tall but can also be walked through. The first two photos is how I want to make the topper but I need methods and advice to do so. The third picture is how I want the door. I'll try to answer any question when you have them but keep in mind I don't currently own a truck, this is for 6 months down the road.

Topic by jlowery5   |  last reply

10 Watt LED Circuit

I am a software developer by trade and have little or no experience regarding LED and/or electronic designs. I am hoping someone here can help with a project I am working on using high brightness LEDs. I have studied several 'instructables' and specifically dan's "Circuits for using High Power LED's." My project consists of a few high brightness LEDs that will be placed in a high ceiling room with the brightness controlled by a microcontroller based on the light in the room (time of day, sun in window, etc). The microcontroller will use photocells to determine the brightness in the room and then adjust the LED using PWM pins. The LED is 10 watt and approximately 450 lumens. Attached is a circuit I drew as a starting point and would like help in determining if it will work, I am close or does it need to be trashed. I am not sure what the value for the resistor should be. Below are some calculations but not sure if I am on the right track or not. No need to be kind, I am more interested in getting it right and not losing any 'magic puffs of smoke' from any of the components. Here are the specs: LED IF: 1.6 A Peak Forward Current: 1.7 A Forward Voltage: 8 V LM350 (heavy duty version of LM317 IO_MAX: 4.5 A 1.2 - 25 V adjustable regulator BC337-40 Collection Current - Continuous: 800 mA dc Total Device Dissipation: 625 mW Resistor: 5W or 10W Voltage Amp Ohms Watt 8 1.60 5.0 12.8 8 0.80 10.0 10.0 8 1.10 7.5 8.5 Note: LED and components will have adequate heat sinks.

Topic by desnotes   |  last reply

Support contact problems

Hi, Is anyone else experiencing problems contacting the Instructables support team via email? I have tried to email them via different channels three times now but it comes back as non-existent email address.... ironically the reason I'm trying to email support in the first place is because despite changing my contact to a new email address in my personal settings, emails are still being sent to my old email address. If anyone knows how to get through to support or if they are having the same issue maybe we can join forces to resolve it..? Cheers!

Topic by PabloDee   |  last reply

Need ideas on how to make an automatic photo slicer/cutter...

I'm playing with a digital photobooth which prints out 2 vertical strips per piece of 4x6 photo paper.  It works great, and I just cut the paper in half (the long way to separate the two strips. I'm looking for a way to automate this.  I've tried pre-perforating the paper, which works but is not ideal.  I've also just manually used a paper cutter (both rotary and guillotine style). My goal: an automatic paper cutter that will cut a 4x6 photo in half the long way. I've actually started building a device that is basically a slot to guide the paper, and a turning rotary blade.  The paper gets dropped in the top, is drawn through the turning rotary blade in the middle, and is spit out the bottom.  It works on small scraps of paper, but lacks the power to really cut through an entire piece of photo paper.  Also, it's built out of MDF wood and I lack the tools to make it precise enough to cut accurately. The cutting mechanism seems to be the big holdup.  I tried with my hand - a rotary blade (even a big sharp one) requires quite a lot of pressure to cut the photo, and it's not something the photo paper can just drop through via gravity.  I'd have to get a much stronger motor. But I'm starting to brainstorm - is there a better way?  I think ideally I'd have a mechanism like an electric paper shredder - two rolling bars with disc-shaped metal blades.  The blades are not thin & sharp like a razer... just sharply-square on their edges so that paper get gets caught between them gets cut.  I'd have a paper shredder with just two of those roller/blades, so it would just cut right down the middle. However, all paper shredders I've found are cross cut (which would pulverize the photo), or have grippy teeth that mangle the paper leaving very rough edges. So let's brainstorm... what kind of cutting mechanisms might work?  What are make-able in a garage with limited tools?  How could I create my own custom paper-shredder type roller-blades? Any ideas, thoughts, questions are welcome.  It seems simple on the surface, but I've built two prototypes and still don't have a workable solution. Thanks! (And yes, I'll turn it into an instructable when it gets done) SUMMARY: (I'll try to summarize the current ideas here) -Use a mini saw blade and work it like a mini table saw. -Create some kind of rotary die cutter. -Automate a normal guillotine paper cutter (lots of electronics and sensors).

Topic by jumpfroggy   |  last reply


We love seeing our authors transform their ideas into a reality, and we want to help in whatever ways we can. Below are some of the campaigns our authors are working to get funded. We'll do our best to keep this list current, so please check out their projects, and help fellow makers in our community find success!  Current Campaigns i-mimic the animation made easy, Device capturing human motion directly in 3D animation software in real-time & without plugins. by Instructabler nawres102 Open Source DIY Automatic Tail Light, A fun and easy to assemble light sensor kit.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Tiq probe, it defines a new category of electronic debug & test tools for makers & professionals - filling the gap between DMMs & 'scopes. By Instructabler markhen57 If you have a project you're trying to get funded, let us know!  Completed Campaigns  Doughnut Safe, Turn your spare tire into a strong box.  By Instructabler Mrballeng The fumeFan, The fume Fan is a soldering fume extractor, work lamp, helping hands tool and a project organiser for hobbyists, makers and creators.  By Instructabler hertzgamma SOLARPAD Open Source 5 Watt Smart Phone Solar USB Charger, Strap this water-resistant solar panel and battery to backpacks or mount it to tripods for camping, hiking, and cycling.  By Instructabler Solarcycle Fish Bone, A no knots cord tightener specifically designed for paracord by author Mrballeng - Funded by almost 9000% of goal! Would you Woodwork, a funny and informational woodworking webseries by author Few Bits - Funded by 100% of goal!  Zero to Maker, a re-skilling guide for new makers by David Lang - Funded by almost 2000% of goal! Arabic Alphabet Fun Flashcards, cute and kid friendly learning tool by author acraftyarab - Funded and met goal! PIXEL: Interactive LED Art, an interactive LED-based display for retro pixel art by author alinke - Funded by over 600% of goal! Blinky Fish, a tiny fish-shaped board that fits on an Arduino to help teach, by author marc.cryan - Funded by almost 600% of goal! Chipper, the ATtiny Programming and Prototyping Shield, by author Hammock Boy - funded by over 1000% of goal! Piranha, a follow-up knotless gear tie for paracord, by author Mrballeng - funded by over 1400% of goal! The Question Block Lamp, a Mario-inspired, interactive lamp for your inner geek, gamer and child, by author bduxbury - funded by almost 150% of goal! Out of Time - A patina weathered I-Beam with moving gears by Instructabler hack818 Maker Kase - Universal Maker cabinet. Perfect for 3D printers, model makers, small CNC machines and open frame Bitcoin Miners by Instructabler bmc.loughlin Have you started your own Kickstarter or Indiegogo to help fund your project? Let us know! Please leave the link in the comments, along with a brief description. We'll add your project to our up-to-date campaign list above, and promote it across our channels. If you have any questions, or want to add any additional info, please email me at Thanks!

Topic by kazmataz   |  last reply

Light-Board reaction time test

So I'm into martial arts and I was surfing the net looking for hand-eye and reaction time tests. I came across this The NFL and other sports trainers use it to  either gauge or improve reaction time, it's very popular among boxers and hockey goalies. I want one, but of course it's outrageously expensive so I was wondering if anyone had any advice on how I could make something similar of my own. I was thinking of using LED lights and some kind of pressure switch to register my touching the light. the main problem is I don't have any idea how to make the lights blink randomly. if anyone has any Ideas I would greatly appreciate it thanks!

Topic by lmm1779   |  last reply

Re-categorizing Furniture 'ables by function rather than alphabetical?

I'm beginning the process of doing some pretty major remodeling projects in my home, and was looking through the Furniture category, in the hopes of finding some ideas. Maddeningly, it's arranged alphabetically by the title of the Instructable! makes zero sense, unless you are looking for an 'able whose title you already know. I mean, honestly! -WTF is a "20KRKR", and why would anyone think to click on it to find an 'able for a *rocking chair*?! ( )So I'm wondering how one could go about either re-organizing the category, or providing an alternative browsing structure based upon the actual categorical function of each piece of furniture. Taxonomically, this should not be a problem. Seating is seating, lighting is lighting, work surfaces are work surfaces, etc., and each could logically be subdivided. For example, the Lighting category could be split into Task lighting, Area lighting, multi-function lighting, and Seating could be divided into Group seating (sofas, love seats, etc.), Single seating (arm chairs, side chairs, stools, etc.), and so on. I think that this would be vastly easier to use than the current alphabetical structure. Any opinions pro or con? Any suggestions as to how to make this happen? Is there anyone at Instructables whom I could contact and propose this to?

Topic by Bricology   |  last reply


Good morning,my name is Benedetta Piazza and I am a master student at the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan. I am currently writing my final dissertation about “Consumer Entrepreneurship in the Creation of new Markets: The Case of Fidget Toys”. I am contacting you since I have read that some of you took part in the creation of creative-innovative fidget toys. I would like to submit you a survey in order to get more specific information about your interesting project. I hope not to disturb you and get a feedback from you, this is the link to my survey, it only takes less than 3 minutes, I primise!: Best regards, Benedetta Piazza

Topic by BenedettaPiazza   |  last reply

IOS 10.0.2

Hi I received IOS 10.0.2 overnight for my iPhone 6.  I notice when using my mobile to share an instructable via email, the message window opens and I hit 'Send'.  However the window stays open, and acts as though no button has been pressed.  I hit send a few more times, with nothing happening, then tried to cancel.  I saved my message as draft, but the window remained open.  I then chose to delete the message...and the window stayed open.  The only way out of this window was to kill the app. I then had a bunch of messages arrive in my destination all of the messages were correctly sent. It seems that the app needs an update to close the message window once an action (send, save as draft or cancel) is pressed. Regards Shane

Topic by Minnear Knives   |  last reply

Collaboration experiment

Does anyone want to try the collaboration experiment again? I forget why it stopped the first time but I thought it was fun. It would essentially be the same except for a few things that I think would improve it

Topic by bravoechonovember1   |  last reply

All my favorites are gone

I recently changed my username, and immediately afterwards all my favorites disappeared! This was the case on both my computer and the android app. Is there anyway to retrieve them? Thanks!

Topic by DoctorDIY   |  last reply

The Validity of Astrology

So today in one of my classes we talked about the practice of astrology and how it supposably affects us. My teacher didn't tell us to go and relie on horoscopes on how to live our days. I was just wanting to hear some other opinions on it. Personally i'm still sort of reluctant to accept it, not sure why but... Just ya know post your opinions on whether you think this really old practice is BS or is worth taking a look at.

Topic by wingman246   |  last reply

Does anyone Identify this IR Receiver Component?

I recently disassembled a stereo receiver (rx-4010r) and I found this ir receiver, and I would like to to control it with my arduino. Can anyone help me get the datasheet, or suggest what are the connections?Thanks, Ariel.

Topic by ArielE20   |  last reply

making methanol

Hi im looking to make some methanol i have heard you cna do this by mixing cabon monoxide and hydrogen but i have no idea how anyone got any ideas for making these and therefore being able to make methanol or other ways of making methanol cheers josh

Topic by minus273degrees   |  last reply

3d Printed Concrete Forms for Architectural Post Tensioned Concrete Sculptures

I am looking at the feasibility of 3D printing concrete forms to make a staircase that goes up a 4' retaining wall. The forms would be cylindrical, split in half, and during the pour would be supported using a wood support system. Ideally I would have one main highly curved support "column" (think more of a snake or spaghetti noodle) with then stairs that slide in via a mortise and tenon type connection. The stairs would be poured individually in a separate production process than the main support. I plan on using a combination of a wire mesh, rebar and tension cables for the concrete reinforcement. The tension cables would run the length of the main support beam and would be hydraulically tensioned just before the formwork was removed. I have ample concrete experience as a civil engineer and a construction manager but this idea seems like I need some outside input.Does anyone have any experience 3d printing concrete forms. What is the best material that will hold up to the moisture and high alkalinity of concrete?At this point I have no real conceptual drawings but I'm looking to see if any similar projects have been attempted and hopefully learn and improve on them!

Topic by cjh83 

forked threads and linear threads

Hi. It's about how are organized threads into forums. Currently forum threads are forked : you can reply to a comment separately, and each of your reply will make a new fork if somebody reply to your new comment ... this makes threads like trees ... Personally, I don't find this system very handy, more particularly when the same thing is being actively discussed in several forks. This system is good for short chats and when commenting instructables, but when it's about debating, it quickly becomes confusing ... For the forums, I'd prefer a system with a linear thread where messages are ordered according to time, and where we have to quote the persons we want to reply to. Several discussion could get "multiplexed" on the same thread, but personally, I find that less confusing as long as there are quotes. What's your preference ?

Topic by chooseausername   |  last reply

The Torrefaction Process... Anybody know how to cook wood?

For anyone out there who is not yet familiar with Torrefaction, it is a process of "baking" wood in an over between 200 and 320 degree Celsius (392 - 608 F), in the absence of oxygen. Don't quote me on those temperatures btw... I got them from Wikipedia, and they sound way too hot based on other articles I've read. The idea is, wood contains a lot of biomaterials like sugars, resigns, tar, and water. After you cut down a tree, these materials begin to vacate the wood through evaporation, sublimation, and all the other _'ations...It takes 100 years or so, but eventually, they all are gone, and the wood is super stable, and no longer expanding, moving, contracting and changing. This old wood is also extremely rot resistant and can withstand the elements. For this reason, Torrefied wood is used for decking and outdoor projects mostly. However, the guitar industry has also started to adopt using it, because you have basically aged the wood 100 years in the course of a few hours. You have also increased the price of the damn guitar to the, "your firstborn child" level. I build guitars, and I cannot believe that it can be too hard to bake some wood myself. Here are the variables that I see...1. Vessel: How to create an environment that can be brought to a specific temperature (~350-400 d F), but has also had all oxygen removed? Even if you welded together a steel box that could be locked down air-tight, and had a valve that you could pump all the air out, if you could figure out a way to heat that box to 400 d F, the water inside the wood would def. begin to boil and I imagine would be re-introducing O2. I guess you'd have to re-pump the air out every so-often until all the water was gone. 2. Temperature: Torrefication is also the exact same process that is used to turn ordinary hardwood into charcoal. I have no idea what the temperatures are, but lovely baked spruce for a guitar top has turned a slight aged tan color. But if you cranked the temp, it would eventually turn into pure carbon and be jet black like charcoal. I have no idea how to tell what temp achieves what I want. 3.) Time: I always read that Torrefied wood is baked at these temps for "several/many" hours. How would I ever know?4.) Pressure/Flames/Bomb: I know from watching YouTube videos, that when charcoal is made, wood is superheated in an oxygen-free env. until the volatile oils, resins, etc ignite and burn off, thus leaving Charcoal. I do not want to weld together a heavy steel box that becomes a high temp pressure cooker, that blows my kitchen apart when the oils in the wood inside of it ignite. Does anyone know what I am talking about and/or have any suggestions?

Topic by Dolmetscher007 

Removing hairspray from painted woodwork

Can anyone suggest how to remove hairspray (off spray) from painted wooden surfaces (doors) as we have tried all proprietary household products and white spirit without any success and it would be nice to have to avoid repainting the doors..!!

Topic by Briarswood   |  last reply

Help needed to make a model spinning teacup ride

Hi can anyone help me I need to build 2 model amusement park rides, the first one a ferris wheel this has been sorted out however the second one is a spinning teacup ride which I have no idea where to start with it. I have looked on the internet for ideas but no such luck. The spinning teacup ride has to be built out of cardboard and recycable items, this ride needs to include a mechanism that is housed in the structure. Has anyone built a model like this. Where can I find some help with this. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need help Please!

Topic by dromedarius   |  last reply

K'NEX Halo 3 Dual SMGs and Battle Rifle

Dual M7 Caseless SMGsI made another SMG and a Battle Rifle! The SMGs are almost exactly alike, except when I made the second one I noticed some problems and made a few small changes. Also, I didn't have enough of those swingy pieces I used for the forestock joint, so I used ball and joint pieces, which worked great.Here is the description from the page I made when I made the first one.This is a K'NEX model (just a model, not a gun) of the M7 Caseless Submachine Gun from Halo, better known as the SMG. It has twin notch sights, rear and fore stock, and a solid barrel. The stock is extended, the way I made it, but I'm thinking about making it collapsible. It should be fairly easy to put in a firing mechanism, but I don't plan on doing that right now. I don't think I'm gonna post instructions because I would have to take it apart. If anyone can dissect it in their minds, go ahead and make an Instructable, but make it a collaboration with me. M7 Caseless SMG on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res M7 Caseless SMGBR55HB SR - Battle Rifle, Heavy Barrel, Sniper RifleDifferences between BR55HB SR (Halo 3) and BR55 (Halo 2)- Longer barrel- Trigger guardI based my model off the BR55HB SR, which is the actual name for the Battle Rifle in Halo 3, so it includes all the changes. It has the elevated rail, which has a scope on it. You might notice at the end of the barrel in the picture of the actual gun, the barrel looks expanded at the end. I did this too. The inside of the model is almost completely hollow, so it would be easy to convert into a gun. The barrel at the end would be hard though. The whole thing is very solid, even though it's hollow. It's also very easy to make, unlike the SMG.BR55HB SR Battle Rifle on Halopedia.orgHigh-Res BR55HB SR Battle Rifle

Topic by Aeshir   |  last reply

How do I convert an AC device to run on a battery pack?

I have a device that runs on ac (110-120 Vac - 180w). I want to make it portable so that it can run off a battery pack such as AA or 9 Volt or even a custom battery. Is this too much of a power requirement to make it possible??? thanks in advance for your help.

Topic by gadgetcrazy   |  last reply

Instructables App

Hello, My daughter has recently discovered Instructables on my phone, and now she wants the app on hers.  Does anyone know what happened to it?  I have tried the Family Sharing feature for IOS; however, it isn't on my list of purchased apps... Thoughts?

Topic by cyberogre   |  last reply

Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver - L298N not given enough power to motors

Hi there, am very new to the electronics community, I recent bought my first arduino. I wanted to build me own RC car, so I bought Dual H-Bridge Motor Driver L298N Module from ebay (;=item3a8223049b) I think I have connected everything correctly but somehow the 2 dc motors connected to the motor driver don't seem to move, I have tried a 9v battery to power the motor shield but doesn't seem to do anything. I  used this diagram do the connection to the arduino The arduino itself has it own 9v battery powering it. I have checked both motors and they work fine. when i switch on the rc car the led on the motor shield blinks but the motors just don't move. I used a digital multimeter to measure the voltage going into the motor. it goes upto 0.36v  then drops. does that mean there isn't enough voltage going into the motors? and how much voltage do you recommend to get it working? Images of the rc car The code am running on the arduino //motor A int dir1PinA = 2; int dir2PinA = 3; int speedPinA = 9; //motor B int dir1PinB = 4; int dir2PinB = 5; int speedPinB = 10; unsigned long time; int speed; int dir; void setup(){   pinMode(dir1PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinA,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir1PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(dir2PinB,OUTPUT); pinMode(speedPinB,OUTPUT); time = millis(); speed = 0; dir = 1; } void loop(){     analogWrite(speedPinA, speed);   analogWrite(speedPinB,255 - speed);     //set direction   if(1 == dir){     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, LOW);   }else{     digitalWrite(dir1PinA, HIGH);     digitalWrite(dir2PinA, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir1PinB, LOW);     digitalWrite(dir2PinB, HIGH);   }     if(millis() - time > 5000){     time = millis();     speed += 20;     if(speed > 255){       speed = 0;     }     if(1 == dir){       dir = 0;     }else{       dir = 1;     }   }   }

Topic by Raphael1   |  last reply

A 5 gig file won't fit onto an empty 16 gig flash drive?

I have a 16 gigabyte flash drive that's relatively empty (13.7GB free space), and I was trying to put a 5 gigabyte .ISO file onto it.  However, when I try to copy the file to the flash drive, I get an error saying there is not enough space to put the file on the flash drive.  I know this is not true because I have over 13 gigs of free space. Is there any reason for this weird error and is there any fix? This is kinda important.

Topic by DJ Radio   |  last reply

Looking for help exceeding a fundraising goal

My son had jmml leukemia and I’m looking for help raise money for the cause. I’ve been a member of this community for a while and I feel you guys can do a lot to help. Please follow the link to donate.

Topic by The Rubber Duck   |  last reply

Run a generator with a motor

I have a 1.5kva gas engine generator but the engine part broke down. I opened it up to see if it can be fixed but the cam and the piston were shredded to pieces. I tried to run the generator part to see if it still works by hooking it up to an angle grinder via pulleys and a belt. It did work but the grinder only lasted half an hour. What better ways can i run this generator off of? What motor can i use to take the place of that broken engine? The engine speed is 3600 rpm.

Topic by Servantwind   |  last reply

Sharpening knifes and similar tools

On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

Important Changes to Contests - May 1st

Hello everyone! As most of you have probably noticed, we haven’t changed much with our contests over the last several years. But this year we’re changing that, thanks to all of you and your important feedback! In 2018, we are going to be trying new things when it comes to contests. We believe these changes will lead to a larger variety of winners and even more incredible instructables!With that said, we’d like to announce two major contest updates starting on May 1st. #1 - Every instructable can only be entered into ONE single contest.At first, this may seem like bad news, but we promise it’s actually good: the new rule will allow more authors to win prizes! We’re reducing the number of prizes ONE instructable can win, but this will allow for more winners overall. While we’re sure some of you will be disappointed, this is a great way to level the playing field and simplify the process for both authors and judges. The old contest system allowed an author to enter three contests with one instructable, which greatly increased the number of entries per contest. Along with increasing the number of entries per contest, the old system tended to pit new authors against much more experienced authors who understand that they can up their chances of becoming a finalist by working multiple contest themes into an instructable. We hope this new contest rule will encourage our authors to commit fully and enthusiastically to one contest theme and create more focused projects, instead of stressing about making something to qualify for three separate contests!.#2 - We are creating more Prize Packs.Currently, if you win a contest at any prize level you will get an Instructables prize pack, some stickers, and whatever other random swag we have lying about in our prize room. As it turns out, this has created a situation in which our best authors end up filling their homes with piles of instructables T-shirts. We recognize that winning T-shirts over and over again is boring.To make Prize Packs Great Again over the next few months, we are going to roll out new Prize Packs on a permanent and limited edition basis. When you win a contest, you will be able to select the standard T-shirt prize pack, but you will also have new choices coming soon.Make sure to keep an eye out soon for new Instructables swag we know you’ll love!

Topic by randofo   |  last reply

Orrery Plans

Hi folks, I have a little project in mind and I was wondering if anyone knows of anywhere I can get plans to build an orrery for our solar system? Alternatively a mains powered orrery mechanism that I can build around would be good as well. Many thanks in advance

Topic by Motorbikeman   |  last reply

Connect Arduino UNO to a Laser with TCP/IP or RS232 protocol

Hi everyone, I am trying to comunicate with a Laser via ethernet or RS232 but I realy don't find enough information in internet to make my sketch. For TCP/IP, I am using a ENC28J60.CLK ---> D8SO ---> D12SCK --->D13SI --->D11CS --->D10VCC --->3,3vGND --->GNDYou will find attached the manual for TCP/IP comunications that the laser company gave me.Finaly for RS232, I tried to use the TTL-RS232 module (MAX3232) to comunicate but I was not able to make it works. (attached the manual for RS232 comunications that the laser company gave me.RXD ---> RX 0 TXD ---> TX 1VCC ---> 5vGNS ---> GNDPlease could somebody helps me with the code. Thank you,Jonathan

Topic by JonathanP233   |  last reply