I have a home-made choke with 12 turns 20ga wire 12v. i want to replace it and buy one to save space, which one is recommended?
Question by manfred2766 | last reply
I tried to repair two electronic chokes for 4' fluorescent tubes but cdn't succeed. If any one kindly help me by providing a step by step guide with the test voltages etc. at important points in the circuit, I will be ever grateful. The following things have been already done/checked. Physical checking of any defect/damage/burning marks etc., DC voltage after rectification is OK, Filter capacitor (DC voltage after rectification ) is checked OK, Other electrolytic capacitors chked to be OK, one of the 13005 transistors was found defective - changed with a new one, but no result. Voltages at the transistor terminals seem to be OK.. May pls write to me directly. B.N.Bhattacharya email@example.com
Topic by bnber3451 | last reply
I would like to be able to choke current example 12-20amps from the 40amp peak to peak keeping voltage level to rise when the current begins to fall again as stabling after a huge load peak. This will preserve energy consumption on my circuit. Things ive researched Transformer choke Current limit thorough chips add a pwm and control (expensive and time consuming)
Question by ArturoC6 | last reply
I recently bought a cheap mig gasless mig welder and I was doing some online reading about it. So I found out a mig welder should be DC, with gasless having the clamp at + and the torch at - . However when I looked at the schematic (in the images) and inside the welder to confirm it, and it was AC. So it turned out really cheap welders are ac. So my I want to try mod it to be DC. My question was, what diodes should I use? What Capacitors and capacitance do I need? And how do I design a Choke? I was looking at getting this diode: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MBRP400100CT-400A-100V-SBD-Schottky-Barrier-Rectifier-Diode-Module-/160930207205?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash;=item25783015e5&_uhb=1 And then putting two of them together to make a full wave bridge. Would a Schotty diode Work? Or do I need a stud diode? And about what capacitance do I need? Would lots of 2200uF 50v capacitors in parallel work? Could I put in a variable ballast? and where would it go, on the 240v side or the output? Lastly, could I also add a modded microwave oven transformer for low voltage high current in parallel to boost the power? I guess I would have to wind it to have a similar voltage. Thanks
Question by makincoolstuff | last reply
When Im driving, usually on long trips, my blazer doesn't want to run as if suddenly it got shift to neutral...I have to pull over right away because soon after it will shut down. Other times when Im driving locally...if I turn off the car and want to turn it back on it won't turn on... once its off whether driving on long trips or locally, if i leave it for about a good hr or so, it will turn back on as if nothing was ever wrong...I've changed the fuel pump once and the fuel filter a couple of times...
Question | last reply
I have a typical small engine power washer which was running fine the first day I used it this year even on the old fuel. When I got a can of new fuel this year, it would start and run while I had the choke on, but when I tried to take the choke off, it would simply die. This was the case even after it had run awhile. I was able to adjust the speed from rabbit to turtle and back to rabbit with no problems. However, while it is in choke, I just am not getting the same power. What could be causing this small engine to only run in the choke position? It has oil. This is New Jersey, and every gas station now has ten percent ethanol mixed into the gas. I can guess that this has something to do with it, but how can I fix the problem? What exactly is the problem?
Question by kedwa30 | last reply
Tried to repair to electronic chokes of 4' tube light but cdn't succeed. I'll be grateful if any one can provide a step by step guide with test voltages etc. at important points in the ckt. Already done/checked - Physical checking of any damage/burn marks etc., DC voltafe after rectification is OK, Filter capacitor after rectification is chkd OK, other electrolytic capacitors chkd. OK, one of the 13005 transistors was found defective - changed but no result, Voltages at the transistor terminals chkd and seem to be OK. May pls contact firstname.lastname@example.org B.N.Bhattacharya
Question by bnber3451 | last reply
I am making a project where I need very small electromagnets to attract and hold a small metal flap closed when the circuit is turned on. Flap is about 1cm from the magnet and returns to this position via a spring when the circuit is off. In theory is it possible to use inductors used in electronic circuits (for interference suppression etc.) as an electromagnet? Thanks.
Question by laquermonkey | last reply
My mum dosent like it because we have a pet rabbit that could choke on the bb's
Question by sharlston | last reply
I have a 33cc gas scooter (sounds nerdy, I know), on the side I can make out what looks like Moto Rebel but not sure. It was used twice, sat in garage for one year without gas in the tank, then sold to me for $20 (Amazing price for something that's $350 new). Like new! It is 2-stroke but am unsure of the model number. It starts runs on choke between a small margin but won't run on ON, which is above choke on the switch. I think it may need the idle screws adjusted but am unsure. Has new and correct gas oil mix in tank and has primer button. Help would be appreciated.
Question by Electric Spectre1 | last reply
Looking to make soybean crayons or other eco friendly non toxic crayons. Can't seem to find anything here or on google. Any links/tutorials/etc. would be greatly appreciated. I am not looking to make the crayon rocks, as one of my children is young enough that they would be a choking hazard.
Question by fragile.ecstasy | last reply
I have a Remington 870 20-gauge with the factory barrel and choke installed. So far it has been shooting birdshot just fine, my question is, is a different barrel needed for buckshot? I know a different one is needed for slugs, but is the same true for buckshot?
Question by RedneckAsian | last reply
I'm really bored and I want to build something neat, can someone suggest something cool I could do with these parts?? Armed with soldering gun and other parts in my parts bins, I'm sure I could make something cool/useful?? (P.S as far as the capacitors, I wouldn't mind making a rail gun) I have this so far I want to use: Bank of capacitors (several large amplifier capacitors and some smaller power supply caps) One rather large relay switch (I tested it today, it works!) One "temporary" toggle switch, it does NOT stay on when you flick it, dual pole Does anyone have any idea?? I also have things like hundreds of smaller caps (is it possible to make an effective capacitor bank with tonnes of tiny capacitors?? I also have oodles of ferrite cores and RF chokes of different sizes (I was wondering, would the larger RF chokes I have, work as subwoofer coils??)
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
Ive built a pretty good sized tesla coil. Problem is, I kinda of afraid to run it without some sort of protection for my NST an my house wiring. I have three other coils of varous sizes that Ive run without any problems, but I really dont want to push my luck. So if anyone could give me a hand on how to figure this out, I would greatly appreciate it. Many thanks in advance.
Question by Seth the Man | last reply
I just wanted to say, if you have a broken floppy drive laying around, take it apart, get the small stepper motor out, take off the LED (bicolor if you are lucky) and contact switches, and anything else useful like a IR photogate, and chokes, desolder the huge pin headers, but after that... remove the round plate that is a part of the main spindle motor, it has a ring of magnet on the inside, it is absolutely perfect for holding small screws when you are taking apart something just felt like sharing
Topic by frank26080115 | last reply
I have disassembled an old TV parts info. I've been able to catalog most of the components, but, I have transformers, transistors, chokes/loops, and others that I can not get info on. I've tried Googling the part numbers, but, I'm getting no where. Can someone please help in leading me in the right direction? Thanks.
Question by bigdaddy8951 | last reply
Some amusing video of folks from the Sci-Fi network mildly abusing a Pleo. (This is the next toy from the people who brought you the Furby.)It's amazingly easy to kill off the little dinosaur, really. Thankfully you can always reboot.My favorite part was probably Stuart P. Bentley's comment:I can't believe you guys work for the Sci-Fi Channel and passed up the opportunity to choke a robot dinosaur while saying "IF THIS IS A CONSULAR SHIP, WHERE IS THE AMBASSADOR?"
Topic by canida | last reply
Soo, currently teh lawnz needs mowing, but there's no petrol.... for the lawn mower, that's four-stroke (straight unleaded & oil seperate) there's two-stroke stuff though(50:1 ratio or so), I did try a little in the tank, which seemed to work okay, but concerned parents are wondering it might make it choke the mower to death, can someone please confirm what can happen, and what will most likely happen. =) -Thanke!
Topic by ll.13 | last reply
I have a 17.5 hp Tecumseh Lawn Tractor Engine that starts only on Full Choke but dies after 20 seconds or so. After I got fuel going to the cylinder, the carb started to leak fuel. According to the owner, it has never done the before. Here is the link:https://www.amazon.com/640330-640330A-Tecumseh-Carburetor-Solenoid/dp/B00LRTPGDE This is the same carb that's on it. Please, I need help ASAP anything would be helpful!
Question by PowderRiderRepair | last reply
A few lines from chappelles show well, see you later oh yeah, and Dave..... POP! WAYNE BRADY BITCH! is Wayne Brady gonna have to choke a bitch? "White people like Wayne Brady because he makes Bryant Gumbel look like Malcolm X" - Dave Chappelle, "my mother in law is never gonna believe i met Wayne Brady.." yeah, because she's never gonna know!" -snaps the cops neck- lmao ah, good times with Wayne Brady, lmao
Topic by Yerboogieman | last reply
I have a United Technologies dc motor, 2.5 hp @ 120VDC, but no controller. It has a red & black wire, plus 2 blue wires. The black goes through a choke coil. Anybody have a breadboard type of design for a speed controller with hookup instructions? I can solder, follow a schematic, and wire a house, but am not up on electronics. Last radio I built was in the mid 50's, so I probably need more than usual specifics. Thanks for any help you can offer. Ed B
Question by Ed B | last reply
Let me just get it out of the way, I have a genetic deformity. My Esophagus is VERY small. Mashed Potatoes get stuck in my throat (without choking though,) So today, I was looking forward to going to Wendy's for the first time in 3 months. So, I took 1 bite of my Spicy chicken sandwich... Swallowed, and took another bite. As soon as I took my second bite, I felt the first bite get stuck, so since it happens when i eat ANYTHING, I don't panic and take a drink of my coke.... I forget about the food stored in my cheek. The stored food in my cheek goes down my throat with the coke on top. I am in serious pain, and my breath is so short, I barely had enough time to *I can't breath*. My mom tells me to put my arms in my air, so I do. My dad come up behind me and squeezes my stomach... the food that I was choking on kept flip-flopping between my windpipe and throat. Finally, It gets out of my windpipe and into my throat... I run to the bathroom... I belch up out 4 mouth fulls of chewed up chicken sandwhich and coke. The chicken was stuck in my throat (but not choking) for about an hour. Finally, I decide to drink water and it slips down my throat... Now, I feel like I am learning to eat all over again. Everyone wanted to go to a diner at 10 pm... so I go, scared to eat (odd, huh?). I get the grilled cheese with a pickle and fries. About half an hour later, everyone is putting their food into boxes to take home... I haven't even touched my second half of grilled cheese. I chew everything into applesauce - like cider. Luckily, my dad, who also had this problem as a child, has a doctor who stretched his throat out, and when I get older, I will get that done to me. My mom and brother laugh about my incident... but now, I am still in shock and having trouble eating...
Topic by Flumpkins | last reply
So I was hanging out with some buddies of mine in my spartan costume...betcha can't guess which one is me. My costume consists of: Helmet - Cardboard shape, covered in bondo and spraypainted. Bicycle helmey pads inside. Shield - Cut plywood, with a cardboard lambda, covered in bondo and spraypainted. Polyester straps are riveted/gorilla glued on the back. Cape - Scarlet cotton fabric with polyester straps to keep it from choking me. Beard/abs - Mom's eyebrow pencil...If you have experience with spirit gum, use that and fake hair, unfortunately, it didn't cooperate with me. Pantalones - If you're feeling frisky, wear a speedo, if not, brown shorts are acceptable
Topic by Weissensteinburg | last reply
The largest dump in the world isn't outside New York or London or Shanghai but in a desolate stretch of the Pacific Ocean nearly a thousand miles from the nearest island. Held together by a slowly rotating system of currents northeast of Hawaii, the Eastern Garbage Patch is more than just a few floating plastic bottles washed out to sea; the Patch is a giant mass of trash-laden water nearly double the size of Texas.Full Article:Plague of Plastic Chokes the Seas in the LA TimesQuick Blurb:Oceans of Garbage on Vestal Design
Topic by noahw | last reply
I'm trying to make a Jule thief, I set up the circuit and tested it using a salvaged transformer and it works fine the only problem is that the salvaged transformer is kinda large. So i decide to try to make a smaller transformer using a Radio Shack T4452-1R2L choke and 26 gauge magnet wire. i managed to fit 15 pairs of windings onto the T4452-1R2L Toroid, but when i tested it the led won't light up. I tested the wires for shorts using a multi-meter and even tipple checked that it was wired correctly. Is this Toroid just not suitable for use in transformers of this kind or do i need to use a smaller gauge wire or is there something I am overlooking?
Question by FrozenKnight | last reply
I am in a night class called Design for Industry. In that class we design, make, and test a mini indycar. We are using the same car from last year, but the previous teacher didn't exactly car about the car, or so it seems. We had to fix the wiring, key ignition, solenoid and starter motor. After we got the wiring and electrical all fixed, we decided to take the car out and try to run it. It did run, but it was rough. If we wanted it to idle while just sitting it wouldn't do it,however. If I (the driver) slowing opened the choke and gave it gas, the car would start moving and go pretty well. It would go around the track for maybe 100ft. and then it would just cut off. I tried not taking my foot off the gas, but that still didn't work(only caused me to spin out around the corner lol). So we took it inside and put it on jack stands. We took off the carb, cleaned both jets, and sprayed the whole thing with carb clean. We put the carb back on but still died. We can get it to "idle" but it is at a really high RPM. When we try to adjust the idle screw it either revs up more or dies. The previous class and teacher, choked the engine to kill it. So when we took out the plugs they were dark, or rich. We replaced them and the engine still died. NOTE: there was a centrifugal clutch on the car, but it was rusted together so we ended up taking it off. My classmates and I were thinking that the engine doesn't have enough suction, for the fuel pump, at low RPMs. Model: 303777 / Type: 1162-E1 / Code: 03011511
Question by ben2000 | last reply
Womble is a 1995...19,000 miles on the clock...British Racing Green...1275cc...MINI MAYFAIR!!!Yes, folks, it has finally happened. I have my Mini. Kitewife spotted him in the local free paper last night, I went to see him this afternoon, took a test drive, and I now have sore cheeks from all the grinning.I'll be taking the cash round on Wednesday or Thursday, bank allowing, and driving away in the most perfect car on the planet.Full service history, four speed box, no servos on the brakes, or the steering. Single-point injection engine, automatic choke, it is absolutely gorgeous...EDITHere he is! I've tweaked the picture a little - it was a 2-second exposure under street lighting, with the camera balanced on a wall.He's really greener than that.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
So here is what I am trying to accomplish. I am trying to take an old Jacobs wind turbine controller that was designed for a grid tie application and make it off grid. There is a 3 phase "wild" ac input from the turbine that is rectifyed but not clipped by the internal SCR's to variable DC (40-180 volts). The sensing was designed to tie to the grid and power sync'd to line power and freq then exported or imported depending on demand. What I would like to do is build a Variable Dc input inverter that will put out a pure sine wave 120/240 vac split phase. Thus imprinting a usable power out put and allowing the cap/choke inverter to do its part. The design need not handle much power as it is only used as an imprint to regulate the power through the controller. If anyone had any idea on a build for this or a manufacturer that is producing such an item I could really use some ideas. Thanks
Topic by nbrooks
Hello instructables, I'm experiencing an odd problem with my new SET amplifier. I just built Fred Nachbaur's MiniBlok 13EM7 SET amplifier and the bass response is poor with the power turned on, but when I turn off the plate supply and allow the amplifier to run on the energy stored in the capacitors, there is an immediate and very audible change in the rendering of the lower frequencies. I followed the schematic as closely as I could, but until my Edcor 10k:8 Ohm Output Transformer arrives, I am using a small 2K:8 Ohm Output Transformer from an old transistor amplifier. I have tried to install a filter choke and another capacitor in the power supply, but this did not improve the audio quality. Does anyone have any advice? Is the output transformer the problem, and if so, why? Thank you!
Question by Xellers | last reply
Recently, I have been working on a gas 'vaporizer' that evaporates gas before being fed into an engine. During my short-term experiment, I found that this saves ~70% (+-20% for crudity of measurement.) This works because the vapors will burn more thoroughly and cleanly, leading to higher apparent efficiency. Below is a basic diagram of how the system works. You can see there is a container that is half-full with gas, and a hose goes down with many small holes. As the engine's compression draws a vacuum on the container, air will come up through the holes. As it rises, the gas-air surface area rises dramatically, leading to the vaporization of gas. To further increase the surface area, I also added a felt liner on the inside to allow the gas liquid to rise and evaporate. The final mixture ends up very rich, so to compensate, a 'T' fitting has been added to allow air to mix in with the vapors/fumes. Some valves have also been added to control the air inlet (similar to a 'choke') and the amount fed to the engine (similar to a throttle. In fact, it is possible to use the original throttle or choke as a throttle on the carburetor on my tractor!) The problem is: My original design utilized a plastic folgers coffee can, and the flimsy plastic top was hot glued to a thicker plastic cutout for strength and support. Since most glues will dissolve in gasoline, including hot glue, it could not be used. most did not hold anyway. I also tried JP weld plastic cement and it did not hold at all. I had to trash this build. I did, however, get enough use to run the tractor for several minutes while testing gas use. I found that the tractor used nearly twice as much simply running on gas than the fumes. I did not have the float valve and electric pump hooked up with the prototype. Also the 3/4in housing I used may be a bit constrictive and also seems to get slightly damaged by the gas. It will not be a long-term solution. So I need to redesign the project, and I am thinking of using a 1-3 gallon bucket that is sealed or a gas tank. I need good almost air-tight seals on everything. I am asking for any ideas related to the construction of this device and any tips you may have.
Question by -max- | last reply
If I am to use an audio amplifier as a power supply for a Tesla coil could I do without a spark gap and primary capacitor? I will be operating the coil within the audible spectrum (1Hz - 20KHz) so an amplifier fits the bill. It's a 2 channel magnetic field power amplifier rated for 750W per channel. That's 750RMS not 750IFL. (If lightning strikes) The current would flow as follows: Power Amp> 4ohm Load> NST 5000v 60ma> RF Choke> Primary Coil> Secondary Coil 1. Do I need a capacitor bank between the RFC and the primary? 2. Can a few feet of 28AWG galvanized steel wire act as a reliable resistor for the 300W current? What about 750W? If not, what can I substitute? 3. Can the amp hold together? I need it in one piece. Please point out the flaws. Thank you
Question by imMrDude
Who doesn't have trouble around the opisite gender? Who adores the females? Who can simply go up to a girl and have a decent conversation with them without choking or talking giberish? Who finds themselves decent looking for girls to like? Most embarresing situation with a girl? general questions. I personally am ok (and mildly ok) when they ask me a question or need me to help them. I have never started conversations with them but recently a girl that i really have fancied has tried to talk to about tv shows with me out of the blue. :D:D:D:D :P:P:P:P:P I am well chuffed about that. Thankfully i have not yet talked giberish to a girl. yay! I find myself decent looking for girls for me to like and perhaps attractive for them :P. My most embarresing situation with a girl was accidently slammin a door into her face because i did not know she was there. oops lol. Base your posts like that. : P And yes i do know i am curious! Btw susposed to be pic of girls : / heh heh?
Topic by Baron A | last reply
Hello there and greetings, I've just bought from ebay, a brand new replacement motor and shiny new speed controller for a treadmill. The motor is a PM DC cont. duty, 2.5hp @ 230VDC, 9.5Amps. It has 4 wires coming out of it, Red, Black (connected to the brushes on the motor), and two blue&white; wires which are connected together using spade connectors. The speed controller board is fiited inside an aluminium heat sink case. It has 7 male spade connectors protruding and they are labelled: LG1: Blue..........(AC1) LG2: White........(AC2) LG3: ..................(Earth Ground) CHOKE: LG4 LG5 AC MOTOR: LG6: Red..........(A+) LG7: Black........(A-) I'm afraid i don't possess the know-how although i'm quite handy and have some faded kowledge of electrics and electronics but i'm afraid im not too sure how to hook it up. Also could someone tell me what kind of power supply i need for this setup. Much appreciated and many thanks in advance.
Question by jackherer | last reply
I want to build a tesla coil, but I want to verify with the instructables community that it won't blow up, burn down my house, turn into skynet, etc. Here's my plaaaauuuuuuhn: For the transformer, I'll be using an old negative ion generator thing that takes in 120VAC and outputs 7.5kv(pic). For the primary, I'll use old speaker wire in a cone shape (possibly using acrylic). For the secondary, I'll use 32- gauge magnet wire (pic). And for the spark gap, I'll use two bolts in a box, possibly with a computer fan cooling it. And for the capacitors, I'll just use an array of Leyden jars. My questions: 1. What diameter should the coil form be? I have some random white tubing which has an OD of 1/2 inches, 1/2 PVC piping (which actually has an OD of 7/8 inches), and 3/4 inch PVC piping. And is there a better alternative to these? 2. Should I use chokes on the input/output of my transformer? For those, I think I'll just wrap a bunch of wire around a pen. 3. Should I varnish it? 4. How powerful will the EM be from this thing? Exploding computers aren't that good. If I have made any errrors, please tell me.
Question by Shagglepuff | last reply
Recently, I had complained about my abnormally small throat. Well, I just wanted to say... it has gotten so bad to the point where sometimes I have trouble BREATHING. I cannot swallow properly sometimes, and even FLUIDS have trouble going down my throat. Well, they don't get stuck like food, but I can feel them go down my through extremely slow. I am scared as hell. I am scared to eat. I am scared of choking again.Just a few days ago, my mom, dad, and I had pizza for dinner. I only had 2 slices of pizza. Both my mom and dad had 3, maybe 4 pieces (they were small). My parents were done, and I was still halfway done my second slice. My dad is taking me to the doctors either this week or next week. Please, tell me what you think and if you have the same problems===============================UPDATE============================= My dad is taking me to the doc tomorrow. I am excited, even though they may shove cameras down my throat, haha. When you see this topic has "Triple update" I will tell you what the man in the white suit said.
Topic by Flumpkins | last reply
I made a quite intersting discovery today.The use of mixed orientations for a stronger or more directed field on one side and a much weaker on the other side of a magnet is nothing new. But if you check modern wind turbines or even just any old hard drive you find "chokes". I talked about shielding before but combining shielding a choking provides again another level of manipulation.If you ask anyone who claims to know magentic field or sience in general then you right away hear: There is no such thing as magnet with just a single pole!Like a battery one pole can't exist without the other!Keep going and your conversation parten either get angry or declares you a nut case.Also said before: The laws of nature and physics are not set in stone or complete for that matter!We only use what we know, or to be precise what we told to take as facts.A magnet with just one pole is impossible to manufacture, if you only think like making the magnet like any other magnet.Even cutting it in half will only give you two normal magnets again.Why is that so?How are magnets made is what you need to know.No matter the material they start as a blank and during the final processing an intense electromagnetic field is used to "prime" them.Like you would do on a screwdriver the material then keeps the "charge" and becomes magnetic.And this process requires a certain orientation.Imagine a big hydraulic press to make the magnet with some super strong electromagnets right beside the forms.Explains why you won't find a block magnet with the poles on opposing corners - the form is not designed to be rotated ;)Ferrite magnets can often be machined.If you mark the field direction of a block then you could just cut it into the shape you need.Like a half moon, triangle, pyramid...The orientation does not change, so you need to create the cuts so your required orientation matches the orignal block.Creates a lot of waste, is messy and often the magnets shatter.Still not possible to create a mono pole ;)But it allows for a great deal of field manipulations.For example a thick north and a thin south pole would show very different field strengths at the poles.How to create a mono or single pole magnet then??If you think outside modern science restraints it is suprisingly easy!You see, unlike a battery the magnet does not care if the "current" flows back to its own pole or a pole from a different magnet.In a hard drive the choked magnets have a field strength between them that is not just twice as much as th one from a single magnet.The field between the magnets is very stable too!No matter where you measure it is the same.Place two magnets in the same configuration with the choke and all you get between them is a mess.To understand the reality with magnets I need to explain a bit more though:If it does not matter from where to where the field lines go the it becomes obvious that you can guide them.Horse shoe magnets of the old kind where just two steel bars with a block magnet between them!Take a compass and check from what distance your magnet will start to affect the orientation.Now take two iron bars, rods, block or similar of about twice that length.Place the compass between one end and the magnet between the other end.Even with a little gap your compass will still move!You just extended the length of the field lines and directed them somewhere else as it also works with odd shapes.We know know and confirmed how choking works and as shielding is basically the same thing but for a different purpose you might get an idea where I am heading already.A "potted" magnet, like what you find in a speaker or as a hook magnet utilises two destinct features.a) A ring magnet is used.b) The field lines are directed to a specific area.One has them directed into a gap for a coil like in a wind turbine, the other to the surface to massively increase the field strenght in that area.If you take either apart you will notice the magnet just by itself is considerably weaker.Removing a pole from a magnet...If you paid attention so far and have a few magnets around then you already developed a feeling for the difference.Lets crank it up a notch, shall we?Make this experiment:Take two identical magnets and a soft steel bar or similar of lesser thickness than the magnets.Usually around 2-3mm for smaller N52 Neodymiums will do.If you dare make the steel the same size as the magnets.Now place one magnet on the steel and use the other to observe the difference in feel.There won't be much and both poles should still fell like before only that the field is now slightly longer.Trying to get two magnets to touch at the same pole is really hard, but see what happens if you add the other magnet on the other side of the steel...Despite having the same pole on the steel they won't repel and stick to the steel.Checking the field now with a magnet provides a very different feel!It is like having a magnet with a split pole where the opposing pole now is in the center.Impossible I know but you have it in your hand, so deal with the explanation yourself ;)And if that is so damn easy then how hard can it be to actually remove one pole fully?Design of the impossible magnet...If you want the south pole only then it would be the entire surface of your impossible magnet.That means you either need to make sacrifices or get creative for the next steps.Easiest from my experiments is to sacrifice like all scientists do and allow for some minor gaps.I won't give any dimension or step by step instructions.Think 3D and use your imagination.Our impossible magnet starts from the center.All magnets used should provide the same field strenght!To be precise it means no matter their grade, the the "force" of the magnets should be as close to identical as possible even if the size is different.You can use stacks or different types/grades...The center is a square block of soft steel, or iron as pure as possible - it needs to have a low "resistance" if you compare them to batteries and to avoid confusing terms.On this "dice" you place one magnet on each face, preferably of identical size to the block.So, for a 10x10mm block you use 10x10mm magnets -simple isn't it.All magnets are place with the same pole onto the block!In out example to get the south pole outside you would use the north pole.Now use six bigger magnet blocks for another layer.This time they are placed in attraction mode, meaning you let them stick together naturally.The resulting magnet will be far from perfect but you will have a hard time finding a strong attraction to the soth pole of a magnet if you move it around your cube.If you check the geometry you will now see how 45° degree angles and matching sizes for the blocks would be beneficial.Using ferrite magnets you can machine them to the desired size and use a thin aluminium or breass frame to hold the outside properly together, like edging on a fancy tranport box or chest.Check the magnet now and try to find anything else but a destict south pole on all faces and corners.No more nother pole....Does that mean it really is a mono or single pole magnet?Since modern science does not even consider a construction like this to be worth testing you already know the anser.For those working on a different level with magnets it will be a true single pole magnet.For the rest it will just be another fake.As by science a permanent magnet is defined to have two poles and to have field lines going from one pole to the other.All modern machines using them operate on this principle and "fact".But if I would give you a block of steel that has a core of lets say brass and a suffien wall thickness...Then this block would appear to be a steel block and nothing else.Modern science fails to see a magnet any other than a battery!If the "current" does not need to go back to same pole and there is no need for the field lines to go back to the outside pole then it is a single ple magnet like the faked box is a steel box.The physical outcome or in our case magnetic field is what defines it!The contra...All good has some bad, magnets are no different.Purely scientific viewed it would be impossible to create a gap free magnet like I described.And because never all field lines will take the shortcut there will still be a small amount of "north pole" to be found on the outside.But if that is in the range of about 1% of the field strength of the magnet then I say it can be neglected for almost all real life uses of such a magnet.Like the Halbach Array it is just a neat way of manipulating and if you like bending the known interpretation of our scientific understanding.Possible uses for these magnets exclude convention designs and for this reason alone anything you create with them will be the target of scepticism to say it nice.Ok then, what real life uses could there be for something we never needed?The question is the answer, as the impossible magnet is the solution.Ever watched these shopping shows in the night program?"It solves problems you didn't even know you might get..."Means that if you ever get the ide that your project requires a single pole magnet then you know how to make one ;)All I can up with would go against common scientific understanding and teachings, so I will spare you with my use cases ;)And what is missing here to actually make it work?Quite a lot as you might have noticed in your experiments if you use really good test equippment.Not so much however if you consider what I said about shielding and choking ;)Provide a path of far less resistance and shield the rest that still bothers you.I am not providing a ready to go model here that you can buy, someone else will do that if they see a financial gain it.My gain is provide a new understanding of things we forgot by giving your brain things to work with and develop.You might still say in the end that my way (or your results) are not good enough in some way.But then please also consider how many other people or documents you might be able to find that would have provided you with this information.Free energy is only a myth for as along as we allow ourselfs to only trust what modern science allows us to have.Allow the old knowledge in and every now and then simple ignore what you know and things become possible sooner than you might think.Wind and water were used as a source of free energy since the dawn of mankind.Our first motorised boats used the same "wheels" we already trusted to be driven by water to power a mill, saw or similar.And after we learned about motors we also found a way to make wind - by reversing our trusted wind mills into a fan.Instead of using the free energy to generate power for us we evolved to use create wind and propulsion by providing power to drive the same thin in reverse.Using the sun for power other by using a mirror was seen as witchcraft throughout history, then we got solar cells...Same for heat in the form of peltier elements and other things...Why then should magnets be any different??Just "Because it is so!" did not work for wind, water and solar, not even for heat....All it takes is a little notch in the right direction to change the way we think about magnets.We have no problem using electromagnets to make a motor spin.We have no problem using magnetic field of any kind to drive motors or generate electricity.We even fail to have a problem by manipulation electromagnetic fields for that purpose.But we struggle like an ant in sand hole to reach the surface again to see what is outside our trap before something grabs us from behind when it comes to permanent magnets.Even worse if you dare to claim your magnetic machine delivers a higher output energy than what you use to make it run.And wasn't it exactly the same ignorance and manifested "knowledge" that got revised so many times throughout history already?Again: Why should magnets or their understanding of interaction be any different?If you follow the above with just matching magnets and the core cube then the result will be at least very surprising to you.Allow this surprise to be an inspiration to improve instead of seeing as a proof of failure ;)And if you made it then please post about it here.Let me know what disappointed you with the outcome.Let me know what really got you wondering.Let me know if you found a suffiently strong north pole to rival the impossible southpole! ;)Start sharing, make other people wonder and make them share it to, let us go viral!The first to post a conclusive Youtube video with results is certain to get a lot, lot, lot attention....
Topic by Downunder35m
Some1 brought the following quote to another forum i am inits sure been copy pasted alot of times before me. the original author is unknownI was working in a job running the campus email system some years ago when I got a call from the chairman of the statistics department. "We're having a problem sending email out of the department." "What's the problem?" I asked. "We can't send mail more than 500 miles," the chairman explained. I choked on my latte. "Come again?" "We can't send mail farther than 500 miles from here," he repeated. "A little bit more, actually. Call it 520 miles. But no farther." "Um... Email really doesn't work that way, generally," I said, trying to keep panic out of my voice. One doesn't display panic when speaking to a department chairman, even of a relatively impoverished department like statistics. "What makes you think you can't send mail more than 500 miles?" "It's not what I *think*," the chairman replied testily. "You see, when we first noticed this happening, a few days ago--" "You waited a few DAYS?" I interrupted, a tremor tinging my voice. "And you couldn't send email this whole time?" "We could send email. Just not more than--" "--500 miles, yes," I finished for him, "I got that. But why didn't you call earlier?" "Well, we hadn't collected enough data to be sure of what was going on until just now." Right. This is the chairman of *statistics*. "Anyway, I asked one of the geostatisticians to look into it--" "Geostatisticians..." "--yes, and she's produced a map showing the radius within which we can send email to be slightly more than 500 miles. There are a number of destinations within that radius that we can't reach, either, or reach sporadically, but we can never email farther than this radius." "I see," I said, and put my head in my hands. "When did this start? A few days ago, you said, but did anything change in your systems at that time?" "Well, the consultant came in and patched our server and rebooted it. But I called him, and he said he didn't touch the mail system." "Okay, let me take a look, and I'll call you back," I said, scarcely believing that I was playing along. It wasn't April Fool's Day. I tried to remember if someone owed me a practical joke. I logged into their department's server, and sent a few test mails. This was in the Research Triangle of North Carolina, and a test mail to my own account was delivered without a hitch. Ditto for one sent to Richmond, and Atlanta, and Washington. Another to Princeton (400 miles) worked. But then I tried to send an email to Memphis (600 miles). It failed. Boston, failed. Detroit, failed. I got out my address book and started trying to narrow this down. New York (420 miles) worked, but Providence (580 miles) failed. I was beginning to wonder if I had lost my sanity. I tried emailing a friend who lived in North Carolina, but whose ISP was in Seattle. Thankfully, it failed. If the problem had had to do with the geography of the human recipient and not his mail server, I think I would have broken down in tears. Having established that--unbelievably--the problem as reported was true, and repeatable, I took a look at the sendmail.cf file. It looked fairly normal. In fact, it looked familiar. I diffed it against the sendmail.cf in my home directory. It hadn't been altered--it was a sendmail.cf I had written. And I was fairly certain I hadn't enabled the "FAIL_MAIL_OVER_500_MILES" option. At a loss, I telnetted into the SMTP port. The server happily responded with a SunOS sendmail banner. Wait a minute... a SunOS sendmail banner? At the time, Sun was still shipping Sendmail 5 with its operating system, even though Sendmail 8 was fairly mature. Being a good system administrator, I had standardized on Sendmail 8. And also being a good system administrator, I had written a sendmail.cf that used the nice long self-documenting option and variable names available in Sendmail 8 rather than the cryptic punctuation-mark codes that had been used in Sendmail 5. The pieces fell into place, all at once, and I again choked on the dregs of my now-cold latte. When the consultant had "patched the server," he had apparently upgraded the version of SunOS, and in so doing *downgraded* Sendmail. The upgrade helpfully left the sendmail.cf alone, even though it was now the wrong version. It so happens that Sendmail 5--at least, the version that Sun shipped, which had some tweaks--could deal with the Sendmail 8 sendmail.cf, as most of the rules had at that point remained unaltered. But the new long configuration options--those it saw as junk, and skipped. And the sendmail binary had no defaults compiled in for most of these, so, finding no suitable settings in the sendmail.cf file, they were set to zero. One of the settings that was set to zero was the timeout to connect to the remote SMTP server. Some experimentation established that on this particular machine with its typical load, a zero timeout would abort a connect call in slightly over three milliseconds. An odd feature of our campus network at the time was that it was 100% switched. An outgoing packet wouldn't incur a router delay until hitting the POP and reaching a router on the far side. So time to connect to a lightly-loaded remote host on a nearby network would actually largely be governed by the speed of light distance to the destination rather than by incidental router delays. Feeling slightly giddy, I typed into my shell: $ units 1311 units, 63 prefixes You have: 3 millilightseconds You want: miles 558.84719 / 0.0017893979 "500 miles, or a little bit more."
Topic by 11010010110
Some of you have probably seen my other 2 OLD forum topics, but if you haven't, I will explain it to you here. I have been having BAD throat problems for a few months now. Since I was about 9 I had food getting stuck in my throat. So one day, I was eating lunch, and food got stuck, slid down my throat and into my wind pipe. I started choking and couldn't breath. After that dramatic incident, I noticed a new symptom. I physically could not swallow. And on top of that I had an old symptom: heartburn. So I go to a doctor. He says I would have to get a scope. So THIS is where the update begins. It was early September. I go in to get a scope. I wake up with the memory spam of a goldfish. So my family and I wait a while to go to the doctor for the results. So I go to my appointment where my doctor explains what is going on. ALL THE WAY DOWN my throat I have ulcers. Thus, around my ulcers they swell up, causing the difficulty swallowing There are these things that MOST (not all) people have called esophills. I cannot find any info on these things so I will explain them to you instead of a link. These "esophills" are basically cells in your throat that react to allergies. They could swell up, itch, burn, etc. Well, mine swell up. The average person has about 5. I have 21. After explaining these things, my doctor says I have Eosinophilic Esophogitis (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eosinophilic_esophagitis) and says I have to get an allergy test. Pardon my french in this paragraph....I go to see an allergist. He says to wait in the room for a few minutes until this hot girl comes in. She takes these blue pointy things and pricks me with them as liquid comes out. So she walks away, and we wait. 2 of the pricks start itching like hell. The doctor comes in, and says those two pricks are samples of corn and apples. Apples? No biggy. Corn? Damn...........why is that bad? Things that have corn that I was banned from: Soda, chips, pretzels, cereal, cereal bars, bread, and hell of a lot of other things. So I don't eat ANYTHING with corn for about a week until the blood test results come in. About a week after the allergist appointment, he calls and says corn and apples came out negative. So I could go back to eating things with corn. Tomorrow (10/4) I have to go get ANOTHER allergy test by taping food to my back. Hungary? Just rip the food off my back. Thanks for reading! C'ya will I go cry in a corner /sarcasm
Topic by Flumpkins | last reply
Well apparently according to many websites I've visted, claim that the longest cable you can use for a usb device is just a little over 15 feet. That said, I'm one for completely disregarding warnings. According to the text on one website: Q: How long of a cable can I use to connect my USB device? A: In practice, the USB specification limits the cable length between Full-speed USB devices to 5 meters (A little under 16 feet, 5 inches). For a Low-Speed device, the limit is 3 meters (9 feet, 10 inches). So my dilemma is that I have an a$$hole neighbour that is stealing things from me and I want to catch him. Being cheap, I'm going to use my webcam instead of spending $50 on a low resolution color camera that only outputs composite (although that would allow me to make cables easier and I DO have a capture card on my pc) but this is besides the point. So I found a telephone cable (as it has 4 wires just like USB) and I figure it's got to be AT LEAST 20 feet long, maybe 30, which is long enough for what I need. I thought because It's all over the internet how apparently the limit is 15 feet, that is would just NOT work at all. 10 minutes later I had spliced the telephone wire between the USB connector and the webcam, wiring black to black, red to red, green to green, and yellow to white (usb side). Upon plugging it into my desktop usb hub, sure enough, my computer recognized it, and the video came through just fine. So I post this forum-topic to SHOW that it is infact possible to go OVER the so-called usb limit. I got the idea originally from a video I watched last night where a guy had a webcam mounted to the middle of his ceiling for a project he was working on, and it appeared that he had spliced in a longer wire than the webcam came with, and strung it across the ceiling, and then the wall. I DO have a question and I AGAIN request the help of all you helpful instructables members! My webcam as-is can see IR (infared) light, as I've tested this with a remote control and it can see the white light coming out of it. So the question is, how hard would it be to build an array of IR LED's to light up my yard, not even nessesarily pointing away from the source of the webcam, but say, an array of led's above the door of my shed shining down so if someone does attempt to enter my shed, I will be able to clearly record them. Long post I know, but this is VERY important to me that this works and I'm hoping I didn't waste my time constructing this, I've had a few things stolen from me recently and it's really pissing me off. For instance, one of my bicycles was stolen, RIGHT FROM MY FRONT DOORSTEP! It has wayyyy more sentimental value to me than actual cash value and I'm literally ready to choke the living sh)t out of someone!
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
These tubes are available as industrial supplies by the dozen but quite costly.Tried a few designs available on the net but either they are next to impossible to print using FDM or fail to provide any significant temperature difference.Just to be clear: If amient air temp is 25°C then I would like to get below zero on the cold end.And well, I would like to be able to salvage a small fridge compressor with considerably less air flow than a shop compressor.Now to the problem(s) I face:1: The temp on the cold end is affected by both the length of the tube and by how much air can escape on the hot side.Makes finding a suitable diameter and length quite tricky if you don't have fancy simulation software at your disposal :(2: The standard cylindrical design for the "engine" is not really that efficient :(To make them work a lot of pressure is required, usually they won't do anything below 85PSI and most require about as much air volume as a little air grinder.3: 3D printed parts with complex insides are a true pain to clean, seal and make sturdy enough to last more than a few minutes under these conditions.I am currently experimenting with PETG as it is a bit more temp resistant and stronger.My understanding of these vortex tubes is that the outer vortex, created by the engine, travels up the tube.At the outlet valve the vortext is split so that the fastest and hottest air escapes while the colder air is directed dow, through the outer vortex and at a significantly lower speed for the rotation.Scientists can't really agree on the directions and spin of the inner and outer vortex :(My theory is that the hot air is created by a pressure increase towards the end of the tube.As this also expands the air, the inner vortex will be choked off so to say.Only option for it is to go through and by doing so loosing a lot of pressure on the exit - the stream cools down.The circulation around the vortex spin however means that speeds of well over the speed of sound are reached.I can only assume that at this speed there will also be some energy exchange happening based on the static electricity created where the two stream "rub" against each other.So far only models with a finely sanded inner tube actually performed at all.Will one day have to try using a thick plastic straw as a liner...Questions:1. Do you think a complex, conical nozzle is required?The commercial ones all use them.However I tend to think that a slotted approach might be better.Instead of adjusting the gap of the needle valve two half cylinders with slots can create a finely adjustable outlet.Way easier to desing if all parts shall be printable....2. If 1 is not a a real requirement:How to best design the slots for the correct air flow??In the direction of the rotation?Straight?Or even against the rotation so the air will be forced out onlyby the pressure but not by direction?3. Is there any easy workaround for Sketchup that would allow me to create sphere with the required channels along the inner wall to create a fast vortex?I can do screw, nut and bolts, a sphere is no problem either.But I can't seem to find a way to comine both techniques so they work on the inside of a sphere :(Why a sphere you wonder? ;)I like harmony for these things a an egg or a sphere is way more harmonic than a cylinder.On top of that it would allow to create a vortex to my specs instead of chance.Ideally the "threads" would get a smaller pitch with every turn.This forces the airstream to not olny increase in speed (decreasing diameter) but also to be "compressed" before even entering the tube section.The inner stream would pass through a tube inside this sphere, after passing through the tiny gap the upgoing airstream created.My hope is that such a design would allow for the low flow rates of a fridge compressor while being quite small in size as well.Anyone with good ideas or tips?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
It is somewhat long, but an incredibly interesting story of what happened to me this weekend. After what I went through this weekend, my view of fate took a 180 degree turn. Some background information, I have two dogs, a few gates around my house that need to be closed to make sure my dogs stay in our yard. It starts out when I arrived home from school. My bus drops me off at the end of my driveway, and as my brother and I walk up, our mom is there with our main gate open, which usually is not. I saw her up there and knew it wasn't good. She tells me Toby is gone. Toby escaped through a back gate with my other dog Casper. My neighbor picked up Casper, but Toby was no where to be found. We pretty much scoured every single road in the area, so we knew he wasn't hit. We also told everyone we saw to keep and eye out, and asked them if they seen Toby. ~The oil company came to our house while my mom was out and about. They left our back gate open. When the dogs escaped, she went to our basement to see the oil tank, and it was full. She knew the oil people came, and they fill it through the back of our house, where our back gate is. 4 years ago, the same oil company cut our Invisible Fence Wire, and tried to tie it back together, so it worked off and on.(Which we found out later). The dog named Buddy escaped and got hit by a car. So we get the invisible fence man out here and he sees that the oil company cut our wire. ~Oil people, if you are reading this, close the gates please. ~So as you see, the oil company killed one of our dogs already, so I was fuming when I found out it was their fault again. We were planning on going to the mountains that night, so my dad, brother, and sister, and I went up with Casper, while my mom stayed at home to see if anyone would call about Toby or Toby would return home. On Saturday, we got a call from our mom saying that Toby was dropped off at an animal shelter, and she picked him up. We were ecstatic, and the rest of our day was awesome. That night, we went to bed early because none of us slept Friday night, because we were thinking about Toby. ~Thats only the half of it. Recap: Dogs escape, 1 dog found Friday, other Found at shelter Saturday, we are in mountains with Casper, and go to sleep Saturday night. I wake up Sunday morning at 5, to my brother turning the light on, and he walked out of the room. I thought, well this is weird, so I turned it off and rolled back over. My brother walked back in, and turned the light on. He told me Casper isn't moving. (In the mountains th dog sleeps with us in the bed.) I look at Casper, not moving at all. Casper is deaf, so sometimes he is always sound sleeper, but always wakes up when you touch him. I look at his face, and his eyes are in the back of his head. My brother gets my dad, my dad (doctor) tries CPR. It was too late. Casper passed away. He showed no symptoms, no struggle ( my brother didn't choke him), dandy as could be the night before, it was unbelievable. What Luck? So I am not religious what so ever, and don;t really believe in much religious stuff. But I felt that because we got Toby back, Casper had to pass away. It is so weird that the dog we thought was gone in the beginning, came back to us, while the one we had no inclination of every passing away, well, passed away. So we thought Toby was gone, got him back, and in the mountains, the one we had, died. Recap: Dogs escape, 1 found Friday, Other Picked up at shelter saturday, Casper up to the mountains, 2nd dog at home, Sunday morning Casper dies in his sleep. This weekend pretty much was the most stressful, and worst of my life. I am grateful for the man who brought Toby to the shelter, but I guess because we got Toby back, God felt it was Casper's time to go. I do not know what I'd do if we lost 2 dogs in a span of 48 hours. Thanks for reading all of this, I had to get it down. It is unbelievable. I am thinking of posting up an instructable on how to increase your chances of finding a lost dog.
Topic by Brennn10 | last reply
These are hilarious!!! There all REAL funny product lables that people have found. Here's the link to where I got them: http://www.rinkworks.com/said/warnings.shtml Product Warnings: • "Do not use if you cannot see clearly to read the information in the information booklet." -- In the information booklet. • "Caution: The contents of this bottle should not be fed to fish." -- On a bottle of shampoo for dogs. • "For external use only!" -- On a curling iron. • "Warning: This product can burn eyes." -- On a curling iron. • "Do not use in shower." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping or unconscious." -- On a hand-held massaging device. • "Do not place this product into any electronic equipment." -- On the case of a chocolate CD in a gift basket. • "Recycled flush water unsafe for drinking." -- On a toilet at a public sports facility in Ann Arbor, Michigan. • "Shin pads cannot protect any part of the body they do not cover." -- On a pair of shin guards made for bicyclists. • "This product not intended for use as a dental drill." -- On an electric rotary tool. • "Caution: Do not spray in eyes." -- On a container of underarm deodorant. • "Do not drive with sunshield in place." -- On a cardboard sunshield that keeps the sun off the dashboard. • "Caution: This is not a safety protective device." -- On a plastic toy helmet used as a container for popcorn. • "Do not use near fire, flame, or sparks." -- On an "Aim-n-Flame" fireplace lighter. • "Battery may explore or leak." -- On a battery. See a scanned image. • "Do not eat toner." -- On a toner cartridge for a laser printer. • "Not intended for highway use." -- On a 13-inch wheel on a wheelbarrow. • "This product is not to be used in bathrooms." -- On a Holmes bathroom heater. • "May irritate eyes." -- On a can of self-defense pepper spray. • "Eating rocks may lead to broken teeth." -- On a novelty rock garden set called "Popcorn Rock." • "Caution! Contents hot!" -- On a Domino's Pizza box. • "Caution: Hot beverages are hot!" -- On a coffee cup. • "Caution: Shoots rubber bands." -- On a product called "Rubber Band Shooter." • "Warning: May contain small parts." -- On a frisbee. • "Do not use orally." -- On a toilet bowl cleaning brush. • "Please keep out of children." -- On a butcher knife. • "Not suitable for children aged 36 months or less." -- On a birthday card for a 1 year old. • "Do not recharge, put in backwards, or use." -- On a battery. • "Warning: Do not use on eyes." -- In the manual for a heated seat cushion. • "Do not look into laser with remaining eye." -- On a laser pointer. • "Do not use for drying pets." -- In the manual for a microwave oven. • "For use on animals only." -- On an electric cattle prod. • "For use by trained personnel only." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Keep out of reach of children and teenagers." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Remember, objects in the mirror are actually behind you." -- On a motorcycle helmet-mounted rear-view mirror. • "Warning: Riders of personal watercraft may suffer injury due to the forceful injection of water into body cavities either by falling into the water or while mounting the craft." -- In the manual for a jetski. • "Warning: Do not climb inside this bag and zip it up. Doing so will cause injury and death." -- A label inside a protective bag (for fragile objects), which measures 15cm by 15cm by 12cm. • "Do not use as ear plugs." -- On a package of silly putty. • "Please store in the cold section of the refrigerator." -- On a bag of fresh grapes in Australia. • "Warning: knives are sharp!" -- On the packaging of a sharpening stone. • "Not for weight control." -- On a pack of Breath Savers. • "Twist top off with hands. Throw top away. Do not put top in mouth." -- On the label of a bottled drink. • "Theft of this container is a crime." -- On a milk crate. • "Do not use intimately." -- On a tube of deodorant. • "Warning: has been found to cause cancer in laboratory mice." -- On a box of rat poison. • "Fragile. Do not drop." -- Posted on a Boeing 757. • "Cannot be made non-poisonous." -- On the back of a can of de-icing windshield fluid. • "Caution: Remove infant before folding for storage." -- On a portable stroller. • "Excessive dust may be irritating to shin and eyes." -- On a tube of agarose powder, used to make gels. • "Look before driving." -- On the dash board of a mail truck. • "Do not iron clothes on body." -- On packaging for a Rowenta iron. • "Do not drive car or operate machinery." -- On Boot's children's cough medicine. • "For indoor or outdoor use only." -- On a string of Christmas lights. • "Wearing of this garment does not enable you to fly." -- On a child sized Superman costume. • "This door is alarmed from 7:00pm - 7:00am." -- On a hospital's outside access door. • "Beware! To touch these wires is instant death. Anyone found doing so will be prosecuted." -- On a sign at a railroad station. • "Warning: do not use if you have prostate problems." -- On a box of Midol PMS relief tablets. • "Product will be hot after heating." -- On a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not turn upside down." -- On the bottom of a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not light in face. Do not expose to flame." -- On a lighter. • "Choking hazard: This toy is a small ball." -- On the label for a cheap rubber ball toy. • "Not for human consumption." -- On a package of dice. • "May be harmful if swallowed." -- On a shipment of hammers. • "Using Ingenio cookware to destroy your old pots may void your warranty." -- A printed message that appears in a television advertisement when the presenter demonstrates how strong the cookware is by using it to beat up and destroy a regular frying pan. • "Do not attempt to stop the blade with your hand." -- In the manual for a Swedish chainsaw. • "Do not dangle the mouse by its cable or throw the mouse at co-workers." -- From a manual for an SGI computer. • "Warning: May contain nuts." -- On a package of peanuts. • "Do not eat." -- On a slip of paper in a stereo box, referring to the styrofoam packing. • "Do not eat if seal is missing." -- On said seal. • "Remove occupants from the stroller before folding it." • "Access hole only -- not intended for use in lifting box." -- On the sides of a shipping carton, just above cut-out openings which one would assume were handholds. • "Warning: May cause drowsiness." -- On a bottle of Nytol, a brand of sleeping pills. • "Warning: Misuse may cause injury or death." -- Stamped on the metal barrel of a .22 calibre rifle. • "Do not use orally after using rectally." -- In the instructions for an electric thermometer. • "Turn off motor before using this product." -- On the packaging for a chain saw file, used to sharpen the cutting teeth on the chain. • "Not to be used as a personal flotation device." -- On a 6x10 inch inflatable picture frame. • "Do not put in mouth." -- On a box of bottle rockets. • "Remove plastic before eating." -- On the wrapper of a Fruit Roll-Up snack. • "Not dishwasher safe." -- On a remote control for a TV. • "For lifting purposes only." -- On the box for a car jack. • "Do not put lit candles on phone." -- On the instructions for a cordless phone. • "Warning! This is not underwear! Do not attempt to put in pants." -- On the packaging for a wristwatch. • "Do not wear for sumo wrestling." -- From a set of washing instructions. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Assurances: • "Safe for use around pets." -- On a box of Arm & Hammer Cat Litter. ________________________________________ Small Print From Commercials: • "Do not use house paint on face." -- In a Visa commercial that depicts an expecting couple looking for paint at a hardware store. • "Do not drive cars in ocean." -- In a car commercial which shows a car in the ocean. • "Always drive on roads. Not on people." -- From a car commercial which shows a vehicle "body-surfing" at a concert. • "For a limited time only." -- From a Rally's commercial that described how their burgers were fresh. ________________________________________ Signs and Notices: • "No stopping or standing." -- A sign at bus stops everywhere. • "Do not sit under coconut trees." -- A sign on a coconut palm in a West Palm Beach park circa 1950. • "These rows reserved for parents with children." -- A sign in a church. • "All cups leaving this store, rather full or empty, must be paid for." -- A sign in a Cumberland Farms in Hillsboro, New Hampshire. • "Malfunction: Too less water." -- A notice left on a coffee machine. • "Prescriptions cannot be filled by phone." -- On a form in a clinic. • "You could be a winner! No purchase necessary. Details inside." -- On a bag of Fritos. • "Fits one head." -- On a hotel-provided shower cap box. • "Payment is due by the due date." -- On a credit card statement. • "No small children." -- On a laundromat triple washer. • "Warning: Ramp Ends In Stairs." -- A sign, correctly describing the end of a concrete ramp intended for handicap access to a bridge. ________________________________________ Safety Procedures: • "Take care: new non-slip surface." -- On a sign in front of a newly renovated ramp that led to the entrance of a building. • "In case of flood, proceed uphill. In case of flash flood, proceed uphill quickly." -- One of the emergency safety procedures at a summer camp. ________________________________________ Ingredients: • "Ingredients: Artificially bleached flour, sugar, vegetable fat, yeast, salt, gluten, soya flour, emulsifier 472 (E) & 481, flour treatment agents, enzymes, water. May contain: fruit." -- The ingredients list on a package of fruit buns. • "100% pure yarn." -- On a sweater. • "Some materials may irritate sensitive skin. Please look at the materials if you believe this may be the case. Materials: Covering: 100% Unknown. Stuffing: 100% Unknown." -- On a pillow. • "Cleans and refreshes without soap or water. Contains: Water, fragrance & soap." -- On the packet for a moist towelette. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Instructions: • "Remove the plastic wrapper." -- The first instruction on a bag of microwave popcorn; to see the instructions, one first has to remove the plastic wrapper and unfold the pouch. • "Take one capsule by mouth three times daily until gone." -- On a box of pills. • "Open packet. Eat contents." -- Instructions on a packet of airline peanuts. • "Remove wrapper, open mouth, insert muffin, eat." -- Instructions on the packaging for a muffin at a 7-11. • "Use like regular soap." -- On a bar of Dial soap. • "Instructions: usage known." -- Instructions on a can of black pepper. • "Serving suggestion: Defrost." -- On a Swann frozen dinner. • "Simply pour the biscuits into a bowl and allow the cat to eat when it wants." -- On a bag of cat biscuits. • "In order to get out of car, open door, get out, lock doors, and then close doors." -- In a car manual. • "Please include the proper portion of your bill." -- On the envelope for an auto insurance bill. • "The appliance is switched on by setting the on/off switch to the 'on' position." -- Instructions for an espresso kettle. • "For heat-retaining corrugated cardboard technology to function properly, close lid." -- On a Domino's sandwich box. ________________________________________ Requirements: • "Optional modem required." -- On a computer software package.
Topic by LoneWolf | last reply
I've copied the conversation here so we could remove the information from the original instructable's comments. I figure this would also be of some interest to other forum viewers who may have similar problems, or may be able to chip in. The long and short of it is, 92033 (Ed) has a refurbished laptop that takes literal hours to run a YouTube video on. I suspect that it's due to a bottleneck with his internet connection. Here's the conversation thus far: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033 (Ed): Thank you kindly for your prompt reply...appreciate it very much. I came across this site by accident in searching for something else and now I'm 'hooked' on it. :) So far I've read over 400 archived posts (whew)...as well as looking at the videos. The videos are somewhat of a problem because this new laptop only has 512 mg memory...LOOOOOng time to load. For example...to watch a SLOW 5-minute You Tube video takes 5-1/2 HOURS to load...keeps showing a couple words at a time...need to get two new memory chips to upgrade to 2gb. Thanks again...Take care. ---------------------------------------------------------------- eddems: I think you're basic download speed is killing ya, not the laptop. check you're speed at Internetfrog.com, if you see the link near the bottom for the old test, run it, I like it's graph of upload and download speed much better. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much. I'll check it out. I ordered a 1gb SDRAM Memory chip which just arrived yesterday. Hope this speeds things up a bit. ---------------------------------------------------------------- harley_rly: i hear u man, my computer is hopped up, but i live out in the sticks and have dialup...i only get 24kbps at most :( ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Maybe there's hope for 'us' yet. :-) I phoned Tiger Direct to see cost of an upgrading memory chip to go from 512mg to 1-1/2gb. The guy I talked to suggested I get "PC TUNEUP 2.0" which bypasses the Windows Operating System (I'm using Windows XP Pro) and speeds up the system. I gave it a try and ordered the CD (cost $39.98 - $44.77 postpaid). It hasn't arrived yet but will let you know if it helps as he claims it will. He said that if I just ordered a 1gb memory chip my system wouldn't notice much improvement as it is, but this CD should do the trick. THEN...when I DO order the Memory chip(s) to get total of 2gb my system should zip through like a rocket with the CD just ordered. I'll let you know when I get the CD and about the results. Just hope I haven't thrown forty-five bucks to the wind. Thanks for the contact...appreciate hearing from you. TAKE CARE. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: PC Tune-Up "bypasses the Windows Operating System?" This guy fed you a load of crap. (I work on computers for a living.) PC Tune-Up does nothing more than clean up registries, defragment harddrives (if your OS even needs it, some don't) and keeps drivers up to date (which you could do manually.) That guy's an idiot, or just a liar. Could be both. Unless you were buying PC Tuneup 2.0 from Tiger Direct, in which case we can add "sleazy salesman" to that. What are the specs of the laptop? Go to Start/Run and type in DXDIAG. This will give you a quick snapshot of the specs. Specifically, I'm curious as to the processor speed/type. For a 5 1/2 hour "load" you're more likely looking at network slowdown issues (although 512 megs for XP is WAYYYY too little. I HATE when they put PCs together like that). The RAM upgrade will show significant speed increases, but no improvement with YouTube videos or other downloads. I'm glad to see you are returning the CD. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much for your input...appreciate it very much. I checked the DXDIAG as you recommended. Here's the info on it: IBM ThinPad Laptop PC. Model # 23738TU. Intel Premium M 1.70GHZ. 512mb SDRAM Memory chip.Page File- 351mb used,513 mb available. Direct Version-Directx 9.00 (4.09.0000.0904). 512 mb SDRAM-Actual 212 Ram. AVAST Anti-Virus. MS Windows XP-PRO.. Dialup Speed-40kbps. PC2700 SDRAM 512mb Memory Chip installed. I ordered 1bb memory chip which arrived yesterday. Now I have to figure out HOW to remove the bottom of this laptop to install it...lotta small screws on it. :-) Oh, total memory shows 32mb. I don't know if this means much to you. I note your comment that the added RAM memory WONT (?) speed up loading YouTube videos? Is that correct? If so, why not? Thanks again. Take care. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: :) At the risk of boring too many people, here's how memory in a PC works: You have two kinds of memory: RAM, and Hard Drive (technically there's three, as there's also onboard video RAM on video cards, but this is primarily used for 3D video game textures, so can be mostly ignored.) Your harddrive's read/write speed is determined by the type of harddrive it is (most are SATA now) and the rotation speed (most are 7200 RPM, though the specs for your system say yours is only 5400 RPM, but there are 10, 15, and even 20K rpm models out there that are exponentially more expensive.) No matter what, harddrive memory will always be degrees slower than RAM. RAM on the other hand is a small chunk of memory that is "temporary" memory, but very fast. Its speed is determined by the type of RAM (DDR2 being the current common one for notebooks, though DDR3 is available with some motherboards (you can ignore this, though, as you can only handle 2 gigs max of DDR with your system). The motherboard will determine the limits for the RAM that can be installed.) When running *ANYTHING* on your computer, and I mean ANYTHING, it must first be loaded into RAM to be accessed by the CPU. The computer doesn't directly access the harddrive. So this means when your operating system is loaded (Windows XP) the entirety of all running processes for the OS have to be loaded into RAM. Now, Microsoft claims that Windows XP only requires a minimum of 64 megs of RAM, but recommends 128 megs. I challenge you to find me a Windows XP system that only uses 128 megs out of the box. It's not atypical for an XP system to chew through all 512 megs of your RAM, leaving no RAM available for other applications. (Interestingly, the default setup for your laptop is only 256 megs of RAM, yet yours is reporting 512.) What happens when there's no RAM left? The system has to then start trading things into what is called "Virtual Memory." VM is nothing more than a file on the harddrive that will temporarily hold information that SHOULD be in RAM, so the RAM can load more info. For instance, say you have a process that's using RAM, but you want to watch your YouTube video. As the video is ready to play, the system will take the other process's data that's in RAM, write it to the harddrive, load your video into RAM in its place, play a portion of it, write the video to the harddrive, load the data for the process to RAM, let it run for a split second (so it doesn't lock up), write it back to the harddrive, load your video into RAM and play a short clip, etc. etc. etc. The result of low RAM on your system is that applications will open slowly (seconds or minutes, instead of instantly or a few seconds) and they will seem slow to respond, will stutter, etc. With enough RAM, your system can freely open as much as it needs into RAM, and ignore the virtual memory and all the slowdowns that it causes. Now, all of this being said, NO lack of RAM will cause a streaming video to take 5 1/2 hours to play. This is 100% going to be related to your downspeed. (Go to www.speedtest.net and post your results.) RAM slowdowns tend to be most noticeable when shutting down, or starting up your computer, apps will open a little more slowly, they will be slower to respond to button clicks, and video will be very choppy. Anything that is causing a YouTube video to take HOURS will be due to the system simply waiting to get the video in the first place. RAM wouldn't slow down the receiving of the video, but it would cause the video to play weird once it's downloaded. So, all this being said, here's the summary: Your system has a 1.7 Ghz processor, and your RAM is most likely 333 Mhz DDR. If you bump your memory up to a gig, you should see a pretty significant improvement in that your computer will, overall, just "feel" faster. It'll be more responsive, and working with large documents will be many, many times faster. This won't, however, affect your YouTube experience (unless you were getting jittery video often, not the same as "buffering" video.) If you see "buffering" for a long time, your internet connection is your bottleneck. A test on www.SpeedTest.net will likely confirm this. However, if you get decent numbers on SpeedTest, then we could have something more sinister going on, though I suspect you'll find your numbers well below the 1 mbps rate. This brings us to actually changing the RAM. I've been out of the PC hardware realm (professional programmer now) for a few years, and was unable to find a manual for your particular model. However, if memory serves, this image should be a fairly accurate representation of the underside of your system: http://www.javin-inc.com/temp/thinkpad.JPG Don't quote me, but I BELIEVE the red circle will indicate the only screw you will need to remove to access the RAM. There should also be a small clip holding the RAM in place that you'll want to pinch to get the RAM out, and make sure that the new RAM snaps into place. (Sometimes you'll have additional empty RAM beds, and you can just put your RAM in there and end up with 1.5 gigs, but I suspect you'll have two 256 gig chips in there.) ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Phew. Thanks again for your most indepth educational lesson. I appreciate all your help more than you realize. I attempted to answer this last night, typing in more than twice the amount of text as your to me, then suddenly realized there was a glitch and I was on another page...lost it all into the ionisphere. :-( Rather than try to retype all I wrote, I shut 'r down and went to sleep. Now I'm trying to recall all I wrote last night but failed to get mailed. I'm not a traditional typist, rather a one-finger bloke so you can understand the frustration there. I do, however, type at a reasonably good speed. With that said, let's continue. I went to search for Configuration of this IBM Laptop ThinkPad 23738TU and am copy and pasting it here. It's relevant to what I have to say...here it is: ********************************************************************************** Overview Specs Features Includes Warranty Supplies IBM ThinkPad T42 2373 Specifications Part # 23738TU Key Specifications IBM ThinkPAD T42 2373 Manufacturer IBM Manufacturer Part # 23738TU Processor Type Intel Pentium M 735 1.7 GHz Data Bus Speed 400 MHz Cache Memory Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB RAM Installed Size 256 MB Technology DDR SDRAM Memory Speed 333 MHz System Type Notebook Storage Hard Drive 40 GB, 5400 rpm Storage Controller Type IDE Optical Storage Type DVD ROM Read Speed 24x (CD) / 8x (DVD) Display Type 14.1" TFT active matrix Graphics Processor / Vendor ATI MOBILITY RADEON 7500 Video Memory 32 MB Max. Resolution 1024 x 768 Audio Output Type Sound card Audio Codec AD1981B Compliant Standards DirectSound, AC '97, SoundMAX Telecom Modem Fax / modem Max. Transfer Rate 56 Kbps Protocols & Specifications ITU V.90 Networking Networking Network adapter Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet Expansion Expansion Slots Total 1 x front accessible Expansion Slots Total 2 ( 1 ) x memory 1 ( 1 ) x CardBus - type II Interfaces 1 x docking / port replicator, 240 pin docking 2 x Hi Speed USB, 4 pin USB Type A 1 x parallel, IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP), 25 pin D Sub (DB25) 1 x display / video, VGA, 15 pin HD D Sub (HD 15) 1 x infrared, IrDA 1 x modem, phone line, RJ11 1 x network, Ethernet 10BaseT/100BaseTX, RJ45 1 x display / video, S video output, 4 pin mini DIN 1 x microphone, input, mini phone mono 3.5 mm 1 x headphones, output, mini phone stereo 3.5 mm Miscellaneous Features Locking device keyhole (cable lock), administrator password, hard drive password, power-on password, asset ID, IBM Embedded Security Subsystem 2.0 Compliant Standards ACPI 2.0, ACPI 1.0b, FCC Class B certified, CE, MPR II, UL, BSMI, cUL, NOM, VCCI-II Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Software Included Adobe Acrobat Reader, PC Doctor, IBM Rapid Restore Ultra, IBM Update Connector, InterVideo WinDVD, IBM Access Connections, IBM Access Support, Access IBM,(OEM) Battery Technology lithium ion Capacity 4400 mAh Average Run Time 5 hour(s) Installed Qty 1 Ambient Temperature Min Operating Temperature 50 °F Max Operating Temperature 90 °F Humidity Range Operating 8 - 80% Dimensions (W x D x H) Unit 12.2 in x 10 in x 1.1 in Weight Unit 4.9 lbs Warranty 3 Years Limited Warranty on parts and labor. IBM 23738TU Summary ********************************************************************************* NOTE...I DON'T BELIEVE THIS...I JUST TYPED FORTY MINUTES REPLY HERE and it instantly scrolled up like speed of lightning and disappeared like last night. I'll ATTEMP to try again later. So please don't reply yet as you need to read my discoveries in changing the RAM chip. Meanwhile, thanks again...take care. ~ ED ******************************************************************************* TRY #3...I'm Back :-) Your diagram showing where the RAM chip is located was right on. Thanks. Here's my DISCOVERY :-( The RAM chip installed was NOT a 512mg...but only a 256mg chip. The ads ans specs say it's a 512mg...NOT SO. I was lied to by either the manufacturer or refurbishing company who removed the original 512 chip and reinstalled a 256 chip. I was lied to by the Tiger Direct guy on the phone. There are NOT two chip slots...only one. So I now have a useless removed 256mb RAM chip. Replaced with the 1gb RAM chip I just installed. So instead of having 1-1/2 gb RAM, I only have 1gb. Here's the crux. To. go to 2gb RAM I'd need to buy a full 2gb RAM CHIP and discard the 1gb for which I just paid $39.99 ($45.00 with s/h). This means another output of almost a hundred dollars plus the $45.00 just wasted because they wont accept return once the sealed chip plastic was opened...even though I had no idea there was only ONE SLOT in this PC instead of TWO like the Tiger Guy said. Now...crux #2...this new 1gb RAM does nothing more to increase speed. I just watched a 2.01 MINUTE YouTube video which took a HALF HOUR to load, so I threw the money away for nothing, eh? There is no noticeable change except the 'speed' shows it now as 41.2 kbps instead of 40 kbps. Okay...now HOW do I get to speed this thing up to normal viewing in real time? I also saw an ad for 4bg RAM Gateway laptop with 120gb hard drive for $404.99 which is all suped-up with everything. I had to upgrade a LOT since I got this only four months ago...taking over a hundred hours to load it, like Internet Explorer 5 to 6 and then to 8 and now to 9. I'm using AVAST Anti-Virus, after trying for 23 hours to get ADVAR, then find out it didn't load because of problem on the servor's end. Added Firefox and upgraded twice. Loaded MS Protection but it created more problems so I deleted it...now with AVAST which I like. Soooo...I've literally spent over 200 hours to get this thng where it's at now, plus the wasted money for the upgraded RAM chip.and I still don't have increased speed. HOW do I get it? IF the processor has to be changed does this mean I have to gut the thing and install a new motherboard? If so, what kind of money cost are we talking here? I bought this four months ago as a refurbished unit only because I was able to get it on payments of only $25.00 a month. If I had to wait to get $400.00 cash I'd never have it. :-) Okay...that's it for the moment. Thanks much again for your help offering and detailed instructions...appreciate it more than you realize. Best Wishes And God's Blessings To You And Yours In Everything Always. Most Respectfully... ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: Well, let's start with the RAM. If you're running windows XP, you can assume all the extra processes (virus scanners, and whatnot) will be eating up about 512 megs of the RAM. First thing to do is check DXDIAG again (start/run) and verify that it's now reporting the correct amount of RAM. (Don't be surprised if it's like 9 hundred something megs or slightly more. It won't report 1024 or 1 gig.) This being said, that will leave you with the other 512 for your applications. This box won't be running the latest and greatest 3D games, but I suspect it was never intended to. If the heaviest hitter you'll have running is along the lines of photoshop, the 1 gig of RAM you have now should be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't worry about getting 2 gigs. Not for this rig, anyway. Also, Avast is a great (and free) virus protection, every bit as good as Symantec's Norton, so good choice there. If your youtube videos are choking out, we need to start by verifying that it's an actual speed throttling problem. Go to www.SpeedTest.net and run the speed test. Come back with the results.
Topic by Javin007 | last reply