Found out some tricks with the iPod?
Topic by Arbitror | last reply
I'm counting down the days until summer for one thing; wakeboarding.Its something I think I'd be good at, I don't like sports, but i'm sort of athletic. Last year i was just getting the hang of it by the end of the season. This year i'm stronger and bigger, and i'm optimistic that i'll be able to get a lot better this year. Plus my friends are going to learn with me on our boat.I'm positive that i can get the basic two wake jump down, riding switch, doing surface 180's and maybe a 360. Maybe some simple board grabs? No idea.But I wanted something I could practice on and perfect that's more than just that, some kind of aerial trick.Are there any wakeboarders out there that are willing to tell me what to start off learning once i have the basics down?Thanks, I cant say how excited i am for school to end...29 more days....hopefully by the end of summer i'll be acceptably good.as a side note, does anyone know the legal age in FL to drive a ski boat alone? I took my boaters safety test and i already have my learner's permit for driving a car.i know you have to be 14 with a boaters license to drive a PWC, but what about boats?I also know for people under 21 you have to have a boaters license and (i think) a picture ID. But i'm not sure, does anyone know for sure?Thanks
Topic by John Smith | last reply
Hi Guys ^.^ Just wondering what is your best trick? hardest trick? and how you do it? Everyone has different techniques so your way could help others do the trick... :) My best / favourite / hardest trick is a triple K-flip into dark slide shuv-it into 5-0 grind with an impossible out. The K-flip I do like a normal kick flip but pop higher / kick harder, also one has to catch it before it makes the 4th revolution. The shuv-it is tricky as it goes 270degrees and 1/2 a flip, fingers go in the center and just behind and under 1 back wheel. Catch it and land manual on the rail then set up for a back foot impossible. Fingers like a K-flip but the back finger more to the toe side so as to hook/pull the board round. Pop hard and swing the back finger upwards while at the same time moving the front finger out the way, as the board comes back round catch with the front finger and land it. Hope it helps anyone stuck with those tricks. Now I want to hear from you! =D Mountain Island xx
Topic by mountain island
Hi. I'm a recently retired Magician/Ventriloquist, now focussing on assisting young magicians and beginners on the road to greatness. In my Instructables, I'll be presenting videos on how a trick looks, as well as how the trick works. We'll be concentrating on easy to do magic with simple items, so there'll be no need to purchase expensive magical gear. I welcome your questions, thoughts and suggestions. The aim is to provide as much advice and information as you need. Whether you're beginner or advanced, please feel comfortable to contact me with your problem, good news or just for a chat. I also welcome parents of interested youngsters to contact me for any advice or information that may be required. My sole ambition is to provide help where needed, to progress magicians along their chosen path. Further detail on who I am and what I do can be found at: http://bobedazzler.wixsite.com/learnmagicsecrets
Topic by kidsmagic | last reply
This fad of "planking" reminds me of a parlor trick I think I read about once. Perhaps from the 1800s. A woman lies with heels on one chair, head on another. Supposedly she has been hypnotized to be very strong. Then a heavy guy sits on her stomach. Is there a name for that? Or a place to find image, or reference?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
It would be good to have a TIPS/TRICKS category. Sometimes i have some good info somebody else might be able to use. Not enough for a full Instructable. Its a tip/trick that doesn't take a lot of explanation. Example ible. I was forced to add more pictures just to get the ible to publish. I suppose those additional pictures help, but not really needed for this particular tip to be valid. So i suggest a TIP/TRICK section or something along those lines
Topic by WWC | last reply
I have a trampoline, and I can do a pretty good amount of tricks. And recently I was looking for a new trick to learn. I found one that I thought was cool, but I don't know the name. What it is, is a 180 aerial (no handed cartwheel). Most of the time when someone is performing it, they are transferring from trampoline to trampoline at an indoor trampoline arena. If you know what trick I am talking about please tell me.
Topic by SBDFFLS | last reply
I find myself with the task of lighting a camp fire, either dramatically, magically or mysteriously. I know a couple of methods, but the campfire audience have seen them before. Anybody got any novel ideas for lighting a campfire at the sneaky pull of a cord, or throw of a hidden switch? (Yes, I know about wire wool and batteries...)
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hi, I just got my Dremel yesterday (multipro 285 for Â£20) it ROCKS but I thought it would be good to have a forum topic for people to post tips/tricks about using their Dremel that they have pivked up/ made up.Mine is this (Its in pdf format) but basically it is a way to use you dremel to quickly "Desolder" pcbs (~5 minutes or less per board!). Wht you do is put on a coarse (~60 grit) sanding drum and go over the back of the pcb. It is very dusty but afterwards the components just need a small pul with some pliars and your done.
Topic by josh92176 | last reply
Wanna know how to disappear and become invisible in an online game such as KILLZONE,SOCOM,....... Racing games.......(the list goes on and on.....) You will need: Ethernet Cable Small Switch Gaming system (online compatible( ps2,ps3,wii,xbox,xbox 360,) ( must be connected with a wire WIFI wont work Online Game All you have to do is cut the orange wire on the inside of the cable and put a switch there. then put the switch in the of position when you want to disappear. NOTICE: This may not work with all games. this only lasts about 7-10 seconds and then you are disconnected from the network. It is just like unplugging it but it is easier. ????: Why is there 8 wires in cat six (maybe its cat five) cable and olny four of them are used ? (waste of coper and bpa releasing plastic) Would have made an instructable but its not worth it. Yes cheating is weak I just like the disappearing part You don't disappear but nobody can see you
Topic by littlechef37
I like playing with fire its awesome and handy tricks like bar tricks but i want to know more
Question by noeyebrows1997 | last reply
I am a big magician and need new idea's for magic tricks. some tricks I have already done are as following... pull thread out the eye card tricks coin vanishes Idea's wanted are for rubber bands paper and other everyday objects all answers are apriciated
Question by voemaster | last reply
I wana know how can i teach my dog how to fetch because most of the time she always running like dog gone mad and i never got a chance to play with her beause after all that runing around she tires out and i want my dad that i actully thought her a trick so yeah.
Question by neivadan | last reply
I made an instructable for pens and it will not show the people. And yes i puplished it.
Question by jake9999 | last reply
I've just purchased a Indiana Jones Vintage (beat up looking) Felt Fedora, AND ITS FREAKIN AWESOME!!! Anyone know how to do some cool hat tricks? ie, rolling it about, tossing in air to put it on etc... Also, I know here is one (could do with some improvement), but I feel a sudden urge to know how to cheat at cards. Any help?
Topic by KentsOkay | last reply
Yoyo tricks have gotten a lot crazier in the past few years. People are playing with metal yoyos that can sleep for over a minute and can pull off a couple dozen tricks in that time. Some people even go off-string with the yoyo spinning all on its own.A company called Anti-Yo is in the thick of this scene and releases only a couple yoyos a year, but of high quality. The owners, Kiya and Sonny, started out as regular fans of the scene and decided to simply make their own and they've done a great job of it. They're living proof that you can make your hobby into something much more and start to have an effect on people all around the world.The video below shows their new yoyo, the BSP, being played with by one of their team players. Check it out.
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Would folks who have played with Oogoo please try out the formulation at the link below: Noogoo and let me know if a) it works for you too; b) whether or not there are any differences/advantages over the initial Oogoo formula; and 3) you can see any applications for it different from standard Oogoo? It's not a published Instructable yet, I want to make sure there's something here worth using before I make a permanent post of it. Thanks, G
Topic by gtoal | last reply
I want to schow him up. he's going to college to be a network manager and i can't stand it when he tells me things he thinks everybody knows. i just want one little program or button i can push that will impress even him. any ideas? like maybe shut down his screen or make his computer beep or somehting. lol i know this sounds sunb but i have nothing else to do with my time.
Question by amandalud10 | last reply
I know the basic rules, and we'll play by hitting the ball off a tee (like in golf just much higher). It's for a sportsday of the whole college. Any class attends in two disciplines in a tournament against all ther classes and the teachers team. This year it's football and baseball. (last year was basketball and swimming, extremely funny). Now i'm pretty bad at the moment and i'm in my final year, so i don't want to be the jackass who screws up for the seniors :P I'm a pretty good runner on short distances and the field won't be huge (good advantage), but i'll need to hit the ball far enough to run, that is my major problem. (already read a tutorial from this side, but it wasn't that helpful), so i'm very glad for any tricks, ideas, instructions or whatever. thanks in advantage, oliver from switzerland (yes, the guys with the evil tax-stealing banks XD)
Question | last reply
The first 10 people who enter the Electronics Tips & Tricks Contest this week (6/25/12) and have their project featured will get a free 3D print. All prints are going to be made on our Objet printers and must fit within the bounds of 3" x 3" x 3". If you don't have files that you want printed, you can receive a 3D-printed Instructables Robot figurine instead. Some featuring guidelines for Photo Instructables are as follows: Has an original, unique and/or compelling idea Title fits and explains the project All photos are original Contains at least 3 photos, and at least 1 image of the final project All photos are in focus with correct lighting At least 2 paragraphs describing project inspiration, process, outcome, challenges, etc Reference links and files if required
Topic by randofo | last reply
I can do a hand 180 and 90 and a snow board slide,But these tricks are kind of boring now.SO I NEED NEW TRICKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Question | last reply
Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)
Topic by Downunder35m
I'm having trouble tring to pop shovit on a skateboard. I can spin the board but I don't even go the direction of the board and my board flys out from under me and goes a foot or two away. How can I jump towards it while spinning?
Question by awesume | last reply
This is s a general forum for people to post questions and tips they have found over the time they've spent welding My question/tip is this - I recently had to weld two pieces of oddly shaped steel together. Placement and alignment was important for me but the shapes of the steel pieces made clamping them together a bit of a mission. My solution was to position and hold the pieces of steel using prestik (probably the south african equivalent of U.S. bluetack - maybe chewing gum could work) and then the steel pieces didn't move while I tacked them in place. My question is obviously whether this is a questionable practice because of fumes (I didn't notice any) or weakening of the weld from the prestik inclusion (it seems to be holding quite nicely though and the piece is now the switch activator for a press strip feeder. If you can't think of any problems then its a tip
Topic by djmachet | last reply
At least around here you will be stung painfully in your hip pocket if you want some half decent beef jerky.For some a snack, for others a survivial pack on long hikes, or just fun to eat....I like to do things differently from time to time and where possible save a buck or two.So a few years back I decided to invest in a food dehydrator that doubled up for other projects.There is a lot of traditional ways of making jerky, from selecting the right meat, over the right cutting down to marinating or seasoning the meat.But I did not find too many people using a dehydrator for the final step.A quick run down on my preparations:Meat cut into thin slices, then strips.Marinating for a day or two then a gentle air dry.Optional because I might be the only one who likes it: Covering with salt for a few hours to get a really salty taste.One problem when using a dehydrator with meat is that things can get messy.You only want to air dry on a wire rack or similar until the meat is semi dry on the surface but not until it already starts drying out.I do it inside and only for about 3 hours or so.Doing it for too long can mean much longer drying times in the dehydrator as a crust has formed on the surface already.To prevent excessive mess I cover my trys with non stick baking paper.This means only the top side will be dried until the meat starts to wrinkle up a bit.I dry at around 40°C and do a quick check on the meat every 30 minutes - each time a different tray.Once the top side feels dry to the touch I turn the meat over.If the paper got quite soggy I give it a quick wipe with a paper towel, otherwise I leave it all on there and hope some of it will stick to the meat when turning it over.Depending on the thickness of the meat the entire process can take 8 to 10 hours, thin slices dry in around 5-6 hours.What is the right moisture content for the finnished jerky?That is a question only you can answer!Some people prefer a mild jerky that is firm but easy to chew.Others, like myself, prefer the jerky bone dry and able to be kept fresh in an airtight container for years to come.I found the best way still is to properly age the finnished product before use.By aging I mean putting into a sealed container to even out the moisture level.Unless you rotate in very fancy ways a multi try dehydrator will always produce some pieces in corner areas that are less dry.The key is to have a large enough container so you can shake it all through once or twice a day and giving it a replacement of the air inside.Really hard and dry pieces will soften a bit while those really soft pieces will give their moisture away.Like this the meat is good for about 2 weeks from the day you dried it.Leaving it open in a well ventilated area with very low moisture level will fully dry the meat while it ages and prolong the best before date.Keep in mind that you don't want soggy meat to start with here, the overall moisture level should be well below 10% in the meat when done.If you fully dry it, especially with a bit of salt in it then the meat last for like forever.A nice way to figure out if the meat is fully dry is a digital scale.Take a sample pieve and check the weight, write it down.Place it in the dehydrator for another 30 minutes and check again.Less weight than before means moisture was lost and the meat you sampled was not fully dry yet.Same weight as before means it is dry.As a final step some people might want to put the meat outside on a sunny and dry day.If you do then please not into the direct sun and with a mesh cover to keep insects, dust and other things away from the meat.Cheating on the softness...Some of my friends like their jerky with a consistency more like chewing gum.Or like a slice of good, smoked ham if you don't like chewing gum.The meat selection and cutting direction are vital here.Think of it like bying a steak, the cheap, crappy one means it might be tough one to chew, the quality cut from the butcher will almost be certain to be a great experience.Sizzle or minute steaks are a quicky way to save some time making jerky but not so good for a nice and soft jerky.Of course, if you are on a budget you can cheat with manual labour and tenderise the meat the old fashion way before seasoning or marinating it.The marinade is another way you can cheat.Meat soaks up the marinade to some extend, especially if you tenderised the meat and got rid of the excess fluid that come out of it.Oil should be avoided for obvious reasons but you might have noticed that some commercial jerky always feels greasy.Plant or vegetable fats that melt below about 45°C can be used in a warm marinade to add some softness and in some case a better taste as the fat binds better to spices and seasoning.The downside is that you also need a drying temperature below the melting point of the fat and that it seals in a lot of moisture, which means much longer drying times.But you get a nice and soft jerky in return.The right cut...When you cut your own meat it helps to know what to look for.You want the meat fibres going in the right direction in your jerky slices!If you take a long piece of sirlion as an example than the fibres will run lenghtwise through it.Since you want to be able to rip or chew a piece off the jerky you want these fibres going sideways through your slice, not lenghtwise.In the sirlion example it means you cut thin slices of the "sausage" and from those you cut the strips.The wrong cut...If your fibres run lenghtwise through your jerky strips it will be very hard to get through them.Not only when you want to rip a bit off but also when you chew on it, it can be a very long chew...Some people though prefer it in short strips that are a bit thicker than usual.Like with tobacco in the old days they chew on it until the taste and flavour is out and discard of the rest.
Topic by Downunder35m
I've been trying to do buddha's revenge yoyo trick.. but i have some hard part,like moonsault for the beginning..
Well after a request for an 'ible on basic bike tricks as a follow up to this cycling 'ible I'm wondering what tricks people would like to know about so far the list is:Pulling a wheelieStoppies/endos (stopping or moving with the back wheel in the air)BunnyhoppingSliding in a reasonable manner (as in tailslides)I'd like any other suggestions, the 'ible will include all requested tricks that I can do, heck got any for me to learn? Just throw them at me. If I can I'll add stalls and stuff to this but considering where I live finding a good place to do so is hard (it's still a building site for the most part...)EDIT: The instructable is now up
Topic by killerjackalope | last reply
I am not a complete beginner ive been longoarding for a couple of months now so i know the basics.heres the stock photo:
Question by Zaphod Beeblebrox | last reply