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TAR [Unfinished]

Yoow, this is my assault rifle.. I never finished it coz I wanted to built some other guns:( But anyway, here are sum pics so you can make it and complete it.. You don't have to ask it Actually I've no idea why I'm posting this.. But I haven't posted anything for a long time so.. yeah.. Just look at the pictures:)

Topic by mahmel    |  last reply


New G36K (unfinished)

Hey guys. Well, dr. richtofen asked me to give him some pics of my new and improved G36K, and so I decided to post it forum topic. I would like you guys to help me out with what I have or may miss, and and just give me some advice in general. What type of barrel should I use...things like that. Pleas comment and subscribe!

Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch    |  last reply


Unfinished Ball Machine

Hi guys umm well the title pretty much says it. For sometime now, many of you have known that I have been working on a new ball machine. However, one thing you should know about the ball machine is that I am quitting on it. :-( WHY? 1) Not enough space :-( - see pics 2) Not enough time - I know that you have to make time if you want to K'nex, but over the past month, I have not really had the chance to build at all due to studies and other stuff :-P. Its quite unpredictable when I was going to get it finished by These are the main reasons why I am quitting as well as I am not sure if I have enough pieces :-( BUT... After tearing down this ball machine, I will begin a new one hopefully. This one will not be high but it will be more wider, compact and dense around the bottom. I am happy to inform you that this will feature a white floor as well as 2 networks as far as I have planned :-). Anywho, thanks for reading this post and feel free to comment Also, for any of you wondering, the last picture is a new ball machine lift which I hope to post in a week or two. Till next time Hunter999

Topic by hunter999    |  last reply


How do you go back to your unfinished instructable? Answered

I was nearly finished so i saved it and logged out. Now when i log in i cant find any evidence that I even started. Please give me any reasons why this might have happened. Thanks in advance.

Question by tatianacaress    |  last reply


How do I get back my saved but un finished instructable?

I had 2 steps done to my first instructable. I saved it a few times. But How do I get it back so I can keep working on it.

Topic by artmule    |  last reply


The Official Failed and Unfinished Projects Thread

This is a thread for everyone to post pictures of their failed and/or unfinished projects. That way when people need ideas for something to build they can come to this thread and find someone's project and build it and improve on it and maybe make it work. There is one rule in this thread: IF YOU USE SOMEONE ELSE'S IDEA/MECH/PROJECT, YOU MUST GIVE THEM CREDIT. I will start the thread off with some pictures of my uncompleted projects. Here is the link to the album on photobucket because I find it easier to upload them there: http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg159/jollex/Uncompleted%20Projects/ Guest password is knexinnovation

Topic by jollex    |  last reply


Unfinished Ceramic Tile/Pizza Stone

I've heard that you can use an unfinished ceramic tile as a pizza stone. I have not been able to find any unfinished ceramic tile anywhere. I figured a bunch of DIY folks like the ones here might know where I can get one. Does anyone know where I can get a 16"x16" unfinished ceramic tile? Thanks Rick

Topic by mrmath    |  last reply


Where on the You page can you see your saved but unfinished instructables? Please help me. Answered

I wrote this awesome instructable and saved it but I can't find it now. If you help me you can see it too!

Question by sky0    |  last reply


unfinished,5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM

5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images  for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690       assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with                         4 potentiometers       Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it.                     move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed.           The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of  square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium  circular fiber  10.  L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot.        Thanks you:

Topic by aarif1234  


Posting an instructables on an unbuilt design?

Can I post an Instructables on an idea that I have designed in detail but don't have the funds to build?

Topic by Cabla    |  last reply


"Import from Word"

I've been trying to post my most recent instructable and all has gone smoothly except for the fact that the "paste from word" option does not work. I am using word 2010 on a windows 7 computer with chrome, firefox, and IE 9. All three browsers will only import the plain text format of word documents that I type up rather than the fully formatted versions. It's not that I cant format everything I need via the main text input screen, its just that frankly the scrony forum post-type entry field sucks for writing well organized instructables. Please fix this! ~Love poent

Topic by Poent    |  last reply


How do you delete unfinished or draft Instructables?

TSIA. I have some old drafts that are no longer relevant, so I'd like to delete them. Mr. A

Topic by Mr. Apol    |  last reply


New Horizontal Mag Gun + Unfinished repeating sling

Here's a video of my new gun I'm working on, and some pictures of a new repeating sling that I scrapped.

Topic by jollex    |  last reply



what to read? Answered

I have read LOTR, The Hobbit, the Silmarillion, The children of Hurin, Unfinished tales, and Harry Potter. Any suggestions?  Thank you 

Question by AirnGreenwood    |  last reply


Does running computers in cold weather damage anything?

I hav a bunch of computers but not much space, so I run some of them in an unfinished part of my house. Because this part is unfinished it gets cold, very cold sometimes down to 10-15 degrees farenheit. I just wondered if there was any way this could damage any of my computer components. I want to make sure it is OK to do this. Thanks.

Question by nurdee1    |  last reply


Knex WA2000!

My unfinished Knex WA2000. It does work and shoots 25FT. It is not semi auto. It holds five rounds. I just didn't want to finish it... Got lazy, as you can totally tell in my typing.

Topic by DELETED_Blue Mullet 2    |  last reply


How do I fix a split in the seat of a kitchen chair?

I have an unfinished chair that I was assembling and the seat split when I was putting on the back.  Any idea what I can do to fix it?

Question by Gambrinus    |  last reply


How do I get rid of instructables that I am working on? Answered

Sometimes after I publish an instructable it still stays in my unfinished instructable section. i was wondering how you get rid of this. Thanks

Question by nurdee1    |  last reply


I just had new wood frame windows installed and they are unfinished. How/with what would you recomment that I do this?

The manufacturer says you can optionally stain or paint the wood and then seal with a polyuerethane (sp?). I was thinking about just sealing the wood because the oak color works but is there a reason not to just seal them? How many coats of everything would be needed? BTW, I live in Minneapolis with weather/humidity is a factor. Also, it is just the inside that needs finishing. Thanks. Jay

Question    |  last reply


New Ball Machine Preview - Ideas Appreciated

This is my new UNFINISHED knex ball machine. I haven't put much up recently, but I've been working on this. I got more knex which is why this is larger than my earlier stuff (Thanks to silentassassin21 for selling me his), and because of this I want to make a large rifle after this so keep that in mind. This is a preview of an unfinished machine so ideas for the last 3 or 4 paths are welcomed. You may note it uses 2 types of balls. If you use my idea for the separator of sizes of knex balls I'd like credit. (If this has been done before I would be surprised because I've never seen one like this before) Thanks for viewing!

Topic by shadowninja31    |  last reply


How do I start a second unpublished instructable? Answered

I've been working on one unfinished instructable, but would like to start on another one.  I'm not seeing how / where to get a new blank format.  Do I need to click on submit instructable? 

Question by mole1    |  last reply


Can the PDF be Reset?

I just published my first Instructable. Actually I published it a couple weeks ago unfinished, and updated it as I went along. But I just got around to Downloading the PDF. And it is as the 'ible was when I first published it. Is there any way of updating it without unpublishing it, so I can stop looking like a newb?

Topic by ArtisanEclectic    |  last reply


Sneak Peak

I haven't posted anything original in forever (well 5 months to be exact).  I started this project on Friday and I'm almost done with it.  Tests on this gun when it was unfinished have yielded very good results.  I can't wait until this is 100% complete and ready to show off fully. Try and figure out what it is in the meantime.

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


How can I improve this?

Hello I'm new to this site but I liked this stuff so much I already created 4 hand crafts and I'm pleased with all of them except one. I tried to make a personalized decoration with a denim theme, but it looks unfinished What else can I add to it to make it stand out and to make it look complete Here is what I have so far:

Topic by argentin    |  last reply


K'nex Ball Machine Contest!!!! (CLOSED)

Hayz!!!!! I am having another contest!!! And this time it is for ball machine's!!!!!! Anyone can enter. Just leave a comment with a link or pictures!!! The requirements are simple, have a ball machine that you would like to enter!!!! UPDATE: User frenzy will be willing to give out patches for the contest! 1st place: A 5 on everything, a patch, a sub (if I Haven't already), comments on there ibles, and the satisfactory of winning. 2nd place: A sub, a patch and comments. 3rd place : A patch and comments. Contest ends the 31st. Entries needed by the 29th. Happy building!!!!! Entries: 1. KGB....Ballatron 2. knexfreak95.......(UNFINISHED) Fire Hazard 3. megametal8.......Project Dynamite EDIT: CLOSED!! First place: KGB: Solid, 2paths, finished, You made so much out of so little. Nice Job! Second: knexfreak95: You have second because It was unfinished. You would of had first if it was. Excellent work! Third: megametal8: Third. The ball machine was kinda small and looked unstable, but you aleast got a prize!

Topic by Randomguy65    |  last reply


Little girl's bedroom with Hacked-Ikea bed

My two year old outgrew her "Princess Toddler bed" and it was time to move her to a regular bed. She has gone from Cradle, to interim playpen, to crib, to fire truck toddler bed (because it was the one with the highest sides we could find when she started jumping out of her crib at 10 months), then to princess bed.. Even though the rest of our house is decorated using modern decor, I really wanted to keep the "French" theme I did when I originally setup her nursery... Because this was her 6th bed, the thought of spending $899 and up for a bed in this category (and not even made out of wood) I got discouraged and decided to buy an inexpensive IKEA bed. When I arrived at IKEA and started looking through the options, again I decided to hold off and not buy anything. As I was leaving the store, I found various items on sale. One of the items was an unfinished bed, for $30!!!! The bed was low to the ground like we needed it. The unfinished wood was not something I wanted, but for $30 I could live with it. At home depot, I purchased decorative wood applique's for the headboard and the foot board ($12 for both). On my way to the cash register I discovered that home depot sells pre-fab unfinished table legs. These legs would make perfect posts for a bed!!! I glued the appliques, screwed and glued the legs in. Then I went online and ordered Milk Paint (non-toxic, no smell, natural paint) in cream and also in white... A few days later it arrived, and I was able to paint the entire bed in about 2 hours (with re-coats). I am very happy with the results. Her room is "a work in progress, her bed is done.

Topic by SniperEve    |  last reply


Dropping out of TGKTR3

As the title suggest, I am dropping out of the tournament. There are several reasons why.1. People don't like the founder of the contest being in it.2. I want to judge this last round personally so people probably won't like me judging my own entry.3. I already started taking apart my unfinished entry.For all those wondering, this was going to be my entry: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ekJEyP_FE

Topic by jollex    |  last reply


Project X is Finally Here!

Can you believe it?!::flourish::Project X is here!After those seven approximate months of the unfinished instructable sitting in my pile, Noah finally encouraged and motivated me to finish it (even while my teachers were still throwing work at me).So, without any further adieu, I give you....==PROJECT X==For those of you that don't know what Project X is, check out my internship log starting here, up till day nine.

Topic by T3h_Muffinator    |  last reply


What should I do to the bare light bulbs in the basement to make them pretty?

Its a very low ceiling. I have some translucent colored vellum (8.5x11). There are several bare lights. My housemates and I want to make a living area down there, there are some couches and a carpet. The walls are stone/concrete (unfinished). General decorating tips are also welcome. I was thinking about star shaped covers, or pin prick art, or something.

Question by wearingpink    |  last reply


Using 2 amp boards at once

I have TDA7297(stereo) and TDA2030A(Mono) amplifier boards and i wanna use both at once. When i just split the input into two and connected it to them 7297 was overheating and i heard scratching sounds (reflection from unfinished Power supply for 2030A?) The problem may be the input impedance-7294 has around 30k and 2030A half a milion ohm. Do i need resistors in series with 7297 input, parallel to 2030A or what else could be problem? Im using 2 separated Power supplies.

Question by AnotherD1    |  last reply


Hey all, I want to put smallish open-ended wrenches on some wood cabinets as handles. How do I do that? Any ideas?

The cabinets are unfinished wood, bought from IKEA, and they are in a hold-all room where we keep our tools and stuff (no garage). I also want to paint them. I need to attach something to the wrenches (hopefully I can find some that are about 4-5 inches long) so they aren't flush with the doors, and then screw them in from the inside of the door. But what do I attach to them? And how? Thanks

Question by notalis1970    |  last reply


Has anyone tried to make a solar light tube

I already have sky lights installed in an unfinished attic. I figure I could try lining some heating duct with some of those Mylar emergency blankets, butt it up against the skylight and then install a modified recessed light fixture in the ceiling. Connect the tube to the light fixture and it should work the same as the $300 units. I understand the effect the dome could have on collecting light, I do have some security camera domes, but don't want to go cutting holes in the roof unless it will work. ???anyone Thanks

Topic by meisjedog    |  last reply


Finally my website's completed.

So I've finished updating my site the only thing left unfinished is the photos section but that'll take a while, other than that it's done and dusted, updated with all my newer instructables and from now on I'll be updating weekly with news and new instructables, along with any interesting stuff I happen upon throughout my week.my site please give me some feedback on the design and content, I'll get more stuff up and add new features as and when I can...Please note that the site may update slowly, the server file refreshing is slow but the response time is great so I can live with it... right now it's a kind of wierd mix on the menu that looks really confusing but you'll see the whole thing

Topic by killerjackalope    |  last reply


How to make a Worm/compost separater/shaker with a straight shaft electric motor? Answered

I raise composting nightcrawlers for fishing bait and worm castings.  I need to make a simple shaking machine with 3 different sizes of screens.  The first screen with keep all of the larger pieces of dirt and twigs from the compost and a few of the larger worms.    The second screen of a smaller mesh will keep most of the worms and a little of the unfinished compost.  The third and final screen will let through only the worm castings and the worm cocoons.  This machine should hold at least a five gallon bucket of compost at a time and the worms have already turned any large particles of garbage; leaves; dirt etc into small parts, but picking these worms out a few at a time is a very time consuming process and I have a lot of 50 gallon barrells to go through.

Question by zimginny    |  last reply


Semi auto MP5K

Hello everyone, i am back agian, with something non generic. I've seen to many basic "slide action" and simple "pin-pull back" guns. Usually, replicas that look good, often can't shoot, and most ugly-looking guns have a unique mech. I decided to combine the two, and make a decent looking mp5k, with a semi auto mech. The mech is different from my semi auto vector's mech, because the trigger is much more stronger than before, and never breaks. This is an unfinished gun, so will post instructions later. Pros and cons: Pros: -semi auto, original idea -magazine with internal pusher -super good looks (compared to my airsoft MP5K) -I kinda perfected the front sight -excels in CQB in knex wars (if you are going to have one) Cons: -hard to pull the trigger -shoots below 20-15 feet -a lot of cut pieces -cut pieces are needed (unfortunately) sorry guys ;(

Topic by CODawesome    |  last reply


Inserting a picture into an instructable in progress make it freeze

I've written quite  few instructables and I'd never run into this problem. Whenever I uploaded a certain picture into my latest instructable, the whole thing would freeze. I couldn't delete the picture, save the work in progress, create or delete steps or do anything! I thought my file must be corrupt and recreated the photo but I continued to have the same problem regardless of what browser I was using (Firefox or Safari). I can't delete the uploaded pictures from my library either because they are "in use" by unfinished instructables I can't change, publish or delete. Finally I tried to change the file name of my picture. It's original name was quite long, so I changed it to muff.jpeg. This solution worked! But I still had to recreate a new instructable from scratch. Even if this is just a parameter which all users need to be aware of when uploading their files I think it could be improved on the website end... it should not be possible to upload pictures unless their filenames are compatible with the site. Now I've no idea how I'll get rid of those useless draft instructables, and the photos with the bad file names in my library....

Topic by belsey    |  last reply


Requesting feedback on a Fire Breathing Dragon test I did in metal wire.

I did this as a test, so no need to grind my gears about the lack of detail or the unfinished wings. Of course, if you feel passionately about it, feel free to grind my gears good and hard. I'd still like to know what ya'll think. Go to the link below for much larger pic if the thumb interests you at all...the thumb is almost useless. http://imageshack.us/a/img267/5623/firetesta.jpg Size wise, in its pose, there's just over 8" between wing tips, just over 5" head to tail, the "stream of fire" is about 5" long out of the mouth...the head is only 3/8" long by 3/16" wide. Made it with some stiffer than I'd expect steel wire I got at the dollar store ages ago, it's about half a millimeter wide...so it's around 24/25 AW/SW gauge I guess. The legs do look a little awkward in the picture, not at all in the hand or other pictures...but I couldn't get them to look right at the viewing angle I wanted to show...so anyway. Imagine it flying overhead burning a village or cooking a cow for dinner. Cheers.

Topic by Thrasym    |  last reply


Square Wave Generator (For Resonant Air-Gap Transformer)

I've decided on a project for the new year that is ~~less likely to lead to sterilization~~ better than my old project (which was a homebrew x-ray machine). My new project is something to wirelessly power some LEDs. I've done some research (read as, YES NACHO, I ALREADY GOOGLED IT!) and looked at puffin's unfinished instructable on IPT (it helped a lot). What I've found out is that to start, I will need something to generate a square wave AC signal. The circuit I decided on is a 555 multivibrator. One of my friends let me copy the schematic from his notebook. I've got a couple of questions still (and I hoped you guys could help). 1st. (Dumb Question) That symbol in the second picture is ground, right? 2nd. Once I build the multivibrator, how would I hook it up with the rest of the circuitry for my air gap transformer? (ie. where would the outputs on the circuit be?) 3rd. What does that symbol (it looks like it should just be a resistor symbol), next to the words speaker or other circuit mean? Is it just a resistor or is it actually the outputs I've been looking for? 4th. Is there anyone who has successfully done a project like this before (recently)? Thanks in advance for any help.

Topic by Gjdj3    |  last reply


Need Help with embellishing ideas. Awesome sheer fabric, no idea how or where to use it?

I have this great sheer fabric that is gray with these really neat flowers.  I have been trying to find a way to use it.  Ideallt I have to add it to a tube and make a it a sleeveless shirt.  But I have no clue how to do that.  i really dont want to have it ruffled or anything that would hide the great design on the fabric.  Its not completely sheer so if it pretty mcu has to be on top of white or light fabric.  Or on top of your skin.  Any ideas?  Or if I could turn a misfitted pencil skirt (a little too big and not fitted through the knee enough), shorten it and add the fabric to the bottom to make it a mini skirt with the sheer fabric fitting from the thight to the knee, like a pencil skirt.  I do not know how to use a pattern, and I dont have a dress form, so I have to do it by measuring and by eye.  Thanks so much! PS...Its a really sofisticated fabric, so some of the ideas Ihave seen for embellishing are too unfinished or "funky". Could not find pic of axactly what I want But Megan fox is wearing a dress with the stype of sheer style I like.  possibly making it V neck would be good.  Remember, mine has detailing.

Question by Bansteatt84    |  last reply


"KEEP ON TASK" alert for ADHD 3rd grader

My 8 year old son, Finn, was recently diagnosed with ADHD/inattentive (what used to be called ADD).  He isn't hyper, he just can't focus.  He is in the 3rd grade and really struggling and wants to do better which is causing him no end of frustration.  He has been brainstorming a lot recently on what may help him and he had an idea. I've look around and can't find it off-the-shelf so I was wondering if anyone has good ideas on approaches to DIY build. Finn's idea was a pencil or pen which is pressure sensitive and detects if he stops writing and gets his attention with a flash of light or a vibration.  This is for use in class so it has to be something that wouldn't distract the other students. I was thinking that instead of a "smart" pen, it may be easier to build a pressure sensitive clipboard which alerts when it's not being written on (when it's supposed to be, of course). It can't be something computer/tablet based, it has to be something he can plug any worksheet into and have it help him stay focused until it's done.  He gets about 4 worksheets a day to "finish in class" and has to bring them home unfinished to add to his homework. Any ideas on a good starting point mechanism would be very appreciated. Regards, Jason

Topic by JasonM140    |  last reply


Sock Wars - Assassination by Knitting

Check out Sock Wars, a knitting-based game of assassination by socks.This sounds awesome, but I definitely don't knit fast enough to even try. (And I've never knitted socks!) Some of you might find it useful, though... looks like anyone can join from any country. Sign-ups close 3 May, assignments go out 9 May.From their info page: WHAT IS SOCK WARS?Sock Wars is the original and bloodiest extreme knitting tournament. If you are brave enough sign up to do battle you will be emailed a top secret assassination dossier on 9th May 2008. This file contains the details of your target and an exclusive, never-been-published-before knitting pattern with which to assassinate them.To kill your target you must knit them the pair of socks in the pattern (your weapon) and mail it to them. Once your target receives your parcel they are dead and must post their death on the "fallen comrades" section of the sockwars site.They must also immediately send you details of their intended target (who becomes your next person to assassinate) along with their unfinished knitting (which becomes your new weapon).All the while this is going on, someone has been assigned you as their target!Prepare to live in fear! Kill or be killed!

Topic by canida    |  last reply


Ceiling art made from beetle shells

In Most European palaces and castles, it is common to find the ceilings decorated with ornate gilded woodwork and elaborate frescoes. In Brussels, Belgium, one particular hall in the Royal Palace has a very peculiar ceiling that is decorated with very strange items. The hall's ceiling, which has remained unfinished since 1909, was redecorated by the contemporary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. Fabre was inspired by Sternocera aequisignata, a type of jewel beetle of the Buprestidae family, which has a shimmering green iridescent shell. Fabre and 30 other diligent artist armed with a truck-full of beetle shells and glue, transformed the empty ceiling into one bejeweled with a sea of swirling and twinkling green. The team also went to work on the center chandelier in the hall, turning it from gilded gold to sparkling green. As one gazes up at the masterpiece from the floor, the whole mass of shells appears to move as the light reflects from different angles.Jan Fabre calls the the ceiling Heaven of Delight, as a reference to ''The Garden of Earthly Delights'' by early Netherlandish painter Hieronymus Bosch ( a personal favorite of mine). The green shells do indeed add a great amount of energy to the once bland and vacant hall. 1.6 million beetle shells were used. The beetles, which are wood-boring and are mostly considered a pest, appears abundantly in India, Thailand, and Vietnam. They are sometimes cooked and eaten, however their beautiful shells are discarded.LinkTranslated Original

Topic by Skyfinity    |  last reply


Powering Video Game Consoles with Single Power Supply?

I'm in the planning stages for a office/video game room. I own a lot of game consoles — around 20. I want to hook them up to two televisions — one HD plasma and one SD CRT (older ones will probably go to the CRT). I'm starting from an unfinished basement, so I have a lot of freedom for the design. One thing I really want to avoid is a rat's nest of cables — 20 consoles can result in a big mess. I'd also like to avoid having wall warts draw power when I'm not using their respective console. With that in mind, plus a desire to introduce a little automation, I'm planning to use an arduino (probably a mega 2560) along with a bunch of relays and a power supply of some sort to do this. For consoles with internal power supplies, I'll run AC through some relays. But for the DC ones, is there anything I should be worried about? I plan to use voltage regulators (possibly variable along with some digital pots) to set the correct voltage for each console. Should I put fuses in line? Diodes? I should mention that I don't plan to ever have more than one console on at a time. That said, I do plan to use a desktop PSU or something like similar that can provide plenty of amps. I don't yet know as much as I'd like to know about DC and what constitutes a good source of power, and I just want to make sure I don't fry any of my consoles through some rookie mistake. I'd appreciate any advice, suggestions, etc. Thanks!

Question by fwonkas    |  last reply


How to design and build a switchable 3 colour LED into a 4x4 (16 cube) shelving system? Answered

Hi all, I've been wrecking my head on this project that I want to make, and I just can't seem to nail it, so hope some of you guys and gurus with much more electronic experience might be able to give me a nudge (or tell me that this is going to be borderline mental). Background: I repair laptops and wish to make a lighting system to give a visual indication of my current work flow. If a new laptop is placed in one of the 16 shelving cubes, I want to hit a switch on that cube to indicate the colour (RED), to say its a new arrival and hasn't been worked on yet. After getting it on the bench for assessment, it will be returned to the cube in one of two forms, either A) Its unfinished and awaiting parts/customer communication (hit switch and show BLUE LED) or B) Its finished and ready for collection (hit switch and show GREEN LED). The only thing close to an off the shelf (no pun intended) product that I've been able to find is 31cm wide Aquarium overhead LED for fish tanks. These come in at £11 GBP each, and I need 16 of the guys... so £176 to begin with as well as the issue with each unit having its own 12v Power Supply that needs plugged in! (Ouch). So, can someone here possibly recommend a solution to this that A) Isn't going to cost me my first born child and B) Not use up every plug in the house! :D I will admit, I'm actually not entirely averse to buying the 31cm bars as above, but would definitely need to be able to address the power requirements safely. I'm really looking forward to your ideas or certainly if you know of any other off the shelf (still no pun intended) product that I could modify to fulfil my needs.

Question by sheasmith    |  last reply


Knex Combat/War Worthy Shotgun - A Tribute

Hello everyone,  So, out of the blue I decided to take a walk down memory lane and watch some old K'nex gun videos on YouTube. After some time, I came across a video from several years ago. I'll link the original below, but basically it was a video by KILLERK about wanting to build a more war-worthy shotgun. There were a couple of these videos where he basically talked about what he wanted to have on this gun. At the time, I didn't see a video or any post on a finish product, so I decided to build it myself based upon his wants.  Note this gun is unfinished as I just wanted to show it off. However, it will be completely finished, and if there is a demand I will make instructions for it. The following are the guns features, along with its characteristics: -Pin guide -Charging bolt -Straight-pullback rolling trigger -Comfy stock -Comfy handle -Trigger guard -Finger separator  -Sturdy construction -No broken parts (None are required)  -Good ergonomics -Looks nice/clean -Shotgun turret, with KILLERK's shells -Because of the design, trigger strength, and shell design, the gun is very powerful -Good spread of bullets, thanks to the shell Now for something a little more personal. Personally,I think it is the best gun I have ever made. I wanted to make one last gun that revived old concepts as sort of a thank you to the community that I've been on since 2011. This community has been a considerable part of my life, as I used to spend a lot of timing playing with these plastic toys. With leaving for college in a month, I don't see myself really building anymore, not to mention posting anything new. The post I make for this gun will be my last K'nex related post. However, like most, I'll still lurk around.  KILLERK's video Thank you to all.  -Didexo

Topic by didexo    |  last reply


Molding Aluminum: With Gravity Die Casting

It's expensive, untested and dangerous.The idea goes like this. Start with a coffee can foundry, possibly powered with Biodiesel or Propane. Then design a mold for what you want to build using Autocad or some variant thereof. After it's finished, send the design to a machine shop to have it built out of steel. When you receive the permanent mold, melt the aluminum and pour into the mold repeatedly and often.The idea seems like a good one to me, I'll be testing it soon enough using common screw clamps to keep the mold tightly secure.Has anyone here done this? The closest I've come to doing it myself is pouring into a muffin tin.The photo below is a picture of the results which was taken from another board found here, you'll need a login, the photos are located in the forum under Machining and Tooling.Give me a shout if you dig the idea.UPDATE 5/24/07It works! Using my Harbor Freight Mini-Mill I cut out pockets in two pieces of 1018 steel, each about an inch deep, and four inches across. I then cut inlets in both pieces and welded some scrap steel U channel on the tops of both mold sections to form a pool enclosure for the excess aluminum to collect inside of and stay safely contained.Then I lit the candle on my foundry and melted the aluminum while at the same time pre-heating the molds, (connected using C-clamps) in the oven. When the aluminum melted, I poured it and it instantly solidified. After about 2 minutes of running around in a panic I cracked the mold open. The detail level is incredible. Impressions made in the mold with a fly-cutter can be seen in the casting. The casting is bright, shiny, and seemingly devoid of any burs usually associated with unfinished aluminum castings.I'll provide photos later of the test mold and casting.

Topic by Inspiracy    |  last reply


Translated instructable

Hej! Today I recognized a translated version of one of my ibles and I'd like to give some feedback about the experience ;) I think it's supercool someone took the time and made the effort to translate one of my ibles. I really enjoy the fact that people I would never be able to talk to now can read my ible.  That's actually amazing and I'd like to thank you for that! And I want to share some of my thoughts and feelings about it: REALIZING: - The first few moments when I realized there was a new instructable existing in my account I was a little bit in shock.  Don't get me wrong - but my profile feels like my "private" spot on the site. It's a messy place with lot's of weird draft ideas and unfinished instructables. (I would have tidied up if I'd expected guests...) Of course I surmised admins and staff somehow would be able to enter this place - but I feel a little invaded as it actually happened.   -- I think there are several possibilities to avoid this irritating moment: -The translator could write a PM before starting the translation. Just to inform the author about there is soon going to be another version of one of your ibles. (This might be a little bit more "paperwork" but could also save the translator some time. There is a chance an author speaks another language and would be able to do the translation him/herself...) - The translator (or the instructables robot) could send a PM to the author when the translation is published to inform him/her about the new ible. (I'm a sucker for those "your instructable was featured" mails - a "your instructable was translated" mail would make me happy and would help me to forget about the girl's cave invasion)  INSPECTION: - I can't say anything about the quality of the translation since I don't speak spanish - but it seems to me the translator was pretty meticulous on his/her job: the wikipedia links in the instructable are "translated" as well and link now (as far as possible) to the spanish wikipedia. That's thoughtful and I really appreciate it! (It's a funny thing that, although I can't actually read this instructable, it still feels like "mine".) SUGGESTION: I think it wouldn't hurt if the translator adds a very last sentence to the translated instructable like " this instructable was translated by XY" There are several advantages to this info: - There would be given some credit to the translator - The people writing comments wouldn't be confused about the combination of a perfectly written instructable and google translated comment replies... I have no clue who translated my ible. I think it would be awesome if the translator had a instructables profile. I would like to thank this person!  So this is my feedback, might it be useful... (Woho! I'm exited about the translation! This is übercool! Thank you! )

Topic by spunk    |  last reply


Would a star rating system for Instructables be a useful feature?

This recent Instructables UI update has got me thinking.Star rankings provided by users are useful feedback options that are all over the web.Instructables has been around for a long time and has had about a gajillion (citation needed) how-to's-posted over the years. There is a fair amount of redundancy in some of these projects (looking at you, Minecraft, pen guns, drawing tutorials, most of the airsoft category) and they vary WIDELY in quality from very in depth valuable content to stuff that barely qualifies as a how-to at all. What if they could be ranked? The ranking score of each how-to would be a simple out-of-5-star rating. This rating could be used for a few things:Sorting when searching. Obvious really, when you search for a how-to, there could be a little sorting option to sort by typical variables like time, views, and rating. This would help direct users to better content.Allow mods/helpful people to figure out what how-tos are really not working. This would sort the mass of content into a more easily managed hierarchy. With the new tips feature that allows people to give input on projects, this sorting would really highlight what projects really need some help, allowing users to help less successful users to improve their content.This gives a direct amount of feedback for the user, sure, views help to show the amount of interest in a project, but interest does not equal overall quality. If a user posts something that is low quality (poorly written, misleading, bad pictures, unfinished, unedited, plagiarist, or just plain dangerous) and they can see that they get a bad rating, it is a good sign that they need to work on their content.An automated service in the site could give people a head's up if their content is consistently rating low. You could get a message that says something like "Hey, we noticed that ________ instructable is performing poorly, here's some suggestions that could help it improve! (then link to the how-to-make-a-good-instructable-content) This keeps users focused on all of their content, not just recent stuff. Obviously there should be a switch that lets users turn these notifications on and off so if they don't care to use it, it's not forced on them.There are problems with this, of course. Ranking users means that personal taste can influence the quality rating of a project, rather than the actual quality of the content. Someone who hates cats could go poorly rate all the cat-related content, regardless of it's overall quality. This means there needs to be a way to make sure that the star-rating system isn't abused too much to damage good content. There needs to be a barrier to entry. Some suggested barriers to entry for star rating privileges could be:Pro membership automatically lets you rank content (pro never seemed that exclusive anyway, this could make it more desirable)Having X number of instructables posted lets you rank content (3 I think would be a fair number)Having X number of views/comments lets you rank contentWinning a contest lets you rank contentHaving the star rating of your instructables be net positive would let you rank content (IE, the majority of all your content has an above 3 star rating)These barriers or a combination of them would help ensure that only personally invested users would have access to the ranking system to ensure good data.Thoughts? Would be awesome if a moderator or Instructables dev could chime in here.

Topic by ilpug    |  last reply


How do I install a new electrical outlet? Answered

I need guidance on how to install a new electrical outlet to an existing wall.  My bathroom only has one electrical outlet, and it's located on the vanity light over the sinks (see photo close-up of light outlet on outdated fixture with rad vintage pastel ikat wallpaper).  More info:  Usually this should be pretty easy, since there should be an outlet on the other side of the wall that you can just tap in to; but there's no outlets on the other side of any of these walls (see wall descriptions below).  There are electrical wires running through these walls though, powering lighting and heating.  So, can I just cut a hole in the wall, reach my hand in, grab a random wire, cut it, splice in wiring to a new outlet, and magically everything works?  Probably not that simple.  I can grasp the basics involved in this, but I'm not 100% certain on how to proceed with my situation since I don't think I need to deal with feeding up new separating wiring from the basement but I also just can't easily tap into an adjacent existing outlet.    Floor plan: There's 2 switches at the bathroom entrance: one for the lights, one for the bathroom fan. The light switch controls 2 light fixtures: the one overhead light (it's a light/fan combo) as well as the lighting above the sink.  See scan image for rough sketch of current electrical floor plan. Wall descriptions based on sketch: Left wall: interior wall; on other side of the wall is an electric baseboard heater; door to hallway Bottom wall: exterior wall; window Right wall: interior wall; adjacent room is unfinished "attic" area above garage with sloped ceiling* Top wall: interior wall; adjacent stairwell; wall-mounted light fixture with outlet; small under-cabinet baseboard heating vent thing I would like to know if/how I can tap into the electricity of that sink light fixture to be able to relocate the electrical outlet lower, closer to the sink counter, and possibly off to the side (so, not central to the counter as it currently is).  See scan image for rough sketch of proposed electrical floor plan (ignore birds, I was using scrap paper).  I realize if I were to relocate it off to the side, I'd need to drill through studs and make more more holes in the wall, but that's fine, as I was thinking of creating storage space between the studs anyway. I'm planning on replacing the current sink light fixture with either a) another wall fixture in the same location, b) 2 separate wall fixtures, one above each sink, or c) 3 separate wall sconces, a leftmost one, a center, and a rightmost one.  I haven't decided on what will look and function the best.   I'm sure there was a much more succinct way of asking this question and describing my situation, but I am clueless about electricity and wiring and whatnot.  Despite my inexperience and ignorance I still feel like this is a task I'm capable of, but I'd like to seek the guidance of you wonderful Instructables' folks on how to do this.  I'd like to know where you think the outlet(s) should go based on the information I provided, and then how I get the power to that outlet without electrocuting myself and frying the house.   * I first was going to say that this attic ceiling outlet is the nearest thing to an adjacent outlet, but I just remembered there's an outlet at the top of the stairs, adjacent to the attic (meaning, not on the other side of a bathroom wall).  The attic ceiling outlet is controlled by a light switch inside attic entrance anyway, and this is an insulated roof wall too. 

Question by Pompom    |  last reply