I was thinking of making a welder that uses a capacitor bank, and does stick welding (STAW). How would I go about doing this? Any other ideas for homemade welders? A small desktop welder?
Topic by LinuxH4x0r | last reply
Hello, I am currently in the process of making a pneumatic air-gun, I have previously made one out of PVC but had major leakage problems.. Ive moved on to metal.. Will high pressures break the welds and fly off and hit me in the face?? What pressures? Can I weld brass to steel?
Topic by alex117 | last reply
So I see tons of instructables for no weld bikes, trailers, and all kinds of stuff. Well, I just got a new flux wirefeed welder. I need something to weld! It has just been sitting there after I stopped practicing to save some wire. I welded the seats down in my car and want a new project that's not too hard. Give me your ideas!
Topic by Yerboogieman | last reply
This is s a general forum for people to post questions and tips they have found over the time they've spent welding My question/tip is this - I recently had to weld two pieces of oddly shaped steel together. Placement and alignment was important for me but the shapes of the steel pieces made clamping them together a bit of a mission. My solution was to position and hold the pieces of steel using prestik (probably the south african equivalent of U.S. bluetack - maybe chewing gum could work) and then the steel pieces didn't move while I tacked them in place. My question is obviously whether this is a questionable practice because of fumes (I didn't notice any) or weakening of the weld from the prestik inclusion (it seems to be holding quite nicely though and the piece is now the switch activator for a press strip feeder. If you can't think of any problems then its a tip
Topic by djmachet | last reply
I want to get into art welding and don't have any welding experience. Where can I go to get welding instruction and guidance for small projects. I don't know the difference between a TIG, MIG, or Arc welders. Which one is the best to learn on?Not intrested in jewelry. Thanks
Topic by bouche | last reply
Howdy folks, I've got a question that I hope someone might be able to help me with. I'm interesting in creating a way to "weld" fabric together. Basically taking two pieces of fabric, using heat, pressure and "glue" attach them together. Think of Nike footwear and there sewless uppers. Anyone out there done anything like this DIY style? I've got a number of projects that I could create from it. Thanks in advance, TOM
Topic by thmsbender | last reply
My father-in-law just gave me this 295 amp arc welding rig (he's forbidden to use it anymore--pacemaker.) It's complete with mask, rods, etc. I've never welded before, and have a couple questions:-- Any good books or tutorials to recommend?-- I live in an older home (1930s), which has bus fuses and certainly can't supply 295 amps without burning out (or down.)Should I get a separate service installed for the garage? Is it expensive? I've looked on the power company website, and it's typical superficial information for the average customer...
Topic by gmoon | last reply
I have a 1970 HT panelvan which i am restoring. I have replaced a floor panel but i cannot get the main undersuport panel to take to the new floor panel i have cleaned thw paint off the area need and clamped it tight. I drilled holes throught the support panel and gave plenty of weld but it did not take in any area why is this happening can anyone help
Topic by wayneavery | last reply
So, I have a half formed idea to turn a forge into a welding device, by somehow 'extruding' or directing a flame from the fire, maybe through a tube, to a point, to heat the metal to be welded. Using a water hose analogy, it's like creating a high pressure water hose from a tank or reservoir...or something. Please don't say things like 'just buy a welder"... etc. I'm looking at doing something unique (maybe) and off-grid, that doesn't involve electricity or batteries or propane gas...etc., just pure flame, and available natural resources like air, belows, oxygen...etc. Any thoughts how this might work?
Topic by isaacacheampong | last reply
Hello I am an exhibits designer and builder for a museum. I weld and do some machining every week. I would like to take formal classes here in Philadelphia or the surrounding area but I can not find a single program! One would think that in a major city there would be something but no luck so far. Does anyone know of a school. New Jersey would be ok too. Thank You Montrose
Topic by Montrose | last reply
I'm building a cnc machine and I just bought a whole bunch of steel vat a surplus store. I need to braze or weld them together, but I can't braze since the objects too big for my propane tank, it disipates tthe heat to fast. I can't afford an arc welder. What should I do? I don't want to use nuts and bolts because that adds wiggle to the machine and I lose all of my accuracy.
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
Ok i have one LCD from a welding mask and i need another. What i want to do is basically make auto-dimming glasses. I want this particular type because all i have to do is apply a few volts and the entire thing will dim, it makes things simple. Can someone please tell me where i can buy some if anywhere. Or give me a suggestion as to what else i could use.
Question by OverSaltedFry | last reply
I've ordered some polymorph (shape lock, friendly plastic) so I'll be able to try it myself in a few days, but I was wondering if it's possible to attach (for example) a polymorph rod to a block by heating a spot with a pen-torch and hot air attachment then pushing the rod against it?
Question by AndyGadget | last reply
I want to build a recumbent bike, but I can't weld. Any other ways to build one. Mabye make one from hockey sticks.
Question by ANDY! | last reply
Hello, I am building a sensor base one modified stock camera for agriculture survey,this sensor will be under a drone. I an looking to build the structure that hold this two camera. I know how to weld using Stick and Mig so i was looking to use mild steel plate, and bend it to get more resistance. but i don't know how to calculate the minimum thickness ( weight is really important). On the photo attached the red circle and opposite screw hold and the blue one is a bigger screw hole. Each of the two camera weight 250 grams and they are 10 cm heigh. All the best Vincent
Topic by VincentD48 | last reply
JB weld, the gooey-at-first,tough-as-rock-later-on stuff we use to fix all kinds of stuff, from broken chairs to unsightly holes- the number of possibilities are endless. So, is it possible for large amounts of Jb weld to be casted into a bulletproof suit that can actually save lives?
Question by Boppo3 | last reply
I tend to do a good bit of research when I purchase anything. I will spend hours finding the deal that will save me five cents. While this doesn't make much financial sense for me, maybe it will end up being worth it if you can save a few cents in the process!The only step to this instructable is a list of the best places I've found to purchase JB Weld. For those who are not familiar with JB Weld, it is, simply put, God, in a tube. It is an epoxy that when mixed (and mix quickly, you only have about 20 minutes of pliability) will set within 4-6 hours, and cure within 24. Once cured, it has the strength of steel, can bind with glass, and neatest of all, is actually conductive enough to use as solder!Note that I'm only referring to the original JB Weld, model 8265 (and 8265-S). I find the stick version doesn't adhere as well, and the "Kwick" version isn't as strong. I also tend to be stubborn and just stick with what I'm comfortable with.Since the invention of Duct Tape (genuflect) nothing has been so valuable to mankind. Thus, it's not surprising to find it anywhere from $9.99 a tube, up to $14.99 per tube. So how much should you be paying for your J.B. Weld?If ordered online, you can get it for as little as $2.95 per tube!Note: These prices are only accurate as of the posting of this instructable (29 June 2009)Okay, so if you've come this far, $2.95 per tube sounds pretty exciting. Keep in mind though that you're also going to end up dealing with shipping, so we'll see what the end result will be. When in doubt, if you have a local Ace Hardware, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. look there first. You avoid shipping, and the Ace online outlet sells it for as little as $3.25 per tube (No idea why nobody else, including Sears, KMart, Target, etc. carries it online). If you can find it in the store for that price, that would be your best bet. But assuming you don't have a local Ace Hardware, or since they're locally owned the Franchise Owner is a prick that overprices things, let's see how the following websites work out.First, it's important to note that while you will find many other places online that claim to sell the JB Weld for as little as $2.95 per tube, just try to purchase them. I'll wait... Back? So as you saw, 99.9% of these sites use the Amazon.com checkout system, and only allow ONE TUBE AT A TIME to be purchased. They then hit you with a $4.99 shipping fee for each pop, and now you're back to paying $8 per tube.On to the real suppliers:#1) Tool Explosion - The best price I've found with free shipping, but their free shipping minimum purchase is $100, and their JB Weld was only $3.76 per tube when last checked! One of the better deals out there. Between $100-$130 worth, this was the best deal I could find.#2) Alexandria General Supply - To get the $2.95 price here, you have to buy in 6 packs, otherwise it's more expensive. But hey, more JB Weld can only be a good thing. They seem to have a starting-rate of $17.05 for shipping, which is nearly as much as the 6-pack of JB Weld, making them almost $6 per. However, the more you order, the price of shipping will actually start to go DOWN. At 7 cases (42 tubes), it dropped to $7.41 for shipping making it $3.12 per tube, and at 20 cases, it was only up to $8.16 for shipping, making bulk purchases very much worth it. At $131.31 for 42 tubes, this was the best deal out there, and only gets better the higher you go. They do not accept PayPal, but do accept all major credit cards.#3) Ace Hardware Outlet - Don't ask me why AceHardware.com doesn't carry it, but AceHardwareOutlet does, but I'm not going to argue. At its respectable price of $3.39 per tube, it's not a bad deal if you're buying in bulk. Unfortunately, for just a single tube to ship, you're looking at $6.39 for shipping. The shipping rates only slowly go up the more you pile on, so if you're doing some shopping for some other hardware, Ace is The Place... For Me... (Plus, they take PayPal!) For individual tubes assuming you can't find anything locally, this is the best price going. At least buy 2 or 3 tubes at a time to make the shipping worth it, though.#4) Hands-On Tools - Another site with fair shipping, and a decent price of $3.66 per tube. Not much to say about this one, except that they seem to be one of the more reputable sites selling the weld for a good price. They work with the BBB and have a good rating, accept PayPal, and give you percentage discounts the more you buy. All around a solid company.#5) Castle Wholesalers - One of my personal favorites (since they are located near me, mostly) selling the JB Weld at $3.47 per tube. However, do keep in mind that you have a $25 minimum order here. Their prices are pretty standard for shipping, so you can add about $1 per tube once you've bought the requisite $25 worth. The more you buy, the cheaper the shipping gets per tube, as well. Only Visa and Mastercard accepted.#6) College Toolbox - While their price isn't the best, it's still a fun site with some decent stuff at fair prices. At $4.11 per tube, it's not necessarily worth the purchase here unless you find enough of their gear to get the "$150 purchase gets free shipping" thing. (And they take PayPal)In closing, if needing just a tube or two, your best bet is always going to be to shop locally, and buy from a hardware store. But once you start getting into the $5 and $6 price range, there are some decent places online to pick it up (if you don't mind the wait). Always take shipping into account, and always avoid Amazon.com and their Affiliate's rip-off schemes. If you see the Amazon logo, run far and fast (or at least close the window). E-Bay is equally a rip-off, only moreso as you're starting at the $9.99 level, and then tacking shipping onto that.For the hobbyist that understands the glory that is JB Weld, drop the $130 and get enough JB Weld to last you for a long, long time. For all others, I would recommend avoiding purchasing it online unless you absolutely can't find it for a fair price in your local stores (I can't stress that enough. Shipping is the debbil.)Hope this helps someone, and if anyone finds a better price, feel free to include it in the comments and I'll add it to the list!
Topic by Javin007 | last reply
I'm trying to spot weld battery tabs for rebuilding a Nicad battery. I'm using a 12 volt SLA battery for power. When I touch the leads they get so hot they burn the tabs, but the weld doesn't penetrate the battery. What am I doing wrong?
Question by johnnytombstone | last reply
have always been making things from instructables, but i was limited to office warfare type things knex etc. I have always taken interest in what my dad is doing in the garage. From making me bb gun targets to welding brackets on my bmx bike. My dad was really happy when i started to take an interest in welding. I welded for the first time tonight. He was impressed with me. He said that i can already weld better than a lot of people he knows. this was just something i tacked together.
Topic by ajmerc10
I want to be able to tackle many instructables that involved welding, and to be able to build things like a go-kart chassis, or do cheap car repairs. I know there are lots of types of welding, what is the best for general this-and-that stuff thanks
Question by sladek | last reply
Hi guys i wanna make a welder. i checked https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-an-ARC-Welder-Part-1-of-2/ there the king uses 8 awg copper cables for the winding of the transformers. here (namibia) they seem to have only 6 or 10 sqare mm cables. can i use 1 of those?
Topic by kefflon | last reply
Having seen the microwave transformer welding kit and similar projects I started wondering about this one... Induction cookers are basically one side of a transformer and usually just dissipate current in to the pot to heat up the pot. But they've a high number of coils and I've seen them rated at 3000 watts, so if you made a coil that was a few turns of thick wire to be the other side of the transformer you'd possibly be able to have a huge current low voltage supply similar to the microwave oven welder. I imagine there'd be safety devices that may need disabled but the idea of your oven being a welder seems cool to me, especially if someone had a need to weld often and their kitchen was through to their garage.
Question by killerjackalope | last reply
Question by rdrnnr | last reply
I'm pretty sure that anyone who has oxyacytelene welded has had a weld "pop" when they jab the rod into it or overheat the molten metal. I've been doing some oxyacetylene welding and I'm working on my lap joints. When I was simply laying a straight line on weld across a plate I never made the weld "pop." Now every time I pick up a torch and try a lap joint it goes "POP!" and flings molten metal everywhere. What am I doing wrong? Can anyone shed some light on my problem? Any help is much appreciated!
Question by dla888 | last reply
AC vs DC welding. I'm not contesting whether DC is better. Consensus is "yes" But what about the physics of _WHY_ it is better? Theory: when a droplet of steel on the electrode is charged opposite of the workpiece, it is drawn toward the workpiece. BUT in AC, there are moments when the charge drops to zero and reverses. At that time, might the droplets of steel, for just a moment, be electrostatically drawn back toward the electrode? Y,N,M?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Topic by beserker | last reply
I am in the process of building a wood stove (details on FE Blog) mainly from scrap metal, but I have got it into my head that a stainless steel hotplate would be nice. I wanted one 10mm thick, round with a diameter of 390mm. As it turns out 6mm seems to be a bit of a threshold for stainless, and anything over has to be laser cut or similar and is loads more expensive. Like £80 is the cheapest I can find it. Anyway, one solution would be to buy two 5mm thick plates and weld round the circumference - that seems like it would work out quite a lot cheaper. The question is how would the thermal conductivity be affected by the tiny gaps which would inevitably remain in the centre (the two plates will never be completely flat)? Is there some kind of thermal paste that could mitigate this, which is very heat resistant? If so how would it deal with being superheated by the welding, and would it contaminate the weld? And lastly - this got me to thinking about copper bottomed pans - how do they bond the copper to the stainless steel (google is failing me- or I am failing google with poor search terms)?? So 3 sort of related questions: 1.Welded plate- big conductivity problem or naught to worry bout? 2.Super high temp. thermal past - would it help? 3.How are pans copper bottomed anyway?? Thanks, Bongo
Question by bongodrummer | last reply
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Topic by beserker | last reply
Let's add Welding as a craft subject listed under crafts and also get some nice welding projects.
Topic by geezerbeast
Pls answer this querry.
Question by vivekair | last reply
Question by fgask1949 | last reply
Has anybody ever heard of or created a cordless foot pedal (remote) for tig welding? I hate having to buy new foot pedals for our Miller Synchrowave TIG/ Stick when the power cable gets cut or burned through. Thought about "bluetooth" signal.
Question by bobhdus | last reply
I have this ARC welder which puts out 50 AMPS, flip the switch gives you 80 AMPS. I would like to spot weld thin metals for a project i am working on, and by all accounts on what iI have seen on the INSTRUCTABLES all I would need is the copper tips attached to the clamp device
Question by yeagerxp | last reply
Question by bigmark | last reply
I need to weld a 3/8 inch thick piece of aluminum together. I was wondering if there was a specific rod to be used. I have 2011 1/8 rods. Just putting it out there. I never had to work with aluminum.
Question by unominame | last reply
It's been a while but last weekend I had to some quick TIG welding for a friend with no clue how to use a TIG welder at all.Still wonder why he felt the need to buy one LOLAnyway, the regulator was quite crappy and seemed to only provide next to no gas flow or literally a massive blow from the hand piece.Back home I started to wonder why there is no batter way to direct a smaller volume of gas to keep an inert atmosphere around the welding area.There is a relation between tip position, arc length and nozzle diameter.Obviously the more amp you need the more gas you might need.There are guidlines for the flow rate in regards to the amps used for a reason.And anyone who ever tried to use a TIG welder outside on a windy day knows only too well how costly or annyoing the job might end up to be.A fancy kitchen range hood I saw years ago popped back into my mind.It was a costly designer thing that used directed vortex streams to "suck" away whatever comes from your pots and pans on the oven.Worked surprisingly well and with low noise too.Shouldn't it be possible to make such a design work "in reverse"?A vortex style ceramic nozzle in the hand piece would allow for a much lower flow rate while still providing a strong and concentrated flow of gas right on the welding area.IMHO it should also allow for a much more stable plasma/arc.According to my guestimations a reducion in flow rate of 40-60 should be well in reach - a considerable cost factor...Too bad I can't used my 3D printer for ceramic :(
Topic by Downunder35m