How to thread an aluminium rod

Hi, I have got some 1 inch aluminium pipes (GI pipes) which I want to thread. I got the threading machine (hand held racheting type) and when I try to thread using that, it goes about 2 threads and after that, its pain - so stiff and even after exerting all my force, the pipe wont thread. I had read that to thread easier, you should coat the pipe with Wax or threading oil. Is there any other tips or tricks that you have used for threading? Any input is greatly appreciated. Regards, Sujith

Posted by slsujith 8 years ago


SELL

How can i sell in your site an aluminium cast foundry?

Posted by anastasiakariotou 4 years ago



How is this person moulding paper onto aluminium?

Hi Guys, Intrigued about this guys process... would it be heat gun? http://www.seventeengallery.com/artists/jon-rafman/new-age-demanded/

Posted by jarris 5 years ago


Anyone in the uk with a lathe. I need some simple turning done.

Is there anyone in the UK that could do this for me at a reasonable price? I have some pieces of aluminium 25mm round bar that I need some simple turning work done on. I need one end of the bar taking down to 24mm and a 25mm deep hole threaded to take a 1/4 UNC bolt in the other end, Other aluminium 25mm round bars need a 25mm deep hole threaded to take a 1/4 UNC bolt in one end and a 25mm deep hole threaded to take a 3/8 UNC bolt in the other end. I am in Reading Berkshire.

Posted by yellowcatt 5 years ago


Laser cutting.

Hello (excuse my English really bad I'm Belgian and French) I would like to cut aluminum sheet of + - 5 mm thick and also cut paper without "burning the edges" I would like to know what kind of "laser head" the cheapest possible exists and what would be even better, whether this kind of "laser head" is recovering ... I was thinking of a DVD laser burner but, even though I I'm as good at DIY as an elephant is good at skydiving, I guess a DVD burner will not cut aluminum ... A big thank-you

Posted by Hiram 11 months ago


Metal T-Frame Basics

Hi there, I'm new here and pretty much to DIY in general (except for general repairs) - I'm planning to build a glass dry-wipe board with a simple aluminium T-Frame and need a bit of basic advice. Not knowing the lingo of the trade, its been very hard to find suppliers/information and my research seems to have gone as far as it will ever get, so I figured it was time to ask for some help. I've managed to find a supplier who stocks 25mm square al tubing and was wondering about the best way to construct the frame. My design for the frame is extremely simple - it's just a t-frame with a single crossbar which will run below the pane of glass. I have access to a reasonably well equiped workshop, but unfortunately no welding gear (I hear that al is difficult to weld anyway) which isn't too much of a problem as I would like to be able to deconstruct the frame. I would appreciate any tips which may be useful to a newbie, but mainly I need to know how to fix the al bars at right angles in a non-permanent manner. The desk which I'm sitting at right now has some sort of threaded inserts at the end of each crossbar, allowing it to be bolted a right angles to the frame. I tried googling these inserts, but couldn't find anything which seemed relevant. If anyone could point me in the direction of these inserts or provide an alternative solution, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you

Posted by CorruptioN 9 years ago


Aluminium casting

Hi Can anyone help this old codger trying his first casting please. What I am trying to make is an aluminium block, 150mm square by 52mm thick with a 100mm hole in the centre, hopefully with a decent finish as I am short on finishing equipment. I am planning to weld angle iron into a square to make the sides, use a section of 100mm steel tube for the centre hole and tack weld them onto a steel plate to make the mould. I also want to fill the tube to make a disc. Does this this sound feasible please, also will the aluminium, as it shrink as it cools, get stressed by the centre steel tube. When I have poured the aluminimium into the moulds, do I slide a scraper across the top to get a reasonable finish. Many thanks Keith

Posted by axus4 10 years ago


Soldering aluminium and stainless steel - input for an Instructable

I am currently working on a new Instructable covering the topic of soldering aluminium and stainless steel. As I am "old school" and don't like to waste money on special equippment unless really necessary, I would like to get some feedback on what to include. So far I covered the basics of the materials, the general how to and what to llok out for. Pics and videos will be made once I am happy with the tutorials to give a better understanding. Aluminium is considered to be hard to solder with no experience and I would like to try to make it possible for the hobbiest to do it, same for stainless steel. For example: Should I include my recepies for stainless steel fluxes or limit it to the procedure of actually doing it without any flux? Is is better to document with nice pictures or videos showing the entire process? (asking the noobs that want to learn it) Is it necessary to go into details like what solder alloy is best for the purpose? For me it is quite hard to go back to a "I know nothing about it state" and make sure everything a noob might need is included. But the longer I work on it the bigger the Instructable is getting with informations that not everyone might need, like how to properly clean the surface, remove the oxide layerand provide the right temperature for the job. Trying to keep it simple but complete and not drifting into boring details is harder than I tough on this topic :( Feedback and requests are welcome!

Posted by Downunder35m 3 years ago


The Ultimate Water-Powered Rocket!

NASA and the Air Force Office of Scientific Research (AFOSR) have launched a water-powered rocket 1300 feet into the atmosphere!The rocket was actually propelled by a frozen mixture of "nanoscale aluminium" (isn't that "dust"?) and water, pumped in at the consistency of toothpaste and then frozen in place. The propellant is known as ALICE (aluminium and ice - convenient, eh?)Earlier this month, the collaborative team, Drs. Steven F. Son and Tim Pourpoint of Purdue, Rich Yetter and Grant Risha of Penn State, Vigor Yang of Georgia Tech, Harold Bell and Frank Bauer of NASA, and Mitat Birkan and Thomas Russell of AFOSR watched as the rocket soared high into the sky, to 1300 feet near Purdue University.ALICE is generating excitement among the researchers because it has the potential to replace some liquid or solid propellants. It is a promising propellant energetically. Theoretically, when it is optimized, it could have a higher performance than a conventional propellant. In addition, because of the abundance and easy handling of the raw materials, ALICE could potentially become the propellant of choice for missions leaving other planets, since it could be (relatively) easy to manufacture from local raw materials and far easier to store than cryogenic fuels. Story from Wright-Patterson Air Force Base via Rocket Dungeon.Video found by Jeff-O

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


Possibly the perfect reflective surface for solar?

For those aware of my open source solar energy project, I've just finished giving the first free construction workshop at the Riverside community in Motueka, New Zealand, which went really well. Details to be posted to the blog in the next couple days. But the point of this post is; for the previous two prototypes of the device I used kitchen foil for the reflective surface, stretched over the back of a welded wire mesh. This worked actually quite well, but takes a bit of prep and you can put your finger straight through the thing. But during the course of the workshop I was donated some 60 cm x 90 cm aluminium lithographic offset printing plates, which a guy had picked up for $1.50 a piece from a local newspaper. I rang their printers and was told that they were not only aluminium, but of a particularly high grade. His company alone, and it wasn't large, apparently scraps about 900 of these every week. He said it was a very common printing process, tho I don't know about countries other than NZ. I didn't really need to polish them, despite being over three years old, and they were a nice thickness to curve into a parabolic trough. So: very cheap, very highly reflective, can get everywhere and nice to work with. Should take environmental wear and tear well. Perfect? We just make home concentrated solar a lot more achievable?

Posted by SolarFlower_org 7 years ago


How Do I Attach /Connect Bistro Blinds To An Existing "Colorbond" Carport?

Hi , I hope there is help here? I have wracked my brain s out !!!  I built an awning off the house - Well I didn't  ...a tradie did... but to my specs..and the awning is useless as it needs sides... so I want to put up bistro (Plastic ) blinds... I think the weight of them will be too heavy .. Or when I screw into a hollow beam I will have no way of stopping the beam from stretching as it's  has thin and light sides...  So I need help Do I go through to the other side of the beam to put into place a ????  Maybe I want a strong metal sleeve that will enable me to screw ? bolt? attach these blinds?? Any ideas? Thanks heaps if you read this ....and have any ideas...!

Posted by screamingjet 6 years ago


how do u get aluminium powder

How do u get aluminium powder? do u just grind aluminium into a fine powder or what??

Posted by 10wellsmit 11 years ago


Snap-fit design

Hello all, The left panel in the image I have uploaded represents aluminium frame, 1mm thick. What I would like to do is design another aluminium or plastic piece that can snap into the inside of this frame (something like the right panel in the image). The frame, once positioned in, would be a permanent fixture. I have looked at different kind of snap-fit joints but I'm not sure on what's the most appropriate design in terms of simplicity and functionality. Another issue is calculating the actual dimensions of the snap-fit joints. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Posted by Ribenaisnice 2 years ago


Looking for a creative idea - fastening

I was wondering, perhaps somebody has a creative idea how to fasten a piece of Velcro to an aluminium plank 3/8'' wide. I was thinking: 1. Riveting - the head is to big though and the result is not as flush as I would like to be. 2. Glue - I don't like gluing things, would rather have a mechanical\fusing solution. But even if I agree to do so, what kind of glue should I use?

Posted by dneishtadt 4 years ago


Where to find

Alright everybody, I have a project that requires aluminum rods that will fit together. Does anyone know of a place like mcmaster, in the sense that you can pick and choose your sizes and grades but with a quality that is not industrial? McMaster is just too expensive when looking at aluminum rods. Also, what grade of aluminum do all you DIYers find is the best for multipurpose use? All help is appreciated

Posted by wj04 10 years ago


lost wax casting: what material is the best for pouring metal into?

So I made a rad Yoda wax figurine recently and I'm looking into converting him into a aluminum via the lost wax casting method. I've seen some other instructables on casting the metal into plaster of paris, but that doesn't seem to preserve the very fine details that I want. There are a few other methods I've seen on other forums, like mixing fine sand with plaster and making a ceramic mold...I have even wackier ideas like using fireproof cement, but I haven't seen anything online to support using it...what other ideas can you think of that don't involve expensive investment powders I have to buy online? 

Posted by jtrainer1 2 years ago


Lost Foam?

Hi guys, I've been messing about with lost foam aluminium casting here in the UK. I've tried packing expanded polystyrene, and Jablite but they seem really difficult to get a good finish on the foam patterns. I want to be able to machine them, or use them in a basic foam lathe. I know that in the States they have a denser finer grained insulation material (blue and pink in colour). These both seem to be better for obtaining surface finish. I've tried to Google the stuff over here but it seems to be silly prices. Does anyone have any links to UK sites that sell a similar product? I was wondering if the harder stuff that you saw up and stick between the rafters for loft conversions would work as this seems a much denser fine grain foam to me. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated.

Posted by marshon 8 years ago


coin/penny battery

Can i make a ''coin/penny battery'' with ''Bronze and Aluminium'' alloyed coin????. well my country's currency coins have following Composition: 1: Bronze and Aluminium       1 rs 2: Brass and Aluminium         2 rs 3: Cupro-nickel                      3 rs can i use any of them to make coin/penny battery?????please tell me if any of them will work.....

Posted by usama1994 4 years ago


Painting Aluminium

I'm painting some 1/16" plates of aluminium black. I gave them a wipe down, and used some generic primer and black spray paint. (I originally started off with a paint gun, but it broke). As the plate dries, it starts to crackle in some areas, but not all over. Any ideas what is going on? I've never had this problem painting steel, or wood. Do I need a different type of primer, specifically for aluminium?

Posted by sam 11 years ago


Power from a moving aluminum-part?

Hi I was playing with  some ideas and wonder if it is possible to get power from a moving piece of aluminum. I know, if you tab the alu, you can get the power because to the eddy-currents geenrated if you have a permanent-magnet near... But what if i wanted to get the power NOT from the aluminum, but from the "other" side like the magnet? If i hold a magnet near a moving piece of aluminum, can i get power from the magnet as well or are the eddys only generated in the alu and not in the magnet since it already has its magnetic field? So the basic question is: How to get power with the help of a moving piece of aluminum, but the tab-point in NOT the aluminum but something geometrically separated. Thanks a lot! :)

Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago


Metal warehouse visit

Last weekend my friend Don and I went to ALCO Iron and Metal in San Leandro, CA. Don needed some sheet metal and I will need some metal soon enough and I'd never been to any such place, so I went along to take a look. It was super cool, they had all kinds of metals in all kinds of forms - sheets, rods, tubes, blocks, foil, flats, angle lengths, meshes. They also did a lot of metal recycling and had tons (literally, I'm sure) of metal scrap of various sorts lying around in heaps, and baled up by type. I started out taking photos for reference, but ended up just taking pix of anything that looked interesting or would make a good photo. The recycled metal bales were especially lovely.Here's a few pix to whet your interest, and the full set is on Flickr here: http://flickr.com/photos/mnrsiat/sets/72157605422168005/

Posted by rachel 10 years ago


Thermite questions

I made some Iron oxide from using a car batterie charger and some salty water and i made some aluminium powder from putting aluminium foil in the blender for a while, I mixed it together and i used my blowtorch to ignite it but nothing happened can someone tell me why

Posted by dsl158 5 years ago


Scratch build a clear acrylic and aluminium computer case

Hi All, My current project is building an ATX computer case from scratch, I'm building it from aluminium angles and clear acrylic. Currently I'm writing a blog about the construction process and once I'm finished I'm going to post an instructable. So check out the blog at http://customatx2.blogspot.com.au , feel free to make comments on there and any tips or suggestions are welcome.

Posted by m1234 6 years ago


Removing Broken M2 Tap from Anodised Aluminium 2014.

Hello Everyone,As you might have read, I have a Milled Aluminium 2014 Block which is Anodized with Black color, Today when I was tapping the holes of it, the M2 Tap broke and got stuck inside that hole, there is no portion of it outside the hole, so I can't unscrew it and pull it out.I saw a few videos on youtube on how to use alum water, or electrolysis(with 10% dil H2SO4) to dissolve or chemically remove the Tap bit from the hole, But my question is is it possible that using any of the above options could destroy the anodizing on the job work. and is there any other easy method I can use?Please Note that the tap bit is M2 and There are no tap extraction tools for a bit that small on the internet (or Locally Available in India) but if you find one Please post links for the same. Please Be Positive and make this community a happy place. Thanks.

Posted by _Boltz_ 2 months ago


where to buy: *threaded* aluminium pipe/fittings

Hello everyone! I have been searching the web for a good source of aluminium pipe (between 1" and 2" thick) with threaded endings and matching fittings. Can anyone suggest a good source? Searching the instructables forums I read about www.simplifiedbuilding.com, but they don't seem to have threaded fittings (only of a slip-on, use-a-set-screw kind). Any suggestion greatly appreciated! Happy '09! James

Posted by james.kirin 9 years ago


Polishing small or very detailed metal parts - the easy way ;)

I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)

Posted by Downunder35m 2 months ago


Scrap Metal and Coal/Charcoal

Hey everyone, i was wondering if anyone in the Hollywood-Miramar-Pembroke Pines area of Florida USA has any old scrap iron, steel, charcoal, or coal they do not want and would be kind enough to offer it to me for free or for a reasonable price. I am doing blacksmith work so it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Things wanted: Bolts, car springs, brake drums, any kind of bar (round, flat, square, hexagonal, octagonal, etc.) lump charcoal, any large chunks of steel to be used as anvils, any old blacksmith tools such as hammers, etc.... anything donated is appreciated. Thanks again!

Posted by thoraxe 10 years ago


How to cut precise disk out of aluminium or gfk?

Hi, I'ld like to make a kind of spool. For that I need a two discs (80mm diameter) and a ring. The material is 3mm gfk or alu. By now my idea is to mount a jigsaw upside down and rotate the gfk around its center, so that the saw cuts tangential. Any better ideas are welcome. cheers Michael

Posted by mknuemann 11 years ago


Using Aluminium Cans for A ram Jet Engine Barrel,

If you soaked aluminum from a soda-pop can in vinegar or other acid to remove the paint, would it be possible to smith the metal using a small hammer into a barrel for a small jet engine, The engine I plan will produce thrust and use Butane,

Posted by Steamdnt 10 years ago


Metal Pedal Board

I want to make a aluminium pedal board. Will I have issues with ground, signal etc.?

Posted by Okapi10 5 years ago


lost wax casting

Newkidontheblock. looking for authentic instuctions how to go about making lost wax castings of chess pieces (in aluminium )dozens of them ????

Posted by golodenboy6 10 years ago


Metal Triangle project ideas

I happen to have 106 aluminium right-angle triangles. They measure: 15x20x25mm Any great ideas?

Posted by sdfgeoff 5 years ago


creating a ball mill and making thermite

I have come across a few 'instructables' which show how to create a ball mill. This mainly uses an electric powered screw driver, a plastic bottle, some ball bearings (I will use lead even though steel would suffice) some epox putty and a vice clamp.. However some points of the instructable was unclear. I came across several electric drills, where the button was situated in a place that meant it was not possible to secure to the on position, also they seem to either go to slow or too fast. Finally with the weight of a significant amount of aluminium and lead/steel balls, I found the bottle section weighed too much and caused stress on the drill bit which caused it to dislocate and fall out, or in the second case.. the motor just gave up. My two questions. 1.is there a better instructable which addresses the problem of supporting the plastic bottle . 2. would a mixture of aluminium powder and charcoal (german dark) work better than aluminium powder? would the ratio of dark powder and iron oxide change? i gather that aluminium oxidises, is that bad? i don't really see how it's possible to avoid oxidisation without the charcoal.

Posted by redkoatz 4 years ago


This deserves more views

This project deserves more views.hailtothkngbby has taken a cardboard idea of mine and rendered it in shiny, durable aluminium, as well as adding a couple of refinements.Go, see.

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


Making Potassium Chlorate

Do any of you know if it is possible to convert Aluminium Potassium Sulphate and Ammonium Chloride into Potassium Chlorate? If so please could you tell me how to go about doing it.

Posted by Loosewire; SOE Operative 11 years ago


So anyway, I cracked open an Etch-a-Sketch and got aluminium powder all over my desk. Can anyone help?

When the top half of the case finally snapped off, a cloud of fine aluminium powder was ejected over a large area of my desk. I'd like to clean it up soon, (read: before my Dad gets back), but I can't figure out how to get it off. A light brush from a paper towel smudged it into a nice shiny streak, and blowing doesn't get near enough of the particles off. Would water help or make things worse? Anybody else have experience with this?

Posted by tinglystix 11 years ago


Cobra pistol crossbow, good or bad?

Hey there, I am really keen to buy a pistol crossbow and i was wondering if the Aluminium Cobra pistol crossbow is good? will it stand up to normal use? will it last? etc.

Posted by jackdaun 7 years ago


metal laptop

Just finished "Idoru" by william gibson.The main character has a laptop with a cast aluminium case made from reclaimed soda canswirh semi precious stones as switches and buttons and reclaimed ivory keys. I suppuse its possible to do, but difficult... but wouldnt it be deadly? Anyone ever tried that?

Posted by maninamousesuit 11 years ago


Casting a REALLY complex HOLLOW shape with metal!?

Exactly like casting a 3D print out of metal; I have a airsoft upper receiver which I want to cast out of aluminium cheaply. Made of polymer and quite complex. http://www.evike.com/images/large/Mbody_GP_M4AEGUpper_lg.jpg

Posted by Digital Flame 3 years ago


Trying to seal a system containing ethanol.

I'm putting the pipe system together for my solar thing, which needs to contain hot ethanol, not under significant pressure. What kind of sealant / adhesive can I use that won't dissolve in the ethanol? I'm gluing together mostly plastics like PVC, but also steel and aluminium.

Posted by SolarFlower_org 9 years ago


elictrolisis will make aluminum powder? help please

I have read about disolving zink or magnesium in acid and colecting it on a electrode as a salt threw elictrolisis. would this work with aluminum ? in new zealand it is hard to buy aluminium powder for thurmite so would like to make my own. i have already colected a usable amount of iron oxide from rusty steel using elictrolisis.

Posted by glassspider2142 11 years ago


Touch Screen Control for the car

Hello, Has anyone thought of replacing all analog controls in a car dashboard, e.g AC, fan, stereo, vent, defogger etc and replacing them with a touch screen that integrates into the dashboard (like the expensive cars). As an example I have included two jpg's Here is what is required: Aluminium milling of the housing Touch screen sensor integration AD converters more...

Posted by razausman 5 years ago


electronics remote control

Could anyone suggest how to build an electronic system for using a radio signal to turn on and off another circuit. what i mean is a transmitter with a button you could hold and press a switch and a reciever in the circuit you want to switch on and off which prevents power reaching the circuit unless you are transmitting. i would want to be able to transmit over atleast 20 metres and through thin walls, aluminium foil and clothing. thanks.

Posted by resistanceisfutileiflessthan1ohm 6 years ago


Open Source Robot

Hi all, im working on an open souce robot design and thought you might like to follow along, Once its finished ill post plans and instructions to the site, but if you want a head start had over toXBR-ONLINE to check it out.The idea is to build a low cost chassis with out a brain or other expensive upgrades , so users can add "read hack" their own systems to the body. This is intended to be a multi purpose body shell with construction options ranging from wood and foam to plastic and aluminium.

Posted by sprocket2cog 11 years ago


Old cardboard box wins major "green" prize.

Want to get credit for an idea that is older than you are?Simple - give it a cool name and tie the idea in with trendy green terminology.A cheap solar cooker has won first prize in a contest for green ideas.The Kyoto Box is made from cardboard and can be used for sterilising water or boiling or baking food. It's just a basic solar cooker - cardboard, black paint and aluminium foil - but discussing it in terms of sustainability and carbon credits makes it worth 75,000GBP and potential mass-marketing contracts.(Cynical? Me?)(Story)

Posted by Kiteman 9 years ago


need help with LARP weapon design and construction

Hi crafters.  I'm in need of help with constructing a larp weapon, fighting fan, that could open up with a press of a button or pull of a lever N close itself upon releasing it. could any help me with the design of the mechanics n gear system I could use to make it work? It should not be of electronic nature though. Here I attached a drawing of how the weapon should roughly looks like . i'm thinking of using rounded edge aluminium flat bars(looks like flat metal ruler) as the bone for the 'blades'. Really appreciate the help.

Posted by meowgod 3 years ago


Update on the layered metal weapons/props

Hello to everyone who took the time to read this update/list. So I have not forgotten about my promise to upload the Solidworks files and cutting plans. However that will be taking a backseat to finals until summer break. I will however go ahead and list off the items finished, in progress, on hold, or currently only in Solidworks form. Finished -6in Axe: 3lb head on an oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -3in Tomahawk/Axe: 1.25lb head on a para cord wrapped 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -27in BoneSplitter: 3.2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in BoneCracker: 2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in All steel BoneCracker: 3.5lb steel reinforced steel construction. More square handle and better center of balance than previous version In progress -10in Bearded Axe: 3.25lb head. To be mounted on oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar handles 18in, and 30in long. -10in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have bevels, and fullers ground plus handle and guard mounted. -8in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have concave edges, bevels, and fullers ground plus and guard mounted. On hold -14in Blade tester: Simple test bed modeled after BoneSplitter to test viability of various band saw blades(Metal and Wood cutting) for use as cutting edge for mild steel blade carriers. On hold due to the band saw blades being too hard to drill through. Only existing as Solidworks files --27in Revised BoneSplitter: 4.5lb Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Better center of mass and more square handle than MY           previous version. --37in blade Bastard sword: Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Should be very close in terms of center of balance and stiffness when compared to its hardened steel companions.  --20in blade Stacked steel Gladius: Twin riveted steel support plates with detoothed metal cutting bands saw blade used for striking edges.  --blade Hispaniensis Gladius: Single piece of metal for the blade. --blade Cinquedea: Single piece of metal for blade. Multi fuller blade. --8in blade Pugio curved: Same as other 8in Pugio except for the convex curved dagger tip --14in blade Spear from Fullmetal Alchemist: May upload the variant of this in which the "wings" are separate pieces of metal. --3.25in square Warhammer: 8.5lb head Assembled from 13 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --5.25 square Warhammer: 16.25lb head Assembled from 21 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --Straight edged War Axe: 7lb head Inspired by Ironclad Industries' Riftclaw. Made from 7 1/4in steel plates pinned together. I am aware that the riveted and pinned construction of these items makes them inherently less durable and less corrosion resistant than single piece construction. However I am a college student who is working with mostly scraps and whatever has to be purchased. Since mild steel thick enough to carve the Warhammers or War Axe is not common scrap material around the college's machine shop the only way to economically create them is to use stacked plate construction. As for the BoneSplitter, BoneCracker, and Bastard sword the stacked plate construction is used to both reduce the weight of the item and stiffen it at the same time.  

Posted by tytiger33 3 years ago


Foldable floating house for two

Hello everyone. I have plans for foldable and floating house fit for 2 people with WC, 2 beds, 2 fishing chairs with tables and maybe a bbq :) I dont have the money to build it but its a dream of mine. I'll be happy if someone is interested and actually build this thing. when folded its 250sm / 150sm / 50 sm h. For the materials i can use steinless steal squares for base, old inner tires for support, light aluminium rods for the roof, some watter resistent fabric for the walls and some custom made beds and tables. I'm working on pictures with some lame architecture program and i'm posting them as soon as i can. I also have schematics of the joints and locking systems ... well if anyone is interested let me know

Posted by WishKeeper 4 years ago


Jon Boat hand cart

Hello all, it's been a long time since I've posted anything here.  I look at the site at least once a day though, just to see whats new. Anyhow, what I have is a 12 ft john boat that needs some sort of wheel attachment so that I can pull it through the woods between ponds with relative ease. What I have is a little bit of aluminium pipe and some wheelchair parts, as well as various nuts and bolts.  I need a solution that involves no welding or brazing ( i think thats what its called ).  I can cut/drill/bolt all day, but thats about it.  Ive got a couple pics of what i have to work with.  Any ideas would be great.

Posted by kithso 4 years ago