How can i power a motor like this (with 3 pins) just to max speed? it's for a propeller clock. thanks
Posted by bfernandes1 4 years ago
Hello! I salvaged these motors from one old Photocopier and i honestly dont know how to use them. Actually, my knowleadge about motors (and electronics in general) is really limited, my last achivement was building my own 3d printer from scrap materials and by doing that I learned a lot about arduino, NEMA stepper motors and associated drivers, all thanks to the awesome people who shares knoledge in this and other websites, but i am still struggling with electronics in general. So now, my question is... what can i do with these motors? Is there a way to control them with Arduino? Any kind of imput would be appreciated. I found the datasheets online but i really dont know what to do with a datasheet... Thanks in advance and sorry if my english is a bit weird, it's not my native languaje!
Posted by Goth.Cat 3 years ago
I have a few fans around from computers. Seems that 3 wires is pretty common for these. I wasn't sure which was what, so, I figured "nothin to lose" and hooked up the right voltage across 2 wires. My guess was right. It ran. But, having 1 out of 9 fanblades busted off, it shook a bit. So, I busted off 2 more blades to balance it. But now, even connecting it the same way, it doesn't run. So, how should a 3 wire brushless motor fan be wired?
Posted by Toga_Dan 4 years ago
Hello, I'm making researches about electric motors, I know very little about them and it seems to be a vast world. I don't have any detailled project yet, but I'd like to make a small robot that would be capable to move, that implies using electric motors. Forums have many useful data about them, but what it lacks is precise user reviews: what type of motor would you use the most, and why? Is it simpler to use servomotors over DC, or brushless? Prics must be a criteria of choice, but can I found cheap motors with good performance? Thank you very much for your help
Posted by armandbon 1 year ago
Concept : design onboard lipoly charger system to extend flight time on giant scale electric plane. 1) if this is even a worth while project, the trade off of course is weight / power , can enough be created from a micro generator to make a differance, or would additionals 6 cell lipoy be more sensible , configuration = OS max 40 nitro motor / brushless 400 kv outrunner / ac / dc conversion rectifier / dc voltage regulator / 12v dc lipoly balance charger to main bank of lipoly batteries / motors 2) I don't know how to build the rectifier bridge, so I would need some direction Any suggestions or thoughts on this project are appreciated. Jeff
Posted by JeffR135 1 year ago
Hi i'm new to rc planes and drones so im making a model of v22 osprey tilt rotor aircraft i'm using the following components Arduino Mega 2x 2217/6 2300 kv brushless motor 6x micro servo for surface area control 2.4 ghz tx/rx fsct6b 6dof for stabilization i need help in controlling the bldc motors and servo by arduino mega using the 2.4 ghz tx/rx
Posted by Daveluv1 3 years ago
Hello every one, I need to know if its possible to communicate between an ESC and an arduino. I would like to use a tilt sensor measured by the arduino to control a brush-less motor through an ESC. I'm not sure if this is possible but if so what would be a good way to go about doing it? Thanks for any help
Posted by Daniel Quintana 2 years ago
Using the same concept as diesel trains. As they drive / pull on electric. The drive train is actually electric . The noise we hear are the generators charging the power banks. . Electric are far more efficient than diesel or gas engine direct to the drive train. That being said. How can we set up micro scale generator on board 1/3 scale electric rc airplane. concept : connect 40 size os max rc nitro engine direct to 700 kv E. out runner shaft , rectifier bridge / 12 volt SMART lipoly charger, all this to enhance primary lipoy bank on large scale electric rc planes. ( increase flight time dramatically) sounds stupid I guess, but the concept apparently works in real world cargo trains. Can anyone help wth the system set up of rectifier bridge components to give this a shot ? I have no electrical expertise. Thanks Jeff
Posted by JeffR135 1 year ago
Hi, I am looking to make a quadcopter as my university project and I kinda run in to some problems deciding which motor I need to choose. I was thinking to choose brushless motors as they are more efficient and they give more RPM. HOwever, my professor says that there's no point using brushless/stepper motors as u can get the same RPMs using brushed motors and its the same thing. Hence, can anyone please guide me which motor is best to use and why should I use brushed or brushless motors. I shall be very glad if someone guide me through it. Thank you :)
Posted by Bam Boy 5 years ago
I am in the materials-gathering phase of a planned project to build a handheld stabilizer system for use with my dSLR camera when I shoot video (for an example of what that kind of is and does, look http://freeflysystems.com/products/movi/m10/). I have a number of older or decommissioned hard drives and optical drives laying around and wondered if I couldn't repurpose the motors from them to use as the axis motors for my stabilizer. The SimpleBGC board from Alexmos is built to drive brushless DC motors such as the spindle motors found in hard drives. My questions would be if this would work and whether they would be "strong" enough to turn and hold the camera carriage according to the controller's signals.
Posted by brian.ragle.1 3 years ago
Hi ! I was wondering, I saw some projects using 2,5" Hard drive brushless motors but I don't get exactly how do we manage to take them off their casing ? They seem strongly fixed and I don't see any screws holding them... Can someone help me on this ?
Posted by speakingcake 3 years ago
Hi everyone! I have a 5v DC (0,15A, 50mm x 15mm) computer brushless fan that I want to power with a battery pack (4x AA rechargeables= 4,8v) or the MightyMinty Boost. This small blower is meant to be a part of a woodgas stove, and will bring air to the fire through a small duct. I'm looking for a circuit that would allow me to control the speed of the fan and the airflow. Kinda like a dimmer switch. Is there a readily available switch or devices that I could plug between the batteries and the fan? I guess the RC guys out there know a few thing about variable speed controller. I'm a newbie at this; I don't what to build a circuit from scratch, unless it's really simple. Thanks
Posted by jemor143 7 years ago
If you have been flying your RC planes a lot and have found them getting a bit boring, go brushless and get lithium polymer cells. brushless motors are lighter and twice as powerful as brushed. lithium polymer batteries hold the most electricity to weight ratio compared to standard Nicd and Nmh. Dont believe me look at your cell phone open the battery hatch and take out battery its probably a Lithium polymer or lithium ion notice how light it is and small it is now look at the volts/ mAH pretty amazing hu? Got a laptop it probably got a lipo to. you want to make the switch but dont know what motor, battery, ESC (ESC-electronic speed control) to get, just ask and ill give you a hand! i will need to know the motor and battery that came with the plane/ or that u are using. Are you flying glow (gas powered) and wana go electric? i can help u out their too! Their are 2 kinds of brushless motors outrunner and inrunner whats the difference? well outrunners spin slower with more power so it acts like it has a gear box (this eliminates the need for a gear box reducing weight and noise) it also has a different design (look at pics). inrunners have a brushed appearance but their much lighter and more powerful u might need a gear box through. update 2/20/08 new image added (not all comment boxes are working)
Posted by i make shooting things 11 years ago
So... before I start... I am not a physicist, nor am I an electrical engineer. Hopefully someone within one of those (or both) professions will chime in and enrich this discussion. That said... I'm going to be using leyman's terms. This thread is specifically meant to explain how a brushless DC electric motor exerts a force, and how that force is used to generate work. To start off, I'd Like to explain the components which comprise a brushless DC motor: First... You have an axil. The axil's purpose is to spin. Next you have natural magnets, or solid state magnet; I use the terms somewhat incorrectly, since a natural magnet refers specifically to nickel or ferrous base magnets, but there exist a large variety of compounds and composites that exhibit the ability to produce magnetic fields. In practice you have many in a motor, but for our purposes... we can pretend we have one. The natural magnet's job is exert a magnetic field while attached to the axil. After that we have an electrical coil. Once again, in Brushless DC motors, we have many of these, but for our purposes we'll use 3. The electrical coil's job is to produce a magnetic field which can move in a circle. Finally we have the engine housing. The purpose of the engine housing is to hold everything together. Note: I'm intentionally leaving out the computer control mechanism. there are alot of great instructables on microcontrollers. Most Brushless DC motors requrie one to work since there is no mechanical timing device, as there is in a brushed engine. So... how does this fit together? In this setup the natural magnet produces a force when next to the electrical coil (This coil is also known as an electromagnet). This is because the charge of the coil is opposite to the charge of the natural magnet. Once the Natural magnet and the electromagnetic coil align with each other, the first coil shuts off and the second turns on. Once again the natural magnet is drawn towards the magnetic pole. This process repeats until the natural magnet has spun in a circle (note: usually you want it to continue to spin beyond a single revolution.) That's the basic (very basic) idea behind a Brushless DC Motor.
Posted by Qcks 10 years ago
Hi, I am a beginner to build a quadcopter. so please help me in selecting ESCs , lipo Battery and Motor to make my own. I details of the parts are listed below : Brushless Motor : Brand: Racerstar Item name: BR2205 2600KV Brushless Motor RPM/V: 2600KV Height: 31.5mm Width: 27.9mm Shaft diameter: M5 Motor mount hole size: M3 Weight: 28 grams Voltage: 2-4S Battery: 2-4S lipo battery Max.current: 23.2A Max.power: 710W Internal resistance: Ω Usage: for 250 260 280 Multirotor Frame Kit Lipo Battery : Brand : Lion power Configuration : 3S 11.1v Maximum continuous discharge rate : 30C Capacity : 4200MAH ESC : Sustaining Input Voltage: 6-12V BEC Output Current: 5V/3A Continuous Output Current: 30A Max Current: 35A/12s I just tested a brushless motor mentioned above with the esc and battery while the motor is running for about 10 seconds the esc is burnt.So is to possible to build a quadcopter with the parts listed above please help. Thank You
Posted by rsudhar00123 1 year ago
for all the 16 followers i have. if u really liked my instructables. fine. but im not really into knex anymore. no im never getting ride of my knex because when i have kids ill give it to them. the reason im telling u this is because i have been working on 2 guns for the last year and still havent completed them. the reason why i haven't been on insturctables in a SUPER long time is because my hobby is rc cars. ones that go 45 mph. 1/8th scale of a real car. super big bore shockes. two batteries. also, if u wanna get into this hobby, you can message me on youtube. (if u have a youtube account) or here on instructables. if u still wanna follow me, u can go to my youtube channel at http://www.youtube.com/user/puffmonster689?feature=mhee
Posted by mberg 6 years ago
Hey everyone, I need some help for my project paper. I want to build a self-balancing "one wheel". But I dont know where I can buy a wheel hub motor. I searched on Alibaba and found some fitting ones. A 800W 48V DC Brushless (Wheel Hub-) Motor. But i don´t know which speed motor control is the best for this type of motor. I want to use an arduino uno ! Can someone please Help me finding a motor control ? Thanks a lot :) PS: Sorry for my bad english :) I am german
Posted by Lucafaeth 2 years ago
I've been doing research into some home brewed add-on people have made for Arduino. I was surprised to find that there are a ton of custom shields that people have developed and sell right now (check this out: http://shieldlist.org/). This gave me some ideas for developing products myself. I'm trying to gauge what people are looking for in new Arduino product. If you could take a really quick survey that I designed to test the market, I'd really appreciate it? Here is a link to it: https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/PTSDD8Z Please let me know what you guys think would make great products for Arduino! On a related point, I was wondering about the feasibility of a brushless motor shield. I am working on an Arduino based dual rotor mulicopter with some friends (here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC566tCzMbp-S5ThKuPQO_6g. We aren't too far in yet). I think for others that make "Arducopter", it would be nice to do away with external ESCs for controlling brushless motors. I think it would be far more convenient to have a shield that acts as a substitute for ESCs and also act as a power distribution platform for on board components. Is it dangerous to be running that much current on a PCB on top of an Arduino? Would it be wise to connect a 3S LiPo in parallel with the shield ESC and an Arduino, or could that damage my Arduino? Thanks in advice for the help!
Posted by Filleted 4 years ago
I am building a custom watercooling system in a confined space, with the pump motor close to the processor. for the pump, I intend to use a thin centrifugal pump with a centeral brushless motor based around a re-wound cd drive stator, but don't know what the power required to move enough water is, especially with small bore pipe (2 X 1/4" also, when positioning the pump, how far away should it be from the main board to avoid causing interference, as the pump is essentially a large spinning magnet with several amps going to it. I'm guessing the motor should be as far away as possible, as well as the supply cables. thanks for the help.
Posted by The Skinnerz 7 years ago
Ok so which is better the 1/16 e-revo or the 1/16 slash. It would be used for stunts speed and wheelies definately. So what do you guys think im leaning towards the 1/16 e-revo.And i only want answers from those of you who actually have them not like oh my friend has one and its great only want straight answers not like well this ones good for this and that ones good for that just tell me what car is better.BTW its going to be brushless no matter what. Also there is a rumor going arout that the e-revo includes a battery is that true or what
Posted by silentassasin21 9 years ago
Hi there, I would like to know more about how LDR's work, its quite difficult to source 3 volt relays in South Africa, so I had an Epiphany, why not use 2x LDR 1x for Forward and 1x for Reverse on an RC car, I don't know much about how responsive the solution is, how many seconds or milliseconds delay there is? Does it work like a switch? would it be a viable option on an RC car? I'm sure this could apply to little 3 volt RC cars upwards, I know brushless is the way to go, however this would indeed be a great learning experience. kindest Regards, Lee Reddy.
Posted by Leereddy1818 1 year ago
I just received a 48 ounce rc plane from my grandfather and I need some help from you all. I need to convert it to electric powered from gas and I dont know what parts I need. (I do know that I need a motor, (I have one picked out) speed control, servos, a receiver, a transmitter, and a battery pack (lipo) I need to know what will work with each other that wont kill my wallet. The motor I picked out is a HXT 35-42A 1450kv Brushless Outrunner (Eq: 2820). So all the help I can get would be appreciated. See the photos for more info.
Posted by Pat Sowers 10 years ago
I have a question for everybody out there. It has been a very long time since I did this type of electrical design work, and for the life of me I can’t remember the principals. I know there are many different ways to generate electricity by using mechanical motion, and converting a motor into a dynamo is very easy. What I am trying to do is to make a brushless dynamo. I have taken my inspiration from a cheap hand cranked torch, and intend to improve on it a lot. In this torch it has a coil which has a flat disk magnet sitting above it. The magnet is spun creating the charge in the coil and is used by the LED's in the torch. What I want to know is how specifically the voltage (potential difference) is created in the coil. My experience of stationary coils is where the magnet is rotated inside the coil. Could someone please explain it to me? Many thanks.
Posted by Batdragon 6 years ago
This is my first time on the site and first time with trying to build a rc anything. My mind is so scrambled due to constant searching online and I still don't know where to start. First, I thought of building a brushless motor. Seeing some online looks awesome. Just some wire, rod and a magnet to a battery. But I do not know the size of battery nor how the size of the wire will change my project. Second, it would be fun to have my PS2 controller, control the heli or plane I choose to build. Is this possible. Third, can I use a motor from a cheap heli in a plane and have control over the speed? Lastly for now, is there a way to figure what motor I need if I was going to build a slow flyer vs a outdoor micro flyer? I have been looking at weight mostly and don't know if I need to be that concerned. Please help if you dare to take me on as a challenge case.
Posted by Todd M 5 years ago
Hi! I need a hand with getting my head around how RC plane motors are rated. I am looking at a 4000kv motor. is that 4000RPM Per volt from zero or from a nominal 6v starting voltage? This is for a personal transport project in the vein of this one - http://hacknmod.com/hack/make-diy-electric-bicycle/ That motor looks like it is very high on the wattage front! I have found several cheap motors and controllers on ebay that I think may be suitable http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brushless-Motor-450-10-04-Trex-450SE-V2-35A-ESC-/320520418857?cmd=ViewItem&pt;=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash;=item4aa0817629 do you think that they would be able to do something similar (upto 25mph), providing that the vehicle DOESN'T have to be started from standing? A full instructable for a personal ride project is hanging on this info... Any help is greatfully received!
Posted by undescriptive 8 years ago
Hey everyone.... :) I'm organising a camp to encourage high school students to take up STEM courses..... and I'd like to have them build their own RC quadcopters. I want the course to have a minimal fee.... so the quad should be INSANELY CHEAP. The quad should be able to do just one thing:FLY. Also, durability is not an issue.... just one or two flights should be sufficient. 1)Can someone please suggest a design using brushed instead of brushless motors? (Simply because they're cheaper) 2)If there's any way I can build a flight controller using off-the-shelf components.... please share your ideas.. 3)I have no idea about how to make the remote control/ RF transmitter....... is it the same as that of an RC toy car remote control? 4)I've come across some lovely designs where the frame is made out of paper or cardboard.... so that's not an issue. Help in any form is welcome.... I'd love to hear from y'all.... Thanks in advance...:)
Posted by afshaanmaz 4 years ago
Greetings, I'm looking for a while now but no solution, so wanted to post this question in here. Got a e-bike that can do 90km/u but I need to keep it 45km/u for road legality. But on private property on my job and stuff, don't need the 45km/u so I wish without to connect the controller to my laptop and stuff to make it go faster and slower, twice a day, it would be handy I could let it go with a simple push of a button go slow/fast. It's about this controller: http://kellycontroller.com/keb72601x24v-72v280a6kw-bike-brushless-controller-regen-p-279.html There is software for to download: http://kellycontroller.com/mot/downloads/Kelly%20KBL%20and%20KEB%20User%20Program%20Release%20Setup%20v3.3.zip Manual aswell: http://kellycontroller.com/KEBhelp.php Also, there is a configurable boost switch if I wanted, so maybe through that ... Or an economy function... If only that could be programmed, so I can set my engine power to 100% and the economy to what ever makes it run legal speed. Hope I gave some info, to make things up for what I ment ...
Posted by iteck 5 years ago
I am currently working on the design of an impeller driven lifting device utilising the Coanda effect. My 3D printer is of course a great help here but only useful to test the vacuum cleaner assembly that I salvaged for the motor and impeller part. So far it is just I am interesting to see myself instead of reading it on the net but I was wondering if any RC model makers out here would be interested too? I have no clue about the available brushless motors and controllers or how much extra weight for electronics, batteries and so on but could provide the 3D files and design tips if anyone would dare to create a working RC model. Unlike all the designs on Youtube no propeller is used for the lift! Those designs might still use the Coanda effect, or better adjust it's airflow, for the steering but the actual lift comes from a prop. An impeller as used in vacuum cleaner does not provide lift and is more the "real deal". The last real world project that I know of was the Avrocar that was tested during the cold war but never made it into production. Just though it might be an interesting project to build your own "flying saucer" :)
Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago
(a few tiny ideas) Basically a toy chainsaw that can cut through paper. Using hobby-R/C-like parts such as those tiny light motors would be a start. Reduced size, like a cellphone at most, mountable on a figurine soldier would be great. The miniature mortar should throw marbles on "mortar trajectories", you should be able to set the angle of the launch and (optionally) somehow the speed, though this wouldn't be necessary if the angle part is done well and the power is relatively constant at all shots. For ease it should be built only for angles above 45 degrees and the angle slider (or whatever the solution) should have marks (ticks) such that a user can remember and even create tables if he so wishes, in his war against coffee cups. Simplest solutions of "powering" would be rubber bands or coils from broken toys. A ping pong blower would be a tiny but strong fan (brushless outrunner motor) that keeps a ping pong ball "levitating" in mid-air straight up, but most excitingly even blown under an angle too. This wouldn't be a problem (physics takes care of it alone) just that the mount of the fan (ducted or not) should be operated and tilted as needed. This "levitron" would be a nice display on the desk running as long there's juice in the battery or else. Sorry if I'm not posting in the right place, these are just some ideas i'd love to build but i'm too clumsy and lazy :( Though my source of inspiration is the variety of USB gadgets commercially available, i'd like these to be more "free" and simpler if possible.
Posted by screwgravity 10 years ago
Landwheel drive is the newest drive system for skateboards that can be mounted under any deck. Just unscrew your rear truck and replace it with the landwheel Drive . Specification of Landwheel Skateboard Drive: Model Landwheel Drive( Dual Brushless in-wheel motors) Distance 20km Power 2 X 1100W Max load: 120kg Max Grade 20% Waterproof Water and dust proof (IP65) Frame Material Aluminum alloy + ABS Battery Li-Poly batteries Range 12-15km Weight 3.2kg (Include Battery) Size: 313 x 174 x 41 mm Certificate CE, FCC, RoHs, MSDS, UN38.3 Details of electric skateboard drive : 1. The Motors Two in-wheel motors Power 2* 1100w Topspeed 35km/h Maximum Grade 20% Water and dust proof (IP65) Freewheeling when you push Exchangeable wheels 2.The Frame Solid magnesium single frame Click-in mechanism for the battery 3. The Battery Pack Range 12-15km Charge 2-4hours Weight 700g Energy 94.08Wh Capacity 3200mah Swappable via click-in mechanism Certified for airtravel Water and dust proof (IP54) 4. The Remote One button device Switch between 2 riding modes LED displaying state of charge Rubber coated for better grip Safety wrist strap
Posted by Hollie hua 1 year ago
One of the Squid Labs spin-out companies is hiring! Come work with us in the control tower!The technology that this spin-out is developing is not yet public, so in the job description below, it is simply referred to as "Squid Labs." The job will require full-time attention to the spin-out, and so while you will technically be at Squid Labs, the job is not with Squid Labs. Hopefully, I've made that perfectly muddy. If you can understand that (and make it clear that you understand it in your cover letter!) and have the required qualifications, you're probably a good fit. Electrical EngineerSquid Labs is a rapidly growing Bay Area start-up that aims to revolutionizerenewable energy generation. Squid Labs is engaged in a research anddevelopment effort to produce novel systems for both centralized anddistributed energy generation systems. Squid Labs is seeking a talented andmotivated power electronics engineer. The ideal candidate will haveextensive experience with motor controller development (AC induction andPM, three phase brushless motors) and the associated power electronicssystems combined with an inventive resourcefulness to quickly executeprototype solutions in the field. Further, this candidate would be familiarwith the startup environment and the associated hours, deadlines and high-energy culture that go with launching innovative new products.The Power Electronics Engineer will be responsible for:- Self-directed research and cooperating with an interdisciplinary team- Rapidly developing and building solutions to complex high powerproblems- Development of analytical models to make decisions on specific andglobal aspects of system architectureThe candidate should have the following qualifications:- PhD or equivalent in Electrical Engineering- 5+ years of experience in analogue/digital/power electronics o standalone and grid-connected power electronics o motor control for motion and generation o single-board computer development for control o digital/analogue signal conditioning o sensor and actuator development and integration- Experience with data analysis and model verification- Understanding of control theory for SISO and MIMO systems- Appreciation for the natural environment and a strong desire to workon renewable energy technologyPlease send resumes to email@example.com
Posted by ewilhelm 11 years ago
I would like to help people start building and flying model aircraft! I started flying unpowered gliders with my dad at the age of 5 by the age of 8 I could do figure 8ts with the same model of unpowed glider, then I moved to my own plane a wingo which is a great durable slow park flyer, the kit comes with every thing you need except for a controller, servos and glue. I put a brushless motor and a lipo battery with this setup I could fly strait up until you could barely see the plane (about a mile high). After that I got my first 3d trainer a ucando which is also durable and constructed with hot glue!!! So far I have crashed into a blueberry bush and torn wings to pieces, but I am in the process of gluing back together.I prefer electric models over gas or glow models; their cheaper, quieter, smaller and more durable. Here is a great place to find beginner and advanced electric planes. Their are also different types of kits, ARFs (Almost Ready to Fly) are my favorite type of plane they include most of what you need for the plane inside the box, most only take 2-6 hours to complete and dry. Much easier for beginners to build and not mess up. Normal kits have only parts and dont usually include motors batteries or any thing else, they can take weeks to build but can be much cheaper. And theirs a third RTF (Ready To Fly) more expensive than ARFs but most of the time all you have to do is charge the batteries! You should visit your local hobby store to find out more about the local clubs and flying fields it is illegal to fly some sized planes in naborhoods I am not familiar with all the laws but I only fly at flyingfeilds. A plane like the warp would probly be fine to fly in your back yard or naborhood field. You should know that making model Rc planes can be addictive, expensive, and when you crash and destroy what you have been working on for a month extremely frustrating.Join the AMA and your local flying club, model aviation is a great way to make friends and meet new people, oh and its fun! For all ages!horizon hobby is a group of hobby stores. hobby store locatorIf you have any Q's please ask!Id also like to start a list of good trainers the yard stick is not as durable as the wingo but can be found every werethe wingo a great beginer ucando a 3D trainer (get a wingo first)
Posted by i make shooting things 11 years ago
Hi folks. I have a fairly old but still quite serviceable Thompson Euro Classic electric bike that runs on a 36v lead acid electric battery pack with a brushless motor. I've just been offered a 36v lithium ion bike battery that I would love to use but I'm not too sure if it would be the right choice, my main reason for the change is simply weight consideration, the current battery pack comprises of three 12v batteries and weighs in at a hefty 28lb the replacement weighs a little under 4lb, this would very obviously make quite a difference in the bikes 87lb overall weight. However weight isn't the only consideration, I would like to extend the range of my bike and with a little work and some suitable wiring and a couple of switches I could quite easily use the battery as a second power source for longer rides, I fitted a large plastic tool box onto a rear carrier when I first bought the bike which would easily accommodate the battery or I could possibly even add an external carrier for it behind the seat, the current battery is good for around fifteen to twenty miles depending on how many hills I hit & how much I feel like pedalling, I hoping that an additional battery would double the range meaning I could rely on it to visit nearby towns without having to worry about finding somewhere I can give the battery a booster charge. My main worry is about damage to the motor, I know very little about electric bike motors and having read so many stories about these batteries suffering from overheating problems and even catching fire I am more than a little concerned I could damage to my only transport, I usually ride motorcycles but thanks to a couple of health issues I'm currently grounded so apart from walking which can be pretty limiting this bike is my only way to get around without spending a fortune on public transport I'm looking for advice from people who know about electric bikes and their motors who could give me some simple advice in layman's terms on how to proceed, please don't blind me with all sorts of technical jargon as it really wouldn't help, I'm not stupid it just isn't my field of expertise. Thanks in advance for your help. NG.
Posted by Nostalgic Guy 2 years ago
Hi Everyone I have a problem with a project I started to overcome my unique disability , this project was to basically install low powered electric motor on a kneewalker so I could get assistance / go off-road , yet still use it manually if need be i.e. to get some exercise or more importantly if battery dies ( something I cant do with mobility scooter or wheelchair ) The problem however is I cant do this myself due my disability ( weld it , use power tools etc ) so I had this person i meet on a another forum who agreed to help me - but unfortunately he hasnt - so instead I am trying to find a replacement for him or any one that is willing to help. The motor itself ( Motor - MW12B GoldenMotor )seems to work fine using a Lyens controller , but unfortunately there is no direct link to the hub motor whose details are below. Model: MW12B -- 12" Motor Wheel Voltage:36V (Brushless) Power Rate:250W Weight: 4.8Kgs You will have to got to the gm website on the link above click on hub motors and scroll down to find more details , including links to 3d drawings . You can see the motor itself working in following videos that were posted by the person who still has it video1 video2 video3 Due to the size difference of the wheel ( 16" compared to the front 9" using MTB tires ) amongst other things, we were trying to find a way to mount it that he suggested would probably involve having to weld on some strong rear forks from a bike or perhaps something else. Ive included the whole assessment / plan we did based on our mutual ideas and discussions below for reference, but Im afraid thats pretty much it , as I dont have any of the parts here for reference or than the basic facts . If any ones interested in helping , or going me any advice Id be grateful for your suggestions , if any ones wants to offer their services at a price just send me a pm and we discuss things further. thanks for listening , heres the assessment / plan I mentioned.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I need to figure out a rough plan for the wheel mounting, plus brake mounting. We need to get disc and caliper. We need to figure out what front wheels, how to mount them, and how to fix the sloppy steering. In order to go see a welder we need to know where to weld the dropouts, the caliper mounts, and what, if any welding to do at the front end. Assessment Frame - good, solid, heavy. bulletproof. Wheels - strong, solid, better made with bearings etc better than expected. but hard tires are not nice, and wheels are a little too thin and too small. I expect its easy to get hung up on small obstacles. brakes - crap. none existent basically. Just a bit of metal pushing on the tyre. Also the lever is either crap or a bit broken. need to inspect it. steering - not very good but not crap. whole linkgae is a bit loose and wobbly, just held together by a few bolts. this means it has a fair bit of play in the steering. The whole thing with the bolts is that they have to be a bit loose otherwise the steering won't move. not a very good design. but it will do. handlebars/stem/steerer - designed to be collapsible easily, which is good, but there is also excessive play in this as well. it will do but its not great. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Thoughts.... Because there is four wheels, I found that on uneven floors (just around the front room the floorboards were uneven enough) one wheel is often off the ground a tiny bit. This would be solved by having 3 wheels or tyres with a bit of give in them. I would not want to keep any of the wheels. I would want to replace the front wheels with something a bit wider softer and grippier. like scooter wheels or MTB wheels. Brakes - the center of gravity is quite far forward. if it had brakes only on the front then i feel like it might tip over. then again, with the weight of the frame, the motor, batteries and person, maybe not. I will do some testing. Motors - Golden has the 8" single sided solid tyre motors that would be the easiest conversion, but I don't like the solid tyres and I don't like having 2 wheels at the back. I already ran into my foot. There is also the 8" double sided solid tire. This is not so easy either because it is the same size as the existing wheels therefore the axle would want to go exactly where the existing axles join. Could be done with cutting and welding but would be a pain, plus you still have the solid tire etc. I held up a 12" dinner plate and I reckon it would not look so bad actually. I will take some pics tomorrow. It looks like we would need to cut off a bit of the back section and weld on some dropouts, a bit higher up and further in than the existing axle mounts.. It looks like it will fit under the knee platform ok as well. Controller - because we may well end up with a motor that is not exactly right for the job, I think its all the more important we get a controller with some intelligence. Something programmable where we can set a low voltage, top speed etc. This leads us back to the GM controller, Lyens mini monster, or......I just thought, hmmm the kelly controllers are programmable - well they do a little controller that might be up for the job as well. In fact it looks the most programmable one so far. It is the mini one next to the coke can here: Hub & Wheel Motor Controller | EV Parts They have one that does 12-24v for $79 or $99 depending on max amps. You can get it waterproof for an extra $19 http://kellycontroller.com/kbs2405120a1 ... p-499.html It is fully programmable, see the software screenshots and manual here: Kelly KBS controllers online demo/help-Kelly Controls, LLC http://kellycontroller.com/mot/download ... Manual.pdf You need a serial port on your computer to program it, if you don't have one you need a serial to USB converter. They sell one for $29. Kelly are good controllers. I never thought of them until just now - I usually associate them with high power controllers for cars and motorbikes. When I used to work at Sevcon (who make argubaly the best...and most expensive...controllers you can get.)....kelly was one of the few competitors we kept an eye on. If you look at the setup software, you can fine tune min throttle, max throttle, max amps, max speed, all kinds of things. It will be just the ticket for fine tuning. --------------------------------------------------------------------- So........... This would be my personal plan right now - Electronics: $115 Motor - MW12B (GM) $98 kelly controller waterproofed $29 Serial RS232 to USB converter (from kelly) $20 throttle (max) $20 ebrake lever (max) $50 wiring, connectors, etc -------- $332 Frame / Fabrication: $50 old steel bike to steal dropouts off (maximum, probably less from craigslist or a garage sale) $150 to pay someone to weld the dropouts on and maybe brake caliper mounts plus machine front wheel mounts if necessary for new wheels (maximum) $50 (max) 2 front wheels MTB or scooter 8 inch with pneumatic tyres. $30 (max) new axles, bolts, washers etc $30 box for battery plus mounting bolts etc $50 (max) for respray or powdercoat frame (will be messy after welding. something to put the battery in ----------------------- $360 Brakes $20 (max) brake disk for rear plus screw on adapter for rear hub Brake discs $40 (max) brake caliper (cable ok, hydraulic not needed) $50 bolt on brake caliper mount (seen them somewhere but can't find right now) price is a guess. --------------------------- $110 Battery depends. I am clueless as to the requirements of this system. I can test with my own batteries once it is setup. Then we will know, but at a minimum you will be talking about 18 or 24v 10 amp hour. That is : $199 from ping
Posted by hele 6 years ago