Can I filter out the mineral oil? Could this be useful for anything, or should I just throw away this bucket of slop?
Posted by Lithium Rain 10 years ago
Can I filter out the mineral oil? Could this be useful for anything, or should I just throw away this bucket of slop?
Posted by Lithium Rain 10 years ago
Hey all, i wanted everyone's thought on submerging my xbox 360 in mineral oil, im thinking of build an acrylic case for it. ( too keep it roughly the same size). i know it will work forsure i just want to know if im going to get better results with oil rather than air. and should the xbox be on stand-off in the case for flow under the mobo? could silicon hold the whole case together with about 3-4 liters of oil ( maybe less) mounting the dvd and harddrive on top outside the case? and also sealing the top of the case? (i still want to be able to get in it after obviouly)
Posted by IIwootII 7 years ago
Well, I seen the instructable to submerge a PC motherboard in non-conductive mineral oil to cool it and brainstormed that this could be the perfect fix for my RROD problem with a early model Elite. I have drawn up plans and already found a few problems and would like some input on them. I do not expect a expert answer but I'm sure there are people out there that can make a far better assessment on this than I. 1.) Will the oil conduct and move enough heat to be more effective than fans? 2.) The case I have designed requires roughly 2.8-3.0 Gal of mineral oil and if i was to consider circulating it through a radiator, what would an appropriate pump size be? ( gallons or liters per min) 3.) Also I would plan on using only wireless controllers so is there a way to solder some leads onto the sync button and maybe to an external momentary switch so I would not need access to the MB everytime we wanted to add another player? Thank you for any help you can provide on any of these issues. Regardless I will begin work on it tomorrow as a experiment and to challenge myself. I will be making an instructable on this when it is done. And many thanks to the original author that inspired me to take it a step further. https://www.instructables.com/id/Mineral-Oil-Submerged-PC/
Posted by jf78 8 years ago
A report in Science Magazine describes a proposal to use Nikola Tesla's magnetic amplitude modulation as a way for trapped miners to communicate with the surface.
Posted by kelseymh 8 years ago
I was wondering can any one give me pointers on this? Lately our dish washer is leaving spots on our dishes, glasses and est. I figure it is a build up of minerals in the spray and drainage holes of our poor dish washer since our house water system does have hard water. Even though we regularly use things like Jet dry to supplement the dish washing there comes a time where even that is not good enough to keep away crusty minerals. We had this dish washer for years now and never have issues until now. I plan on using a product like CLR in the dish washer but I'm not sure what to do next. Do I just pour the whole bottle of the product in the machine or do you pour it in a certain place? After I do imagine that I would have to let it sit in there and then run a few cycles? What do you guys suggest? Thanks for your input. :)
Posted by Treasure Tabby 7 years ago
I live near the site John Marshall discovered gold in 1848. There is gold dust and particles everywhere! Problem is that the gold is dust or fine powder form and the gold strongly adheres to it's surrounding ores. Panning is tedious and not effective. How can I separate the gold dust/powder from the other minerals? I have heard using Auger Regis is effective, but cannot find anything on how to use it, purchase it, or make it myself. Any suggestions/instructions on making or using auger regis; or any other more effective method of extracting the gold from the other minerals is greatly appreciated.
Posted by Ruthless0240 6 years ago
Hi all, Just wondering if anyone knows of any minerals, or products that will produce a visible fluoro colour in daylight, or phosphorescent in the dark. I want to be able to either use these as glaze or as stain for clay slip.
Posted by jarris 4 years ago
I'd like to hear some suggestions for separating sand and water in a 4" diameter glass vase. I'm doing an arduino project that involves having a dyed deep blue mineral oil as a non-evaporating "water" atop about 4 inches of sand in a glass vase. I experimented with drizzling Loctite epoxy and it leaked about 1/4" into the sand, so it wasn't very elegant (created a layered look - dry sand, wet sand, epoxy, water). I'd like the delineation to be as clean, but easily implemented, as possible. Worst case scenario is that I wrap something around the vase to hide the transition, but I'd like to avoid that if possible. I suppose another option is to stack 2 separate glass vessels, but im struggling with thinking of a good way to do that too... Perhaps this is also a non-issue...I should see if the deep blue mineral oil is even visible if put directly INTO the sand. Thanks in advance.
Posted by JeffF8 1 year ago
I guess this question has two parts. I'm prototyping a solar energy device, part of which is a light pipe to transport the collected solar energy, about 300 - 2500 nM. I'm planning on making this from a flexible tube filled with a highly refractive liquid, stoppered at each end with clear plugs. It looks like the materials I should be using are: Tube: Teflon (PTFE, FEP, AF 1600, AF 2400) in that order of desireablitity, lowest to highest. The AF 2400 has a refractive index of 1.29, which is the lowest of any polymer. Apparently. Core: Mineral oil / liquid paraffin. Plugs: Acrylic or normal glass. Thoughts? Also, where would you suggest I try to find these? (I have the mineral oil already) Keeping in mind that I'm in Madrid, Spain. Getting this to work would make a huge difference to solar microgeneration, as transporting the energy is currently a bit of a nightmare. Thanks heaps, Daniel.
Posted by SolarFlower_org 8 years ago
JHS INDUSTRY(DALIAN) CO., LTD is a leading company with many years' experience in export business and enjoys a good reputation internationally . A credible sales network has been set up and we have our regular clients from over 40 countries and regions worldwide. We are sourcing many types of products for customer. Mentioned : pet supplies, chemical, non-mineral,construction,outdoors, DC motor,Home supplies, Package line, decorations, hardwares.etc.
Posted by jhsindustry 6 years ago
I went to toysrus looking for a present for a cousin and OH my gosh! Knex has Lego men, I knew they had lego like pieces but this is a step to far, I dont even recognize knex anymore, years ago there was a whole isle to the stuff and it had a tall feris wheel on display, now its reduced to the section in between mega blocks and all the lego recycled idea (power miner < rock raiders, atlantis, they did an underwater one before) with only half a shelf and NO tubs other then the cheap filled with tons of bricks What has happend?????
Posted by Sypran 8 years ago
Hi again iables, I want to build a oil submersable ps3 and have a few questions, 1. Will the oil degrade the silicone on a glass fish tank and cause a leak? 2. How do i extend the power and eject buttons off the motherboard? 3. How do i extend all other wires for the hard drive, power supply, bluray drive, hard disk drive and any i have missed? 4. What would be the best way to stop wicking in the wires from slowly emptying the oil? 5. Would any normal pc case cooling fans be ok to circulate the oil or would they burn out from the extra current draw? 6. Would a normal overhead fish tank filter be ok to use as a diy radiator pump? 7. Would this prevent the dreaded YLOD as iv already had it twice and fixed it myself, with relative success (about 2 months or 100ish hours), and this time im going to oven bake instead of heat gun as this method is rumoured to provide the best results, anyway i hope because of the even cooling provided by the oil bath, then it would keep it much cooler than air cooling? 8. What about using themoelectric cooling pads with huge heatsinks to provide extra cooling? 9. Would the wireless and bluetooth antenna's need to be extended or would they be ok submersed? i thought radio signals were blocked by water so is oil the same? If they do, how would i go about this? 10. Where would i buy mineral oil? I heard that Johnsons baby oil would work? 11. Could i use something similar to an undergravel filter in a fish tank to generate circulation if a pump head wont work? 12. What metal piping should i use for a diy radiator as i heard that mineral oil is very good at dissolving some things and im worried that the contamination may cause conductivity? I think that's it... if not ill add more when i think of them, many thanks in advance for any help!?
Posted by Xmortx114145 6 years ago
The LAPD, The FBI, and the CIA are all trying to prove that they are the best at apprehending criminals. The President decides to give them a test. He releases a rabbit into a forest and each of them has to catch it. The CIA goes in. They place animal informants throughout the forest. They question all plant and mineral witnesses. After three months of extensive investigations they conclude that rabbits do not exist. The FBI goes in. After two weeks with no leads they burn the forest, killing everything in it, including the rabbit, and they make no apologies. The rabbit had it coming. The LAPD goes in. They come out two hours later with a badly beaten bear. The bear is yelling: "Okay! Okay! I'm a rabbit! I'm a rabbit!"
Posted by devilbarney 7 years ago
Researchers at Purdue have impregnated paper with iron particles, creating "ferropaper." ------------------------------------------ Researchers at Purdue University have created a magnetic "ferropaper" that might be used to make low-cost "micromotors" for surgical instruments, tiny tweezers to study cells and miniature speakers. The material is made by impregnating ordinary paper -- even newsprint -- with a mixture of mineral oil and "magnetic nanoparticles" of iron oxide. The nanoparticle-laden paper can then be moved using a magnetic field. ------------------------------------------ The article later mentions that "newspaper and soft tissue paper are especially suitable." This sounds to me like a startlingly simple DIY project that could create some fun kinetic sculpture, if nothing else. Via ScienceDaily
Posted by CameronSS 8 years ago
NASA crash landed a space craft named "SMART-1" into a crater in the southern parts of the moon where the sun never shines to "kick up the dust" and analyze it with a following craft called "Centaur" for water and mineral compounds. I watched it live here www.nasa.gov/55644main_NASATV_Windows.asx which I have got to say was pretty cool, but you can watch the last bits of it here www.youtube.com/watch. Watch the guy try hi-five his mate.Whole story here www.nasa.gov/vision/universe/watchtheskies/30aug_smart1.html, it's pretty amazing.
Posted by Kryptonite 8 years ago
I'm building a power supply for my cnc machine that gives off about 37volts at 8 amps, and 12 volts at 0.9 amps. All of the transformers are from radioshack (using 6 heavy duty, 25.2volts, 2 amps transformers, 4 in parallel giving off 25.2 vdc at 8 amps, and 2 12.6 volts in parallel. Together in series gives about 37 volts at 8 amps. using 1 25.2 volts 450mA transformer, center tapped) My case does not have enough room for proper cooling such as fans. My case is water tight though, should I fill it up with something like mineral oil to keep the transformers cool?
Posted by guyfrom7up 10 years ago
I love steam rooms. i want to build one out behind our house in the country in thailand. but it has to be low-tech. i'm thinking i'll make a square wall out of cinderblocks, about 4 feet high. then my shower will stick up from that .we don't have running water. we get water pumped from the well into big jars and use a bowl to splash water on ourselves to wash. but i put a submersible pump in the bottom of the jar, rigged up some PVC pipe and i have a shower of sorts. so if i build a 4 foot high square wall, with a doorway, i can pull a thick piece of foam over the top to cover the top, hang a rubber curtain across the doorway opening, and have an enclosed, outdoor room that i can steam up and sweat the gunk out, then stand up, flip off the insulating cover and shower right there. the steam room will go right behind me and the jars in the shower picture- where you can see a little bit of grass growing. but how do i make a steam generator? commercial ones cost way more dollars (baht) than i need to spend. i can use propane from a tank for fire, or wood, or charcoal. the well water is very hard water with a lot of dissolved minerals in it so my steam generator can't be something that will get clogged up with mineral deposits. anybody got any ideas? the steam generator needs to be cheap, home-build-able with local materials, and safe... don't want anything that can blowup, catch fire, or asphyxiate the users.
Posted by Thaikarl 10 years ago
As Lira would say, I haz skillz. I do not, though, have any serious photo-editing skillz. So, it should be easy to impress me and earn a patch in my new contest; apply your skillz in Photoshop, Gimp or even Paint to join a Mini with anything else. Caitlinsdad's hybrid of my Mini and Thunderbird 2 (below) was the inspiration for this contest, so he has already won a patch. You can join the Mini with anything you like - animal, mineral, vegetable, even celebrity. You must use a Classic Mini (any model), not the BMW version. To win a patch, your image must impress, both with creativity and the level of skill exhibited. The judge's decision is final and potentially rather arbitrary. Ready... steady... shop! EDIT: This contest ends June 30th, midnight GMT
Posted by Kiteman 8 years ago
I am interested in building an Atmospheric Water Generator, a machine that creates water from nearby air, kind of the what happens when window air conditioning units drip water, but at a much higher scale. My goal is to create a unit capable of producing 1-2 gallons per day, for use here in southern California. I've read https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Atmospheric-Water-Generator/, a great write-up. Mostly, it requires a dehumidifier, with a stainless steel element, a water filter and tubing. I am wondering if I use a non-stainless steel dehumidifier, about 1/4 the price, and a really good water purifier, if that'll do the job. Also wondering if the dehumidifier will get mineral or other kind of deposits and need to be cleaned periodically. Anyone have any insights on this? Thanks
Posted by pranaman 3 years ago
Check out the new Instructables that have gotten the most pageviews in the last week. All of these Instructables have been published on May 1 or later.Last week we saw a lot of metal and circuits, but this time around it's all about food and solar and make-up. Oh, and three of these Instructables were made by Instructables staff, two by scoochmaroo and one from me. Glad to see that so many other people are as excited about tearing apart Gummi Bears as I am. 5-minute Ice CreamWARNING: The Following Instructable Is Extremely Addictive. Not for the Faint of Heart.You are now always only 5 minutes away from Ice Cream. Are you prepared? also works... posted by scoochmaroo on May 5, 2009 Gummi Bear SurgeryGummi Bears live short lives, but that doesn't mean that they don't have health problems and will occasionally need some care. There are times when these delicate bears will e... posted by fungus amungus on May 4, 2009 How to make a solar iPod/iPhone charger -aka MightyMintyBoostI wanted a charger for my iPodTouch and the MintyBoost was definitely my first choice. I wanted to take it a bit further and make it not only rechargeable but also solar power... posted by Honus on May 2, 2009 My home made solar cell step by stepHere is a low power low efficiency photovoltaic cell that you can make you own in the kitchen with materials from the hardware store.This cell is made from cuprous oxide ins... posted by alessiof76 on May 3, 2009 DIY Mineral MakeupMineral makeup is more than just a new beauty trend - it offers health benefits for skin as well. And now you can make it at home!It's made of all natural, finely ground min... posted by scoochmaroo on May 4, 2009
Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago
Here's a good use of old radioactive material. Use it to expose Polaroid film to create some ghostly images of old items.Why would anyone do this? The author puts it out there pretty clearly:For some time I've been fascinated with the idea of reproducing these types of images in my home lab without great cost and with relative safety. As a collector of radioactive minerals and other ephemera, I decided that I wanted to use naturally radioactive materials as the source for my 'penetrating rays' rather than an amateur electrical x-ray machine setup.Polaroid film is readily available and it develops itself. However, a workable technique needed to be developed. How to expose the film for hours or days without the need for absolute darkness? How would I develop the film reliably after an exposure was made?The answer came from Kevin Clark of the Yahoo group, "GeigerCounterEnthusiasts". It was here that Clark explained his simple, yet reliable, technique for creating inexpensive Polaradiographs.Items you'll need: 1. A Polaroid SX-70, Type 600, or Spectra camera 2. A package of unexposed Type 600 or Spectra Polaroid film 3. One metal cookie tin at least six inches in diameter 4. A few sheets/roll of aluminum foil 5. Radioactive materialThat radioactive material can include:- Old, unused lantern mantles- Salt substitute or certain rock salts (Potassium Chloride)- Vaseline glass (plates, cups, or marbles)- Fiestaware plates and dishes- Welding rods- Old camera lens or vintage prescription eyeglasses (look for yellowed or browned optical glass)- Uranium ores and minerals- Exempt, unlicensed radioactive calibration sources- Radium containing clocks, watch hands, compasses, dials, and gauges- Tritium gunsights and keychain fobsCheck out the site itself for the full story. It's a good read with plenty of information about the history of x-ray photography.via Neatorama
Posted by fungus amungus 10 years ago
Hi. there is a new craze sweeping the craft and art community with a mono printing plate called a gelli plate. It's made out of some sort of mineral oil or gel of some sort. (i think). It's a flexible, clear mat with a soft feel and a give to it, a bit like jello. There are plenty of homemade versions using gelatin. which works fine for a while but it soon breaks up or bacteria sets in as gelatin is a food substance. Are there any clever boffin types out there that can make a similiar product that doesn't use gelatin and that has a good shelf life. I first thought of Oogoo but it's not pliable enough. This Gelli plate reminds me of the soft silcone gel that is used for scar healing, but is so expensive for small sheets. here is the link to see what I am after. http://www.gelliarts.com/pages/gelli-printing-plate-demo
Posted by Lijesm 5 years ago
The video below was awarded Best Illusion of the Year at this year's Vision Sciences Society meeting. I originally saw this posted in Nature News: In a packed concert hall, Kokichi Sugihara wields a pickaxe and mimes a blow to the stage. "I am a miner, and I have a secret," Sugihara says, adjusting his hard hat and headlamp. "I have discovered a new super-magnet." A screen behind Sugihara begins playing a video. A cardboard structure appears, consisting of four ramps ascending to a raised platform. A hand places a wooden ball at the base of a ramp, and it rolls uphill, before stopping on the 'super-magnetized' platform. As the same trick is repeated for the other three ramps, the crowd lets out an "ooh". Thanks to Kiteman, here's the author's own Web site: http://home.mims.meiji.ac.jp/~sugihara/hobby/hobbye.html Image and video from Koichi Sugihara, Meiji University.
Posted by kelseymh 8 years ago
I tried making one part and also two part (push) molds with plaster of paris. I followed the directions and mixed two parts of plaster to one part of cool water and poured into a box (dunno the technical name for it) over my shape. But the plaster sticks to my shape no matter what. I can't get my shape (positive) out without breaking my mold b/c it won't release. I've tried mineral oil, silicone release spray, and vaseline. The vaseline has worked the best but I can't use it on every part. I've tried making a mold of a piece of wood and a concrete paver and neither of which worked. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. It seems fairly straight forward. Lubricate the positive (what I want to make a mold of), put a slab of clay down, put the box around the positive and imbed into the clay to prevent leaking from the bottom, and then pour the plaster over the positive.
Posted by msminnamouse 4 years ago
I am planning to build a flash game machine base on the flash game: gold miner :(check this link http://www.goldminer1.com/ for the game). as picture1 below. I would like to build it like a arcade machine in the store . That means without mouse and keyboard , only use a key to control the character , all of work of mouse should be automatically done by program(all of game selections would be set in advanced by PC mouse controlling program , through it is not optimal choose.) . the machine will look like picture 2 in my mind : I have a PC which could run this flash game . I don't know how to program the mouse control and how to control the character by a single button which connect to PC . I think It could be done by arduino, is it right ? Is here anyone know the similar project to consider or give me any suggestions will be very appreciated !
Posted by tomxu 4 years ago
This instructable is missing vital, or rather deadly information:https://www.instructables.com/id/Drink-Your-Own-Pee---survival-guide/i posted a comment on it, but i doubt anybody will read it. if it is already contained in the instructable, and i haven't seen it, please forgive me.: HeLLO!!!!! I lnow i am VERY late with this post, and i hope someone still reads it.NEVER DRINK URINE! EVER! WhY? well, for one, fresh urine contains no bacteria, unless you suffer from bad kidney disease, in which case, you probably couldn't pee anymore.so why not drink it? because ALL TOXIC WAIST of your body leaks into your urine. those remain inside this primitive distillation device on the soil ,as mineral salts, the water being evaporated and recondesed on the foil, thus recuperated. so, this thing is basically a sun powered water distillation thingie. in emergency situations, you can distilate your urine by other means too, to drink water out of it. just DON'T DRINK URINE, NOT EVEN BOILED. ESPECIALLY NOT BOILED. the water getting evaporated by boiling, the urine increases the concentration of toxines. you can only boil it up to collect the steams, which condense into water. that's what you wanna drink.
Posted by DonQuijote 10 years ago
Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! Mother's Day Contest - Sew something for Mom and win a sewing machine from Singer! Earthjustice United States of Efficiency Contest - Closes for entries on Sunday! You could win a MacBook Pro so enter now! The winners of the Klutz Rubber Band-Powered Contest have been announced. See who won! Become a fan of Instructables on Facebook. See contest updates, talk to other fans, and find out how the robot is feeling. Sleeping Bag Suit 5-Minute Ice Cream Hammered Leaf and Flower Prints Gummi Bear Surgery Closes for entries this Sunday! Convert a Baby Swing from Batteries to AC Sourdough Bread Create Laser Art with a Digital Camera DIY Mineral Makeup Featured questions from our new Answers section: How do I monitor battery voltage and adjust engine idle with a servo? How do you get old t-shirts whiter? Checkpoint Charlie Hat Green Solar Powered Water Barrel Carry Your Baby African Style Insulate Your Loft and Save the Planet Sew something great for Mom and win a sewing machine! Make Sunday special Drawdio! Homemade Solar Cell Broken Arm Lego Accessories Contactless Dynamo Powered Bike Lights Sign-up for this newsletter:
Posted by fungus amungus 9 years ago
Today I was bored and made a homemade yu-gi-oh duel disk out of cardboard and some other junk. So first I drew my design and cut out the base part, which held the cards. Of course, I had to measure and trace the cards to make a design that would hold the card in both atk and def position. Then, the hardest part for the base, I designed the spell and trap card zone. Then, by simply cutting out a piece of cardboard and getting one of those pins that fold at the back, I made the field zone. The hardest part of it all was making the deck/graveyard/life-points/arm connector part. The lifepoints area was made by gluing a small calculator onto the d/g/l/a(dgla). The dgla was made of 5 different layers of cardboard so as to make enough room for the graveyard. Next, I got my deck box and cut off part of it and glued it onto the side of the dgla. It worked perfectly for a deck holder with a few miner adjustments to hold the deck in place. Then, with an exacto knife, I cut out the area for the graveyard and added a small slip that pulled up and out to hold the graveyard cards in place. Finally, I cut out a piece of stretchy cloth just smaller than my wrist and glued it on. NOW, WHEN I POST INSTRUCTIONS, YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN GENUINE PIECE OF CRAP! lol. Pictures coming soon.
Posted by PineapplebobTheGreat 10 years ago
Earlier today, while removing tree stumps, on of my crew struck water. The theme song for the Beverly Hillbillies came up. "when up from the ground came a bubbling crude! ...oil, that is... " except it was water, and we went scrambling to find the water shutoff. Lawn Sprinkler systems usually have plastic pipe a few inches underground. No metal. :. Can't find it with metal detector. Potential Options: AC wires can be tracked through walls by the electromagnetic flux around them. Stud sensors today also have a circuit for AC wiring. Could something like that be used? Although city water has some minerals in it, does it have enough to conduct electricity well enough for an electric pulse sensor? If the water in the system was temporarily made salty enough for an EM signal to be traced, would it mess up the lawn once you dumped that salty h2o? Whata bout conductivity of a fertilizer mix? Medical scans- barium- mildly radioactive. mmmm.... yeah. right. Chemical sniffers- sniff out those semi-soft pipes? Like dogs sniffing out contraband in the airport... Use water flow to carry a fine wire through the pipe, then track an EM signal in that wire. sonic imaging (or at least detection- like the stud sensor) ground penetrating radar... That's all I can think of. Every option I can think of has issues. Is there any precedent for something that works in this situation?
Posted by Toga_Dan 4 years ago
We love seeing our authors transform their ideas into a reality, and we want to help in whatever ways we can. Below are some of the campaigns our authors are working to get funded. We'll do our best to keep this list current, so please check out their projects, and help fellow makers in our community find success! Current Campaigns i-mimic the animation made easy, Device capturing human motion directly in 3D animation software in real-time & without plugins. by Instructabler nawres102 Open Source DIY Automatic Tail Light, A fun and easy to assemble light sensor kit. By Instructabler Solarcycle Tiq probe, it defines a new category of electronic debug & test tools for makers & professionals - filling the gap between DMMs & 'scopes. By Instructabler markhen57 If you have a project you're trying to get funded, let us know! Completed Campaigns Doughnut Safe, Turn your spare tire into a strong box. By Instructabler Mrballeng The fumeFan, The fume Fan is a soldering fume extractor, work lamp, helping hands tool and a project organiser for hobbyists, makers and creators. By Instructabler hertzgamma SOLARPAD Open Source 5 Watt Smart Phone Solar USB Charger, Strap this water-resistant solar panel and battery to backpacks or mount it to tripods for camping, hiking, and cycling. By Instructabler Solarcycle Fish Bone, A no knots cord tightener specifically designed for paracord by author Mrballeng - Funded by almost 9000% of goal! Would you Woodwork, a funny and informational woodworking webseries by author Few Bits - Funded by 100% of goal! Zero to Maker, a re-skilling guide for new makers by David Lang - Funded by almost 2000% of goal! Arabic Alphabet Fun Flashcards, cute and kid friendly learning tool by author acraftyarab - Funded and met goal! PIXEL: Interactive LED Art, an interactive LED-based display for retro pixel art by author alinke - Funded by over 600% of goal! Blinky Fish, a tiny fish-shaped board that fits on an Arduino to help teach, by author marc.cryan - Funded by almost 600% of goal! Chipper, the ATtiny Programming and Prototyping Shield, by author Hammock Boy - funded by over 1000% of goal! Piranha, a follow-up knotless gear tie for paracord, by author Mrballeng - funded by over 1400% of goal! The Question Block Lamp, a Mario-inspired, interactive lamp for your inner geek, gamer and child, by author bduxbury - funded by almost 150% of goal! Out of Time - A patina weathered I-Beam with moving gears by Instructabler hack818 Maker Kase - Universal Maker cabinet. Perfect for 3D printers, model makers, small CNC machines and open frame Bitcoin Miners by Instructabler bmc.loughlin Have you started your own Kickstarter or Indiegogo to help fund your project? Let us know! Please leave the link in the comments, along with a brief description. We'll add your project to our up-to-date campaign list above, and promote it across our channels. If you have any questions, or want to add any additional info, please email me at email@example.com Thanks!
Posted by kazmataz 5 years ago
Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago
Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago