I want to heat water between 20c -40c
Asked by Ashravin90 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I bought an ECOFAN and want to know if anyone has figured out how to make one?I see computer fans online for as low as $19 that seem to run the same way.Heres one I looked at;http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1272112&csid;=_21Will these work?
Posted by olddawg 10 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Greetings! I need help finding a material for a project. I am looking for the cheapest Thermo-formable plastic that I can find. I need to be able to form it with a heat gun and keep its rigidity after forming. I also need to be able to paint it. I require a large amount so I am looking for the cheapest. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Posted by Jonas3 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Just wondering if any of you knowledgable folk can help me out. Of late I have experimenting with solar cells and energy production. I have been calculating some interesting results, many of which due to the use of lenses, magnification and mirrors etc. Alas this has led to more that on fried solar cell due to the temperatures im dealing with. Is there any practical way to obtain/construct a Thermo electric generator as pictured? I have spent some time with my friend Google, leaving me with little more than the notion that perhaps this technology is out of reach of the home experimentor. Think giant light cannon that can melt pennies. How can I harness this heat directly as apposed to, going the boiler/steam powered engine method?
Posted by Lftndbt 10 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to make an Iris diaphragm out of 2-liter bottle plastic. I need to flatten it into a nice sheet. I have a heat gun and numerous torches. Spouse says no plastic bottles in the oven.
Asked by hardlec 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi! I am planning to build a vacuum forming machine that does not use a seperate oven to heat the plastic. For my 3D printing hobby I have come across many heated beds, also some on 230v. Could something like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/30X30CM-750W-220V-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Pad-30cm-Thermistor/401257671771?hash=item5d6cd22c5b:g:iVEAAOSwx6pYrp70) with a heat sink be used for such an application? Thanks!
Posted by ttreurniet 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I was thinking about getting some thermo plastic. However, I wasnt sure if it would get creases in it if used over a spherical surface. If theoritically I put some thermoplastic over a bowling ball, would it match the curve of it? Thanks! -xD
Asked by ! xD ! 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Thermo electric generator converts heat into electricity. but small power is produced in this way for usage.
Asked by aalfeen shahbaz 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I am in the middle of designing a system to produce liquid air using the von linde process. the termos would not be under any pressure, but it will get quite cold. can a thermos using a glass vacuum insulated inside be able to withstand temperatures below -180 degrees celsius?
Posted by pedrogabman 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have a multimeter which has a thermocouple I can plug in to get a temperature reading. I really like the thing, but the thermocouple itself isn't all that robust. Although the meter is capable of reading temperatures up to 1850F, I doubt the thermocouple would last long at only 400-500F. My question is, is it possible to buy another thermocouple and use it in place of the provided one and still get fairly accurate temperature readings? I was thinking of maybe using a thermocouple normally used in furnaces or hot water heaters.
Asked by tylervitale 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
EDIT: I decided that starting with steam instead of hydrogen would be much more efficient, much safer, simpler, and cheaper than reacting hydrogen. So if anyone knows if there is a way I can compress steam in a canister and not have it turn to water, and where to get the supplies for relatively cheap, that would be great! Merci! So my last question was how to bond hydrogen and oxygen to make water and condense it, and I got how to do that, but how hard would it be to fit this whole thing into a homemade thermos that has a screw-on hydrogen canister on the bottom? The hydrogen storage would be outside of the thermos in the canister, but there's still the reactor, condenser, and pressure release valve for safety. How hard would it be to fit it into the thermos (the thermos is about 1.5-2x the height of a store-bought thermos and about the same width, maybe a little bit wider)? If that isn't possible or logical, how about a birdbath stand? It would be a wide PVC tube reminiscent of a stone birdbath support, and would have a basin on top that contains the water after exiting the condenser.
Asked by ALogan97 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I want to do some experimenting with making thermos bottles. I know that a vacuum is needed but how much? I heard that the thermal retention value only works below a certain vacuum level but I don't know what it is. any small vacuum won't do. I also would like the answer in regular terms. I found out that solar tubes use P<5x10-2Pa of vacuum. I don't know what that means in inches of vacuum. I need to know more, so that I can buy the right vacuum pump. What other equipment will I need? will a regular check valve and epoxy work for testing?
Asked by M F 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi, I am looking for reversible thermo chromatic pigments (or paint / ink, even paper) in europe. For now, the best I've found is 480â¬ including shipping and VAT for 1kg of pigment (32Â°C), which should allow to make about 5kg of paint, which would allow painting 20-25mÂ² (one layer). If you add the price for white paint, is come to 25â¬ for 1 square meter, which is not so expensive, but I need half a square meter, not 20 ! Any advice ? Thx, tReg.
Posted by treg 10 years ago
I am trying to make a heating element that would only turn on once the element itself reaches a certain temperature. This element, possibly ceramic, would be dormant until it reached an internal temperature from an external source (liquid) of 100 deg F. Once it is triggered, it would produce heat to maintain the liquid at 100 deg F. Ive been trying to figure out the best way to do this and how much power would be required. Say the liquid, well go with water, was 12 fl oz. how would I build a circuit that can be sensing temperature without using power, and once it reaches the desired temp, turns on the heater until the temperature either goes too high or drops too low so that it is not trying to work too hard. Open to suggestions on heating element types or anything that could help with my project. Thanks in advance!
Asked by AndrewN144 10 months ago | last reply 10 months ago
I just had to clean my thermos prior the tournament tomorrow. A quick peek inside revealed some stubborn residue. Propably furring (chalky deposits) from the boiling water i use to make tea in them... (we have quite "hard" water with lots of calcium). The throat of the bottle (Full-metal thermos) was too narrow for normal cleaning-brushes... I fortunately had a bag of rice standing around and thought "Hm... Hard and small things"! So i quickly added half a handfull of dry rice in the thermos and a bit of cold water (2-3 spoons). Then i shook it a bit and poured the rice out. The inside was quite clean and almost "pristine" again. This method should also work for thermoscans with glass-interiors. Another (better) way of doing that is propably (but ONLY if you have a METAL-Interior!) to add a hand of sand or fine gravel with some wather (Maybe even a bit of dishsoap) and give it a shake. Again: Only do the sand/gravel if your thermos does not have a glass-interior!! Have fun and enjoy a good drink while outside! :)
Posted by Orngrimm 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Basically I've had this idea for a catwalk project where whatever garment I make will heat up on request and therefore trigger color changes in thermochromic ink which I will use to dye the fabric. Like the Rorschach mask project, but perhaps using a lilipad arduino to control the heat. Thing is I don't want to cook or electrocute my model! My questions are: 1) What fabric would best conduct heat/not fry the lovely lady? 2) What components could I hook up to an arduino to create heat? 3) If the model sweats (the stage lighting will cause her to perspire) will it damage the circuit and therefore shock her? Help! D:
Asked by Raebel281 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I also need to know how to build heating element for this size box and where to purchase the plastic. Thanks
Thermo electric? Fridge, can I put a fan to the door to cool my small room?? It has a big Thermoelectric component on a even bigger heat sink on it and it works as a fridge, will it work as a cooler as is or if I take out the cooler component and place say 12 psu fans on top of the cool side? thanks Al
Asked by celalboz 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Is it possible to store liquid nitrogen and oxygen in a vacuum insulated container for a short period of time? i have a thermos that i though might work, but i want to be sure that im not going to have the thermos explode in my face when i try it. this is an old beefy thermos that can take at least 190 degrees celsius, but im not sure about the other direction.
Posted by pedrogabman 8 years ago
I want to do a light lamp, and configure it to change color with the temperature of the room with smooth transitions. We can setup it to light in blue with 18ÂºC or less, orange with between 19ÂºC and 22ÂºC, and red with 25ÂºC and more for example. Thanks
Asked by Niord 10 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
First things first notice: Iam in Europe so it's probably a bit different than in USA. I have electric radiator in my room. i bought thermo switch but i don't know how to connect it between the socket and the radiator. I must mention that the radiator had already same thermo switch before but it broke down after 5 years and I didn't write notes how it was connected. I already blown 4 fuses during the attempt. The wire has blue (P?), brown (N?) and yellow/ green (earth) wires. In the switch there's sheme sticker -> www.shrani.si/f/C/Nr/42sKtVVC/thermo.png. notice i have a plug and wire from the radiator both with mentioned wires. I checked blue wire and it's live (P??). Green-yellow wire is earth.. iam sure. so how do i connect the plug and the radiator??
Asked by Karletto555 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Needs help putting assembling a thermoelectric module for a possible inventing. Suggestions on the supplies and parts needed
Posted by jayhead 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
So, I work at a science center and we have our annual Engineering Olympics coming up and we've been brainstorming something about thermodynamics. The general format is 6 teams from different highschools in the area are given a task to complete from one engineering discipline, such as construct windmill blades to achieve the highest amperage from an attatched motor or insullate a container of water with random materials to prevent it heating up when submerged in boiling water. This year, I haven't really found an idea for thermo that really excites me. Thermo isn't the easiest thing in the world in highschool, and since we're dealing with kids from different schools, we have no way of knowing how advanced they are. So, any ideas of a project to test their thermodynamic mettle?
Posted by Dinkum Thinkum 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
First things first notice: Iam in Europe so it's probably a bit different than in USA. I have electric radiator in my room. i bought thermo switch but i don't know how to connect it between the socket and the radiator. I must mention that the radiator had already same thermo switch before but it broke down after 5 years and I didn't write notes how it was connected. I already blown 4 fuses during the attempt. The wire has three wires: blue ("live"), brown and yellow/ green ("earth"). In the switch there's sheme sticker -> www.shrani.si/f/C/Nr/42sKtVVC/thermo.png . so how do i connect the plug and the radiator?? www.imit.it/dati/schedaArticolo.php
Posted by Karletto555 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
The pilot light will not stay lit? i have replaced the "generator " which is what they call it rather then a thermo coupler . wondering if i should pull the gas valve ? I'm not exactly sure on how the generator keeps the pilot gas on? anyone have any ideas?
Asked by george.stevens.52035 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Wanted: circuit to open window at night when it is cooler outside than in. Close it when hotter outside in morn. Probably add something to prevent it from opening and closing several times in the eve and morn with random fluctuations. Prefer 2 thermostats, 1 outside, one in, rather than a timer. I've a vague recollection of a circuit with 2 potentiometers, one on the motor, one on the control panel, such that turning the control pot will activate the motor until its pot is at the same position as ctrl pot.. Could a circuit something like this control my window? But most thermostats are on/off, not continuous variable. It would be simple to do a switch logic thing like: “IF thermo ‘I’ is above 70 AND thermo ‘O’ is below 70, THEN OPEN “ but that only works at 1 temp.
Posted by Toga_Dan 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Is there ~~an easy way~~ a best way of detecting humans in the dark, or in a forest? Me and my friends play airsoft, usually in a forest, and it's hard to know where the enemy (other friends) are. I'm a sniper and I want an easy way to detect them. One way would be a thermo-camera, but those are expensive. Is there a better way?
Posted by guyfrom7up 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
It seems to me that a fridge using a peltier thermo generator would be perfectly coupled to a water heater and add considerably to camping comforts. I want to do this and have three 100W units but good advice is well worth having to start with. Has anyone done it yet and what sort of volumes /temperatures can be expected?
Asked by davidog 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
The zeroth law states that any 2 or more objects that come in contact must exchange energy to create a thermo equilibrium. Would 2 magnets of the same polarity in a vacuum still abide by this law? Can someone give me a formula to explain it? Can magnetic fields even make heat by themselves or rather is there any friction between the two?? Thanks much!
Asked by shawneegeek 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I bought a small square of Lexan (sheet polycarbonate) to experiment with and noticed on the clear, protective laminate the words: "extrusion direction" and an arrow. I will most likely use this sheet for thermo -forming, but would like to hear any thoughts on how the extrusion direction might affect drilling, cutting, etc. Thanks, Marshall
Asked by redplanetcorridor 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm struggling to decide on a power source and a heating method. My tutor has suggested fuel cell technology but this is not readily available yet and although there is a lot of research on the topic, I have to create a working model. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated? Thanks for all your answers - much appreciated. I need it to heat 500ml of water to around 80C (enough for a hot beverage) so that the user can then add instant coffee/tea. I've looked into the technology behind zippo handwarmers using lighter fuel and a catalytic converter. I must either have a working model or perhaps just a prototype with a separate model simulating the technology within the flask. I need it to be fairly innovative so using batteries wouldn't work for this (plus it would be too bulky). Thanks again!
Asked by ey14 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Gave notice at work today, strangely the boss was super enthusiastic about my leaving, oh well. So last day is officially the 26th, but I'll take a personal day and make the 22nd my last day. It feels really really strange. I'll be a full time student now, praise be to student loans. Spring 2008 Chem for eng solid mech dynamcs thermo.
Posted by Tool Using Animal 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Hello. Can someone please tell me how to modify the thermostat on a wine cooler (that uses a compressor). I want to change the temperature from running between 10c-18c to 0c-5c. Please post an instructable or give me ideas- even if generic, it would be helpful.I am specifically trying to modify a baumatic bw18.
Posted by drosengarten 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
This is a project in school, we are working on Thermochemistry. Trying to figure out which would be the best insulator for a barrier box.(built from maple wood) The box is a model of a thermo-barrier system. We have to keep the temp. of the box above 0 degrees celsius for 15 min. and below 100 degrees celsius for over an hour.Any help, yea its alot, but i rlly need info and opinions.
Asked by ME is the best 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
NOT Ratfink, but Batfink. Has anybody ever seen this show? You know, with Batfink's super sonic sonar radar, his wings of steel that cannot be harmed, evil genius Hugo-a-go-go, his sidekick Karate, the Battillac that looks like a VW-bug and always makes Batfink glad that it has a thermo-nuclear plutonium insulated something, the announcer that always stops right before something horrible will happen to Batfink and asks us what will happen, and the chief. I used to watch it on Boomerang, but they stopped airing it. It's a funny and cool show, made by Hal Seeger.
Posted by CLASSIFIEDINFORMATION 10 years ago
As some of you know, I left my job at Christmas to return full time to school to get an engineering degree, I'm kinda clever ;-), but my first full time semester was full of suck. I took Thermo, Dynamics, Solid Mech, and Chem for Eng. Chem for Eng was a joke, I never attended class and got an A. Thermo, the teacher, it was his first time, I learned from the book, got a B+ Dynamics, the teacher was a grad student, and he was incredibly passionate about teaching, great class, harder than hell, got a B. And then there is Solid Mech. The grade has been a sword of Damocles hanging over my head, I was doing so poorly that I even registered to take it again in the summer, the first test, I got a 39, and that was greater than one sigma below the mean. Well folks, I just dropped that summer class because I got a C. Yea freakin' ha!!! I never thought I'd be this excited to be average. LOL. So now I have all summer, only one class (materials) and maybe a part time job, expect to see more (low cost) instructables. Ghod, right now I feel awesome.
Posted by Tool Using Animal 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
All right everybody so I'm going tp post a little brain puzzle. The first one to get it will get followed by me. (NOTICE: PM me the answer,if you leave a comment it has a chance to be stolen.) Puzzle: 3 men enter a steam room at a gyn. One of the men is carrying a thermos,the other a towel,and the third a water bottle. After 10 minutes later and the steam clearing away two of the men find that the other is dead. WHO KILLED THE MAN. After somebody has given me the answer I will post the correct answer in a edit of this forum. Good luck.
Posted by didexo 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Over the last month, I have noticed that my forum topics do not show until a few days after posting. By this time they have sunken three pages in.One of my previous topics, did not show until Kiteman commented in it. I'm not sure how he found it.I have just posted another topic, which still hasn't shown up after a day.This has only occured of late as previous topics showed within 5 min.Thermo electric generatorand my recent topicSia preforms still MIAAny ideas?
Posted by Lftndbt 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Greetings Space Cadets! I need help figuring out what sort of switch to use to activate the thermo-nuclear disruptor beam of the ray gun I'm building out of a busted battery powered drill, a smoke alarm and a battery. Bet you didn't know this combination of junk is dangerous in the wrong hands? I need a switch that will work with DC current and switch on the circuit when pressed but not stay on. Like a primitive projectile firing pistol of the 21st century this ray gun should only fire once when the power switch is pressed and not stay on continuously. Any suggestions? And yes, I'll post an 'ible when I get it done. Thanks!
Posted by 2lazy2work2nervous2steal 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am building a thermo-electric generator from the design showed by this inscrutable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-thermoelectric-lamp/ my main idea is to be able to charge rechargeable batteries from this to be able to charge a more powerful item like a phone for a larger period of time, i already have a joule thief to up the energy but this still seems like it is going to be a bit weak and only able to charge when heat is applied , all the voltage details are in the instructable i used above
Asked by On The 3dge 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I have had this idea for a while and I decided to try and make it a collaboration instead of just trying to do it by myself. I thought there was a way to start a collaborative instructable, but I don't see that option now. Does anyone out there know how to do a collaborative instructable? Maybe that option appears right before you publish it? I don't know if the best way to share ideas is this forum, or the collaborative instructable (if it exists). ******** Here is the idea: I have a solar box cooker, which is shown in this instructable. On days when I have nothing to cook, I often put a kettle of water in it, so when I get home from work I have very hot water that can be used for cooking pasta, making tea, coffee etc. I pour that water into a thermos, and it will stay hot until the next day. I would like to design and build a solar cooker that is dedicated to this task with this tentative list of requirements: *It would be fairly small, just large enough to hold a kettle *It would be easy to put the kettle in and take it out *It would be weatherproof, so it could sit outside for months at a time *It would be designed in such a way that it would collect energy from the Sun during a large portion of the day, without need of any sun-tracking mechanism *Ideally, it would have a mechanism that would transfer the water to a thermos as soon as it boiled, or got to a certain temperature. Looking forward to hearing from people who want to collaborate on this. As soon as we have decided on where to share ideas, I'll post mine.
Posted by dlginstructables 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
By closed system i mean constant mass of working fluid. i.e. no steam leaving system, like an air conditioner. My point is that alcohol has a lower boiling point that water, (some kinds can boil from the heat of your hand!). SO other than the safety problem of alcohol being flamable, alcohol could operate with a lower heat input than water. With the addition of a cold resivoir, the closed system alcohol steam engine could work right? Or why not use a refridgerant gas in a closed system steam engine cycle,? >Which would effectively absorb the heat input any ideas? addition* I mean for use in any steam engine with a closed loop cycle, like the Rankin cycle http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rankine_cycle
Asked by MechEngineerMike 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.
Posted by PavelA12 11 days ago | last reply 10 days ago
Russian technology satellite. One launch, 1957.10.04. Tikhonravov's 1.4 metric ton ISZ satellite was to have been launched by the new R-7 ICBM as the Soviet Union's first satellite, during the International Geophysical Year. But it was not ready in time, so Korolev hurriedly developed Sputnik 1 as a replacement. It became the first artificial satellite of the earth. Sputnik 1 had 1 watt of power, producing an 0.4 second duration signal on the 7 and 15 m bands. Four antennae were deployed at 35 degree angles. Power was provided by three silver-zinc batteries. Thermo-regulation was by a ventilator. The 580 mm sphere had a mass of 83 kg and was made of highly polished Aluminum AMG6T alloy 2 mm thick. It was built without drawings due to the quick time schedule. Korolev was everywhere, supervising all aspects of its construction. It functioned for 21 days. AKA: PS-1. Gross mass: 84 kg (185 lb). First date: 1957-10-04. Number: 1 . the word sputnik is russian word for traveller
Posted by Waren-Neutron 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I thought I could make an inexpensive soaking tub by just fitting up an open top 55 gal plastic drum, but my body will not quite fit when I try to sit in it. I just need a couple more inches for my knees. So after viewing a you-tube on how those barrels are made, I have thoughts that I might be able to re-thermo-form the barrel. The more I think about it, if successful, there are lots of uses. Someone posted that HDPE melts around 265F, so I figure that I could get that air temp easily with a hot air gun, possibly inside the barrel, then using a resealable lid, add air pressure to the barrel and surrounded it with a new rigid mold. If I could figure out how to intrude with parts of the rigid mold, I could even make a seat. As I am imagining, the closer I can get it to the shape of my body in a sitting position, the least amount of water I have to use to fill and heat. And then I could add spray foam to the outside for insulation. Does anyone out their have experience blow molding or other recommendations?
Posted by tesselation 3 years ago
I am looking to design a coffee mug that reminds the user via a speaker attached to the door in some way, that they are leaving the house without their coffee. The project will need a sensor at the door that can recognize a sensor built into the mug, I'm thinking Thermos style yet able to fit in a normal sized cup holder, that can be machine washed without damaging the inside components. (The design can have an attachable bottom to hold the hardware and battery source, so the main part is machine washable.) And an additional sensor is needed on the users car keys to recognize the user is leaving the house. when both the mug sensor and the key sensor pass at the same time a "have a nice day _______user name_____" voice recording plays when only the key sensor goes past the door receiver a " ____User name____ is forgetting their coffee" voice recording plays My questions are for what type of sensors will I need to purchase in order to create this project? and how would I set up the code to recognize the combination of sensors vs. the single sensors by passing the door sensor? Thank you for your help Indestructable community
Posted by Ragestine 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
For people who want a reasonably portable non-electric espresso-making solution that's also affordable, there are a few alternatives. A few examples: Pneumatic: https://www.instructables.com/id/Hand-held-Espresso-maker/ http://www.handpresso.com/ http://mypressi.com/ Brute force: http://unmodifiedpresso.blogspot.se/ Results are--of course--variable with all of these solutions. From what I've gathered, apart from issues with bad coffee, with grind setting/quality or with tamping, the major issues have to do with temperature and pressure. Then there're the issues of convenience/comfort. How would you like to address such issues? Re. temperature, there's the time-honoured method of preheating all the parts by rinsing with just-boiled water. I like the idea in principle but I'd like a way to ensure that the water used for extraction stays in the right temperature range for as long as possible. Possible solutions: 1. Phase change metals such as the ones used in Joulies: http://www.joulies.com/pages/frontpage (different temperature target of course; not DIY-friendly) 2. A large reservoir of hot water. Make the machine hollow so that it can hold a lot more hot water and ensure that this large volume can stay in contact with the extraction chamber. May make the machine more pleasant to hold and use :) a possibility may be to have a water container encircling the existing water chamber in the Presso. Or just pour a lot of near-boiling water in a tank from which only enough water for one or two shots is released into the extraction chamber. Eg. make the Presso's water-reservoir much larger but design it so that only enough for one or two shots is released when the handles are raised to the appropriate position. 3. Insulation. Design as a thermos in such a way that metal parts won't rapidly transfer heat away from the water. What're your ideas?
Posted by Aimless 6 years ago
The goal: cheap, easy(ish) electricity. The power source: concentrated sunlight or fire. The question: Has anyone here made them self one of these? : a thermoacoustic electric generator which runs at high frequency. I'm not talking about a sterling engine at least not exactly. Rather I'm looking to make something that resonates much faster and could be harnessed with a voicecoil or a piezo electric transducer. This has been done by grad students and researchers but I haven't seen any built by the DIY crowd. There are some startups around who tout this method because it is more efficient than a sterling engine and easier to build because there are essentially no moving parts or sliding seals. The higher frequency seems to be the tipping point in efficiency because there is less gas moving but moving with the same energy: "Minimizing the flow velocity of the gas overcomes viscous losses inside the regenerator, whose tiny pores allow heat to move between gas and solid most efficiently." http://www.americanscientist.org/issues/feature/the-power-of-sound/5 I'm thinking of making something with common materials: a loop of steel pipe and speakers or a bunch of piezo buzzers and a bike tire valve to add compressed air (for higher frequency oscillation). Can anyone lend the voice of experience for us? Here's some reference material: http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/news/2003/01/57063 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoacoustic_hot_air_engine In greater depth: http://www.americanscientist.org/issues/feature/the-power-of-sound/ http://www.aster-thermoacoustics.com/?page_id=141 Videos: http://science.discovery.com/videos/invention-nation-thermal-acoustics.html http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv0ulNLRkWM And there's a good explanatory video out of Europe but I can't find it now. Key words for 'bots: TAPEC ECN TAP (Thermo Acoustic power) SCORE (Stove for Cooking, Refrigeration and Electricity)
Asked by snotty 7 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have my sisters protable aircon here and with the summer on the way I am now finally required to see if I can fix it. But I am somehow lost with this one... Problem: The aircon runs perfectly fine as it is supposed to for about 3 - 4 weeks with usage depending on how hot it is between 4 and 6 hours a day. But without any warning, noise or things like that the compressor simply stops running - or does not start. Noone really noticed what happened but noticed it no longer cools. Fixes so far: During the warranty period, which is over now, the unit was replaced twice by the shop. After that it had to be dropped off at a repair center where the compressor was replaced twice. After each compressor replacement we were told the compressor failed because the unit was not used for weeks and then it had to run for too long - total bogus if you ask me.... Checks from my side: Twice I measured the failed compressors and there was no resistance in the motor anywhere, totally burnt out or a thermo fuse blown I would say. Even after 3 hours of ongoing use the compressor won't get any warmer than my fridge or freezer compressor. So I rule out overheating. Pressure levels seem to be fine too although I can only measure from the service port and can't check hot and cold side seperatly. However: The unit seems to have a timing/safety problem. On my aircons it is impossible to make the compressor start again once it completed a cycle, only once the gas pressure has equalised it will turn on again. If, for example, the aircon just shut off and you set a lower temp on the dial the compressor will jump in right away. Even worse if an additional fan is blowing in the wrong direction, then the unit might turn on again seconds after it shut off. Conclusions so far: I am at the point where I say the starting under still high pressure is causing the motor to stall and then burn out. Only other thing I can think of would be a very badly designed compressor.... Since the compressor is still working (so far) I am now tempted to add a resettable fuse that is just a bit higher than the nominal motor current. Questions: A fuse might help to protect the motor but certainly is not the best solution. Am I correct to assume that the motor will need far more power to start if the system is still under nominal pressure and not equalised yet? If all my assumptions are more or less correct then what would be the best place to add a timer that prevents the compressor from starting again too early? From what I can understand from the electronics inside it seems a set of triacs of thyristors is switching the compressor, but all marking on them are removed ROFL Would have to do some more digging to check for they are driven to draw a better conclusion on the type, might even be tiny SSR's !? ;) At this stage I would consider a simple 555 timer that activates once the compressor is turned off by the electronics. Once running the timer will block the signal to the triacs or whatever is used until the time is run out. Might even go for a simple timer relay if I can find one in my spre parts boxes. If I go for a 555, how can I integrate it ? Can I just keep the start signal for the timer high as long as the compressor runs? How do I "block" the start signal from the electronics to simply reset the timer before it runs out? Currently confusing myself here with the starting, stopping, timing and getting it between electronics and compressor :(
Asked by Downunder35m 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago