Do we have an instructable specifically on trimming and keeping a beard nice looking ?

I am looking for advice on keeping my beard, which is becoming unruly already, trimmed and groomed. I mean, I did a search and didn't find anything really useful. In the spirit of Ogden Nash, I bring you an Edward Lear limerick: There was an old man with a beard,Who said: "It is just as I feared!Two owls and a hen, Four larks and a wrenHave all built their nests in my beard". Before and after pictures (in reverse order)...

Posted by Goodhart 10 years ago


Replacing or renewing drywall

My AC Return/Supply is in my garage and appears to have some cheesy work done by the construction workers when they installed it, keep in mind this house is 10+ years old. I was hoping to replace and re-install some new drywall and was hoping for some recommendations on how to  approach this situation. See photos for details.

Posted by bprins 4 years ago


Cutting the trim around a steel sink

I need some professional advice. I need to decide on a sink for my future apartment (under construction) and I don't have the choices I like. I really want an undermount sink with a satin finish - and it's hard to come around where I live  (South America). I have found a satin finish drop-in type sink, and I am wondering if it could be cut to be used as an undermount sink. My question is, will the bowl of the sink warp if the frame is cut? The sink I want to cut looks like this but without the strainer on the left. Red lines indicate how I would like to cut the sink.  Thanks for your time, Colorex

Posted by colorex 4 years ago


best (inexpensive home) tool to cut thin brass cleanly?

I've been etching brass for a couple years now, but need a better way to cut and trim my plates than a hack saw and a straight edge... What's the best power tool for getting straight edges on thin brass plates? I've been thinking scroll saw or band saw, but I've been told that band saw blades will walk. would a scroll saw be a good idea?

Posted by gschoppe 9 years ago


What have you made using TRIM SEAL TOOL

I'm considering purchasing one, but do not make model airplanes. I'm wondering what others have used them for with regards to weapon or armor making. Is it worth it to get one?

Posted by charris.memory 2 years ago


could 12 strips of pvc angle trim be used to make a light but fairly rigid box frame?

I need to make a prop, the base of which is essentially an open upside down box of around 75cm x 75cm x 75cm. i was going to use a large cardboard box but it needs to be able to pack down as flat as possible for transportation and needs to be able to survive potential rain. i'm thinking i could drill a hole in both faces of each end of 12 strips of pvc angle trim (the stuff used around windows and doors), bolt it all together as a frame and attach corrugated plastic panels as the box faces. do you think the resulting box would be rigid enough to survive a few accidental knocks and kicks without collapsing? i'm not intending to add any load to the box other than a few blocks of carved foam for panel decoration.

Posted by ambientvoid 2 years ago


Trim Circuit Board?

Hey guys. I'm new to these forms so please bear with me. I'm looking to undertake this project:    Snes bluetooth Controller Mod https://www.instructables.com/id/Bluetooth-SNES-controllergamepad/   My goal is to be able to fit the keyboard into the Snes controller. My question is would you be able to cut off some of the unused keys on the bluetooth keyboard and still keep it functional?

Posted by Vega 034 4 years ago


Replacing the Grover Tuners on my Les Paul with PLanet Wave auto trims.

Yes I am replacing my grover tuners with planet wave auto trims on my epiphone les paul custom silverburst and the holes on the head stock dont seem to allow the new tuning machines to go through, is this because the hole is tapered from the grovers or do I need to bore the hole out. how do I do this?

Posted by travisw 7 years ago


Making my own Window exterior insulation panel insert

I have standard wood windows in our home where we should have spent the money and bought good, double-pane aluminums, but didn't so.... I need some advice. These windows I have are too new, to replace. There are small recesses on the exterior of the wood window frames where I want to insert permanent glass/plexiglass cover for insulation. I need advice on what framing I can use, similar to a poster frame trim where I can install it around the glass, then slide it into the window recess. I’d like to use an aluminum trim that is fairly narrow that would look good. I find framing trim that has slots I can slide the glass into, but what I’m finding is too thick. I only have about quarter inch I can insert to. Any advise?

Posted by opc167 7 years ago


I have fungus in my bathroom people

Well it appears that there is FUNGUS?!?! in my bathroom. Because our bathroom was never finished off properly, the shower leaks down the side and seeps into the wood trimming around the door on the right side. Well all it had done till now as get black with mold, but there is F****** fungus growing out (key word is OUT of the wood) of the trimming. Anyone got any ideas what I can do? Bomb it with some bleach? Anyone want a picture? It freaked me out when I saw it :PUpdate:Pictures, I had to take my laptop and webcam into my bathroom :-/

Posted by Punkguyta 11 years ago


Timer to flip light switch?

I need a timer that will mechanically operate a wall switch for a light. I've seen a device years ago for sale in the various "gadget" catalogs that did exactly this. It attached to the trim plate around the light switch using the 2 trim plate screws. A battery powered digital timer operated a mechanical slide to operate the wall switch. I can't find this device anywhere now. I know there are many electronic timers that replace the wall switch and have timer capability, most do not work with compact flourescent lights. I'd really like to find a timer for sale or get some ideas on a simple way to make such a device. Thanks for any help. Scott

Posted by tscottme 10 years ago


Had yourself an 'ibling Christmas ?

Inspired by an Instructable posted here, our Christmas dinner was a deep fried turkey, accompanied by my own Potato puffballs and all the trimmings Who else has used 'Ibles to help the season along ? Steve

Posted by steveastrouk 7 years ago


best price for trimming potentiometer

Elecsound can offer almost full range of lead type cermet Trimmer Potentiometers 3296 9mm Square Multi-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3006 Rectangular Multi-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3266 6mm Square Multi-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3269 6mm Square Multi-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3323 6mm Square Single-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3362 6mm Square Single-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3386 9mm Square Single-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers 3329 Round Single-Turn Trimmer Potentiometers For above items,we can have the competive price in the market,and fast delivery,if you need any of them,pls contact with us freely by email.mollie@elecsound.cn

Posted by elecsound33 11 years ago


International Editions

I just suffered a minor coronary looking at the cost of text for the next semester, and was wondering if anyone here had experience using international editions for engineering courses, It would be nice to trim my cost from $600 to $300 but I don't want books I can't use.

Posted by Tool Using Animal 10 years ago


50w LED on 54vdc?

Good day I have a couple of led chips of various wattage, and as I understand it is thirty something volt chips, And i have a BIG 54v 2,5A power supply, and no 30v regulator, when I trim the pot it gives me 44v Will this be too strong for my led chips? Ty~ ia Des

Posted by DesT1 8 months ago


Help with a kerosene lamp

Hey guys, I recently got this silver lamp, which I've filled with kerosene. The only problem is every time I light it, it lets off a thick line of black smoke? I've tried trimming the wick down, but it hasn't helped.  Does anyone have any experience with this, or any suggestions?

Posted by snazzyjazzy 6 years ago


My Crazy Cat

All us cat owners know the truth - cats can be really crazy. Please post your comments and pictures of your cats - crazy or normal, well, as normal as they can be. ~Below is a picture of my 6 year old Maine Coon mix cat, Princess, while my dad is trimming her claws. She HATES that.~ :)

Posted by Chikpea 4 years ago


Instructables Robot Memopad

In my Tech. class we are learning to use a line camera, develop film, make plates and use the off-set printing press. The press this was printed on is from 1955, oldest in Maine my instructor says. In the gluing process I messed up a little, some pages got misaligned and I went a little heavy on the glue, but I trimmed it after and it looks better.

Posted by rogers236 10 years ago


Do you cut your own hair? Also: great success!!!

I don't. I typically just go in for a little trim and that's it. I never fiddle with it myself... until tonight! I was finishing off the bottle of white wine I had to buy for my Cuban Xmas dinner (this sounds worse than it really is - I was mostly drinking the inch at the bottom, don't want that $8 to go to waste...), and suddenly got the bright idea of cutting some bangs. Alcohol and scissors might not sound like the best idea, but I think I did fine considering the circumstances. :D After stalking a couple of users on youtube briefly to see how others avoided butchering their hair, I found myself in the bathroom with a nice pair of fabric scissors hacking off hair. Maybe not hacking. Deliberate cutting, actually. And success! Well, after a half hour of fiddling and trimming off a half inch at a time. So do you cut your own hair? What do you use to do it? I'm curious whether DIYers are more likely to do this and not fail (possibly). Pictures? :D

Posted by jessyratfink 9 years ago


HELP - IDEAS NEEDED

If you are familiar with KIWI shoe polish applicator and shine brushes, I have boxes of these birch wood brush blocks that I'd like to use in creating some useful items.  These have a small indention on one side that was used for hanging during the lacquering process.  I can trim the ends or edges as needed.  I've thought of using for shadow box roofs, multiple-sided bowls, etc. but would appreciate any other sensible ideas.  Any help is appreciated!!

Posted by RRder 5 years ago


Make picooz micro heli controller run from ac/dc adator

Hi all, this is my first question so bear with me.... I want to mod all my micro heli transmitter/chargers to run of a 9V dc power adaptor, I'm tired of changing/charging batteries for them and seen as I sit next to a power socket when I fly this is the best option. For this question I am focusing on the picooz sidewinder remote. What I have planned is to use a dc barrel or 3.5mm jack socket, connect - to the battery - on the pcb and connect the tip to +in on the pcb the switched tip to the battery so that when nothing is plugged in it automatically runs from battery. what I would like to know is... where to add a capacitor and what rating, this to provide enough power for the fraction of a second when the plug is pulled out, without this I would have to "trim" the controller each time because it would turn off for that small amount of time and forgotten where it has been trimmed to. thanks in advance. ps once I have this working I will be doing a full Instructable on this subject.

Posted by Djdavies83 8 years ago


Trimmer Engine Generator

   Hello Instructables community.    I was thinking of making a 12 volt battery charger with a trimmer engine (pictured) connected to a scraped car alternator (I found several on eBay). But I have a few questions: 1. Would such a combination work as shown in the illustration?  2. Would it be best if I directly connected the engine to the alternator with no drive belts or chains, or would the high gear of the large engine gear and small generator gear be worth the extra trouble.  3. What is the best way to connect the two? And 4. Where should I remove the engine from the "trimming part". Any answers will be appreciated.                                                                                                                       Sincerely                                                                                                                  Confused DIYer

Posted by maalikm911 2 years ago


The Perfect Costumes for Pillaging

This is me and my sister as pirates. We made pretty much everything from scratch, most parts are made from Simplicity and Vogue patterns. It was SO much fun. One of the photos is (obviously) hyper-edited, but the rest are untouched. I'm in pink, my sister is in black. A few costume tips: - Start early. This gives you time to shop around for cheap fabric and trims. Most of these fabrics came in at $2 a yard or less. - Have a teammate. Two people are more convincing than one somehow. - Think creatively about patterns. Look at costume patterns and normal clothes patterns for parts to use. Combine things from multiple patterns - we used 4 different patterns for this. - Too much is never enough. Layer, add decoration, add parts, whatever.

Posted by technoplastique 10 years ago


Help with DC motor control circuit

I am looking for some advice in regards to a DC motor control circuit i am trying to build out of some electronic parts I have lying around. See attached control circuit diagram.  The idea is that a timer will trigger the relay to either run the motor in reverse at full voltage or it will run forward stopping and starting as per the wave form from the 555 timer. So on for about 2 seconds and off for about 2 seconds. This waveform can be changed using R1 and R2 which are trim pots.  The circuit works as expected until I hook the motor up. When the motor is meant to be following the waveform from the 555 it will actually stop and start very erratically. Any help on the reason for this would be great.  Also this is one of my first electronics projects and any feedback on my design would be appreciated. 

Posted by jmullo 2 years ago


MacBook Pro Case fix-up

So, I made this case last year in July-ish, It used to be a Speck(™) Fitted Case. The old fabric was white plaid but it was getting discolored, so I decided to be creative and take an old shirt of mine that didn't fit and cut it to the shape of the MacBook Pro case. I then peeled off the old fabric and placed the shirt on the case, and I bought Fabric Spray Glue from Michaels and sprayed the shirt till it stayed immobile and flat to the case. I then used a razor to cut off tattered pieces but now the glue wears off on the edges and the fabric isn't as stretchy anymore because I cut so much off the shirt.  I was wondering if anyone had any good tips for a nice "guy-styled" trim to put around the case to cover up the annoying saggy fabric? The material on this case already has black studs all over. 

Posted by Feross26 5 years ago


cardboard 3d models

First, you'd have to be very careful not to cut yourself (a leather glove to hold the piece helps). If you print the pieces for a cardboard model, instead of cutting, it'll look better if the pieces are sliced. These are the steps that I take: 1. After printing the models, I cut the pieces leaving 1/8 to 1/4 white space along the edges. 2 I use 12/24 pack cardboard from soft drinks (the cardboard from hot pockets works also, but its harder to cut) 3. use a glue stick to transfer the pieces to your cardboard and roll any round object to remove any bubbles. 4. when dry use a pair of scissors to cut the pieces. 5. lay the template face down on your material and use a pen to trace the outline. if using cardboard, use a box cutter blade and slice the parts out, slicing to the line of adjacent pieces. For slots, cut the width thru the cardboard, and slice the required length. Use an exact-o knife to cut the ends, flip over and trim. I've built over a dozen models and my three grandchildren love them.

Posted by yauco 5 years ago


Resin table top

Hello, I want to fill my beer bottle cap table in with clear resin and I am wondering how much resin i will need. I have done the math myself but I think I may be wrong. The table is 85"x36"x.25" (has trim up to the cap height) If i did the math correctly I will need 2 gallons of resin. I just want to confirm before I buy $120 worth of resin. The beer bottle caps are roughly 1"x1"x.25" and there are about 2300 of them. so what i did for math was 85x36 = 3060 (x .25) = 765. 765 / 12 = 63.75 square feet 1 gal of resin covers 32 square feet 2 gals needed correct? but then i tried to plug in how much space the caps take up and if i can get away with just 1 gal. so 2300x.25 = 575 square inches 575/12 =47.91 square feet 63.75-47.91 = 15.84 square feet which means 1 gal of resin would be plenty..... am i doing this math correct? thanks for the help!

Posted by IsaacB1 4 years ago


Potentiometer help

Hello,I'm new here and pretty new to home audio/electronics projects so please bear with me here.I created my first clock amp a while ago using a Minty Amp kit, an Ikea alarm clock and some other bits and bobs. Here are some images:frontbackgutsI failed to take progress pics so couldn't create an instructable for the project but I plan to do that with my next one (I've had a lot of interest with people actually asking to have them made to order - which Mr Minty Amps, Bob Hickman, assures me is cool). Anyway, so I've ordered the parts to make another clock amp but decided to get some extra bits from Maplin.co.uk this time. In teh first amp I used a 250k guitar potentiometer for the volume but it's not sensitive enough and really only has three settings (full, quiet and silent). So, this time I ordered this 1k pot from Maplin. When the pot arrived it has a 50mm shaft which is too long for my project. I assume I can just trim the shaft down so long as I'm careful since it's only plastic. Is that right?Also, because it's not a guitar pot, the shaft is smooth and so the standard control knobs I have will not fit it. Does anyone know of a (cheap) type of control knob that will fit such a pot? I really don't want to have to glue a knob on there.Thanks for your help.

Posted by clockamps 10 years ago


I thought this was interesting: Future Edisons - on PBS

Everybody has a great idea that could change the way we work, the way we live or the way we play. Everyday Edisons documents the development process of 12 inventions and the parallel stories of the people who invented them. Selected from thousands, the 15 Everyday Edisons learn how their extraordinary ideas are taken from a sketch on a napkin to a store shelf.Take Sheldon Levinson and Michael Diep: both like to tinker with concepts for new and improved products, or simply the next crazy fad. Levinson, a true kid-at-heart, is always looking for the next best toy or gadget to make people smile. Taking the traditional favorite bubbles and combining them with the lava lamp, another iconic American gadget, he developed the latest twist on bubble toys.Diep, a refugee from Vietnam, has thousands of inventions in his back pocket, one of which is a new design for a dual cat toy and claw scratcher. As a hectic business consultant, Diep encountered a challenge many of us face lack of time. With limited personal free time, much less time to take his cat to the veterinarian for nail trimmings, Diep incorporated sand paper into his jungle gym to naturally file the nails as it played.Inventing isn't just for adults, the retired or the self-proclaimed inventor. Mark and Cody Fox, brothers and juniors in high school, were tired of paying year-end fines for bent corners and broken spines on their school text books. After combining a few fabric swatches, some hot glue and pieces of plastic, the young men developed a way to prevent the dreaded fines come June.And The Link to the PBS site

Posted by Goodhart 10 years ago


Part of iPad Screen Not Working after Replacement

Hi! I replaced the digitizer on my iPad 2. It was damaged in 2 separate drops and the screen was completely shattered. It was working fine before I replaced it. Took me 2-1/2 hours to get it off and clean up the glass and I had to grind flat two of the corners with my Dremel Tool so the replacement trim and the digitizer would lay flush with the frame. After I installed it, the iPad fired up just fine and was working, just there is a 2-1/2 inch section of the screen (about 4" up from the home button) that wasn't responding to touch. The top 1 inches of the screen worked fine, and the bottom 4" worked fine. I tried reseating the digitizer cable numerous times with no effect. I heard it's supposed to fit into the connector with the white dots flush with the connector, but it won't go in any further, even when I pushed it with my plastic pick. I was very careful in removing it and didn't damage any cables (WiFi, power, volume) or connectors. However, I did rub the sleep/wake sensor with my spudger and roughed it up a bit. It's not completely destroyed, but you can tell it was molested 8( Is it possible that in damaging the sleep/wake sensor that it would make the screen behave that way? Could it be the digitizer being faulty? I got it off Amazon for cheap. I am doing an RMA on it soon. If the replacement digitizer doesn't work, then I don't know what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks. Nick

Posted by NickB6 3 years ago


Feedback Can someone test my Instructable "software for solar reflector design"?

I have an instructable about designing better reflectors for solar cookers. (Better than parabolic dishes). Basically you can design your own dish, and compare it to the parabolic dish and other shapes with the software. On step 1 there is a zipped folder for download. It contains an art of illusion scenefile. Art of illusion is the modeling and animation software I used. It is easier to learn than its competitors and it is free. The folder also contains a html file for almost automatic tabulating of your results and comparison with other reflector shapes. I have "starter" jpg images for when you create series of 10 images for comparison. I hope to put in a help html file too but thats all for now. To test it, you do need to download art of illusion too. I know this type of project can be a bit of a pain but with feedback, I can refine it. And where else do you have free tools to test solar reflectors? https://www.instructables.com/id/Use_software_to_design_a_better_solar_cooker/I hope that this will grow. A guy in Finland has already done a rudimentary "sun engine" that will do the shadows from a day as an extension to this project! That could be used to design passive solar houses and to site vegetable and fruit gardens in the best spots. (Depending on the seasons and day length, shadow patterns from trees and houses are very different). This is not something you can imagine just from surveying a site! Anyway, hopefully I will get some input.The instructable has grown and changed a lot as I have improved the scenefile. There are certainly parts that need trimming now. Hopefully I get round to it in the next couple of days. Brian

Posted by gaiatechnician 9 years ago


Inflatable electric car

Inflatable structures have always fascinated me. They can achieve amazing strength to weight ratios, and only take up space when required. At Instructables, I often sit on an inflated ball!: https://www.instructables.com/id/Ergonomic-work-station/ So, I've fantasized about an inflated car that's just as safe as something more massive, but weighs a mere fraction -- deflate to store or park! XP Vehicles is stepping up and trying to make it real with a direct-ship sub-$5000 electric car: A baffled pressure tube system (think Zodiac rubber boat) provides the actual supporting and protective structure of the vehicle. How safe is it? Recall that NASA recently threw tens of millions of dollars of ultra-sensitive electronics onto the surface of Mars from nearly a mile up and then bounced that same delicate gear for over a mile over boulders and everything worked flawlessly.This was due to the instruments being shrouded in an already expanded inflatable housing that has served as the model for the Whisper body structure. Anyone looking at the warnings on their visor can be concerned about the dangers during airbag inflation so XP simply built a vehicle entirely out of next-generation, always inflated, safety airbags. The engineers for the Whisper are confident you can drive it off a 25-foot cliff without serious injury to its passengers. They claim this is the safest car ever designed for drivers, passengers and pedestrians.Initially designed for the Southeast and Western Asian markets, the car will float in an emergency such as a flood or tsunami and can be assembled by any two people of reasonable competence. The vehicle, similar in appearance to rounded edged sports cars, will be configurable online by each customer much like you build and customize personal computers online today at various major retailers. Colors, trims, features, and styles will be user-configurable on 4 different body-types.

Posted by ewilhelm 10 years ago


a Blucky corpse

stage 1 ok, so i have begun.the Blucky i chose to work on is a bargain basement Blucky, literally. when i made the trek to the Spirit Store and Party City last October, i happened upon some marked down Bluckies. they were 10 bucks, and not guaranteed to not fall apart in the store, lol. so i got a buggy and picked up a couple of them. the cashier pointed out that they were defective, did i still want them? of course i did! 10 bucks instead of 12, for something that i'm going to probably screw up anyway...so the 1st order of business is to fix the defective joints. i decided to disassemble it, and fill the bones with spray foam insulation. then re-assemble. hoping this will meld the pieces together well, and add a little weight. nothing looks faker than a Blucky blowing in the wind!it is laid out on the counter at the shop. the customers kept giving me strange looks.. can't imagine why! so i figure the excess that is oozing out can easily be trimmed away. i do have a back-up plan in case the spray foam won't hold firmly enough. it involves hot glue. hopefully it won't come to that though... the panty hose i plan on applying next should bind things well.STAGE2so today i began stage 2 of the Blucky. cutting his arm and leg bones to more closely resemble an actual body. i used my Dremel, and a razor knife to trim them up. i made a HUGE mess, and had fun. i'm sure i didn't do such a great job on this, but it is my 1st time. STAGE3so today i tackled stage 3 of teh Blucky corpsefication, carving the skull and ribs.ummm. it is MUCH harder to do the ribs than the skull, let me tell you! the dremel tends to 'get away from you' on the long curves of teh ribs. my carpal tunnel didn't help matters any, either! it's kinda crappy looking in fact... i am rather disappointed with myself. luckily they wont all be visible after the pantyhose goes on! the teeth proved to be difficult too. Danny said it looked fine, though. i do have some pics somewhere...we went to Lowe's last night and got some carpet latex to coat it with. the girl in the flooring department thought we were crazy at first, then warmed up and was interested in our projects and plans. she wants us to bring some pics by in fact!here are some of the how-to's i'm using as inspiration:http://hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=8659http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/html/corpsification1.htmlhttp://skullandbone.com/tutorial_02.htmiam kinda mixing and matching techniques. i'll be using paper towels or toilet paper, pantyhose, cotton balls, great foam, maybe cheesecloth and various colors of stains/paints.the hair my Blucky will have is Grade A. i had my long hair cut off, and instead of donating it this time, i plan to utilize it. the hair dresser kept asking me if i was sure i wanted her to cut it, she said it was "beautiful and so healthy!" i imagine i'll have to distress it little so it will look like it belongs on a rotted corpse. LOL!!!!i'm wondering... does anyone ever put remnants of rotten clothing onto their Bluckies they corpsefy?STAGES 4 & 5ok. so i worked on Blucky today at work. first i taped up the arm and leg bones that i had cut out with the dremel. this is probably a useless step... but i think i was trying to stall actually getting going with the scary part- the latex.i used some masking tape i bought at wal mart in the paint department. then i applied the pantyhose. this part caused customers to stop what they were doing and come watch. Josh and I struggled with it until we got 1 set on the right way, and one set on upside down, covering the arms and head. we overlapped the torso with both sets.now came the scariest part. donning the gloves and applying the latex. it stinks! i put down a couple of trash bags and dove in... globbing and smearing until it was covered. i had to warn customers away from it, so Blucky wouldn't stick to them! one guy nearly bumped into it, just walking by. maybe i should have done this step in the back room, away from people. i hope he turns out ok... hair, stain and paint are the next steps, when he dries out. STAGE 6so i stained Blucky. i think i got a lil heavy handed with the stain... but he is my 1st ever, so it's all good! i bought MinWax mahogany gel stain and a large pack of cheap brushes (getting my Lowes connection price of course- dented can)i placed Blucky's feet into a large box. having stained my kitchen cabinets once, i expected a HUGE mess... but the gel is marvelous! NO DRIPS AT ALL!i did get a little splattered onto my left hand and forearm, but that is because i'm a slob, LOL.several customers wandered over to watch, and inquire about him... several seemed genuinely interested in our Halloween obsession! a couple of kids who were there were thrilled, and assured me he looked totally gross! only 1 customer questioned why we were working on Halloween in February. this is a far cry from last year when i was detailing the tombstones at the shop and had people looking at me as if i were crazy... maybe i'm rubbing off on them, or maybe they are used to my eccentrics by now, LOL!Josh and i left the shop at 6, and Danny stayed over a few minutes, (he's painting truck parts in the back room) he said when he walked back through the empty, half-lighted, locked shop he caught Blucky out of teh corner of his eye and it spooked him! a sure sign of a job well done! anyway, i suppose Stage 7 for Blucky will be eyes... or LED's. definitely an LED in the chest cavity. this will be up to Danny, as i don't do wiring (yet, lol) so the ball is in his court!my motto? the couple who haunts together, stays together!

Posted by susanfromhauntspace 10 years ago


have i got 1 good driver or 3 bad ones

Hi all, nice to be here I have just finished building my first cnc router and about to start actually doing something with it, during my build I somehow managed to blow up 2 grbl boards and 6 drivers, hey note to myself, don't connect voltages when tired late at night also I have a problem, I think, thanks to YouTube I found how to set the voltage using the trimmer pots on the driver boards, I set all 4 drivers initially to 0.75 volt and it all works and tests fine, apart from having to buy 2 more driver boards when the trim pots fell off that is apart from one of the stepper drivers powers one motor (Y axis) and when it finishes working it goes absolutely solid locked up and sounds like it is groaning, the other 3 are firm but not locked up I tried increasing the voltage on the 3 looser stepper motors to 1.0 volt and it didn't seem to make a lot of difference, but to get the solid stepper driver down to the same stiffness I have had to drop the voltage down to 0.4 volt and it did stop groaning and loosened a bit I swapped over the motors, same result, moved the driver to another spot on the grbl board exactly the same effect on a different motor, so it looks to me like it is the DRV8825 driver board is this a case of I have 1 bad board and 3 good boards? or 1 good board and 3 bad boards ? any help would be more than welcome info on my cnc build and components below basically the cnc has a bed of 900mm x 900mm and is pure self build made up of parts found laying around my workshop, rails bearings lead screws etc, and I added in a new Arduino uno (of which I am novice) and a new GRBL board and ended up using DRV8825 drivers, stepper motors are used (eBay) 4 x identical minebea 23LM-C343-14V wired from 6 wire down to 4 wire with pairs being red & yellow and pair 2 being blue & orange, which I believe is correct LINK TO STEPPER MOTOR SPEC SHEET please correct me if I have made a mistake I have used links to set all drivers to 1/32 micro stepping, also set the mm rate so it is exact at 500mm travel, and set max speed at a sensible 400mm per minute as I am not really expecting supersonic speed and all is nice and quiet, nothing straining I have paired 2 of the stepper motors via the grbl to drive the X axis and used the clone spare on the GRBL to make that work, which it does marvellous The CNC structure does need strengthening up as mostly built on ply at the moment, but everything works as expected, the spindle is a nice almost new RotaZip high speed tool that I bought new about 4 years ago and only used it on one job so keeping stuff does come in handy even if wifey says it doesn't Look forward to sharing info on here as I learn more

Posted by IanT107 9 months ago


Upgrade of Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper, MKB v20 included, GPU Transcoder

Upgrade of Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper, MKB v20 included, GPU Transcoder What's New: Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper Version 1.0.1.1 1. Added the support for AACS MKB v20 discs. 2. Fixed the bug for those BD+ discs collapsed when conversion Key Features Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper supports Full Disk Copy function, which can help you remove copy protections from your commercial Blu-ray discs or DVD discs, and back up the Blu-ray or DVD movie files to your hard drive or other removable mediums with the Blu-ray or DVD’s original structures easily and fastly. It can convert Blu-ray/DVD disc to a wide range of output files, like MPG, MKV, MOV, FLV, 3GP, MPEG, AVI, MP3, AC3, and other HD or SD video/audio formats for playing on iPad, iPhone 4, Droid X, Samsung Galaxy S, Nexus S, Archos, BlackBerry, Zune, Creative Zen, WDTV, and more at 5x faster speed without quality loss based on the latest NVIDIA CUDA technology. The Blu-ray conversion displays Blu-ray and DVD files in two mode, Title Mode and File mode. In the Title Mode, you could view the specific titles and chapters of the Blu-ray and DVD disc files, and choose those Blu-ray or DVD content you would like to convert according to the titles. Moreover, it can keep the ripped or converted Blu-ray/DVD files without video/audio sync problems for its perfect video and audio sync technology. Ripping Blu-ray and DVD disc with the selected subtitle or audio line is available. Even you are able to convert Blu-ray or DVD movies with the forced subtitles if you like. Batch BD/DVD conversion is also supported. For those users who prefer to edit Blu-ray and DVD movies, you could do some editing jobs by using its editor function. For instance, you can specify the video length of your Blu-ray and DVD file or cut off those unwanted areas and black edges of the Blu-ray/DVD movies to convert. Even you are able to add company logo, text/image/video watermarks and effects on your Blu-ray and DVD files. Another key feature of Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper is to support adjusting video/audio parameters of the output format to get the better video quality you perfer. For example, you could set to rip Blu-ray/DVD disc movie with 5.1 surround sound. To set the wanted aspect ratio is available as well. Version History Foxreal Blu-Ray Ripper V1.0.1.0 (December 7, 2010) 1. Foxreal announces the release of Foxreal Blu-ray Ripper. 2. Able to remove copy protection, region code, AACS and MKB V19 from Blu-ray and DVD discs to make Full Blu-ray or DVD disc (1:1) copy and backup to hard drive. 3. Adopt perfect video and audio sync technology to help you rip and convert Blu-ray/DVD files without video/audio sync problems. 4. Support NVIDIA CUDA acceleration technology which makes the ripping speed 5X faster. 5. Rip and convert Blu-ray/DVD disc to all popular video and audio formats like MPG, MKV, MOV, FLV, 3GP, MPEG, AVI, MP3, AC3, and other HD or SD formats. 6. Rip Blu-ray movie for playback on various devices like iPad, iPhone 4, iPod, Apple TV, WD TV, PS3, Xbox/Xbox 360, Galaxy Tab, Galaxy S, Droid X, Droid Pro, Nokia N8, BlackBerry Torch 9800, Nexus One, Zune, and more. 7. Convert Blu-ray/DVD file for editing on Adobe Premiere, Sony Vegas, Final Cut Express, Final Cut Pro, iMoive, Pinnacle Studio, etc. 8. Allow to perfect and optimize the output with powerful editing function including trimming, cropping, watermark/effect, deinterlacing, audio replace, etc. Official Web: http://www.foxreal.com/ Discount Page: http://www.foxreal.com/christmas-sale-of-foxreal-software-with-special-discounts/ Facebook: www.facebook.com/Foxreal Twitter: http://twitter.com/FoxrealSoftware Free Download: http://hotfile.com/dl/92257675/6e16e0d/blu_ray_ripper_setup.exe.html

Posted by sparrow0508 7 years ago


SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard for PC!!! Handmade please look!!

Check out this eBay auction for the following SteamPunk Typewriter Keyboard!!http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=170344004923&ssPageName;=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123"SteamPunk" Typewriter Keyboard for PCThis is a custom made "Steampunk" Typewriter Keyboard that is fully functional and works with any PC! I hand made this over the course of many weeks of hard and meticulous work, using the guts of a very solid Logitech PC keyboard system which I completely rebuilt over many stages, into this solid, beautiful, and unique piece of antique technological art! Three separate sets of antique Royal glass typewriter keys make up all of the keys besides the handmade brass keys (described below). I can personally guarantee this keyboard is completely unique, and you won't find anything like it out on the market! This new beautiful style of combining the old Victorian look with new high-tech products is becoming very popular from young teens looking to be creative and inspired to rich business CEO's wanting something beautiful to match their office. Think about the all the joy and beauty this would bring to your life (not to mention bragging rights!). Right now is your chance to own a piece or art and history which you can put to use everyday!This keyboards design consists of:Solid glass keys from a three different sets of original antique Royal early 1900's typewriters.Hand and naturally aged copper top and bottom rails.Custom, hand punched, leather backing (perfectly fitted and stretched over the top and seamed underneath).Custom bent steel side brackets (which have been properly welded to the copper rails to make a very solid keyboard).Beautiful antique cloth wire loom covering computer connector.Hand made brass Esc key, F keys (done in roman numerals), Arrows, and nine keys above Arrows (because they didn't make any of these keys on antique typewriters).Brief "Steampunk" HistorySteampunk is a sub-genre of fantasy and speculative fiction that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used usually the 19th century, and often Victorian era England but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date.Functionality and BeautyAs I keep strongly pointing out, not only does this piece of techno-art look beautiful, but it also works as beautifully too! All the keys were lubricated then meticulously aligned and ergonomically angled with high strength silicon glue, which will stand up to many years of hard use! Keys that weren't available (such as the F keys and arrows) I custom made from brass which was then clear coated for years of protection.A Brief Fabrication ProcessThis whole keyboard started with an idea in my head one day, and then turned into numbers of sketches and design ideas until I filled my notebook and decided it was time to make it! I started with a high quality Logitech PC keyboard, and gutted it down to the bare parts. Then after trimming all the borders off the top frame I perfectly aligned the key frame back together with now a flat surface. Next I had to hand cut all the key tops off and level them for attachment of the Royal typewriter keys. During this process I custom made the copper/steel rails and side pieces making sure the height and angle was ergonomically correct. Next was the custom punching of the leather backing which was quite difficult to align perfectly, but came out beautifully! Finally the smaller things like the light posts, cloth wire loom, painting and copper aging, and electrical work was done. (P.S. Like I said, this is a very brief summary of the complete process! Many, many steps took place during this fabrication!)Level, Sturdy, and Desk Scratching Friendly!This frame was professionally welded together by a hired welder who meticulously made sure was level and solid. Every detail about this keyboard was thoroughly thought through, down to the hidden padded bases so it won't slide around on your desk or scratch it!You Wont Find Anything Like It!Obviously you can tell by now that this is a very custom piece of art that you have the chance to own and display in your office or home! You can't imagine the beauty of this in real life, pictures just simply do no justice! A few other people have attempted to make such type of typewriter keyboards that consist of the original ugly plastic base and just changed keys.... this keyboard goes above and beyond the bar and you will not be disappointed!Reduced Environmental ImpactAs always, I tried to stay eco-conscious while designing and fabricating this keyboard. It was designed with the following features to reduce its environmental impact:High quality polyurethane based Leather alternative (no animals harmed!)Recycled copper pipingOriginal and restored Royal typewriter keys.Highly recyclable parts (although you'll never want to get rid of this!)

Posted by maxter32 9 years ago


Longest Comment on Instructables (Possibly)

Https://www.instructables.com/answers/What-essential-tools-should-I-include-in-my-dorm-r/The longest comment on this site is one by Guardian Fox on the "What survival tools should I keep in my dorm room tool box?" If anyone can find a longer one, please PM me the link.Keep in mind, he typed this with his own fingers, not by holding down the paste command for a day. If that's what you want, then go to https://www.instructables.com/community/the_forum_for_spam/ Source: Guardian FoxFor the dorm room, you only need a few tools. You're not going to be renovating, and you're not going to be doing much woodworking. You aren't allowed to do anything at all to the room beyond hanging pictures (if that), and most dorms forbid power-tools in the rooms no matter what you're use them for. Here's my take on what you'll need for the dorm. I've included a lot of things that seem unnecessary, and you can probably live without some of it... but the kit will get you through nearly any problems you'll encounter at school or in an apartment:-At least one decent multi-bit screwdriver. Look for something with a comfortable grip and sturdy construction. Avoid gimmicks like built in flashlights. I recommend the Piquiq brand which comes in a few different sizes and can be found in many hardware stores in North America. You can usually get their three-piece set for less than $20.-A set of jeweler's screwdrivers. Get a cheap set because these little things WILL get lost. Look for something with at least a few unusual bits as well as the usuals. Get a 30ish-piece set for less than $20. Most handy if you've got a thing for messing with your electronics, but also great for changing a watch battery, fixing glasses, etc.-A basic hammer. Nothing fancy needed here, and I've always preferred an ordinary wooden-handled hammer anyway. Go for a smaller hammer if you only plan on hanging pictures, get a regular-sized hammer if you plan on using it to do real work later on. Stanley is a good brand with decent prices, but there are lots of good budget-priced hammers out there. Drop by a hardware store and pick one that feels good in your hand. Less than $20 for a brand name. $10 or less for a bargain hammer. Make sure the head of the hammer is securely attached to the handle, no matter what brand you pick but a little tiny wiggle is ok. Hang a picture or tap a few finishing nails into a small project. Very handy, even when you use it wrong.-Two utility knives with snap-off blades. One with the small size, and the other with the larger size. There are hundreds of brands of these on the market, and a lot of them are junk so spring for an Olfa (the best i.m.o.) if you can find it. Richard is a decent low-cost brand which is often found in paint stores. Again, avoid gimmicks. The most important thing you need to know is if the locking mechanism works well or not, as a utility knife can become dangerous if the blade is going to slide around while you're using it. Good knives can be around $10-20 each. Cheap, "disposable" knives can be found for less than a dollar, but be sure to buy something that seems sturdy. Add a self-healing cutting mat from the dollar store, and while you're there get a metal ruler for cutting straight lines. Smaller utility knives are good for light-duty applications like trimming photographs or opening packages. Larger utility knives are good for harder work like cutting lots of cardboard-A measuring tape. You probably already have a ruler for school, but a measuring tape is much more useful for around the house. Get a 16' tape for good versatility. Choose one that has a sturdy housing and a tape that slides in and out easily. Bennett is a good budget brand you can find for less than $10 and I recommend theirs over any of the name-brand tapes out there. If you can't find that brand, go to the building supplies store and ask what brand the clerks and outside staff use around the shop. You could skip this one during college, but you'll need it one day and it's the kind of thing you can make uses for.-Pliers. For around the house and crafting I find a pair of long-nose pliers more handy than a pair of linesman's pliers, but both tools have their place. Locking pliers (aka vice grips) are also super-handy. Get one or a set, but avoid the bargain brands. Look to spend at least $7 each for basic pliers, and at least $12 for a good pair of locking pliers. -An adjustable wrench (aka thumb-wrench). Pick a smaller-sized model for your toolbox. Most of the nuts and bolts in the house will be small anyway. Go for something that opens up to 1" or 1 1/2" Brand isn't an issue, but make sure it operates smoothly and won't jam or work loose. Spend less than $10. -Scissors. A usable, general purpose pair of scissors can be found at the dollar stores or in an office supply store. Make sure they open and close smoothly and that the blades don't wiggle. Look for one with a metal screw at the pivot so you can tighten it if it works loose. If you're using it routinely for cutting fabric or any other specific task, spend some extra money and get the right kind for the job or at least a good pair of general purpose ones. Less than $5 for cheap ones, $20+ for quality ones.-Sewing notions; A pack of needles, a roll of white thread, a roll of black thread, and a roll of transparent thread, a few safety pins and any spare buttons you find. That should get you through any wardrobe fixes you may need. Each item in the kit should be a dollar or less, and you can save money by starting with a pre-made kit from a dollar store and adding a few of your own extras. Also highly recommended is this, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1352 , but keep in mind it is cheap for a reason and needs constant attention.-A soldering iron if it's allowed in your room, and only if you're working with or fixing electronics or jewelry. Get a scrap piece of plywood or something to use as a work surface. $15 for a basic 30w iron. Another $10 for a safer stand.-A toolbox that holds everything. I like the ones that double as a step-stool, which you can find for $20-$30 if you look hard enough (mastercraft and rubbermaid brands). You might like something different, but small plastic toolboxes and even small plain steel ones are all quite cheap so go look and see what you like. You can even use your imagination and just use a plastic tote, a tacklebox, a backpack/messenger bag, shoebox, etc. Just pack your tools in it neatly and avoid putting the heavy or sharp ones on top of the ones that might break.-A plunger. If your dorm room has a bathroom, this is a must even if you never have to use it. It's an insurance policy against one hell of a mess. $10-$15.Anyway, that's all I can think of for tools. Craftier folks need more gear, and less DIY-prone folks need less. Use your best judgment and buy only what you can afford and might actually use. Pick up a few fasteners and adhesives too, usually as needed. Here's what you should probably keep on hand.-A package of assorted picture-hangers and hooks (if hanging pictures is allowed in your dorm). Buy a pack at the dollar store. A few extra finishing nails and small screws would be a good addition to this as well.-Thumbtacks. Buy a pack at the dollar store or office supply store.-Scotch tape, packing tape, duct tape (or Gorilla tape).-Twist ties. Get a bunch from a pack of trash bags.-A package of superglue. Rather than one large tube, get the pack with several tiny tubes so you don't lose your entire supply when one dries up.-Craft wire. Use it wherever you might use a twist tie, but also can be bent into whatever shape you need to become a tool or a piece of art. Dollar stores carry rolls of it often at 2/$1

Posted by M4industries 9 years ago