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submersible fluorescent light Answered

i am wanting to build this without the $189 price tag. i have found a site with the plans and pvc fittings, here , but not saving much money there either. anyone got any ideas?
i will be running on a 12v battery


The easiest way to do this would be to get a HUGE amount to green LEDs and stuff them in a clear plastic tube, get the proper resistors soldered to the LEDs

i thought about led's, but the main thing is the fluorescent light attracts plankton, that attracts baitfish, that attracts the fish i'm trying to catch

. What is producing the light shouldn't be important; the spectrum of the light produced is what counts. . I don't know much about plankton, but I'd be willing to bet a nickel that they aren't that particular about the color of the light. Judging by the links you posted, green works best.

yeah, green is the last color absorbed in the water, so u get better lighting

. Excellent idea! Low voltage, low power, and maybe a smaller package (depends on how many "a HUGE amount" is).

maybe some of those 1 watt ones, one shining in each direction

. My first thought was that 4-5 high-power LEDs might do the job, but, for omni-directional use, a HUGE amount, all pointing in a different direction, might work better in an high turbidity environment. But then again, maybe the turbidity would help disperse the light. . Not motivated enough to do any research. heehee

you could fill the tube with some sort of translucent gel or get a couple LED light strips and stuff them into the tube

. All you need is two PVC caps, a length of clear/green-tinted PVC, and a watertight fitting for cable entry through one of the caps. You can probably find the parts locally for less money than what the greenlightfishing site charges. If your hardware store doesn't have the watertight cable fitting, try an industrial electrical supply. . BTW, fluorescent lights run at pretty high voltage - the 12V supply will be stepped up inside the light fixture by the ballast (electrical, not the nautical type). Be very careful when handling the unit when it is wet.

no. water has to come in contact with something conductive thats under voltage to make trouble use a ballast with full isolation between supply and lamp. (in 12 V ballast just use a complete transformer and not auto) this way youre way less likely to get shocked if you touch the high voltage side you can seal the thing with silicone / hot glue (makes it hard to change a lamp) or stream air into the fitting with compressor (as long as compressor is running water can't enter)

. By 'unit,' I meant the PVC housing and I should have added 'while the power is turned on.' If everything is watertight, it's not a problem, but "the best laid plans of mice and men often go awry."

probably better go ahead with the tube though, huh. i guess i could start with buying the light and the ballist, and go with the tube and fittings and silicone from there

. And make sure your power cable has a watertight jacket.