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table saw fence help? Answered

hello my fellow indestructible friends i brought a table saw this the first table saw i got and the fence is not completely strait it goes outwards by a couple of mm or more is this right many thanks for ant response here is the table saw http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb674tas-254mm-table-saw-230-240v/9486j  please tell me if its okay or if not how to fix thanks paul


Some fences are adjustable. I can't see the detail of yours to know, otherwise, probably move the top on this little saw. Big saws you move the blade assembly, this probably not.

If you don't think you'll be removing the fence, I'd use washers to angle it to the right posiition.

thanks that seems like a good idea I was going to use paper but washers sems to be the better option in the nuts that hold the fence than

I think you can make shims out of plastic bottles, it's supposed to work well

hi can you show me a example of what you mean many thanks paul


1 year ago

When you say the fence is off measured against what ??

I assumed you measured against the saw blade, Yes ?

I think that is what matters...

If you cannot adjust the fence, you have to adjust the blade_connected_to_motor_shaft which is screwed to the table underneath..


1 year ago

You need to rotate the motor mounting where it is attached to the saw table.

A lot of work for a couple millimeters...

hello thanks for the quick reply I don't get quite what you mean here is some photos if it is any help many t


As iceng notes, one has to first align the saw power train assembly when one gets a new table saw.

One way to tell if it's the fence is to slide it to one of the rail grooves to use as a straight edge. Engage the fence clamp. The fence should be parallel to the groove.

If not, it's the fence, if so, it's the power train. (motor, blade, and motor carrier assembly.

As Steve suggested, many fences have a limited amount of adjust-ability to overcome misalignment. fwiw...Most however, with or without micro-adjusters are perfectly fine. It's usually the power train. In any case, as I recall (for my present saw and most I've used in the past, it's a matter of dialing in pressure pads that ride on the side rails. No big deal. Use the machined groove on either side of the blade area as your metric for correct alignment while adjusting.

Note: the power train adjustments are a bit of a pita first time out. Try to not get impatient. You'll be adjusting both blade yaw (right left from true..the first adjustment) and pitch (the "0 degree" perpendicularity). Follow the manual's setup instructions for specifics on your saw.

Pitch is a convenience to some degree (haha), as it can usually be compensated even if slightly out (as long as the dead end position of the adjuster gets you to or beyond perpendicularity...after all, most saws have pretty rinky-dink angle guides anyway), but the former adjustment (blade yaw) requires patience, carefulness, and often multiple iterations to get it right, and it's error cannot be compensated very easily in most cases, so it's best to spend the time to do it, do it right, and then do it again occasionally as a maintenance step to make sure you continue to get best performance. It will go out over time with usage for most saws, due to the continuous impact of fresh material and various torques it encounters during normal operation so eventually, you'll find that ripping a long board becomes "testy" over time. (mine needs calibration...when ripping, my boards tend to want to go right, which means a lot of additional feather boards to keep things going correctly, BUT it also means I'm torquing my saw to keep thing going straight (stealing power by friction), and it leaves marks on the ripped board I either have to accept or take sometimes considerable time to sand smooth. On a dense, hard piece of Xx4 pine, it means the motor stalls more easily than it should. FYI

hey thanks for the reply and here is some pictures of it can help you m