Search for Mouser in Topics


Mouser

Mouser is my favorite Electronic place ot get my components, it's interface is nicer than many others, along with their price and shipping and responsivness. There's only two things that I don't like about it. - The sub catagories are sometimes weird so you don't always know where you are going to find stuff, like 10 V is different from 10V is different from 10Volts is different from 10 Volts. -Another thing I don't like (and why I'm posting this to see if there isa solution) is that you can't sort items by price, for I always want the lowest costing component, and I usually find it after sifting though several pages, but that's a pain in the but. Is there a way of sorting by price?

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


Mouser order help? Answered

I am trying to order an LED bar graph from mouser. I found this one one a little confused about the quantity I will receive. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSA-LXB10IW-RA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvkC18yXH9iIr4rFpDbarZkRqZC99eIyKI%3d It says Standard Pack Qty:19 does that mean that for 4.04 I will get 19 of those bar graphs? Thank you

Question by Eax5    |  last reply


Electronics Parts Suppliers

I'm curious about where instructables members purchase their electroincs parts. I've played around with electronics since high school, but I've always been in an environment where parts are "free" (aka paid for by others). Now that I'm branching out on my own, I'd like to know the best place to buy parts. I did a quick comparison of Jameco and Mouser on my blog. http://www.thelumberlab.com/2011/catalog-fight-jameco-vs-mouser I'd greatly appreciate it if you all could share your thoughts on this. Thanks so much.

Topic by DUlschm    |  last reply


Switch buying confusion. What is the difference between On - Off - On and (On) - Off - On? Answered

I am having some trouble buying switches from mouser. I need a toggle SPDT switch that has an On - On (on a different line) type workings (like seen here under SPDT). The problem is Mouser has so many different options in their "switch function" filter. Which one(s) should I use? What do the Parentheses mean? Does it mean Momentary or Something else? What about the "None" seen in a few options? What's up with "MOM"? Here is a link to the page I'm talking about.

Question by GenAap    |  last reply


Relay with small in size

I have a relay with an Outline Dimensions:(15.5x10.5x11.8)mm 5V,3A--> Switching voltage 230VACDatasheet is given above..could you suggest the similar capacity with small in size (not a solid state relay) relay ??i was search website like MOUSER,LCSC .didn't find any suitable one.

Topic by shavanwe0    |  last reply


10 Best Electronics Suppliers

First off, I would like to give notice to Electronics Projects for Dummies for most of this info.I wanted to make a site with many of the best sites to buy Electrical Parts, because it can sometimes be a strenuous activity. I have 10 here, because if you can't find something on one online store, you might be able to find it on the next.Reynolds ElectronicsReynolds Electronics is a good supplier of remote control components, micro controllers, and robot kits and parts. One feature that stands out on Reynolds Web site is the clear and helpful project/circuit tutorials. You can also find links for educational books on topics such as robotics and microcontrollers.Hobby EngineeringHobby Engineering is a sit slanted towards the hobbyist. This site carries some useful items that can be harder to find from other providers who are catered towards the corporate customer. it also has a good supply of micro-controllers, robot kits, parts, ad miscellaneous components and tools.All ElectronicsAll Electronics has an incredible selection of many of the useful items you would use to build your project. They are very inexpensive and it is easy to find your way around the site. This site also has a "consumer comments" section where the consumers get to talk about the quality of the product and more. (Thank you westfw)BG MicroBG Micro is a cool site for rare and pretty neat gadgets as well as a nice selection of alot of the items one will need for a weekend project. There is also a very nice search engine at the top which lets you search for an item you can't find on the left. (Thank you Las Vegas)Jameco ElectronicsJameco has a very nice site catalog. It's not very big that you sspect a forest was sacrificed in its making. I has great color photos with relatively easy to find components. This is one supplier wih a low price fuarantee which means that if you can show a part offered for less, the lesser price is honored. jameco also provides lower priced generic products as well as name brands.DigiKeyDigi-Key is a large distrbutor of components from various manufacturers, offering a very large catalog with lots and lots of choices. However, the site uses small print that might be hard to ead. The catalog includes line drawings but o part photos, but it does do an excellant job of labeling the parts. Overall, Digi-Key has a huge selection of products, but they might need a little looking to find them.loading...Mouser ElectronicsMouser ElectronicsAnother large distributor of components from various manufacturers is Mouser. I like how Mouser's site allows you to compile separate orders for different projects. You can come backa s many times as you like to complete your order and make your purchase. We also like how Mouser label parts because the labels are easy to read and provide alot of information about the specific part.Like Digi-Key, Mouser provides a very large catalog.RadioshackRadioshackEveryone knows Radioshack!. This electronics convenience store is pretty much like any food convenience store: CONVENIENT BUT EXPENSIVE. If you are stuck at 4:30 on a Sunday afteroon needing a small part to keep working on your project, this store is right for you. Be aware that not all radioshack are equal.Fry's ElectronicsFry's ElectronicsFry's has stores in nine states, and if you are lucky enough to live near one you can browse the isles in person. Fry's stocks all kinds of electronics and parts including an EXCELLANT selection of IC chips.Goldmine ElectronicsGoldmine ElectronicsIf you are in the market for bargains, try Electronic Goldmine.. This online store often offers sepcials that can save you money. Based in Scottsdale, Arizona, Electronics Goldmine offers great help with international orders and also offers wholesale items on auction on eBay.Quick Tip: Try clicking Electronic Goldmine Treasure Ball for the best deals!FuturlecFuturelec offers a very nicely done site with color photos of the parts that makes for easy browsin. Futurelec also offers semicnductor news links and also links to recently added parts to help you keep on the top of the latest and greatest as well as PCB design and manufacturing services.[htpp://maplin.co.uk Maplin]MaplinThe British suppplier Maplin has stores scattered around the U.K. and also offers an online store.Unlike electronic gadgets and appliances that operate on different voltages in European contries, electornic components are pretty standard. Although Maplin will ship overseas, you might want to check out U.S. Suppliers first.SparkfunSparkfun was originally a PCB Manufacturer, and turned in to a company well beyond their expectations! They have a large variety of PCBs, LEDs, and MANY more everyday electronics components. The site is well organized with so much to choose from!

Topic by Brennn10    |  last reply


What's the opposite of a header called?

What's the opposite of a header called (in electronics)? Like if I was searching mouser, what would I call it? A header receptacle? I dunno Basically I want a 2x3 socket thingamadousy for programming AVRs. In my ned project space is a factor and I need the 2x3 instead of 2x5

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


component recognition software? Answered

Finding datasheets for stuff i have lying around is a PITA!!! i also can't find datasheets for some stuff i scavenge because i don't know what they are. is there a sort of "facial recognition software" but for electronic components? also is there a program that indexes the characteristics of components i have, kind of like mouser's or digi-key's website?

Question by the judge    |  last reply


Any soldering tips for soldering a VQFN-16 IC? Answered

Its tiny, ≈ 4mm, has 16 pads Have to try to hand solder it. have some really thin solder i think its .2mm? Or should i go with more of a heat gun method (would have to buy a cheap heatgun, would hairdryer work??) chip might also go by 16-VQFN 16-HVQFN, 16-SQFN, 16-DHVQFN its chip TPS61090- both on digikey and mouser thanks

Question by astroboy907    |  last reply


diode change

I'm building a picmicro programmer, and I'm fcollowing the schematics from this from sparkfunhttp://www.olimex.com/dev/images/pic-pg2c-sch.gifthey want a BZV55C5V1 diode, but the closest thing that I could find on mouser was a BZX55C5V1 diodehere's the link for the BZV55C5V1 datasheet, just click one, they're all the samehttp://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/B/Z/V/5/BZV55C5V1.shtmlhere's the link for the BZX55C5V1 datasheethttp://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/BZ/BZX55C5V1.pdfPROBLEM SOLVED THANKS TO THE CITIZENS OF INSTRUCTABLES

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


Quick electronic question

I need a 20k R2R resistor network (for making another project on the net) and I'm ordering from mouser and the only ones they have are out of stock, so I want to build one. I know how to hook the resistors relative to one another (a quick look at wikipedia solved that), the only thing I'm wondering about it the values... To make a 20k R2R network do I need: 10k and 20k resistors? or 20k and 40k resistors? I think it's 10k and 20k, but I'm not sure

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


Changing DC Circuit to Pulsed DC

I am interested in changing my fixed current DC circuit to pulsed to increase the brightness of my LEDs. I really have no direction when it comes to making this pulsed circuit. I have looked into precision full wave rectifiers that I think are what I would be looking for. I am not sure what type of pulse width I would want. The one that I think would be ideal would be a Mouser DF01M, I am not sure if a pulse width of 200 microseconds is fast enough.

Topic by JimmyWatson30    |  last reply


Changing DC Circuit to Pulsed DC

I am interested in changing my fixed current DC circuit to pulsed to increase the brightness of my LEDs. I really have no direction when it comes to making this pulsed circuit. I have looked into precision full wave rectifiers that I think are what I would be looking for. I am not sure what type of pulse width I would want. The one that I think would be ideal would be a Mouser DF01M, I am not sure if a pulse width of 200 microseconds is fast enough.

Topic by MarcusJubin    |  last reply


Small LCD

I've been working on the OggVOSH... I was planning the screen & touch-wheel board when I realized that the screen, and the backup were both too big, ironically, was too big in BOTH dimensions!I've checked mouser & digikey, and neither have any LCDs that would fit in the space. By any chance, does anyone know of a really small color LCD? The board is 28x48mm, and I can't have it take up the whole board (but some stuff *can* go beneath it, I just need to account for the connector)

Topic by zachninme    |  last reply


How can I make a simple ultrasonic dog repeller?

I have been chased by some neighborhood dogs while biking in the last few months, and I need some defense. I don't like the mace or whatever sprays, and I certainly don't want to hit them with anything. I know there are some ultrasonic gizmos but they are awfully expensive. I have found some ultrasonic (25KHZ and above) transmitters at Mouser, and I was wondering if anyone could help with how to make my own portable dog stopper. Please Save My Ankles!

Question by darryllicht    |  last reply


Where can I find a magnetic power connector? Answered

I'm working on a project that would greatly benefit from a magnetic power connector similar to the MagSafe variety that come standard with new MacBook laptops. All I want is the connector itself, the male and female side. It doesn't have to be MagSafe brand and it would be better if the magnet wasn't very strong. It should support about 30cm of power cord. This is for 24V DC. I've looked on Ebay and Mouser with no luck. Does anyone know where to get these connectors? I'd rather not buy and destroy the Apple branded components that include the connector, not least for the reason that it would be unnecessarily expensive.

Question by laserjocky    |  last reply


Good source for foot switches? Answered

I'm looking to build a stomp box of sorts, and am having trouble finding a good source for foot (stomp) switches that will hold up.  Neither Mouser nor Digikey seem to have something appropriate, at least based on my searches.  I found DIYstompboxes.com, which seems to have decent enough prices ($5.00 a pop). So my question is, what's the best (taking into account reliability, speed, quality, and best deal mainly) place to get a foot switch that will hold up without breaking the bank? Also, when I say foot switch, I mean a button.  Not a pedal.

Question by Skidion    |  last reply


Looking for pre-printed circuit boards

I've been looking around the web trying to find a place that sells ready made circuit boards, plated and pre-drilled; like what you would find in Radio Shack but with a larger selection. I've looked at Mouser and their selection is rather limited. What I need is a circuit board about 1" square for mounting tactile buttons on it.  Like I said I've been looking all over and all I can find are websites that make custom circuit boards, but nothing already made. So anyone know of a place where I can buy already made circuit boards?

Topic by wickednick    |  last reply


connector name (see pic)

I'm trying to replace the antenna on my Sprint Airave to get more distance (more on that later). i am trying to find the connector it uses on digikey. ive attached a picture. if you can tell me what this part is called, i'd greatly appreciate it. bonus: if you can get me a digikey/mouser/newark part number, i will post an instructable on range-boosting an Airave! also, i havent examined the pcb extensively yet, but if i slap a giant antenna on this board, will i have to put some sort of load inductance? i havent worked with near-Ghz frequencies before, so i dont know how sensitive these things are to loading. thanks, Daniel

Topic by samurai1200    |  last reply


Help finding TOTX142L and TORX142L TOSLINK connectors?

I'm working on an audio project that uses optical inputs and outputs.  The components I really need to get the most out of this project are two 25Mbps TOSLINK connectors: TOTX142L (transmitter) and TORX142L (receiver).  Unfortunately, both are discontinued and I'm having a heck of a time finding either old stock or a comparable replacement!  I've tried all the major distributors (Digikey, mouser, etc) and have even sent out RFQs (request for quote) to various old-stock warehouses in the USA and abroad.  I've got a small lead on the receiver but the transmitter remains elusive. What really confuses me is the fact that there are still consumer products being manufactured today that use a device of this class, so where are these guys getting their parts??

Question by jeff-o    |  last reply


Good place to get really good LEDs?

I have recently discovered that CREE has released some new XHP class LEDs awhile ago, and compared the the XML line that I have been a fan of, these ones seem to blow those out of the water. However, they are still somewhat $$$, although not too much. I would like to get my grubby evil hands on a few of the XHP70s, XHP50's, and XHP35s, but the "good" ones are out of stock on mouser and digikey. On amazon there are a few listings but they are overpriced and they do not list the binning or CRI of them. Any other reputable LED sellers? I want to see how well these would work to retrofit into either an existing el-cheapo XM-L flashlight as an upgrade, or a homemade lantern/portable floodlight. I basically want 80% or 90% CRI range and Neutral / warm white, preferably neutral. As you see I am not overly picky, but I want them for good usable indoor light quality. I have been impressed by the XML light output, but not the 6000K 70% CRI crap quality light like the ones I have produce. These LEDs are roughly twice as bright for the same physical size, and about ~30-50% more efficient. What I do want, however, is the highest binning available in it's class (aka the best ones.) Not for any particular reason (other than maybe bragging rights lol), but because I just can't bring myself to order comparatively less efficient ones with low/medium CRIs for pretty much the same basic price when I know damn good and well there are better ones for sale for only pennies more. Feels like I get cheated. :( Also if I order from mouser or digikey, I guess that means I would need to mount them to a star PCB myself, that might be a challenge. Since I do not have solder paste or a proper reflow oven, I prefer to not have to do that.

Question by -max-    |  last reply


I need help identifying a hall effect sensor

I'm working with a brushless motor with a 3 hall effect sensor feedback ring and I messed up one of the sensors while removing some potting. I need a replacement. I've tried contacting the manufacture of the motor but they won't respond. The sensor looks like a flattened version of a TO-92 with chamfered edges instead of a rounded face to indicate the front side and .1" lead spacing. The only markings are U18 020 (or possibly U1B). It looks like it might be from http://www.utc-ic.com/product/db/hall.php but the part numbers don't all match although the datasheet looks like it might match. http://www.scribd.com/doc/52101789/U18-Hall-Sensor-Fan It doesn't seem like places like DigiKey or Mouser sells Unisonic parts so I may need an compatible alternative which would be fine If I can figure out the specs.

Question by AnotherBrian    |  last reply


looking for 200VA transformer with many taps Answered

For awhile, I have worked on a linear power supply design, and I think I have a circuit which is pretty stable with 47uF output capacitance, capable of 100mV to 15V and at least 5A (or more) on a single rail supply, and I can of course also mirror the circuit to generate a negative voltage rail fairly easily. However, to ensure my supply can regulate power efficiently without dissipating too much power (say 50W max TDP) I need a good few voltage tabs, maybe about 5V increments. -20V, -15V, -10V, -5V, 0V, 5V, 10V, 15V, 20V. (unless I do some sort of voodoo with the rectification and inverting voltages, IDK. Ideas?) I added my design for something that generates voltages between -25V and 25V with only 5 tabs, but due to half-wave rectification, I do not think this design will be suitable. Drawing even 5A from the +25V rail causes current spikes reaching 90A and beyond. Of course series parasitic inductance and resistance would greatly reduce that, but I don't like the looks of it. I checked sources like Mouser, and Ebay but it appears that transformers with such a number of taps are uncommon to say the least. Where could I source such a transformer?

Question by -max-    |  last reply


Wireless charging? Answered

So i would like to make a simple wireless charger for an ipod (ok ok its not so simple once you factor in the ipod) but i want it to be able to show a charging sign.... also it would be nice if it waould work from one or two feet apart minimum. I heard guys at MIT made one for a 60 watt lamp that worked 2 meters away... so its possible... i can probably order any circuitry if it is reasonably priced and available at digikey or mouser. :) I have access to several ipods so it doesnt really matter what model i use. I also know that this would probably make a huge electromagnetic wave... possibly? idk... but if it is big enough to destroy nearby electronics i might not want to try... So i am all for distance- the farther the better.... Also base power is not an issue, i can use a wall wart if i need to...i can just see an ipod touch with 500 passes of wire around it 5 feet away from a 2 foot square power station..... all while erasing my hard drive :) Soo.... im coming back to reality for a min.... anybody know any sites....any formulas too!! Thx! :) :)

Question by astroboy907    |  last reply


Relay to control window air unit - first attempt failed (seeking advice)

I'm working on a thermostat project to control window AC units (which I will create an instructable for when it works). The need is to switch on and off an AC unit. The unit runs on 240 VAC (split phase) and the technical documentation says to put it on a circuit with a 20 AMP circuit breaker. I will be controlling the relay with 5 volts from an Arduino (although I suppose I can use an additional small relay to control the larger relay with a higher control voltage, if necessary... the less moving parts the better.) I already tried with a 20 AMP Solid State Relay (SSR) from Omron, but it failed. The problem is that, due to the voltage drop in an SSR, they get really hot. The hotter they get, the less current they are able to switch. The other problem is that SSRs fail with the circuit closed or partially closed. This is not ideal. You wouldn't want to come back to your place after a vacation and find your AC had been running constantly the whole time... I am thinking I need to use an electromechanical relay, but there are so many options on Mouser that I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed! Can someone please help point me in the right direction or suggest a good relay to use?

Topic by morph3ous    |  last reply


What is a good mechanical relay to use to power on an off a wall airconditioning unit? Answered

Cross-posted from here: https://www.instructables.com/community/Relay-to-control-window-air-unit-first-attempt-f/ I'm working on a thermostat project to control window AC units (which I will create an instructable for when it works). The need is to switch on and off an AC unit. The unit runs on 240 VAC (split phase) and the technical documentation says to put it on a circuit with a 20 AMP circuit breaker. I will be controlling the relay with 5 volts from an Arduino (although I suppose I can use an additional small relay to control the larger relay with a higher control voltage, if necessary... the less moving parts the better.) I already tried with a 20 AMP Solid State Relay (SSR) from Omron, but it failed. The problem is that, due to the voltage drop in an SSR, they get really hot. The hotter they get, the less current they are able to switch. The other problem is that SSRs fail with the circuit closed or partially closed. This is not ideal. You wouldn't want to come back to your place after a vacation and find your AC had been running constantly the whole time... I am thinking I need to use an electromechanical relay, but there are so many options on Mouser that I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed! Can someone please help point me in the right direction or suggest a good relay to use?

Question by morph3ous    |  last reply


Extremely basic laser tag setup?

I'm looking into building a cheap, easy to build, no frills (score, shot counter, reload, etc) laser tag setup. All I'm looking for are: - a modulated 40khz IR emitter, with a muzzle flash LED - shot sound (any easy way to do this with a piezo buzzer, or other really easy way?) - a receiver that sends the signal to a piezo buzzer connected to your ear I'm not gonna go for milestag, because it's too expensive to make my goal of 8 guns with, and I don't have the skills to make it (or time), but I will use its general emitter and receiver setup, just no fancy microcontroller. All I want is a "point and shoot you got me". I AM looking for a long range, though, equal to milestag guns, and for that I'm using its modulated emitter and receiver setup (to avoid sun interference... am I right?). So far I've seen this and this as for attempts at making something old school like this, but as electronic-circuitry inadept as I am, I can't put everything together easily without some help. I've included a photo of my schematic, created with the help of the above links and modified/simplified forms of the milestag sensor... please help with corrections. My primary questions are: - how do I add a sound output to the emitter? A beep is acceptable, but if there's an easy way to add a real shot sound, I'd go for that. - how do I limit the pulse to a short, like 0.25 second time period (I realize this was answered in one of the above links, but I need a circuit diagram or more noobproof explanation for it), then stop the beam? - how would I ground the LED (Vishay tsal 6100) and a non-ultrabright, red LED (the emitter output) in the emitter schematic (left)? Do I need resistors before the ground? - how would I add the piezo buzzer to the output in the receiver schematic? I'm using a Mouser part #  539-PT2130FPQ, in case there are resistors i should know to add. - do I ground the #1 terminals on the 3 terminal 40 khz receiver/demodulator? Originally, they would have been linked to the "data" wire on the milestag module. Please help a budding DIY electronics enthusiast out?

Question by MadBricoleur